Talyllyn Junction. The Station area has been started!

[PjKing1]

Very very impressive mate big thumbs up and with your talent I wouldn't be dreading the single slip I'd be enjoying every moment!!

 

Cheers, Paul

[hayfield]

David

 

A really nice piece of work there, interesting to see how others approach building turnout complexes. Looking at what you have done so far the slip should be quite straight forward. Thanks for sharing the build with us, very interesting and informative

[3 link]

Hi David,

 

Not trying to teach granny, but regarding the slip I prefer to work from bottom to top if that makes any sense. That way you can make sure everything stays in gauge as you go, and not just rely on the templates as the track work can tend to creep a bit.

 

Funnily enough I am half way through building one myself as part of a crossover, I have only just started again as I was waiting for some more supplies from C&L, which turned up yesterday. So if I get time today I will post a couple of photos up to show my method. Mind you at your build speed you will probably have it finished before I get started !

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

[Jintyman]

Very very impressive mate big thumbs up and with your talent I wouldn't be dreading the single slip I'd be enjoying every moment!!

 

Cheers, Paul

Thanks Paul,

 

I am enjoying the build, I just push myself a bit to hard sometimes and then find it quite daunting.

For example, all I've ever done prior to the 7mm turnout was some OO-SF copperclad construction, I then build one 7mm turnout, and then next thing I build is this complex!!!!

 

David

 

A really nice piece of work there, interesting to see how others approach building turnout complexes. Looking at what you have done so far the slip should be quite straight forward. Thanks for sharing the build with us, very interesting and informative

And thank you Hayfield, after all, I've looked through both your construction threads and others to get an idea of how to go about things.

And looking at the kind of work you produce, I will take that as a compliment indeed.

 

Hi David,

 

Not trying to teach granny, but regarding the slip I prefer to work from bottom to top if that makes any sense. That way you can make sure everything stays in gauge as you go, and not just rely on the templates as the track work can tend to creep a bit.

 

Funnily enough I am half way through building one myself as part of a crossover, I have only just started again as I was waiting for some more supplies from C&L, which turned up yesterday. So if I get time today I will post a couple of photos up to show my method. Mind you at your build speed you will probably have it finished before I get started !

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

Again Martyn,

 

Thank you very much. Yes I was pondering about how to go about the slip, after much thought, I'd decided to put the crossing vee in at the end nearest the two turnouts (I have to check myself and not write points before MW comes and shouts at me ), and then work away from them, using the curved side as a sort of datum to work from.

I will look forward to seeing how you go about it, as Hayfield says above, it's nice to see other approaches to things.

By the way, I certainly wouldn't call it teaching Granny, I'm a novice at this really!!!

 

Thanks again for all the input and comments

 

Jinty

Edited July 4, 2015 by Jintyman

[martin_wynne]

Yes I was pondering about how to go about the slip, after much thought, I'd decided to put the crossing vee in at the end nearest the two turnouts, and then work away from them, using the curved side as a sort of datum to work from.

 

Hi Jinty,

 

Bear in mind that the curved side rail in a slip has two set bends in it, which must be the correct distance apart, be of the correct angle, and be in the right places. So using that rail as a datum to work from may not be the easiest approach.

 

It's important for a diamond-crossing or slip to have an accurate template. Assuming you have one you can print a rails-only copy on tracing paper which you can lay on the rail tops to check the alignment.

 

For a diamond-crossing or single slip, my practice is (or rather was, it's quite a while since I built one) to start with one of the vees, aligning it usually with some existing track. Then add the long stock rail on the non-slip side. This has only one bend in it at the centre, and is not too difficult to bend and align to the template. Then add the second vee at the other end, checking 27 times that it is exactly the correct distance from the first vee. Laying a tracing paper template on top is the best way to do that if it's a curved formation. With both vees in place it is much easier to prepare and check the set bends in the opposite slip rail.

 

For a double-slip I tack-lay temporary dummy rails through the K-crossings, again with the object of getting the two vees aligned and exactly the correct distance apart. After which the dummy rails can be removed.

 

Like this:

 

 

I have to check myself and not write points before MW comes and shouts at me

 

If you make sure you always write points plural, you can happily mean one thing and I can happily read another.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[Jintyman]

 

Thanks Martin,

 

Informative as usual.

 

Of course the curved will have 2 bends in, so yes it will be more difficult. I will proceed as you suggest.

 

Thanks again

 

Jinty

[Guest bri.s]

Point works looking great mate ,look forward to seeing the slip

 

Brian

[hayfield]

Jinty

 

The system I follow for building slips after taking advice from many, especially Martin Wynn who is so helpful. Is to set the Vee's/ common crossings in place first (checking if its a straight slip) that both crossing rails match up with the stock rail position of the other, using straight edges.

 

Next I do the same with the stock rails (before the set) ensuring that the stock rail lines up with the corresponding rail on the other Vee. Sounds far more difficult in words than it is in practice. As I said I like to see how others approach the method and order of building trackwork, I get great ideas from others, most of which I pinch.

 

I have a couple of thoughts on obtuse (K) crossings and am looking forward to see how you build yours

[Donw]

I find the correct placement of the crossing Vs is the essential thing particularly for slips.

 

Don

[Jintyman]

 

Right I made a start on the slip yesterday, a 'Start' being the word really!!!!!

