Leaderboard

As I commented to @Mikkel, following my previous post on this project, this bit of modelling was a spur-of-the-moment idea after a fallow period when I was lacking imagination. It was triggered by a post on @Annie’s thread about modelling one of the B&ER 4-4-0ST engines but now I’m not sure whether this is the prototype I want to model. While thinking about the possibilities, I came across an appraisal of Broad Gauge 4-4-0ST engines in an early issue of the Broad Gauge Society magazine ‘Broadsheet’ [No.17, Spring 1987]. The ‘Broadsheet’ article pointed out that there were 96 of these engines, all derived from a design by Gooch, originally created to meet an urgent operational requirement on the South Devon Railway, following failure of the atmospheric system. The first two engines, built in 1849 set a pattern for all these engines, in that the leading bogies swivelled on a ball-and-socket joint attached to the bottom of the boiler. The boiler provided the only structural link between the cylinders and the main frames, which terminated at the leading coupled wheels, although some later versions had full-length frames. In order to help modellers, the article divided the engines into four main groups, as follows: 1. GWR and SDR ‘Short-tank’ Engines : together with the first two by Gooch, there were 27 engines in this category, from many different builders. These engines remained substantially as built throughout their working lives, except for the addition of weatherboards, modified front foot-plating and, it is believed, circular smokebox doors. SDR ‘Aurora’ 2. SDR ‘Long-tank’ Engines : there were 16 engines, widely known as the ‘Hawk’ class, which were initially hired by the SDR from contractors. In 1866, the SDR purchased all these engines and ordered 6 more from the Avonside Engine Co. These later engines had full-length plate frames. A further 4 engines were built in 1872 and 1875, designed to be convertible to standard gauge, although this was never carried out. Two of these engines actually outlived the Broad Gauge, when they were used to shunt BG stock at the Swindon ‘dump’ until 1893 SDR ‘Hawk’ 3. Bristol & Exeter Engines : There were 26 engines in this group, generally more standardised than the SDR engines. Although attributed to James Pearson, the engines followed the Gooch design quite closely but with full-length main frames and a very long (9’ 2”) coupled wheelbase. Access to the footplate on all except the first six was over the top of the rear driving wheels, by means of a metal step-ladder. B&ER No.71 4. Oddments : The Carmarthen & Cardigan Railway hired 2 engines of this type, which were all eventually sold to the SDR. The C&CR also had two side-tank 4-4-0 engines which were converted to saddle tanks after sale to the SDR. One 4-4-0ST was built for the Llynvi Valley Railway by Slaughter, Gruning & Co., sold to the SDR in 1868, and converted into a six-coupled machine in 1874. The Vale of Neath Railway operated 9 short-tanked locos, very like the 'Corsair/Comet' types, but with neater, straight-bottomed tanks. After considering this ‘Broadsheet’ article in some detail, I moved away from the B&ER engines. There are potential difficulties in modelling the step-ladders, which have to clear the outside crank-pins while, at the same time, the valances of the splashers have to clear inside the coupling rods. Taken together, these present a major challenge to clearances in 4 mm scale. Apart from that significant factor, I also dislike the appearance of these engines with their cramped sheet-iron cabs (although these were later removed by the GWR) On the other hand, I was drawn to the shapely curved sides of the bunker on some of the SDR engines, although some others had straight tops. So, after much deliberation, I decided to have a go at modelling ‘Aurora’ from the SDR ‘Short-tank’ group, precisely because it has so many interesting shapes to challenge my 3D-modelling ability! The main dimensions, as listed in the RCTS booklet were : ‘Aurora’, built Jan 1852 by Longridge & Co, Bedlington wheelbase 17’ 9” (5’ + 5’ 1” + 7’ 8”) coupled wheels 5’ 9” dia bogie wheels 3’ 6” dia boiler barrel 10’ 6” x 4’ 5” dia firebox casing 5’ x 5’ 3” height 14’ 9” boiler pitch 6’ 8” I used the same method that I described in my previous post to extrude the saddle tank from a drawing – this time a pencil sketch by F.J.Roche, reproduced in the ‘Broadsheet article. This drawing was useful for the front elevation but I feel the drawing in Mike Sharman’s compilation by the Oakwood Press is more dependable for the side elevation. I imported the drawing into ‘Fusion 360’ as a ‘canvas’ and then extruded the length of the ‘short-tank’. I added the downward extensions in the central part of the tank by extruding rectangles and then used the ‘fillet’ tool to produce the rounded corners, as visible on the prototype photo above. ‘Aurora’ short-tank extrusion I was especially pleased with the cut-outs since John Brewer, the author of the ‘Broadsheet’ article, commented that: “These earlier engines had short saddle tanks. leaving the firebox uncovered. Most had odd and asymmetrical cut-outs in the lower edges of the tanks, which might almost have been purposely designed to thwart the modeller.” Fortunately, the convenient features of 3D-modelling software came to my rescue! Interestingly, the Longridge-built engines were taken by truck to Gloucester and tried out on the Cheltenham line, so they did fall loosely within the orbit of some of my other BG models, also based in Gloucester. In his article, John Brewer wrote quite a lot about the difficulties to be faced by modellers of the time (1987) in attempting to create one of these engines. Reading his comments made me sincerely grateful for the advances in technology that have provided me with a 3D-printer! John also used an expression regarding these engines that I had to look up: he referred to their 'jolie-laide' character which so endeared these machines to the author. Now that I know what it means, I have to agree I shall continue to construct my model along the lines described in my previous post – assembling the 3D-printed components around a brass tube representing the boiler. I hope to show more progress before too long. Mike

