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Poldeen - N Gauge in a box!


David41283
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Evening Everyone,

 

I've been thinking of ideas for my 2015 layout after pretty much finishing Exchange Square. I keep getting tempted with a large layout and full-length trains, but had pretty much decided to stick to my M.O. of a single board which can be put away in a cupboard.

 

Today my next project sort of emerged fully formed, however there is a sad story involved.

 

I have purchased the started layout of a deceased gentleman, who had begun a project, accumulated most of the parts, but sadly passed away before making much progress.

 

His widow had sold his collection to Chris' Crafts and Model Railways in Plymouth, from where I have purchased the start of the layout as a job lot.

 

For £100 I received:

 

A nicely made 46" x 11" baseboard, with a lid for storage.

All the hinges, catches, screws etc to complete the baseboards.

A complete control panel, with all the switches, wires and screws etc to wire it up.

A Gaugemaster Combi

All the code 55 track for the design (which was nicely illustrated with measurements in a sheaf of photos and bits of research)

Plenty of buffer stops

Rail joiners

Peco Electromagnetic Couplers

Ratio Signals

A bag of ballast

2 rolls of cork

Wires and Tubes for point control

Various pots of Railmatch paints

 

post-16405-0-39825700-1420236970_thumb.jpg

post-16405-0-29310500-1420236965_thumb.jpg

 

I have promised to document my work on the layout and the final result to show the chap's widow.

 

My first thoughts at this stage, having evaluated what I've got, are to pretty much stick with the original design, as it's pretty good, and it feels like the appropriate thing to do. I also feel this gives me a nice challenge with some fixed parameters to work within. I think I am going to move the control panel, which takes up far too much room in the scenic section to the spare area of fiddle yard. I am going to re-align  the track plan to go diagonally across the board to maximise space.

 

I wonder if anyone on RMweb in the Plymouth area may recognise this story or know of the chap who did such a nice job of making the baseboards and planning the layout. I am sticking with the name he'd come up with - Poldeen.

 

I hope I can do his excellent work so far justice with my effort in the next few months.

 

Cheers

 

David

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by David41283
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Hi David

 

Yes I am in aggrement it would be nice to try and keep as near as possible to the original track plan as possible.

 

It's always a challenge in taking over a layout built by another modeller, even completed ones

 

Yes I think I would also move the control panel from the scenic area, another option other than it being in the fiddle yard would maybe to have a control box with point switching and hand control on a fly lead which gives you the option if exhibited to control the layout from the front.

 

Just a thought........

 

Terry

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Morning Everyone,

 

I have spent the evening tweaking the track plan in Anyrail5. Here is my version of the original plan.

 

I am going to extend one of the kick-back sidings into a branch disappearing under the scenic break. Could be leading to a factory complex, the docks, a cement works etc depending on your mood at the time!

 

post-16405-0-27762400-1420277426_thumb.jpg

 

Having gone through everything I've got I discovered that the "wires" supposedly purchased for the wire in tube points are actually 0.8m Carbon Fibre rods which snap if bent. Unless anyone can suggest otherwise I have to assume this is a simple mistake on the part of the original purchaser. Luckily I have plenty of 1mm piano wire in my cupboard.

 

Thanks for the comments so far.

 

David

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The original track plan looks like Ashburton?

 

Yes, I believe that was the plan - an extremely condensed Ashburton. The numbers on the original sketch refer to the length of each section in inches. I have tried to extend it a bit, as a 3" loco-release excludes pretty much everything except 14xx and pannier tanks! The plan also doesn't quite work in it's original guise as the Code 55 track that he purchased doesn't quite allow the geometry as per the plan.

 

I am a modern-image modeller, but I intend to stick fairly close to the original idea and try and make the layout 'timeless', so that in future it could be operated with Steam, early diesels or 1980's blue and grey. There are plenty of modern branch-lines in Cornwall that are painted in the traditional GWR colour scheme and have semaphore signals today!

Edited by David41283
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Surely as a modern image modeller, all the sidings would be gone and a single track left to run a DMU!  But that would be sad!

 

Brian.

 

Ha ha - yes, absolutely! 

 

This is my reason for extending the siding into a branch, gives a little justification for the infrastructure not having been severely rationalised!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone,

 

In the last fortnight, since this package has come into my possession, I have been working on the baseboard/box.

 

I have filled in the huge hole in the scenic area, intended for the control panel, and moved this (slightly reconfigured) into the fiddle yard area. Everything has been well sanded, undercoated and painted with good quality emulsion. I would have gone for Brunswick Green, but not wanting painting the outside of the box to become a significant or expensive part of the project, I went with this rather nice dark blue which was at hand.

