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Is it a volt meter I need ?


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I have very little knowledge of things electrical as you will see, and I am sure it will be a simple answer.

 

I have built some brass tie bars and they recommend you place some double sided tape to insulate the two parts, I would like to be able to test the insulation before I put them in place.  I know if I just flashed the bare wires across the two parts I would probably get a spark ( or not ).

 

So is a volt meter the best way of being certain ?

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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A continuity tester will do the job and you could even lash up something with a bulb and a battery, but as multi meters have a continuity setting, they will pay dividends in the long run.  A few quid spent now will pay for itself time and time again.

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If you are trying to make sure they are insulated you need the resistance or Ohms range. It will probably be marked as 2K, 2M or similar. It may have the Omega sign against this part of the range. The display will probably be 1.     followed by blank space. You want it to NOT change when you put the probes on the test piece. Put the probes together and you will see a change, because this is a short circuit, ie 0 ohms

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Hi Martyn,

 

I'm not very good at electrics too. I have a multimeter and I know how to check for continuity and resistance with it, so as others advise, a cheap multimeter should be fine.

 

However, I also have a continuity tester (bought from Kent Panel Controls, sadly no more) which I find much easier for me. All it is is a plastic box containing a battery, bulb (led to be precise) and a buzzer, with two leads coming out of the box. Put the leads on the thing you want to test, if the bulb lights and the buzzer sounds, you have continuity, if not, there is no circuit. You could easily make one.

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A multimeter is a useful tool. You can use it for continuity testing - eg making sure that all your insulated wheels are on the same side of the loco, checking that pick-ups are actually picking up, finding short circuits. It will also find dry joints etc. If you are just using it for low voltage model rail applications then it does not need to be an expensive instrument.

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You need a cheap multimeter. Maplin do suitable ones starting from £10. Look for one with with a little icon on the range selector that looks like a wifi icon, that's an audible continuity checker. If it's insulated it won't sound, always check operation by touching the probes..

 

Like this:

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/mt-2017-large-analogue-multimeter-n60lk

 

Continuity setting is at 6 o'clock.

 

Also useful for lots of other things :-)

 

T

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You need a cheap multimeter. Maplin do suitable ones starting from £10. Look for one with with a little icon on the range selector that looks like a wifi icon, that's an audible continuity checker. If it's insulated it won't sound, always check operation by touching the probes..

 

Like this:

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/mt-2017-large-analogue-multimeter-n60lk

 

Continuity setting is at 6 o'clock.

 

Also useful for lots of other things :-)

 

T

Battery tester is useful too. My wife has a dreadful habit of taking batteries out of items, replacing them and putting dead ones back in the drawer. Drives me nuts & a cause of arguments. WHY would anyone be so dumb?

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  • 1 month later...

Just got a multimeter & continuity tester with buzzer combined from Wickes. £10 Nice bit of kit for the money. Does more than my last one. In case any ones interested. 

SCHNEIDER DIGITAL COMPACT MULTIMETER Product Code: 119804  
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>>>All it is is a plastic box containing a battery, bulb (led to be precise) and a buzzer, with two leads coming out of the box. Put the leads on the thing you want to test, if the bulb lights and the buzzer sounds, you have continuity, if not, there is no circuit.

 

I would suggest that is not strictly true, unless the 'box' contains a bit more electronics than you suggest. There could indeed be a circuit, but with sufficient resistance to prevent the buzzer sounding or the light being visible. It might not pass 12V DC to work (say) an electric motor, but it could be sufficient to short out more sophisticated electronic circuits (eg DCC).
 

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A good old analogue multimeter is the most useful tool as you can hear the needle clicking back and forth when using the ohms scale as a continuity tester.  I have both analogue and maplin digital multimeters and fnd the digital frustratingly difficult to get a stable reading on.

I used a door bell for continuity testing in a noisy car repair workshop environment and a coach with pickups on the bogies and a buzzer is very useful for testing when the fault is under the baseboard and you can't see a multimeter or test light from where you think the fault us 

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