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DJH 7mm Deltic/class 55


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I'd like to construct a model of D9020 "Nimbus" as she was just after receiving the small yellow panel, circa 1961/2. I saw her in the Plant paintshop, being given just that, as a small boy.

 

My base would be the DJH kit, K316. ( I decided against the Heljan offering as I missed the bodyside tumblehome.)

 

Is there anything I need to watch for/modify to achieve the correct look? Any parts worth replacing from Shawplan/Pete harvey?

I am already aware of the roof-mounted horns, thanks.

 

And does anyone do laser cut glazing? DJH supply some pre-formed glazing of the type that is vacuum-formed, but it isn't particularly clear:(

Edited by JeffP
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Hello Jeff,

 

one thing about the DJH Deltic is the weight, you will want two motors and gearbox's (one for the loco and one for the train). IIRC you can sometimes have a "job" with getting a good joint between the two body ends, also on some of the castings most of the windows need a lot of work to remove the flash from them. 

 

If the glazing is a good fit you could use it as a template to cut some out of some good clear plastic (old CD cases can be good for this).

 

OzzyO. 

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I'm LOOKING at an ABC motor bogie, Brian, (Clapperton) reckons one will be enough with a big Maxon motor, but I will build the dummy bogie in such a way as I can replace it with another ABC unit at a later date. The cost of two at once was a bit high for me.

 

I haven't had the castings out yet, as I'm awaiting a response from ABC, I have no idea what sort of waiting time I'm looking at. I do know he doesn't list the class 55 bogie, but is slightly altering the class 37 one to give a scale 100mph....not that it will ever get to that, except maybe on a rolling road.

 

I've see and bookmarked somewhere that the stuff that DJP uses for glazing is also used for lifting fingerprints and is available at a reasonable price, so my invest. Otherwise, microscope slides and lots of work for the windscreens at least........

 

Thanks for the input.

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Phew!

Herewith attached some pics of the bodywork before any fettling, they are exactly as they came out of the packaging.

 

post-13196-0-35656100-1421852738.jpg

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post-13196-0-30183100-1421852822.jpg

 

 

Why "Phew!" you may ask?

 

Well after removing the ends from their packaging, finding somewhere suitable to photograph them, (there never seems to be anywhere that doesn't show background clutter), taking the photos etc, I found that, despite my best efforts, each image was around 14.1MP. I'm SURE I set the camera for smaller than that.

 

So I resized on PSE, doing each one separately.

I did it as a %, first trial producing images of 1.7MB, so tried again at 25% image size on each edge, and PSE says they are now 900KB...perfect, think I......

 

But when I attach them, they are between 50 and 90KB..what did I do wrong?

 

And does anyone know if it's possible to resize more than one photo at a time?

 

Thanks.

 

 

My thoughts on the ends so far?

Not bad, seen worse, what's there won't be THAT difficult to remove...and the bodyside tumblehome is there, unlike the HJ offering.

Edited by JeffP
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Hello JeffP,

 

I'd get the basted file and the chalk out as these look like that there is a lot of flash to remove. Then you will have the fun part of aligning the two half's of the body without anything to help you, I would have expected some sort of clips to help with this. I don't think that I'd use 70 deg. solder for this, try something like 145deg. To help file an angle on the inside of about 45 deg. and fill it with solder when you have the two half's in line, file a small angled gap on the outside could be filled using 70 deg. solder and then filed back to the body shape. I think it would be better than body filler.

 

Looking at the roof line what are you supposed to do about the vents?

Best of luck on that one mate.

 

OzzyO.

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Oh I dunno......I'm not disheartened. There's more work in it than there might be, but less than in some 4mm kits I've done.

 

There are parts that fix to the insides and help align and fix the bodysides. I didn't show those.

 

By vents, do you mean the cantrail grilles? They are provided as brass etchings, to be soldered/glued in place.

 

The instructions are OK-ish....mainly photographs of a completed model, or part-completed.

 

I'll re-read the bit about fixing the bodysides together tomorrow, I also need to look at a scale drawing and see if any material needs removed.

 

B@stard file and chalk? Shame I can't use a milling machine......

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I'll need to buy both then.......my files are either quite old, or finer cut.

And chalk? The wife works in a school, but they no longer use chalk........

 

Bought some chalk online, cheap.

 

None of the DIY sheds locally sell decent b@stard files. We HAD a good tool shop.........

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OK, just got back from the £1 shops: nothing, no files, no brushes (wire) of ANY sort.

 

However, The Range saw me buy a set of three files for £6, some chalk, three packs for £1, and a set of four small wire brushes for £1.99, including a brass one.

 

I also picked up some cheap Stanley Allen keys, and a set of tweezers, four for £1, including self locking ones.

 

I tend to be a sucker for tools........

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have often looked at this DJH locomotive but have always been put off because of the joint in the body. I have asked them if they offer service to join the two halves together but they said they did not.

 

I will be very interested in knowing how you get on with this part of the build, it may give me the confidence to have a go.

 

Best wishes and I look forward to the rest of the build, please keep the photographs coming.

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I'm snowed under at the mo fitting out our new bathroom...well, the old one with new bits.

 

The two parts go together using a two part adaptor, which bolts together, then sits inside the body, and is bolted to the body, the screwheads can be soldered or covered with filler.

Once in place, the two halves are soldered, and the joint made good...in theory.

 

I'll try and post pics once I have time. At present I'm clocking 12-14 hour days.........and at 63 it's killing......

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  • 2 months later...

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