 

Firstly I had loads of domestic chores lined up for me, so didn't get to the garage till about 4pm. What did I do first, I made up a crossing vee. Unfortunately, I made it up with the nose section, upside down!!!!! Grrrr.

 

So I then made another one, fitted it and that was the end of my modelling day!!!!

 

Up bright and early this morning, fitted the 'Bent' stock rail and one of the other adjoining rails. And that's about as far as I've got.

 

Work today, and F1 when I get home, so nothing more till Monday now, but at least I can get on with it with a fresh pair of eyes, as I always find that helps!!!!!!!

 

Jinty

[Jon Fitness]

From what I've seen of the pointwork you've done already, it'll be a breeze for you!

Super stuff

JF

[Giles]

Regarding tie-bars, I make them from copper-pax, but use it on edge, and solder bits of tube to the side to take the pins. The copper-pax can then also be filed down to a profile more like the actual bars are, thus getting the best of all worlds. (The one shown has not been profiled yet)

 

Edited July 5, 2015 by Giles

[Jintyman]

Regarding tie-bars, I make them from copper-pax, but use it on edge, and solder bits of tube to the side to take the pins. The copper-pax can then also be filed down to a profile more like the actual bars are, thus getting the best of all worlds. (The one shown has not been profiled yet)

 

Hi Giles,

 

Thank you for stopping by. That is pretty much the design that I'd decided upon from the posts #245 and #246, with just a slight alteration in the same vein as yourself with the profiling.

 

I think somewhat better alternative to the rigid fixings that don't allow the blade to naturally flex as it should.

 

Jinty

[Giles]

I've been meaning to say that I think your trackwork is looking superb - those sleepers (with the staining you've done) make me want to rip up mine!!!

[Jintyman]

 

I've been meaning to say that I think your trackwork is looking superb - those sleepers (with the staining you've done) make me want to rip up mine!!!

Thank you Giles,

 

The jury is still out on the staining as yet, but it is growing on me the more I look at it, it will look better with a few gentle passes with the airbrush. The sleepers are from Intentio Design and stained with Rustins Dark Teak.

 

Jinty

[Jintyman]

Well a better start has been made on the slip.

 

I started by fitting the crossing vee nearest to the pointwork (The right hand one in the picture below). I then formed and fitted the 'bent' stockrail, and then the second crossing vee.

After that I formed and fitted the four running rails across the crossing, fitting the slide chairs where needed, and made up the K crossing check rail.

 

 

And a view from above, sort of!!!

 

 

A bite to eat now and a brew, then the next piece I'm fabricating and fitting is the other 'curved' stock rail.

 

Jinty

[muddys-blues]

Do you ever work or sleep ?

[Guest bri.s]

Great work so far on the slip mate ,just noticed you've even got the fishplates on the points lol

 

Brian

[Donw]

you're making this looks so easy! Good work

 

Don

Edited July 6, 2015 by Donw

[Jintyman]

Thank you all,

 

A late afternoon and the Slip is finished, baring tie bars that is.

 

Once I'd located the two crossing vees and the 'bent' stock rail, I've sort of worked away from the 'bent' stock rail towards the other side, and it went together quite straight forward (Not sure what I was worried about). There is a curve through the slip in both directions, where one can be seen clearly in the second photo. Not sure if the curve is even right the way through, but stock will pass through quite happily in all directions, without any sudden bumps. when I tried a wagon first time, it bounced off and I thought 'Oh bug##r', but I'd forgotten about the blades being slightly sprung against the running rail, an it had launched itself over the blade!!!! Phew!!

 

Here are a few pictures

 

From above

 

 

Down low, showing the curvature that runs right through the crossing

 

 

And a couple from the other end of the complete complex

 

 

 

I feel somewhat relieved now, and this is the bulk of the point work for Talyllyn Junction, just two crossovers and the turnout out of the tunnel. Oh and a catch point in the cattle siding.

 

So as well as finishing the garage, I can now set about getting some stock built.

 

Comments always welcome

 

Jinty

[Great Western]

I could look at the picture all day! Magic

 

Great Western

[RobJC]

The "flow" through the whole complex looks faultless. Lovely work.

 

[martin_wynne]

Regarding tie-bars, I make them from copper-pax, but use it on edge, and solder bits of tube to the side to take the pins. The copper-pax can then also be filed down to a profile more like the actual bars are, thus getting the best of all worlds. (The one shown has not been profiled yet)

 

 

Hi Giles,

 

That's looking very neat.

 

You may not realise that the blade tips (points) are usually supported on a slide chair, not free in fresh air between the timbers. Typically the tip overlaps the centre of the chair by 3.1/2 inches. Here are a couple of pics showing a GWR joggled switch at Kidderminster:

 

 

 

Of course there are exceptions, mostly on light railways, industrial and narrow-gauge. For conventional standard-gauge these pics are typical of the normal practice.

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[3 link]

Hi David,

 

I told you that you would beat me, as you can see I have still got two check rails to fit. I built my turnouts from bottom to top because the turnouts are set on a curve through the station area.

 

 

I am using one of my 6 wheeled milk tankers and a long wheel base guards van to check how smooth they roll through the turnouts, all is well with no noticeable drop or bump so 31.5mm is the way to go in my opinion.

 

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

[Dmudriver]

Jinty, that's just fantastic, especially with the curves through the slip.  You've done a really good job on the whole complex.  Then there's Martyn's slip, also curved!! What fabulous trackwork, both of them.

 

Rod