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Just ordered a C&L Turnout kit


bigdaveadams1

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Thanks for the link Hayfield. I couldn't get that, only EM for some reason.Will sort out an order in the morning. Apologies to the OP for this diversion.

 

Hi Coachmann,

C&L Finescale have just started a sale, so they may have been working on the particular page you were looking for, making it unobtainable perhaps?  The good news is that Flexitrack is included in the sale as far as I know.  HTH

 

polybear

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Because I'm an idiot and you lovely people are so helpful, could someone post a link for the gauges that I'll need please?

 

I assume is is OO-SF Check gauges and OO-SF Track Gauges? Also I'm thinking I might need some OO-SF 3 Point gauges?

 

Cheers for any advice.

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Also I'm thinking I might need some OO-SF 3 Point gauges?

 

Hi Dave,

 

Not necessarily. See: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/94567-oo-sf-and-oo-bf-can-you-mix/&do=findComment&comment=1734793

 

C&L say they are expecting the 00-SF gauges to be back in stock within days. A lot of folks are waiting for them, they might go out-of-stock quickly again -- order now?

 

Martin.

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Because I'm an idiot and you lovely people are so helpful, could someone post a link for the gauges that I'll need please?

 

I assume is is OO-SF Check gauges and OO-SF Track Gauges? Also I'm thinking I might need some OO-SF 3 Point gauges?

 

Cheers for any advice.

 

Here you go:

 

http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=346_375_376

 

You'll need a pair of 16.2mm Track Gauges, a pair of 15.2mm Check Gauges, and a 1mm steel strip (not sold by C&L) for setting the Crossing Flangeway.

A pair of 16.2mm 3-point Gauges isn't essential, but in my opinion dead useful cos' they allow you to do things like this:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69145-attention-00-sf-track-builders/page-4#

 

(post number #77, 4th picture down)

 

HTH

polybear

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Thank you both for your quick replies!

 

I'm thinking I'll hold off on the 3 point gauges for now, instead I'll use the 16.5mm track gauges to spread out the gauge before the flexi etc.

 

As for Steel shim, where might one obtain that from then?

 

Oh and then after all of this, there's the matter of how to attach a Cobalt point motor?!!!!!!

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I'm surprised no one has suggested to Dave about the differences between using the C&L template provided and printing one out of Templot.

 

Dave

I too am a beginner with making points (or turnouts if you insist) and I have found it easier to make them using Templot templates. There's nothing wrong with C&L templates of course, but with Templot you can build it to exactly how you want it- which may be different to the mode standard templates available via C&L. Also you can print multiple templates in order to plan anything from a simple crossover to something like Clapham Junction- fully confident that if you have designed it correctly, it WILL fit together properly. Additionally, as a beginner I am finding the ability to print multiple copies- one for working on, one for reference etc.

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I'm surprised no one has suggested to Dave about the differences between using the C&L template provided and printing one out of Templot.

 

Dave

I too am a beginner with making points (or turnouts if you insist) and I have found it easier to make them using Templot templates. There's nothing wrong with C&L templates of course, but with Templot you can build it to exactly how you want it- which may be different to the mode standard templates available via C&L. Also you can print multiple templates in order to plan anything from a simple crossover to something like Clapham Junction- fully confident that if you have designed it correctly, it WILL fit together properly. Additionally, as a beginner I am finding the ability to print multiple copies- one for working on, one for reference etc.

Thanks Derek. I've only just started using templot, but I think you are right regarding multiple templates. I had thought about photocopying the C&L one just to use as a reference and using the original as the one to build the point/turnout on.

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Dave

I can strongly recommend Templot. Not just for the obvious advantages such a programme has, but you will also learn a staggering amount about trackwork by using it. I have only been back in this hobby since late Sept last year and the learning curve has been very steep, but I learned an awful lot via Templot.

 

I bought my first CL kits as I thought that would be an easy way to get to grips with it before building my own vee's and blades etc. I have built two now using CL components (but on plywood rather than plastic timbers) and they came out OK-ish and I'm sure the next one will be better.

 

But as a beginner who has learned a couple of things the hard way. The instructions from CL aren't bad, but I can strongly recommend reading through as much as you can on the Templot forum and the track building forum on here; at least it has certainly helped me to understand things better. (I have no connection to Templot other than as a user who is greatly appreciative of the use of the software and the incredibly generous help and advice from Mr Templot himself and others here)

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Had a bash with Templot this morning. What an excellent piece of software! It will certainly be useful further down the line when I finally gain enough confidence to start building curved turnouts.

Even when building a 'straight' turnout half of it is curved, when you realise this then curved turnouts should hold no fears!

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Even when building a 'straight' turnout half of it is curved, when you realise this then curved turnouts should hold no fears!

Ha ha ha, yes, definitely a case of mental conditioning. If the curved section on a straight turnout works then you know you can do a full curve!

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  • 1 month later...

The simple way I do them is to line up the centre line of the toe end of the turnout over a horizontal line. Next press F6 (curve)  and curve the tip of the vee over the same line.

 

Next using shove timbers adjust the timbers to the vertical, if the middle between the toe and vee favours one side more than the other then use the swell function

 

There is an easy way of adjusting the timbers which I always forget

 

There is a more involved method where you end up with 2 set points (one each side) at the toe end

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