 

post-16405-0-06574000-1421271354_thumb.jpg

 

I rather like the design of this, I reckon this is pretty much the intent of the chap who started the layout given the kit of bits he'd assembled. Clearly this is going to limit the height of any buildings as I've only got around 2.5" headroom - but most N gauge structures will just about fit. However I do appreciate the fact that this really will be a layout you can carry under one arm!

 

post-16405-0-82640200-1421271355_thumb.jpg

 

You can just about see on the picture above, the shallow well cut for a 12" traverser. The three holes in the fiddle yard are for (L-R) the controller, a small track plan with the switches for the isolating sections and finally the slide DPDT switches for the WIT points. There is a slot cut at the bottom of the scenic break for the WIT to go through.

 

The more I get into this I am getting tempted by ex-GWR panniers and prairies and the Kernow China Clay wagons to run on this cornish BLT!

 

One final question - I have painted the surfaces with a couple of coats of good quality emulsion, as I understand most people paint the fascias of their layouts. Can anyone recommend a good varnish to protect emulsion painted wood?

 

Cheers

 

David

 

 

 

 

 

 

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37s look good on the old clay hoods too ;)

 

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=980&bih=574&q=class+37+china+clay&oq=class+37+china+clay&gs_l=img.12..0.2594.9966.0.11054.19.11.0.8.8.0.121.888.9j2.11.0.msedr...0...1c.1.61.img..0.19.937.3IXKzMtSfig#hl=en&tbm=isch&q=class+37+china+clay+hoods

 

Nice work, a whole layout fitting in a case like that is quite inspired from the sadly deceased. Could the lid be used as a back scene if it opened to vertical rather than hinging all the way over?

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This reminds me of an electric guitar case - mmm: think bass guitar for extra length! You can pick up the basic cases I am thinking of for about £20 second hand! Reminds me of that 2mmFS series of layouts that were built into instrument cases (see 2mm section) whose name escapes me! There's a challenge, and I wonder why this as a source of baseboard hasn't been thought of before - or has it??

 

Ps apologies for slight thread diversion!

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Evening all,

 

Thanks for the comments.

 

Re: the lid / backscene - I thought long and hard about abandoning the original box (which was mostly built when I got it) and turning it into a more traditional looking layout, but I decided that if I wanted to do that, I should have just purchased wood and built my own design, which would have been bigger! The box design was part of the appeal of buying this "job lot" and it feels like a bit more of a challenge to complete something which has some set parameters, laid down by someone else.

 

It is amazing how quickly you can make progress with 30 mins one night and 45 the next etc..

 

I have now stuck down 1/8th cork onto the scenic area, then after final tweaks, I printed out the track plan full-size, from Anyrail, and glued this down too.

 

I have got most of the tubes in place for the point control.

 

post-16405-0-87674700-1421624587_thumb.jpg

 

post-16405-0-84769400-1421624588_thumb.jpg

 

I originally left the cork out form under the docks branch as I thought it would look good if it went down a slight incline, and was visibly a few mm lower than that main line, however now the red tubes have had to go under it, I may have to raise it up a bit.

 

I treated myself to a "Rotary Tool" (Dremel) after Christmas, I got Maplin's version for £25 which came with loads of accessories. I cannot believe how I ever managed to cut track or copper clad, or wire etc before buying this! It was also really useful for "routing" the channels for the point control tubes through the cork.

 

I have also made probably the worlds crudest traverser, it simply moves about in a small well just a bit larger that the sector plate itself. Since taking this photo I have now soldered the tracks and some brass tube to the veroboard.

 

post-16405-0-97507500-1421624590_thumb.jpg 

 

I really can't decide on how I want to proceed scenically. I am certain this is somewhere in rural Devon/Cornwall, close enough to the sea to have a vague "docks" branch . But I am lurching from watching Prairie tanks on eBay (just missed one for £35 tonight!) and buying modern branchline stations from Scalescenes.

 

Thanks for your interest,

 

David

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One more thing (forgot about this picture on my phone!)

 

I sat down to solder a wire onto the frogs of the points this evening, and while I was doing this, realised that as I wasn't using Peco motors, I could get rid of a bit of the extra plastic around the point. I also took the opportunity of getting rid of the little pip which stands up on the end of the tie-bar, which is a real niggle with N gauge points.

 

Not rocket science, and I expect many do this as standard anyway, but here is the before and after of about 10 mins with a razor saw and craft knife.

 

post-16405-0-21146000-1421626013_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

 

David

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Hi,

 

I really enjoyed following Exchange Square and this looks equally impressive. Also a great thing to do given the sad circumstances of its early life.

 

I will enjoy watching your progress - one question - what is the red tubing you use to house your piano wire? - It looks a really neat solution, and seems able to operate through quite an impressive 90 degree bend.

 

All the best,

James

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Hi,

 

I really enjoyed following Exchange Square and this looks equally impressive. Also a great thing to do given the sad circumstances of its early life.

