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Some interesting O gauge stuff from Shapeways.


hartleymartin

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Some rather interesting stuff has become available on Shapeways recently. I've been looking around for things to put onto my O gauge layout (work-in-progress) and I've managed to get a few interesting items made available, mostly just be asking the designers to up-scale existing models.

 

This Fowler Plough Engine is a nice example. The wheels and even a plough are all available as additional parts. The designer informs me that a couple of parts might be a bit over-scale such as the steering wheel shaft because it is just a straight up-scale of his 4mm version.
https://www.shapeways.com/model/2935210/1005-0-fowler-plough-engine-body-1-43-5-o-scale.html

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I've also admitted the NSWGT C Class tram, which I had made something of a start to model, but had to abandon because I couldn't get around certain technical areas. Someone had done a rather nice HO scale version and I asked them if they could up-size it for 7mm. They did one better. They re-drew it with extra detailing to make it much finer for 7mm scale and even back-dated it to the original style with open ends (they were later enclosed) for me. All I had to do as ask nicely. I've had a few chats with the designer, and he's taken on a few suggestions of mine, such as making a separate roof to make it easier to fit lighting and the trolley pole (would you believe it's a standard spare part from the On30 Bachmann Streetcar?)

https://www.shapeways.com/model/2927299/sydney-c-class-tram-o-scale-1-43.html?li=search-results-1&materialId=61

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One that I'm particularly looking-forward to is the Cambrian Sharp-Stewart 2-4-0 which was also upscaled from 4mm to 7mm, again, just by asking nicely.

https://www.shapeways.com/model/2901034/seaham7mm-repaired-repaired.html?li=more-from-shop&materialId=6

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Very thoughtful of you to make this information (and prints) available to others, Martin.  I'd not thought about asking designers to adapt existing files for differing scales.

 

Searching for something specific in Shapeways is not easy and always seems to take forever!

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Very thoughtful of you to make this information (and prints) available to others, Martin.  I'd not thought about asking designers to adapt existing files for differing scales.

 

Searching for something specific in Shapeways is not easy and always seems to take forever!

 

It does take a lot of browsing, but it also helps if you look at what each individual designer has made. Chances are if they're doing one railway thing they'll be doing another.

 

I recently asked the fellow who did the N gauge and 3mm scale Ruston 48DS models if he would up-scale for 7mm, but he said that the dimensional inaccuracies of the 1:148 scale model (made to accommodate the motor bogie to drive it) would not be corrected. Shame really, as I think the only modifications were to reduce the width by a scale 6" to make it accurate and to make a finer grill for the front and it would have made a nice, reasonably inexpensive and easy-to-build little industrial shunter for O gauge.

 

Just before Christmas I'm doing a 3D-CAD drawing introductory course as part of employment skills training, and I'll be having a crack at doing up the 11t Hibberd Planet locomotive as a test piece. I'm not sure what would be the best drive mechanism for it. The cheapest would be to take some brass U-channel and use a drill press to make axle holes and slots for the motor shaft and mounting screws in the same manner as the Tower Models 14" Barclay, using a standard gear set. Another option would be to either etch or laser-cut two frames, use turned spacers from Eileen's Emporium or similar and then an etched gearbox. The probably best solution would be to get something like the NWSL "Magic Carpet Drive" or a custom chassis designed by Hollywood Foundry. I'll let you know how things turn out!

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I recently asked the fellow who did the N gauge and 3mm scale Ruston 48DS models if he would up-scale for 7mm, but he said that the dimensional inaccuracies of the 1:148 scale model (made to accommodate the motor bogie to drive it) would not be corrected. Shame really, as I think the only modifications were to reduce the width by a scale 6" to make it accurate and to make a finer grill for the front and it would have made a nice, reasonably inexpensive and easy-to-build little industrial shunter for O gauge.

 

THIS one, perchance? ;)

 

Tempted to give that a go... Not too fussed about a few mm here and there, it looks pretty much like a 48DS to me. The seller's name "Etched Pixels" rings a bell, I'm sure they are on RMWeb. Would obviously need quite a lot of detailing for 7mm, but there's nothing wrong with that- I think it's called modelling...  :scratchhead: 

 

All of the ones you've found look like they'd make for lovely models- the detail on the tram is quite something- there's a lot of work gone into the CAD preparation there. Be interesting to see how they turn out.

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Indeed, that one. The drawer told me that he originally drew it for 2mm scale and made it available for 3mm scale, so it probably won't scale up to 7mm too well.

