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Laser cut buildings - time to take up Macrame*


Fen End Pit

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*This is the standing joke in my house when model railways become just too difficult.

 

I'm in the dumps as no matter what I try I just can't get a brick finish I'm happy with, I can see now why I stuck to using Scalescenes for so long, I just can't paint brickwork.

 

The desk is covered with dozens of little laser cut test sheds which are going to end up in the bin very soon at this rate.

 

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I've tried painting a brick colour in Enamel and using an Acrylic to run the mortar into the cracks. I've tried painting the whole building in a mortar colour and then painting the bricks using a sponge pad. I'm incapable of picking out individual bricks i just end up with painty blobs and I don't seem to be able to get enough of the 'mortar wash' off the surface of the bricks (using water or IPA) to bring it back to a decent colour.

 

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I'll admit to feeling right royally hacked off with it.

 

HELP!

 

David

 

edit :- feeling better already

 

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9 Comments


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  • RMweb Gold

The one way that works for me is to paint the brick colour on with enamels, and let it dry nice and hard, a minimum of 48 hours, preferably longer.

 

The mortar is then added using water colour paints from a little jar, where the paint is a kind of slightly soft lump of solid matter, which dissolves into paint when a wet paintbrush is added. I normally mix white with umber and perhaps a bit of grey. The mortar mix is painted on all over the brick surface and allowed to dry. Because it's water-based, it can always be softened and removed with more water. I would never use acrylics for mortar in this way, as they dry too quickly.

 

To remove the mortar from the surface of the bricks, I get a nice, soft white linen handkerchief, wrap part of it around my index finger, and wet it from a pot of clean water. I then dab most of the moisture off the material again, and then using the damp end on my index finger, I wipe away the water-based mortar colour from the top face of the brick work. One thing I will say, is that you pretty much need to move your index finger to a clean part of the handkerchief each time.

 

A clean handkerchief (and, if applicable, an understanding partner!) is essential!

 

I'd add a photo of an example if I could, but I don't know how to do this on other people's blogs, sorry!

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How about the coloured pencil method?

 

It's been published by a member of the EM Gauge Society, if I remember correctly, but consists of base coat of mortar colour followed by applying brick tones using water colour pencils.

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  • RMweb Gold

Personally I don't think you are too far off in the third photo. The mortar on the bricks is in my opinion not a problem but an advantage, because it tones down the red for convincing distance viewing.

 

Captain, to post an image here it has to be already on the web. If it is, then right click the image, click copy, and then go here and paste directly into the comment box.

  • Like 1
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Those buildings looked good to me, shame you knocked them down. I always had trouble with bricks when I did military modelling, not attempted it yet for my railway.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi, thanks to Mikkel, I can now post photos in my reply to your blog entries!

 

Here is a photo of my scratchbuilt shunters cabin, made from Slaters embossed brick plasticard, painted using the methods I described in my earlier post, and using water colours for the mortar. The building is currently far too clean and will eventually get some weathering before being finally positioned on the layout.

 

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  • Like 2
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David i think you are being somwhat too hard on yourself instead of looking at hi res photos  look at your  work from a normal viewing distance

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Can I suggest paint the MDF brick colour red or blue before you laser engrave it as the MDF is light colour and it will stay light or black it should also seal the brick colour along the edges and should make for a better brick shape.

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Yes, the third pic looks pretty good for "neglected" brickwork, i.e. needs a bit of repointing. Which reminds me, our garden wall is in need of some attention... be right back...

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