RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 26, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 26, 2015 http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ADGR7KW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2AQ0Z388TF8GY&coliid=IPBK2V6V0GXJX Been looking at improving my lights for photography and came across this.Anyone know what the standard diameter of light stands is and any thoughts on what bulb to use with it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Todd Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ADGR7KW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2AQ0Z388TF8GY&coliid=IPBK2V6V0GXJX Been looking at improving my lights for photography and came across this.Anyone know what the standard diameter of light stands is and any thoughts on what bulb to use with it. An E27 match. or termed, ES27, or Edison Screw (large). as opposed to ses, small edison screw, you can get, GES, Giant edison screw. E27 Single Lamp Light Holder Socket Example only of bulbs,................. as there are many choices/colours 2x Photography Daylight White E27 Lighting Lamp Bulbs Light stands,(PDF)............... how long is a piece of string ? No doubt many RMwebbers will have a move definitive view........ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeOxon Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 The fitting you show needs an 'ES' type bulb. (Edison Screw) For cheap photo lights, I suggest using halogen floodlights, such as http://www.amazon.co.uk/Byron-HL120-120W-Halogen-Floodlight/dp/B005MQD9LY/ I have a couple of lights, similar to these, clamped onto cheap tripods. They give a good light but do run hot, so don't leave them on for long. (if you need more light, there are higher power versions but they get even hotter!) You can now get LED versions but I have not tried them for layout photography. A 10W LED has similar light output to100W halogen. These have the advantage that they do not get very hot. Most of the time, however, I use flash, bounced off the ceiling to give even overall lighting. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParkeNd Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 -------------------------Most of the time, however, I use flash, bounced off the ceiling to give even overall lighting. Mike Me too. It needs to be a very powerful flash - but I find this gives the best results nowadays with current technology. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scanman Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Ladies & gentlemen - I first saw this item demonstrated on (I Think) the 'gadget show' as a light source for mobile phones.. Made by Manfrotto, it is a 36-LED photographic light, which fits to the flash shoe of the camera. NOTE this is NOT a flashlight, but a video light. I bought mine from Amazon (usual disclaimer) at http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00593VEM6?keywords=manfrotto%2036-led%20light&qid=1437168337&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 It runs off 4 'AA' batteries with a reported life of 1-2 hours. The light outputs at 5600K - so is in the daylight range. I've done a 'down & dirty' test using my Panasonic FT4 - which actually has no flash-shoe! First - sing the built-in flask (the model is just within the minimum focal distance of the camera.. This with 'available light' - a fluorescent strip light This with the unit just switched on (the output is variable through a small rotary knob on the side of the unit) Running on about 1/3 power Unit on full power. Without the flash shoe this was something of a juggling trick - but first results are quite impressive. I've not done a 'wide area' shoot, but hope to do that tomorrow. Oh yes - please excuse the model, it's still under construction, and half-way through the paint job. The model room is so b...y hot that sweat kept falling on it! Hope this is of interest, Regards Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady_Ava_Hay Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 As an experienced amateur I have found that lighting and the adjustment of same are by far the biggest factor in obtaining good pictures. The equipment one needs for obtaining that light are many and diverse. Battery power and LED's are really only good for close ups. Anything furyher requires a flash and camer mounted flash is not as good as separate flash. The further away you are, the more flash light is needed. I possess two stand mounted flash heads and frequently use both with softboxes ( large diffusers ) to spread the light more evenly. Both are adjustable for flash output. The reason is that your camera will need to know that your flash is syncronised with the camera shutter and I normally use F8 at 1/250th with a film speed of 400ASA. The beauty of digital is that no shot is wasted as such and can be viewed immediately and adjustments made in quick order. Flash lighting is much whiter than any other light source and use of ambient lighting can frequently result in a yellow cast on the picture. Then of course comes the editing in Photoshop and if your camera does it, photographing in RAW format. I note from the Amazon listing that you can buy the bulbs with the bulb holder and since there is no directional element to the light, most will disappear into other parts of the space you are in rather than onto the subject. I think you will be disappointed with the results if you purchase that particular product. For research purposes try a peek at Pixapro who do loads of lighting of both LED and flash. I use a snoot on one of my flash heads for close ups and softboxes on separate flash heads for greater range shots which is more than a few feet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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