Weathering 37418

[Rick_Skateboard]

Hello All.

 

Here's some pictures of my attempt to weather my model 37418. It's my first serious attempt at weathering a loco and my first go doing it with an airbrush. The paints are all Railmatch or Games Workshops colours. Comments and criticism appreciated, there's a few things I already want to change/sort out at a later date - but I'm quite pleased for now.

 

Cheers,

 

Rick

 

Before

After

[mason]

great work, so much difference from the first shot, well done

 

neil

 

 

[ews60002]

Hi,

 

Thats good weathering mate, I was nervous when i did my first weathering job. If it helps i'd practice by using old toy cars. I've got so many cars that have light/medium and heavy weathering jobs done to them.........LOL

 

Practice make perfect as they say.

 

Mathew

[NickL2008]

Very nice effort! I think I must eventually get around to using an airbrush! although I think my efforts are ok for the time being, I think the spike that represents the nose airiel kind of ruins a good model! nice job though none the less especially the underframe!

 

NL

[Road Stone]

I really like the way your painting has high lighted the pipework on the bogies.

 

Looks great,

 

Cheers, Jerry

[James Hilton]

Rick that's an excellent job - and judging from some of the details that immediately jump out to me as 'right', I'm guessing based on some photos?! The exhaust/road dirt on the bonnet just looks 'right' to me awesome.

[Jon020]

Rick,

Very nice indeed. I made my first attempt a few weeks ago... and was pleased with my results... I bet you must be chuffed: I'm looking forward to doing my next two deltics - which will be dirtier than the first (a pre-overhaul Tulyar and Gatehead Green Howards)... So I'm looking forward to that.

 

Did you use sleeper grime sprayed on for the bogies (both of which look very nicely detailed by the way)? When I did mine, I used a combination of SG, frame dirt and brake dust in varying amounts to produce an uneven finish... but yours gives a wonderful well-run-in look.

 

Jon

[Lukasz]

That is a superb loco.

Having followed the gallery pictures on you detailing the chassis it's all come together outstandingly with the weathering.

 

Maybe a darker sootier colour could be used around the exhausts possibly?

 

The roof dirt looks great anyhow though its just something I noticed that they seem to get darker blacker soot around the exhausts.

 

Lukasz

[big_daddy_ray]

Excellent job :icon_thumbsup2: , I have only weathered stock myself hoping to progress to loco's soon though as i have one or two i could do, you haven't got a list of the paints and tricks that you used have you.

[Jon020]

Rick, upon seeing Lukeasz's comment, I too loked at you gallery... wow, that's an execellent detailing job. I agree with your comment about Bachmann's lack of ETH bits... I'm doing 1978 period deltics and whilst some come fitted with a representation of a connector, there's no cabling or lower connectors/receptables. Without these, or all of the pipework (including the airbrake pipes which Bachmann leave out altogether) the underframe is very lightweight and looses all of the loco front end's bulky appeal. I had a go at some of these (incluing the buffer beam steps - modified class 50 steps - can't get "55" ones at present) and was happy with the result.. but having seen what you've acheived, I really think that I ought to try something more, especially as the bogies are the same!

Thanks for that extra bit of inspiration to strive for a little more perfection.

 

1.Oh... I'm intrigued. You've got a very nice edge to the weathering at the front edge of the bonnets - how did you achieve this. I'd love to know (actually) how you managed to keep the airbrushing so neat?

 

Which one have you got? I got the Premi-air G35 after reading George Dent's review in Model rail (relatively cheap but quite good performance) and the baby compressor to control the airflow

[Jon020]

Oops... pushed the wrong button... or did the site glitch as I typed. It's been hiccuping again, hasn't it .

 

Are those also working screw lkink couplings? I used the Hornby ones... but can't get these now, so am looking at alternatives (I started a thread on this with good suggestions - yet to follow these up).