 

This one is in frosted detail, but I think that it could be done in the Flexible strong white plastic and then rubbed down by hand to smooth out the finish. It would certainly make it much cheaper!

 

In reality, I think for a small locomotive like this, one would be best to have the body made up as a series of pewter castings to glue together. A Tiny loco like this needs all the weight it can get!

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Does anyone have details about the wheelbase, wheel diameter, etc for the Sharp-Stewart 2-4-0? I'd like to get an order off to Slaters for wheels and other bits and bobs to build this attractive little tank engine.

Martin,

 

I delved into my boxed books to find one on theTanat Valley Light Railway where the 'Seaham' class 2-4-0 tanks ran

 

Leading wheel dia: 3'. 9 spoke

Driving wheel dia: 4'6". 14 spoke

Cyls 14x20"

 

The wheelbase is not given, the coupled wheelbase looks about 6' but you need a drawing for this

 

There is 1 photo I can scan next week if you don't have it, I hope this helps

 

Dava

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Dava - yes please re: photo.

I would like to find a diagram from which I can get some basic dimensions. Surely something of the sort has been published.

I haven't found anything published yet but see the Cambrian Progress 2mm finescale thread where Richard Jones had a chassis etched so he must have one

 

Agenoria & GEM did kits of the 1924 rebuild in which the frame dimensions, w\base were unchanged

There will be a GW weight diagram somewhere but not in this part of Canada!

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Now found Cambrian Railways Album by CC Green, it has 3 photos of the locos + other views of this fascinating system

 

From a photo the wheelbase looks like 6'+6'3"

 

Dava

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Steve

 

Have had a quick chat before about these chairs, never bought from Shapeways. They do differing quality of the items, what quality should be ordered please etc

 

Hi John,

 

I'm afraid you will not get a reply from Steve at the moment as he is in New York doing the Christmas shopping, as for the slab chairs I decided to go for the finer detailed one's as there is hardly any difference in cost.

 

Martyn.

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Hi

A while ago I asked the chap who does the 4mm scale GWR pollen's if he would upscale to 7mm. If any of you guys could ask more nicely than I did, it would save redrawing them in 7mm.

CWRailways have some GWR engine shed water hydrants that I designed.

Amazing potential 3d printing has for us.

Stuart

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I have been designing quite a few models , initially for my 1/35th scale WW1 project. It was not long before someone asked for different scales. Initially I did not know how well it would work, and it probably depends on the CAD package you use.

To up-scale a model it is relatively easy just to put in multiplier , but everything goes up including thickness of plastic. Doubling the scale results in volume going up by a factor of 8. In the package I use, Alibra, I can go through each line of the design(I used to work in IT so it comes naturally), and adjust thicknesses so when they are upped at the end, they are not too thick.

Reducing scale needs more care, you can't just reduce everything, unless your software has something to force a set minimum. I just go through my design and resize everything so when it is reduced it is not below minimum. I tend to work on a minimum of point 9 mm, or 1mm. Care has to be taken with potential weak points.

Initially I was asked to resize in 1/43 scale, and this brought in extra changes to cope with either 14mm or 16.5mm gauges. Luckily one of those wanting the models for 14mm gauge measured required distance between axle boxes and it was just possible. OO9 was the next logical step, but i concentrated on the locos not the wagons as there were already othe models available. The overwide gauge would have required a bit of work as well. It did not stop there as I then reduced models to N scale then Z scale, and some of the Z scale models have been exhibited in france, using T gauge track.

 

I have upped one model to SM32 (1/19th scale) and considering its size it wasn't too expensive. I also managed to add extra rivet detail on curved ends of the Simplex loco, something I had not mastered on the original design. I plan to up other locos, but only when I can afford to get them printed off.

Must not forget 1/55 scale, which is nicely halfway between 4mm/ft and 7mm/ft hich I can also managed to resize to, as I have a new project in that scale.

 

3D printing is a good way to get models  which noone else produces, but you have to think hard if it justifies the cost. Asking a designer for different scales is worth while. it might be difficult with their software, so might prompt them to try another package. Spreading  designs over several differrent scales can result in a lot more interest in your models. Looking at the prices for the models above suggests to me that some could be tweaked to make them cheaper. As I said once you know how to tweak thicknesses, you can use one design to produce many different models.

Some designers use a modular approach to design. I have not worked out how to do that properly, but I am happy to go through each design line by line. I know what I am looking for, and it gives me more flexibility in design, such as adding extra detail on bigger models.

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