 

I will enjoy watching your progress - one question - what is the red tubing you use to house your piano wire? - It looks a really neat solution, and seems able to operate through quite an impressive 90 degree bend.

 

All the best,

James

 

Thanks James,

 

The red tube is simply approx 2mm diameter thin plastic tube. I have no idea where it's from as it came in the bundle of stuff I bought as a job lot. Nearly everything else had Expressway Models (South Devon Railway @ Buckfastleigh) price labels on, so it too may have come from there.

 

To get the bends I put 0.8mm steel piano wire in the tube first, then bent it round the corners. Gouging a channel in the cork keeps it in place. Seems to work well with not too much resistance.

 

Cheers

 

David

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Evening all,

 

I fancied a break from wrestling with track laying - it never quite lines up exactly how it should does it!

 

I have downloaded a number of scalescenes kits, which I had professionally printed last week (tagged onto the end of a print job for work). So after around 5 evening work Poldeen has it's first buildings.

 

Making these kits is far more socially acceptable then track laying - these can be done on a cutting mat, on the coffee table while watching the telly - no power tools, soldering or smelly fumes!

 

post-16405-0-68987500-1422398970_thumb.jpg

post-16405-0-68425700-1422398971_thumb.jpg

post-16405-0-72725800-1422398972_thumb.jpg

post-16405-0-83613100-1422398973_thumb.jpg

 

I am pretty satisfied with these so far, and they *should* fit onto the layout. I have cast fences, bins, chimney pots etc to add to finish them off.

 

I am really impressed with the scalescenes kits - this is my first proper go at building one. They are incredibly clever designs. I probably won't bother with the pictures on the internal walls or rugs on the floor next time though!

 

Cheers

 

David

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Evening all,

 

Most of the track is now down on the layout, with wire in tube points are connected up mechanically, but not yet electrically, and I've got about 50% of the "dropper" wires soldered.

 

I'm afraid I've ditched the traverser/cassettes/sector plate as I just couldn't get anything to work satisfactorily in such a small space. The brass alignment bolts I'd planned were just too fiddly and as the layout is going to be pretty much "one engine in steam" operation the advantages didn't seem worth the buggerance factor.

 

Therefore anything clever has been replaced by a single length of code 55, glued down and connected with good old fashioned fishplates.

 

I've also carved out a square for the cottages to sit in.

 

post-16405-0-87848500-1422836213_thumb.jpg

 

This evening I've finished the cottages - the chimneys were too high to fit under the lid of the layout box, so have been lowered! Sunday also gave me the opportunity of getting into the garden to do some spray painting with Halford's primer, so I've finished off the gardens, with bins and fences and a couple of lampposts. These are all white metal castings.

 

post-16405-0-71544900-1422836211_thumb.jpg

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post-16405-0-31302700-1422836213_thumb.jpg

 

There is no rear fence, as this will be the boundary of the railway and will be added once they're fixed in position at a much later date.

 

Cheers

 

David

Edited by David41283
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  • 2 weeks later...

**Branch Line Reinstatement Progress Update**

 

Engineers are pleased to report that the project to reinstate the branch line to Poldeen and Poldeen Harbour is progressing on schedule.

 

After the completion of track laying works last week, work has now progressed to installing the requisite electronic systems to allow trains to run safely.

 

A Network Rail spokesman said "track laying was more difficult than we had imagined, working in such a small space made it extremely tricky to get the rails aligned and points working. Now we have moved onto the wiring, this too is proving more extensive than we had planned, but is progressing well."

 

It is hoped that the first train may venture down the long-forgotten Cornish branch line in the next 7 days or so.

 

Passenger services and freight workings to the harbour branch are planned for later in 2015. 

 

 

In reality I have spent most of the last week or so wiring. The controller and mini control panel are in situ (in need of a hoover in the pic).

 

post-16405-0-33752900-1423783733_thumb.jpg

 

Nearly all of the wiring is complete. Red and Black are track feeds, blue and orange are the feeds to the isolating sections and purple and green switch the polarity of the points. The last two jobs for tomorrow are to connect the switches to the waiting choc blocks and run some wires to the controller, we should then be able to have a test run.

 

post-16405-0-40847500-1423783734_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

 

David

 

 

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Evening all,

 

I have had a really busy week, so these pics were actually taken last weekend. With everyone else here captivated by Eastenders it seems a good opportunity to catch up on some RMWeb!

 

After finishing the wiring, I am please to say.........It works!

 

After many traverses up and down using a Farish 08 the only two issues were:

 

a. I needed to trim a couple of the point operating wires, where they protruded slightly above rail height, which fouled the chassis of the loco. This was easily achieved with a cutting disc in the rotary tool.

b. because of the tiny movement involved in the "throw" of the points in n gauge sometimes the slide-switch wouldn't travel fully home and therefore wouldn't change the polarity of the points. This was easily rectified by removing a few of the cable clips to allow a little more play in the wire to give a bit more slack, allowing the switch to complete it's range of movement.

