Kirkby Luneside

[Physicsman]

The window "frames"/mullions have all been rubbed down and the apertures in the ply are now all a comfortable fit.

 

I've added filler (Squadron Green putty) to the lower sills. Any small amount for the top sills will have to wait until 60thou microstrip "window frames" have been fitted. The filler took about an hour to set and has been filed down to the appropriate angle - not clear in the pics.

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow's job is to paint the frames with plastic primer, then fit the microstrip. Well, that's the plan...

 

Jeff

Edited March 5, 2018 by Physicsman

[Physicsman]

This will give a better idea of the area of brickwork around the windows. I've fitted a set of quoins, and my previous sketch - on the model itself - was inaccurately drawn.

 

 

Jeff  

[gismorail]

It's some building you are taking on Jeff you have my full admiration for your efforts. Have you seen Larry's Carrog Road thread he has done some fantastic work on the buildings which might give you some further food for thought. With regard to the barge boards it might pay you to see if the York Model Railway co (laser cutting) could produce something for you. 

[Physicsman]

Hi Martin.

 

The station building has a lot of detail and I'll do my best to capture as much as I can. Agree with you about the bargeboards. I remember Derek (Mr Kirtley) cut his own. I'll give it a go - eventually - but I think it may be something that's too difficult to do a decent job with.

 

As for the rest.... Many years ago, Al (Schubert) advised me to break an object into simple, small sections before you try to build it. Good advice, but leads to multiple layers when it comes to tasks and the order you do them. Still, it is ONLY a model, so an enjoyable challenge!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

I've given all the frames 2 coats of grey plastic primer:

 

 

Followed by a couple of coats of a "sandstone"-like acrylic mix I concocted:

 

 

The Wills Dressed Stone brick sheeting is shown for comparison.

 

I think the sandstone colour is too dark, so I'll mix-up a lighter shade tomorrow and go over the whole lot again. Not an arduous task, maybe an hour or so, applying the paint with a small brush (as for the primer).

 

I've also "slapped" the excess sandstone mix around the outsides of the window apertures. Bit of a waste of time, as nearly 100% of the ply area should end up with a brick covering.

 

 

Jeff

 

 

[Physicsman]

 

[Physicsman]

Judging by the (lack of viewing) activity on the thread, everyone's getting bored with images of station buildings....so here's a few more.

 

Frame/mullion colour lightened (may not look it, the room I took these photos was relatively gloomy), quoins cleaned-up and painted and I've started adding-in window frames. Not much for 4 hours, is it?

 

 

 

 

Jeff

 

 

[Andrew P]

Judging by the (lack of viewing) activity on the thread, everyone's getting bored with images of station buildings....so here's a few more.

 

Frame/mullion colour lightened (may not look it, the room I took these photos was relatively gloomy), quoins cleaned-up and painted and I've started adding-in window frames. Not much for 4 hours, is it?

 

IMG_6794.JPG

 

IMG_6795.JPG

 

IMG_6797.JPG

 

Jeff

Very nice Jeff, amazing work.

[lambiedg]

Judging by the (lack of viewing) activity on the thread, everyone's getting bored with images of station buildings....so here's a few more.

 

Frame/mullion colour lightened (may not look it, the room I took these photos was relatively gloomy), quoins cleaned-up and painted and I've started adding-in window frames. Not much for 4 hours, is it?

 

IMG_6794.JPG

 

IMG_6795.JPG

 

IMG_6797.JPG

 

Jeff

Time evaporates when making window frames!

[BWsTrains]

Judging by the (lack of viewing) activity on the thread, everyone's getting bored with images of station buildings....so here's a few more.

 

Lovely work Jeff, perhaps low interest given the comprehensive job recently posted by Coach on his 'O' Carrog

 

Hope you're thawing out here, we're into autumn, still around 30C and no rain for 5 weeks now, dry as...

 

Colin

[Physicsman]

Very nice Jeff, amazing work.

 

Takes time, but enjoyable in a masochistic way!

 

 

Time evaporates when making window frames!

 

VERY true. A good time filler. "Time flies when you're having fun!"....

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Lovely work Jeff, perhaps low interest given the comprehensive job recently posted by Coach on his 'O' Carrog

 

Hope you're thawing out here, we're into autumn, still around 30C and no rain for 5 weeks now, dry as...

 

Colin

 

Blimey Colin, it was 35C when we last corresponded - nearly 3 months ago. I was pleased to get the Bunker up to 14C this afternoon!

 

There is a possibility I'll be building an 0 gauge shunting plank at the end of next year. I'd quite enjoy building something in 7mm scale. And Larry's quite a modeller - he was my Modeller of the Year.

 

Jeff

[PeterBB]

Blimey Colin, it was 35C when we last corresponded - nearly 3 months ago. I was pleased to get the Bunker up to 14C this afternoon!

 

There is a possibility I'll be building an 0 gauge shunting plank at the end of next year. I'd quite enjoy building something in 7mm scale. And Larry's quite a modeller - he was my Modeller of the Year.

 

Jeff

 

So Andy's got at you at last ... Penybont Sidings ... built for 'play' rather than scenic but works.  It does give him a break or, as they say 'change is as good as a rest'.  Having said that your other interest probably does that for you.

[BWsTrains]

Blimey Colin, it was 35C when we last corresponded - nearly 3 months ago. I was pleased to get the Bunker up to 14C this afternoon!

