Brassey

I've put on my layout thread a pic of Berrington &Eye station building https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/71033-berrington-and-eye-gwrlnwr-joint-line-1912-layout/page/5/which also shows a two colour scheme; the main frames in a lighter colour, possibly white, and the window bars dark. You can see from the upstairs open window at Ford bridge that the glazing bars were also painted dark on the inside.

Don't apply any heat. Apparently superglue can give off deadly fumes if heated! I'd be inclined to leave it. Once painted it probably won't notice as much and it looks pretty central to me. The hinge can give the impression that the door is lopsided. BTW the pipe union on the right hand blower valve doesn't look fully seated home though.

Following discussions elsewhere on the early GWR window bar colours, this is Berrington & Eye in the early 1900's with the bars painted dark, probably chocolate. Having built this building, I'm still cogitating over how to reproduce these delicate windows and am favouring etching.

Mikkel, this is Ford Bridge, two stations down from B&E. Although a joint line, the 2 companies took it in turn over the responsibilities. For the period in question, I believe that the GWR had responsibility for the station buildings whereas the LNWR had control of the track and signaling. I have therefore assumed that the paint scheme and work undertaken on the line was GWR. Certainly this far South the GWR probably had the greater influence. Having said all that, on one of the signal box colours websites it states that the closest modelling paint colour to LNWR "buff" is GWR light stone so it's probably hard to distinguish subtle differences between the two! The responsibility for signaling switched in around 1907. So the wood on the brick box at B&E could have been painted in LNWR buff or GWR light stone but who could tell!. The photo is of Ford Bridge signal box from the same series and the windows on the box are painted white. Fascinating but mind-boggling stuff. Peter

I have the same challenge with my station building. The early photos I have of it and other local stations in the early Edwardian period have them in chocolate. The pic above also seems to have the fence in chocolate or maybe black too.

Not to mention the telegraph pole...

I’ve built an 1501/1854 from a Wills Saddle Tank and Martin Finney 1854 chassis. I also have Gibson 850 and Buffalo saddle tanks in the to do pile.

I tend to build the chassis rigid on the Hobby Holidays jig first. That way I’ve got a better chance of getting it square and the axles parallel. Don’t forget the hole for the beam first. i cut out the horn guides after. We’ve had this discussion before but High Level hornblocks are by far the best use the rods to set the jig for the hornblocks. Obviously need to be jointed

When I did the brakes, I cut off the fret with the hangers and rolled all 6 complete on the fret in one go. Otherwise they are prone to kinking at the holes. I held the wooden blocks in a vice to solder them on individually. All very fiddly p

You may find that once you put the front brake hangers on it’’a hard to get the chassis on behind the guard irons. There’s not much room there

The GWR Duke is now up on its wheels. This is to be 3328 Severn as seen at Hereford. Being one of the last batch, it has a BRO boiler ansd 2500 gal tender. This variant is not catered for in the Finney kit, so a bit of kit mingling/scratch building is required. The 1224 Mashima should fit straight up into the raised firebox.

Hi John, OK. Yes I think they are and that must be a rather old kit. My Brassmasters Experiment class came with the cutouts and instructions prepared for Maygib hornblocks but they weren't included. It also had the cutouts for Studiolith hornblocks which must date back to the 70's. Also not included. I fitted MJT hornblocks but High Level would have done the trick too. I'm thinking of taking the plunge and building my C Class with CSB Peter

John Good to see it coming along including the flangeless axle. Are those Maygib sprung hornblocks? Petet

Here's another in the background that the Peaky Blinders have taken to Walsall:

Sorry just noticed...

Can I ask how you resolved the ride height of the bogie on this build?

How did you resolve the bogie issue on this build? Does the bogie sit on the spring wire?

Despite the lo-tech fixed wheel compensation, the City, 3401 Gibraltar, seems to run ok. Probably aided by the weight of the whitemetal boiler.

LNWR tender engines were not prone to running tender first which presumably is why the bufferbeam on the tender was not painted red but black.

Herewith chassis progress for my Finney GWR Duke. As stated before, the twin beams are retained by tabs through the frames. No too convinced of the longevity of this solution but time will tell. There's just enough room in P4 to get a High Level RoadRunner gearbox between now. Next, do they same on my Finney GWR City: The beams sit just below the footplate.

I've seen some of David's rakes in the flesh and excellent his carriages are too. Shame they were running on the OO Dewsbury layout and not LNWR metals.

Just starting but I have all the components

At some stage I concluded to move it to the loft which was always the initial plan. That would require min radius curves of 4ft to make it work as a roundy. For that reason the LNWR Experiment leapfrogged other builds as, being the largest loco I plan to build, it might be the most challenging to get round the corners. For the same reason my C Class 0-8-0 is now also on the workbench. I had planned to add a scenic extension but might, in the end, move the layout into another bedroom as an end to end. Either way, I need to do work that will be a lot easier when it is dismantled rather than shoehorned tight into a corner as now. Such things as cosmetic chairs… I also plan to replace the boundary with hedging rather than fences as per prototype. Don’t hold your breath for any action anytime soon.

I think I soaked mine in Dettol solution to remove the paint and that loosened the glue enough to pull it apart. It then spent another few years pinned to a board to straighten the footplate out

I’ve left things to soak literally for years. This is a long term hobby after all.