I have been making slow but steady progress. When I started I knew that it would take most of the summer, so I’m happy just pottering on with it all, learning as I go along. A few details. This is the luggage rack assembly, with the mirrored compartment wall. The brackets were a very fancy design, I have simplified them as they are less than 4 mm long. Not difficult in itself, but I have 64 of them to make. Seating is provided in the kit but it is basic and needs a bit of extra work. These are the first class seats. The silhouette cut the armrests and the wings, both trimmed in lace. How many antimacassers? Well, 78 of them. An internal view. The D96 is a nine compartment third. This photo was taken in dark conditions, I wanted to see how the level of lighting looked in practice. As I have mentioned in the past painting and lining is not my strong point. I gave a couple of sides a coat of rattle can, then left them for a few days to really dry. It is “Vauxhall Burgundy Red”. Now experts would tell me that I should be using an airbrush to spray a more accurate shade but there are limitations to what I can do in a flat. I really wasn’t happy about the idea of painting all those panels. Hmm, so I decided to have a go at making lined transfers on white transfer paper. Design was not difficult, but repetitive. I had some “Crafty” brand paper, first print, awful. Ink smeared all over. Second print, worse. So I learned that transfer paper degrades over time. New white transfer paper ordered, “Mister decal paper” brand. Printed well, transfers made and applied to a paint test card. Not bad but I still felt that the white part had too much of a pink tinge from the coach purple underneath. The answer would be to paint the panel white before applying the transfer, but that was what I was trying to avoid. I sat and had a think, what if I just put an identical transfer over the first? I tried it and it worked perfectly, nice white panel with the line round it showing up well. So here is a D 94 composite side as a first example. I am quite pleased with that. I wouldn’t claim that it is as fine as that produced by an expert painter with considerable skill with a lining pen. However I am not one and this method looks the part from normal viewing distances. It is also very fault tolerant. Make a mistake cutting round the transfer, bin it, next one. Realise that a panel is a bit squint, drop of water, adjust it. Having got the techniques sorted out I can push on and do the rest, still a fair amount to do though.

Projects over the summer have included trees. The original inspiration came from the tree-lined perimeters of Reading’s Vastern Road and King’s Meadow goods yards. Vastern Road yard, Reading, 1948. Source: Britain from above. The trees here were quite close to the track along some sections. Earlier photos from the 1900s show larger trees, so they must have been a feature from at least the 1880s. Vastern Road yard, Reading, 1948. Source: Britain from above. Apart from a bit of dabbling ages ago, this was my first real attempt at trees. It does show! But for what it's worth, here's a summary of how I did them. The basic armature was made from Treemendus 0.5 mm wire, cut to 150 mm lengths of which I used 45 per tree for my purposes. Similar wire can be obtained from florists. To form the trees, I used the method suggested by Treemendus, whereby one wire is twisted around others (rather than twisting all wires). This is certainly a quick method, but the outer wire does show. Treemendus recommend using masking tape in order to smooth out the trunk and main branches. This helps, but also adds to the thickness. Accordingly, I may use fewer wires per tree for the next batch. Once done, the armatures were coated in Treemendus bark powder. This can be sanded for a smoother look. For the crown and foliage I diverted from the Treemendus approach and instead used Heki sea foam, each piece glued to the armature with superglue. The pods can be removed, but I didn’t bother as the foliage I used conceals it. The crown was sprayed with a few quick coats of light brown/grey. I used Liquitex, these are low-toxic water based spraypaint for artists. Foliage was added using “coarse turf” from Woodlands scenic. This is the “burnt grass” shade. The foliage was attached using Hob-e-Tac- glue, non-toxic and very sticky. The foliage sticks to the outer reaches of the seafoam, leaving a nice natural branch structure behind it. A coat of Woodlands “scenic cement” was sprayed on to further stick things down. This darkens the foliage somewhat, so I only did one coat. As these are planted urban trees, they needed to be fairly uniform yet individually different. It helped to build them alongside each other. I found that it was possible to make up individual bits of sea-foam twigs and retro-fit them to the trees. That way, any areas that I was unhappy with could be improved. The species is nominally London Plane-ish, although I admittedly concentrated more on just learning the techniques. I did try to indicate the mottled/patchy look of the bark with a paintbrush, but it doesn't show up well and needs more work. The original plan was to have 3-4 trees at the front of the layout. I liked the views beneath the canopy. And the shadow effect when the sun came in through our windows. But from a distance the layout seemed too “front loaded” and forbidding. Trying out various configurations I was struck by how the different positioning of trees can give very different impressions. E.g., compare these two photos: In the end I opted for the arrangement seen below. This gives me street trees but also an open view. It requires an extension of the layout at the back, featuring another road and - you'll be relieved to hear - a backscene. This is currently being built. It's all been an interesting exercise. I will probably keep this first batch of trees for the time being, but have started experimenting with alternative methods, including natural plants. More on that later.

Not much else to add really. First side done and satin varnished. Just got to repeat for the other side....

I have decided to finally have a go at scratch building a loco using a combination of resin castings/3d prints, plasticard and a bit of brass. 3d CAD drawings have been started, looking forward to having a go at building

A break in the rain this evening allowed me to get the Dean Goods painted, Halfords etch primer at lunchtime followed by a coat of their satin black. This was followed by a first pass at weathering, adding a dirty black/brown mix to the frames and footplate and a start to dirtying up the boiler top. It needs transfers (for which I’ve ran out of GWR transfers for the tender) before it can be mat varnished so I can get on with the weathering powders. For the moment it looks a bit odd with dirty mat finish top and bottom and a very shiny boiler side in between I have fitted a Lenz gold in the tender, to get it to fit I ended up hacking away a big chunk of the moulded insides of the tender (hidden by the coal load). The load will eventually get covered with real coal once the weathering is done. Ive ordered nameplates from Narrow Planet (but they may take a while to arrive), so the only other job remaining is sorting out the break linkage on the other side.