hayfield Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 I have acquired a couple of these kits over the past year, one has the coreless motor and gears the other without Now my question is should I keep this motor and gear set, or sell it and buy a couple of large Mashima's and a couple of one or two stage gear boxes. Don't ask why I have 2 kits, but fancy building one with a cab roof and the other with an open cab, they seem to be quite well used in both the south and west of the country, but scrapped early on. Still a bit of modellers licence might just see one in GWR colours and the other in SECR/SR livery No fixed plans yet but as I want to build them in tandem I need to sort out motors, so I need a bit of assistance please Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Hi John, Most of us 7mm chaps go for the ABC range of g/boxes, they will also help you decide the best combination of motor/g/box to suit which type of loco it is to be fitted to. I will warn you that they are not cheap but they run like a swiss watch and are almost silent in use straight from the box. HTH, Martyn. PS, Welcome to the slippery slope of the best gauge there is, IMO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Martyn Thanks for the information, I have not heard of this range (ABC) will study the link. Any thoughts about the motor and gear box supplied in one of the kits please Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
decauville1126 Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 I've got one and it took a bit of chopping to get the motor and gearbox to go into the firebox space but it does fit (eventually!) Seems to work ok and I've no reason to change it. The kit was designed by a chap who was the bees knees (I'm not going to say who else you might find your thread hijacked into double figures of pages!) of the time and exploited the computer-drawn artwork of that age but it will take a bit of work to make it go together. Slaters later dropped the "with motor and gearbox" bit ! However the D-ended 1/8" axles (now superceded) do not take too kindly to refitting the wheels after several removals so once the chassis is running ok leave it alone. You'll see that you are really dealing with 4mm scale componentry in a 7mm scale model! Since it's introduction drives have moved on a lot and I sometimes even use the High Level ones designed for 4mm scale in small 7mm scale locos although they are not unduly loaded. But it really is a nice kit with many variable parts and seems to catch the many characteristics better than the whitemetal version available from SD Models - although their show model does look nice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Thanks for that, I am not too enamoured with the motor/gearbox design and if its a bit of a drag I might be better buying a more modern motor/gearbox configuration which may be a bit easier to fit. This may make better use of the coreless motor for a larger loco which it may fit easier and be more appreciated by another modeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 I built one back in the mid-80's using the coreless motor supplied. The only problem with the motor/gearbox was that the final gear wheel was a bit tight on the axle and needed reaming out slightly. It certainly ran well enough and was an expensive unit for the day - Faulhaber IIRC. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 Ray Thanks, I am just thinking its a bit too posh for me and whilst would be a better unit a Mashima with a more suitable gearbox may be far easier for me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 I have one of these in a 2F that I built and it works well but getting it set up was a bit of a pain in the ar$e , but once set up it runs very well and is just about quite. If it is the same as the one I have the motor and gearbox (1) are mounted to the frames and gearbox (2) is mounted on the axle. You then have a set of U/Js between the two. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 OzzyO Thanks, in one way a universal joint system may be easier, but I think the instructions (and post 4) say its a little bit of a squash fitting it, that is why I am thinking of fitting a smaller motor and appropriate gear box. I think its a Faulhaber motor, if so it may be better in a loco slightly larger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted May 14, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 14, 2015 I scratchbuilt one of the earlier 'I' class versions some years back and used a Mashima 1630 sitting vertically in the firebox mated to a 80-1 double reduction gearbox driving the middle axle (beam compensation on front/middle axles). I also used the same design/combination in an Impetus Hudswell Clarke with equal success. These days I would certainly use a High Level gearbox of a similar ratio to allow for the smaller motor size. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheffield Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I would have thought an ABC motor and gearbox would be too large for this model. I used a Mashima standing vertically in the firebox driving the rear axle using a Highlevel gearbox. The axles are one eighth diameter, allowing the use of 4mm motor/gearbox combinations. Slater's original intention was for the motor to sit horizontally in the boiler. with a gearbox in the firebox driving the rear axle, but this layout requires the boiler and smokebox to be removable from the footplate and firebox, or the body can not be removed from the chassis. This is alright, but it does mean the body relies on the footplate to keep every thing horizontal. With the motor restricted to the firebox the boiler can be fixed in place and the body, now more robust, can just lift off the chassis. A nice little kit that I enjoyed assembling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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