John ks

One of the features is “Easy conversion to Kadee-compatiable knuckle couplers” I thought this meant using the NEM pocket At ont point in time I noticed the area between the kinematic pocket & the under frame had a flat area with a small hole. This area looked to be the correct size to fit a Kadee 242, #5 with ears cut off or 262 narrow coupling boxes Mounting Kadees in this area puts them at OO scale height which is higher than Kadee recommends for HO scale To fit the kadee the middle part of the buffer beam needed to be removed I tapped the existing hole to 2mm trimmed the back off a 262 coupler box, fitted a long scale head whisker (#158) coupling If you remove the kinematic mechanism you wont have to trim the rear of the coupling box. Leaving the kinematic mechanism makes it easy to change back your favourite NEM coupling. Some pictures of the coaches coupled to each other and a Hornby Mk1 and an APT They don't couple as close as kinematic couplings but are close enough & go around my tightest curves without buffer lock

Checked the web site 1/2Hrs ago & the RTC set was in stock Got one set My Account on the Web site shows the price as £247.00 but the invoice shows the price as $247.00 Seems there is a glitch in the system.

I think I learned to mirror image the of the underside of the PCB from Bigclivedotcom SHMD did a much better job with the circuit & explanation. John

I agree with the previous posters that the circuit suggests a CDU Baring mistakes the circuit is below My best guess on how it works is. TB1 is the input voltage, could be AC or DC, If DC positive must be on the D1 side & D1 acts as a reverse voltage protection, if AC then D1 acts as a 1/2 wave rectifier. R1 & Q1 are there to reduce the inrush current when C1,C2,C4,C5 are charged. C3 will be charger directly via R1 When a point is thrown C1,C2,C4,C5 are discharged via D2 & C3 is discharger directly. Why C3 is wired like it is beyond me. If there is a back EMF from the coil then D2 & D3 will protect the circuit TB2 is the output John

I had a look at the switches & if I understand correctly then these circuits should work. If I understand correctly then there are internal resistors for the LEDs the circuit shows the frog wiring which can be deleted if required. The LEDs are controlled by the switch in the Tortise Circuit on the left requires a DC12V & a AC12V power supply. The circuit on the right requires a more complex +12v,0V,-12V power supply. I believe DCC Concepts make a +12v,0V,-12V power supply. If the LEDs are out of sync with the point, then change the green & orange wires at the tortise If the frog polarity is out of sync with the point, then change the Red & Grey wires at the tortise Hope this helps. John

Another unusual was a Burlington Northern SDP40 which operated for about year with the rear truck replaced by an experimental EMD "B+B" 4-axle radial bogie. They removed the centre motor from the front bogie making the loco an A1A-BoBo. The rear bogies were made by cutting & shorting 2 Co bogies to convert them to Bo bogies. I think the reason making the Co into an A1A was so that the loco had 6 traction motors as it originally did, which would simplify the wiring by only powering 6 traction motors rather than 7. John

This is QR 3205 during a test run. It was parked on a siding at Kuraby Station. the curve was one of the sharpest in Qld & has since been removed. This shows the centre bogie partially outside the loco body. the springs usually sit vertically on straight track. This is 3283 still at Comeng where it was being built, only 3 more were built after this one Comeng Queensland ceased to be after the last Loco was done. As to why Tri-Bo was chosen, it may have been to spread the axel loading. These Locos were primarily used to haul coal from the mines to the port at Hay Point Qld John

If the decoder is connected to track power, and there is a resistance directly across its motor (i.e. brush) output terminals, then how is it not connected? Edited 3 hours ago by SRman The first drawing won't work & is what Butler is saying in image form The second image showing the L1 & L2 terminals linked & should work. Image 3 shows an alternative connection for the resistor. When I first read the original post, I read it be connected like image 1 & in that case Butler would be correct. Upon further reading I understood the resistor to be connected directly to the decoder & if that is the way SRman understood it, then SRman is correct. Thats my opinion, for what it's worth. John Edit the images were originally posted by Marcus-Jay

Ordered mine in Dec 2019 & an hour ago I got the email that it's on its way.

My Caroline has not been sent yet, should I start to panic? Edit, no need to panic, their on their way as of 6 sept, I also have 4 nukes on order that haven't been sent. I asked if these orders could be combined & both orders have a note "Combine with -07-- if possible". I have sent emails to Revolution, which have been unanswered. John

I have converted some Hornby wagons to Accurascale magnetic chain couplings. I cut the chain on the magnetic coupling which left the magnet, a split link & 3 full links. I tried to place the last link over the existing hook but found this too fiddley. I replaced the Hornby hook with one bent from Nickle silver wire. (see Photos). Remove 2 screws to separate the body from the chassis which will require a bit of force as they are clipped together fairly tightly. Bend the new hook, the exact length is not critical, but should be long enough to reach to where there is enough plastic for a hole. (You may notice that the hooks in the photo are different lengths. the one on the left could have been a bit longer & the one on the right a bit shorter.) Test fit the new hook, mark & drill a hole for the bent end of the hook. Feed the last loop of the coupling over the wire hook then feed the wire through the buffer beam & pust the bend into the hole, a little super glue to hold the wire in place until the body & chassis are rejoined. There are flanges on the body underside that may need trimming to clear the wire. Hope this helps. John

My 2cents worth If the voltage across the capacitor exceeds its rated voltage, then you risk destroying the capacitor. With three 3V capacitors in series a Zener less than 9V less should be used, the 8.2V zener would be ideal In option 2 if you left the 15V Zener in the circuit then the voltage across each capacitor would have been 15V/3capicators = 5v per capacitor which is way outside their specification A fourth option would be to increase the value of the resistor, you could try 200 ohms. The downside to this option it the charge time would be increased Th startup current would reduce from 0.15A to 0.075A & power from 2.25W to 1.125W When the pack is fully charged the power used by the resistor will halve to 0.245W John

Do you mean something like this This power car has been repowered using Heljan bogies & chassis made from brass bars. Like the retooled APT the chassis is not connected to the body and the body tilts around the chassis. John

You could use relays controlled by points The drawing shows how this could be done John

Does this version have a switch on the underside of the controller, if so, is it on? From what I can see on the photos the AC comes in goes through a Fuse (LP 60 )(the largish yellow disc near the knob.) to the 4 diodes (full wave rectifier) to 2 large capacitors that smooth the DC from the rectifier The voltage at the AC input socket should be about 16V AC Depending on the power supply If the voltage across the Fuse(LP60)Measured between points A & B is greater than 0V then the fuse has probably failed The voltage across the rectifier should be 16V AC on the input side & 16-20V DC on the DC side The voltage across the large blue capacitors should be the same as the output side of the rectifier The solder joints on the diodes don’t look perfect If the AC voltage is good but the DC voltage is a lot lower than 16-20V then the diodes may be faulty or they may need resoldering The rest of the circuit is above my pay grade. John