 

Just to finish... what you've achieved is great. The detail is superb and weathering is excellent. When I started (recenbtly) I wanted to strive for a change from the plastic-model look into a miniture representation of the real thing - I think you beat me to it:icon_thumbsup2:

[big T]

Very nice indeed.

[Rick_Skateboard]

Hello All,

 

Thanks for all the kind words and sorry I've been so slow replying.

 

I think the spike that represents the nose airiel kind of ruins a good model!

 

You're right about this, I think I'll replace the aerials with fine wire.

 

Rick that's an excellent job - and judging from some of the details that immediately jump out to me as 'right', I'm guessing based on some photos?! The exhaust/road dirt on the bonnet just looks 'right' to me awesome.

 

Thanks, I looked at a lot of photos of Highland Rail 37s and thought the dirt on the noses was a distinctive feature. I'm glad someone commented on it without promting!

 

Did you use sleeper grime sprayed on for the bogies (both of which look very nicely detailed by the way)? When I did mine, I used a combination of SG, frame dirt and brake dust in varying amounts to produce an uneven finish... but yours gives a wonderful well-run-in look.

 

For the bogies, I took the wheels out and weathered them seperately. I drew tire slip lines on the wheels first, then weathered them, then drew some more fresh lines to represent recent attention from fitters. I painted the whole underframe and bogies with Railmatch Weathered Black and painted the brake blocks seperately with Humbrol 113, which is a matt brown I find makes a good rust colour. Finally I weathered the bogies with Games Workshop Graveyard Earth.

 

 

Maybe a darker sootier colour could be used around the exhausts possibly?

 

The roof dirt looks great anyhow though its just something I noticed that they seem to get darker blacker soot around the exhausts.

 

Yes I think the roof still needs some work, I intend to add to it using Humbrol Metalcote Gunmetal (53) as explained in 'The Art of Weathering' by Martyn welch (essential reading!).

 

 

Excellent job :icon_thumbsup2: , I have only weathered stock myself hoping to progress to loco's soon though as i have one or two i could do, you haven't got a list of the paints and tricks that you used have you.

 

The list of paints used is a follows:

 

Undreframe weathering = Games Workshop Graveyard Earth

Roof weathering = Railmatch Weathered Black and Games Workshop Chaos Black (used sparingly)

Fuel spillages = Games Workshop Gloss Varnish

Brake Blocks = Humbrol 113

 

I found the Games Workshop paints quite hard to thin to a good airbrushing mix and there was quite a lot of wasteage, but I guess I'll get better at that with practice!

 

As for tricks, not many really! This was my first serious attempt but I just dived in knowing that I could always wipe it off if it went wrong because the paints are acrylic. The only advice I can offer is make sure your work area is will lit and do lots and lots of small coats of paint rather than trying to belt it all on quickly. The acrylics dry very quickly in small doses so you don't have to wait long between coats.

 

1.Oh... I'm intrigued. You've got a very nice edge to the weathering at the front edge of the bonnets - how did you achieve this. I'd love to know (actually) how you managed to keep the airbrushing so neat?

 

Which one have you got? I got the Premi-air G35 after reading George Dent's review in Model rail (relatively cheap but quite good performance) and the baby compressor to control the airflow

 

The noses were done by shooting over the edges, if that makes sense? That way the paint falls on the nose, right to the edge, and the overspray just goes on the newspaper (put some down, or you make a right mess!). The only problem with this method was a shadow being cast by the aerial but if you work from a couple of different angles you should cover everywhere needed. As for my airbrush, I don't even know what it is! A cheapo one off eBay!

 

Are those also working screw lkink couplings? I used the Hornby ones... but can't get these now, so am looking at alternatives (I started a thread on this with good suggestions - yet to follow these up).