 

Here is the first train coming up the hill from the docks...

post-16405-0-21567600-1424463668_thumb.jpg

post-16405-0-37488900-1424463669_thumb.jpg

 

Here is the main plan for freight workings:

 

1. a "trip" working arrives on the main line.

post-16405-0-16345000-1424463670_thumb.jpg

 

2. It pulls into the main platform road. I will fix a Dapol magnet at the crucial points for uncoupling.

post-16405-0-04056800-1424463671_thumb.jpg

 

3. The loco pulls forward to run-round

post-16405-0-17769100-1424463672_thumb.jpg

 

4. After running round the loco sets back into the loop siding and waits for the road to the docks branch.

post-16405-0-24424500-1424463673_thumb.jpg

 

5. When given the all clear the train slowly heads down the hill to the docks.

post-16405-0-86320700-1424463674_thumb.jpg

 

Here is the train in the "bijou" fiddle yard.

post-16405-0-73551100-1424463675_thumb.jpg

 

Hopefully I will have a quieter week next week!

 

Cheers

 

David

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This looks like a great build.  I am following with interest.

 

May I ask what general era you are planning on setting the layout in?  I see Privatization stock, but in the end, would era hopping be an option?

 

Cheers,

 

William

Hi William,

 

I said earlier on I was going to make it non-era-specific, but having nearly bankrupted myself changing eras before I am sticking with my privatisation era stock.

 

I have also got the new scalescenes modern station kit which looks fantastic, and reminds me very much of Trowbridge near where I grew up.

 

However I still think it would really work with china clay hoods and steam engines, but I won't be buying them anytime soon!

 

Cheers for the comment.

 

David

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All that fun in such a small box!

 

Really like this layout - still really impressed with the point operation - good job you played tested the layout fully before you hid the point wires and tubes. It sounds obvious but I'm sure a lot of us have pressed on beyond the point (no pun intended) of in-expensive return!

 

All the best,

James

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All that fun in such a small box!

 

Really like this layout - still really impressed with the point operation - good job you played tested the layout fully before you hid the point wires and tubes. It sounds obvious but I'm sure a lot of us have pressed on beyond the point (no pun intended) of in-expensive return!

 

All the best,

James

 

Hi James,

 

Thanks for the comment, I have learnt through mistakes! Every time I have laid track I swear I am going to thoroughly test it, but there is always something I miss that I need to correct later, often requiring major surgery once work has progressed.

 

I am going to have a few more goes at running lots of different stock before I move onto ballasting or building up the scenery over the point wires!

 

Cheers

 

David

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Hi everyone,

 

A bit of progress this week.

 

Now I am happy that the wire-in-tube all work, and the wires are nicely trimmed, I have covered the tubes around the tracks with some very crude papier-mache. (basically just scrap paper plastered down with diluted PVA) This has covered most of the holes down which ballast would disappear and gives me a nice base ready to spray the whole lot of the track with Sleeper Grime or such like.

 

I have added the Dapol Magnets. I used a cutting disc to cut them in half. This was easier than I anticipated, after only a little pressure from the rotary tool, the magnets seemed to fracture along the line I was attempting to cut. Removing 3/4 sleepers instead of 7/8 is far more agreeable, and this has the double advantages of halving the cost of the magnets and making them much less noticeable. They seem to work just as well, you just have to be a little more careful where you stop!

 

I also learnt a lesson today! With the track firmly glued down with Copydex I couldn't slide the peco spare sleepers beneath the rails to fill the gaps between points and bits of flex-track. I managed to find a couple of lengths of 1mm x 1.5mm styrene, so used this to make sleepers where they were needed. Although they are currently really noticeable as white styrene, once all the track is sprayed brown, then ballasted, then weathered I am happy that they will look the part, and without careful study you won't be able to tell them from the normal sleepers.

 

Finally, I have quickly added dummy point motors and a little bit of cable trunking in places.

 

This evening I have carried on playing testing the layout.

 

post-16405-0-40894200-1424651443_thumb.jpg

 

post-16405-0-09859000-1424651444_thumb.jpg

 

post-16405-0-81760600-1424651444_thumb.jpg

 

post-16405-0-50073800-1424651445_thumb.jpg

 

post-16405-0-19318100-1424651446_thumb.jpg

 

One evening this week, I need to get the airbrush set up and give all the track a coat of "sleeper grime" then it will be time for ballasting.

 

Cheers

 

David

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi David,

 

I've encountered the same problem with filling in sleepers in OO and N. I tend to cut the chairs off and carefully create a u shape recess where the rail sits. But I have pinned my track before, not glued it, and this probably allows the track to flex up as I push the sleepers under.

 

Regards,

James

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