 

Jeff

Yes, but a very balmy 30C, think dry Southern Spain up in the hills, most pleasant and doesn't feel at all hot. Also the sun has lost its burning sting if not its UV bite as we near the Equinox.

Dry as a bone so all the mozzies and files have died out as well. This can go on for another 2 months here with max temps 20-25C if we're lucky, before the winter break.

 

My layout is in the downstairs area of the house at the back on a tiled concrete slab so stays pretty stable most of the year at 18-20C, perfect spot but just not big enough!

 

Colin

[Physicsman]

A busy day away from the Bunker, so not a single thing done.

 

Hoping to get more window work done tomorrow. Pics if there's anything worth showing!

 

Jeff

[islandbridgejct]

Judging by the (lack of viewing) activity on the thread...

 

Jeff

I haven’t gone away, just working. Carry on posting.

 

Please

[Physicsman]

As a break from fitting-out windows, I thought I'd cut some of the Wills Dressed stone to fit the quoins and window mullions. Bit of a fiddle - as usual - but after an hour, here's the result.

 

 

 

A separate sections for each set of quoins and a small insert underneath. I'll probably do the other "bay" section while the light is good.

 

Jeff

[Rowsley17D]

 

A bit o' filler around those and it should turn out just fine, Jeff. I like the old red sandstone mullion colour. Shouldn't the quoins go all the way down to the plinth though?

[Physicsman]

A bit o' filler around those and it should turn out just fine, Jeff. I like the old red sandstone mullion colour. Shouldn't the quoins go all the way down to the plinth though?

 

The bottom section of the wall juts out from the rest. There's a quoin block at each end of the jut, per bay, with brickwork in-between. This sits on top of the white bit of plastikard you can already see. The top of the jut then has angled sandstone blocks joining the jut layer to the quoins. It will be clear when I've added this in.

 

The dressed stone sheet has to be rubbed down a little to reduce its thickness, then fixed and filled.....

 

At the moment, ONLY the quoins are fixed in place. The windows are still removable to allow further work, as is the dressed stone.

 

Jeff

 

EDIT: See pic in next post.

Edited March 9, 2018 by Physicsman

[Physicsman]

Here's the second bay with it's dressed stone cut to fit the quoins.

 

 

As I said in the previous post, only the quoins are currently fixed in place. So what you see is a VERY rough version of things.

 

 

Jeff

Edited March 9, 2018 by Physicsman

[Physicsman]

Since the jut, or plinth - as Jonathan called it - has been mentioned, here's what I mean about a bottom quoin and brick layer.

 

 

 

I'm about to use some green putty filler to create the angled stone link between jut and vertical wall. Pics when it's hardened, and been smoothed and scribed (so tomorrow).

 

Jeff

[jukebox]

Hi Jeff;

 

Your resident OCD Perfectionist checking in.  Looking really good!

 

It won't *really* matter, because by the time you fill, and paint, and plonk the building, no one is going to notice, but...

 

 

The blocks I marked in red might be a bit anachronistic - in real life, the rows of blocks would finish flush, not be carved to fit the quoins.  You could avoid this by cutting the stone sheets into pairs of rows that match the height of the quoins.

 

 

I got used to doing the infills on the big bridge that way, and it does make life easier (you don't then need to cut "L" shaped pieces from the blocks - just have a selection of rows of blockwork, and pick and choose what fits best).

 

Also, keep an eye on the horizontals.  The row in yellow seems to rise to the left.  It may well be that the photo exaggerates this (I know that a lot of stuff the naked eye misses, the camera exposes!)

 

As always, just constructive observation.  I know you like to be pushed to do your best!

 

Regards

 

Scott

Edited March 10, 2018 by jukebox

[Physicsman]

Scott, that is a very good suggestion. I'm always trying to think of ways to simplify a task and your method is a bit of a quantum leap forward. It's a real pain cutting "crenellated" bits of plastic to match the quoins. Double course lengths is much easier. Excellent.

 

I can't change the section you've highlighted as I've stuck the sheet down and added some angled filler since that photo was taken. However, there are a LOT more quoins to match in...

 

My only immediate concern would be the need to ensure there's always a mortar layer between adjoining pairs of courses. However, your method is likely to be much quicker and simpler - and more accurate - so I'll give it a go in the morning.

 

BTW, I don't call this OCD. I call it good technique.

 

Jeff

[jukebox]

Hi Jeff

 

Yes: just pre cut pairs - or triple rows - of brickwork, and then you have a stock of rows and can choose the ones that are close to the height of the quoins you are trying to fill - innies or outies.

 

That should also eliminate the broken row across the bottom.

 

About the mortar: I found that butting them neatly worked fine - if the gap between rows gets too large because you can't find a pair the exact right height, some filler can represent mortar.  But always think of scale - at 1/76, a 10mm mortar layer is pretty insignificant...

 

I don't have a clear photo but you can see in this crop that I used rows, rather than cutting blocks in rows:

 

 

Cheers

 

Scott

Edited March 10, 2018 by jukebox

[Physicsman]

The broken row at the bottom is almost hidden from view by the angled "sandstone" (aka green putty), so I wasn't too worried.

 

But points taken. Your method makes things considerably easier and is MUCH quicker.

 

Right, I'm off to bed now. I'll post a pic showing your technique later today. :-)

 

Jeff