harrier mate Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Hopefully this blog will link to my original topic of the same name in the old RM Web. Continuing my slow build of the Martin Finney O gauge A3. With chassis complete I have now started on the boiler sections and firebox which went together neatly with minimal effort. A few photos of progress. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 More progress today. Completed the boiler bands made from Slaters phospher bronze strip. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 In the kit, Martin Finney provides an etched option for the smokebox saddle instead of the 2 chunks of white metal which I made up earlier. As an exercise I decided to 'have a go' to see what the etch and its little web fillets would turn out like. I also noticed that there are no rivets around its periphery which is non scale like. The advantage of the etched version is that I can add rivet detail. Anyway finished it late last night and in comparison I feel the etched version is much better. Just took a little patience (1.5 hours!). Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 How did you solder the phospher bronze to the boiler/firebox. In my experience I have suffered from expansion problems. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcazar Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 I was going to ask the same question as Christian, plus, does the kit have anytthing in it for boiler bands? Also, will the etched saddle need weighting? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Hi Christian and Alcazar, With regard to the phospher bronze bands, I simply tinned the rear side with normal solder (very thin coat), held them in place with crocodile clips at one end and moved the microflame around the band going round the diameter so that any expansion merely 'fell off the end', if that makes sense. Each only took a few minutes. I was more concerned about bursting open the boiler seam at the joint underneath but swift work with the flame prevented that. Nothing magic!! With regard to boiler/smokebox etch, I hadn't thought of needing extra weight at the front end over the bogie. However, as this is the first big loco (i.e with tender and bogie) that I've built I am happy to take advice from those who have!!!! I could always bolt a chunk of the white metal cating inside the etched version which would be invisible bu the loco seems heavy enough without additional weight. Again, I have no idea what one should weigh (for good traction/adhesion etc). Advice always welcome. Nigel PS. There is nothing in the kit for the bands. I know that many experts just use transfers to make the bands. In this case, because the band on the firebox is not painted I needed to apply at least that one. Another spans the joint between the tapered and parallel sections of the boiler and although these are held together with a 6BA bolt, I thought a boiler band would add considerable additional strength. The phospher bronze is paper thin and therefore appears very scale - at least to my inexperienced eye. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Hi Christian and Alcazar, With regard to the phospher bronze bands, I simply tinned the rear side with normal solder (very thin coat), held them in place with crocodile clips at one end and moved the microflame around the band going round the diameter so that any expansion merely 'fell off the end', if that makes sense. Each only took a few minutes. I was more concerned about bursting open the boiler seam at the joint underneath but swift work with the flame prevented that. Nothing magic!! With regard to boiler/smokebox etch, I hadn't thought of needing extra weight at the front end over the bogie. However, as this is the first big loco (i.e with tender and bogie) that I've built I am happy to take advice from those who have!!!! I could always bolt a chunk of the white metal cating inside the etched version which would be invisible bu the loco seems heavy enough without additional weight. Again, I have no idea what one should weigh (for good traction/adhesion etc). Advice always welcome. Nigel PS. There is nothing in the kit for the bands. I know that many experts just use transfers to make the bands. In this case, because the band on the firebox is not painted I needed to apply at least that one. Another spans the joint between the tapered and parallel sections of the boiler and although these are held together with a 6BA bolt, I thought a boiler band would add considerable additional strength. The phospher bronze is paper thin and therefore appears very scale - at least to my inexperienced eye. Hello Nigel, Your A3 is looking great, keep up the good work. Boiler bands strips. Tony Reynalds used to sell these in nickel Silver from his demo stand at Telford a few years ago, but you can get them from Eileens, 1.4mm x 0.002". They also sell the same strips in 1, 1.5,2,2.5,3,3.5,&4mm widths. Brilliant for other things too. You will be able to see these in use on my own build thread to start today. Eventually. Kindest Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Ian, Thanks for the steer to Eileens'. I had been looking for some time for something suitable and saw the phospher bronze at Nation Festival of Railway Modelling a couple of weeks ago. They are also 1.4mm wide and 20 thou thick and work well. I will, however, lookout some spares at the Warley exhibition. Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Ian, Thanks for the steer to Eileens'. I had been looking for some time for something suitable and saw the phospher bronze at Nation Festival of Railway Modelling a couple of weeks ago. They are also 1.4mm wide and 20 thou thick and work well. I will, however, lookout some spares at the Warley exhibition. Nigel Hi Nigel, You`re welcome, but I think perhaps you mean 2 thou" not 20, ??????? Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Hi Ian, Just checked. Good spot of deliberate error! The strips are actually 1/16" wide (1.6mm) and 4 thou thick (0.12mm). Still seems paper thin to me. What are you about to build? Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Hi Ian, Just checked. Good spot of deliberate error! The strips are actually 1/16" wide (1.6mm) and 4 thou thick (0.12mm). Still seems paper thin to me. What are you about to build? Nigel Hi Nigel, I have just posted a new thread on two 7mm scratchbuilt Modified Halls. A real start to be made tomorrow. After that, three Castles, two Re-built Scots and two princess`. Keep me out of mischief. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Not satisfied with building one at a time!!! Only joking. I am now addicted to "large" tender locos. I would love to build a Britannia but am not keen on white metal "ready made" boilers/fireboxes such as DJH. The Malcolm Mitchell GWR locos look excellent and I can visualise a King or Castle on the Christmas list! Not sure that my wife shares the vision yet. Failing that I also like the look of the MOK Bulleid, Class 8F and 4MT Choices, choices!! Are yours scratch built or kits and if so - whose? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Not satisfied with building one at a time!!! Only joking. I am now addicted to "large" tender locos. I would love to build a Britannia but am not keen on white metal "ready made" boilers/fireboxes such as DJH. The Malcolm Mitchell GWR locos look excellent and I can visualise a King or Castle on the Christmas list! Not sure that my wife shares the vision yet. Failing that I also like the look of the MOK Bulleid, Class 8F and 4MT Choices, choices!! Are yours scratch built or kits and if so - whose? Nigel, They are all scratch as I am not keen on kits. I am teetering on the brink to go .....................................dare I say it..............Scale 7. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Nigel, They are all scratch as I am not keen on kits. I am teetering on the brink to go .....................................dare I say it..............Scale 7. Ian Hi Ian, Well I never thought I'd hear you say those dreaded words , I suppose that's why your on the look out for a lathe then. Hoping to finally start the 42xx at the weekend, so expect some cries for HELP !!! from me. Sorry to hijack your interesting thread Nigel that A3 is coming together very nicely indeed, I have a Finney 28xx waiting on a shelf to be built and from reading your comments on these Finney kits it looks like I have a few 100 hours of kit building ahead of me :D:D. All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Hi Ian, Well I never thought I'd hear you say those dreaded words , I suppose that's why your on the look out for a lathe then. Hoping to finally start the 42xx at the weekend, so expect some cries for HELP !!! from me. Sorry to hijack your interesting thread Nigel that A3 is coming together very nicely indeed, I have a Finney 28xx waiting on a shelf to be built and from reading your comments on these Finney kits it looks like I have a few 100 hours of kit building ahead of me :D. All the best, Martyn. Martyn, You could try to stop me tipping over the edge I suppose. Lack of access to a S7 layout or test track is probably my saviour. Regards Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Martyn, You could try to stop me tipping over the edge I suppose. Lack of access to a S7 layout or test track is probably my saviour. Regards Ian Hi Ian, As you know its quite easy to start a full scale debate with the pros and cons of f/s vs S7, I personally have to much stock to consider changing scale and IMHO the tolerances are so fine that you really need 7' to 8' radius at the least for most 2-8-0's and many main line 4-6-0's or 4-6-2's. Now I am going to duck down, as I'm sure there is some flack heading my way. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Hi All, Boiler and firebox now complete (well apart from all the details!) so I've made a start on the cab. Couple of photos below of the cab base. I haven't bothered cleaning up the solder residue in the recesses (lazy I know) as this will need tinning eventually with low melt solder for the white metal floor castings. I am very tempted to make "real" hinges for the rear fall plate with a piece of brass tube and bar. Probably will wait until the tender is complete ( aaaagh I forgot I still have the tender to build!) to see how they join together. More tomorrow hopefully with the weekend here again. Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 More progress with the cab and also forming the roof. Detailing to follow and big decisions to be made as to whether to screw the components together of solder. Tempted to screw together as this will make painting the body work significantly simpler. Photos below as usual. Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nortonian Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Hello Nigel, I would deffinately recommend you screw the components together where possible, if not for your own sake, the painters. Keep up the good work. Regards Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 More progress with the cab and also forming the roof. Detailing to follow and big decisions to be made as to whether to screw the components together of solder. Tempted to screw together as this will make painting the body work significantly simpler. Photos below as usual. Nigel Hi Nigel Lovely neat work. The following expression has always helped me: "Never solder if you can screw,and never, never ever glue..." Have probably opened a can of worms there, but it has always worked for me, particularly with etched brass, nickel and whitemetal such as we are likely to encounter. Personally, I seem to be constantly dismantling my sub-structures to add something I forgot, or missed from the photo, or dropped and damaged...and was invariably glad that I'd screwed it together. Fabrcated saddle looks good too and captures the look of the prototype well. Robin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Hi All, Getting there now. The boiler and cab are screwed together (although just placed on the footplate for photos). The sanding linkage is also complete, using mixture of scale hardware 0.7mm rivets and 0.8mm simulated hex nuts. And finally the etched saddle is soldeed to the boiler and will be screwed to footplate. Hand rails start tomorrow. Cab roof is removeable but may fix permanently once cab detailing finished. Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 Hi All, Progress seems to be inversely proportional to how close the model is to completion!! However, with great care and a little trepidation I managed to remove the footplate from its supporting jig without damage using mini drill/cutting wheel. Phew! So now I can focus on whether there is suficient room for wiper contacts along top of chassis as opposed to plungers. Top tip from Dikitriki was to apply solder where the sanding rod disappears behind each of the wheel splashers and then snip off the hiden section of rod. As I have built the chassis using middle width (of 3 widths) spacers in the frames and want the loco to negotiate 6 ft radius curves (in extremis) the lateral movement of the axle would cause the wheel rim to bind on the sanding rod inside the splasher. Invisible fix from the outside. Photos this weekend after a drool at the exhibits at Warley if I can get in! Not been before and the NEC web site seems to suggest that prior booking/purchase of tickets essential especially on Saturdays. Anyone know if this is true??? Otherwise might have to spend the entrance and car parking fee on more bits in local model shop instead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 Couple of quick photos of the sanding rod modification. Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Great work as usual Nigel, Now that you have removed the running plate from the jig, how strong is the running plate assembly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrier mate Posted November 20, 2009 Author Share Posted November 20, 2009 Christian, Thanks for your response. I am very much of the opinion that achieving this is only a matter of patience. The real skill is that of the it manufacturer. When I place all the pieces together, they fit perfectly which makes the kit more of a lego assembly. My worry is that one day I will buy something that isn't as well designed and then have to employ modelling skills which I don't yet possess! With regard to the strength of the footplate, it is relatively flimsy. The valance is only just over 1mm deep and so any ham fisted handling could easily distort the overall shape. However, I don't expect it to be sat unsupported like this for long. When it is bolted to the boiler/cab assembly, it is as solid as a rock. Also, it fits on to the chassis like a glove and perfectly square. I still haven't decided whether to solder or screw the boiler to the footplate but tend to favour recent advice "not to solder if you can screw and never never glue!" Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.