 

Just to finish... what you've achieved is great. The detail is superb and weathering is excellent. When I started (recenbtly) I wanted to strive for a change from the plastic-model look into a miniture representation of the real thing - I think you beat me to it:icon_thumbsup2:

 

Thanks a lot! The couplings are Heljan, robbed off my 26 (which means I'll now need to find some more for that!), I am also looking for a good source of scale modern image screw couplings. I wondered if I could modify a smiths one to give a better look but some of the functionality?

 

As I said above, I intend to add to the roof with Humbrol paint, but I've not sprayed any enamels yet so that'll need some testing first. I think I'll try to put a dark wash into the grilles - particularly the yellow ones on the noses and I think there are a few harsh lines that need blending in better, so next time I'm doing some weathering I'll have another go at it. I intend to weather a class 47 next, using similar methods but with the addition of an attempt at fading the body colour first. I'll post the results here again.

 

Cheers again everyone.

 

Rick

[Jon020]

Rick,

Thanks for all the information... I'll try the weathering effect over the bonnet on my next 55... although the more rounded edges might result in a softer effect and I also need to render the prototypical dirty areas only. The screw link couplings issue is tricky. The use of Heljan ones is noted... although I haven't found any avaialbale as spares yet. I started a thread on this subject a few weeks ago and got somne good pointers try searching for screwlink couplins, if you're interested.

Hopefully, I'll be able to complete my current 55s (1978 period Domino headcoded Tulyar and The Green Howards) soon - but I'm waiting on Brian Hanson (Shawplan) to let me know if/when his class 55 etch bits are available - I've got no reply to my e-mails at present... hope he's ok.

 

I too now have a Duff to detail and weather - the Bachmann Domino head code one - to be converted to a Finsbury park unit, corrected, detailed and lioghtly weathered... am lookign forward to this one :icon_biggrin:, my brother has one too and I think that this is supposed to headed to the workbench at the same timne - it's always easier to do two at the same time rather than complete one... and then do it again:icon_rolleyes:

 

Anyway, keep up the good work and I hope that you're able to post more pictures soon - thanks for the inpiration... and for making we wonder whether I should also consider a tractor for my slowly expanding fleet - my friend's juts acquired a sound version, so I expect that watching this trawl around his new layout might be the decider. Oh well... it's only money

J

[mike knowles]

Am I right in thinking, looking at the pictures of 37418, that you've fitted the PHD Designs etched bogie side steps?

I'm currently building some - they are fabulous though rather fiddly, 7 individual parts to solder together to make one step assembly! I was going to do a thread on their construction but not sure if you have covered this elsewhere.

In addition I'm on with fitting the latest etched windsceen surrounds with the pre cut glazing from Shawplan. The etched surrounds are now in nickel silver which makes them somewhat more durable than the previous brass ones and the pre cut glazing makes glazing so much easier. I also like the plastic used for the glazing as it is quite resistant to scratching as long as you're careful. Again I can put some details/photos of their installation on the tthread if anyone's interested/it hasn't been done elsewhere.

[46444]

Hi Rick,

 

Looked at this previously and was highly impressed.

 

You have certainly captured the appearance of a work stained Tractor.

 

It's a good livery on the 37's and you have managed to keep the colour tones prototypical.

 

Great looking engine-though I'm biased because Tractors are my favourite engines.

 

Look forwards to more great work.

 

Cheers.

 

Mark

 

 

[forest2807]

Hi Rick

I'm about to renumber a Bachmann 37410 to 418 and have to say that your model is excellent. In the first photo you appear to have added a black Inverness Stag to the top of the bonnet below the aerial, and the blue 'Wick' sticker between the marker lights on the headcode box, as per the prototype circa 1987. Can I ask where you got these transfers from?

Regards

Adrian

[Rick_Skateboard]

Adrian,

 

The stag outline is a Fox Transfers 2mm scale cabside stag with the border cut away so just the stag itself if left. The 'Wick' sticker on the dominoes box is a 4mm BR first class window sticker, I think that was Fox too. Hope that helps? Good luck with the renumber.

 

Cheers,

 

Rick