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Showing results for 'agenoria 1366' in content posted in 7mm+ modelling.
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So this is the kit I've avoiding. Lots of shiny shiny metal. It looks great and many folk on here rate the Agenoria kits, so that's good. I have, however, never built a 7mm loco before and the attempts I had in 4mm were only suitable for the bin or to use as narrow boat ballast weights. Hopefully starting a thread, asking stupid questions and making a start will encourage me to crack on a make something that actually looks like the image on the box and runs! Help along the way will be appreciated.1566 NOTES TO OTHERS CONSIDERING THIS KIT (28-09-14): Below are a summary of my findings and thoughts on the kit based on it nearing completion after three months of work. This is my first 7mm loco kit and my opinions will probably not match those with greater kit building experience. The comments below are intended not to put off people from buying the kit (it's probably still the best option if you want this loco) but to enable an informed decision to be made. General The etched parts come in Nickel Silver and are crisply formed, with pairs of parts and overlays matching very well. I found the NS is much nicer to work with than brass. The castings are lost wax brass and come attached to their casting sprues. Before you start or buy the kit: 1. Check you have all the parts. My kit had some missing. This includes the castings on the lost wax brass sprues and the bearings screws and washers. 2. Check the quality of the castings. My chimney was oval and the buffer shanks had holes in the sides. 3. With hindsight I wouldn't buy the kit with a motor and gearbox. It may be me but I felt the mesh and noise from those supplied were poor. 4. Note that the instructions state that "the cab fittings and pipes are generic Agenoria , if you want an exact representation of the fittings and backhead detail, you will need to research this yourself". If you aren't bothered by accuracy then the kit will be fine, if you are then you'll need to do some work. 5. IMO the boiler castings could be better. The dome appears to be too small and has casting lines. The safety valve cover is crude compared to others from, say, Laurie Griffin. The tank fillers are completely the wrong type (they should be oval) and are crude. The chimney supplied was misshapen. 6. For a small class the locos had lots of variations between them. Choose a loco and then work from photos when applying detail like steps, rails and pipes. I recommend getting a copy of the Pannier Papers book covering the 1366 class. Diagram 1 - the Chassis The main chassis is bent up from a single etch into a U shape with spacers fixed between. The axle / bearing locations were accurate and everything fitted well. Notes: 1. Part 3, the compensation beams, are designed to be fixed by a screw and bolt. I tried this but found there was too much slop (for, aft, up down) between the hole in the beam and the screw thread. It was also difficult to adjust the tightness of the bolt without either having the beam too loose or too tight. The instructions tell you to insert the bearings through the frames and then solder them to the compensation beams. This means they are fixed for good. Following advice on here I inserted the bearings from behind which means that the units are removeable and adjustments can easily be made. 2. Part 14, the motion brackets, sit too high up the frames and are not inclined. I adjusted the tab and slot so that they sat lower and leant forward at the base like the real loco. When I fitted the slide bars I also found that these were held too far away from the frames at the bracket end. This may be intentional to give clearance but looks wrong. This required the part of the motion bracket next to the frames to be thinned down. 3. Part 13, the slide bars, these are etched in pairs with spacers to aid accurate soldering. Once soldered up remove the spacers as they hold the slide bars too close together to enable the crosshead to fit (even if the crosshead grooves are deepened). 4. Part 10, the cylinder former, fold up nicely but, if I were starting again I'd put the small hole next to the slidebars / crosshead. As designed the crosshead flopped around in a very large hole. Part 12 and casting 100 don't address this and so I inserted some brass tube to provide a guide. The casings should be inclined when fixed to the frames, nearly touching the top of the frames at the upper-front corner and roughly following the slope on the underside of the frames. The cylinder casings are designed to be bolted to the frames - great idea as this helps finetuning the chassis and painting. Fixing with one screw and bolt allows these to move and drift, I added a second pin to aid location. 5. The hatched area marked up as potentially needing removal is fine with the supplied gearbox and motor. The section of the top spacer shown folded down slightly should be completely removed however. Best do this before bending and soldering up the frames. 6. Fix parts 16 and castings 103 at the end - they will get in the way! Diagram 2 - the Chassis continued... 1. As above, fix parts 16 right at the end. 2. Fix the crosshead vacuum pump assembly (parts 26, 27 and 104) right at the end - they will get in the way when you're removing and replacing the wheels countless times! 3. The cylinder wrappers (part 21) are too narrow and only just fit on the former. I added some packing to the inside of the cylinder casing former to give something to fix too. 4. The kit makes no provision for the large sand boxes which should be located behind the rear cab steps and instructs that you simply fix a length of brass wire to the frames. This is an omission IMO. Diagram 3 - the footplate... 1. All the major parts (28, 29, 31, 32, 33 and 34 fit well together although it is easy to mix up the similar but different buffer beam etches when they are cut out! 2. I fitted parts 30 and 36 early on but left the remainder of the castings and etched details until much later. 3. The rear cab step etches are well designed and go together well. 4. The front RHS step (parts 40 and 41) is best fixed to the frames rather than the footplate. 5. Some locos had two toolboxes (casting 113), the kit supplies one but the second can be requested. 6. I felt that the toolboxes (casting 113) and from sandboxes (casting 108) were quite crude. I will be making up replacement sandboxes and obtaining better castings for the toolboxes. Diagram 4 - the cab... I had some real issues here with parts not being the correct size. it may have been me but I can't see how / why some of the parts can be different widths. 1. Note that IMO, and when compared to drawings and photos, the half-etched outline of the tank in the cab front is too high. 2. The curve in the top of the cab sides is best formed when part 43 is still flat. 3. The cab bunker rear (part 47) is wider than the front of the cab and indeed the cab rear sheet (part 48). 4. Part 46 (bunker top beading) is also much wider than the cab and needs a section taking out of its width. 5. I used the narrowed part 46 to set the location and radius of the curves in the top of the bunker rear. This did result in a section of part 43 (from the two bits that form the upper part of the bunker rear) needing to be removed. The resultant cab unit (set to the width of the cab front and rear sheet (part 48) is marginally too narrow for the tabs in its base to engage with the slots in the footplate. The slots for the the rear sheet tabs are nowhere near where they need to be. I cut the majority of the tabs off. 6. Part 46 (cab floor) is not required as it looks nothing like the profile of the floor of the real loco. It raises the floor above the bottom of the cab doors, blocks the bottom of the firebox opening door and has holes for the cast parts in the wrong place. Refer to photos of the real thing! 7. It's a mystery why parts 53 (smokebox wrappers) are fitted free form to the footplate. As etched they are designed to fit between part 60 (smokebox rear which is also fixed to the footplate) and parts 61&62 (smokebox front laminations, which are fixed to the tank assembly). If you want to maintain access to the tank void for adding weight or DCC electro gubbins, then the assembly sequence doesn't help by giving you a sealed box. This could be much better thought out and I modified my loco to come to pieces and maintain access to the tank void. 8. The cab roof (part 49) has a nice curved join with the rolled over cab sides. This makes a join in a removeable roof not easy to disguise (certainly beyond my skills). I opted to solder the roof on and maintain access to the cab interior by making the cab / tank assembly removeable from the footplate. 9. The bunker rear (part 47) should have a curved interface between it and the cab sides. The instructions advise to use a good fillet of solder on the inside join and then file the curve in. I've inserted a square section of brass into the corner and then filed this to a curve. 10. The biggest issue for me with this stage is that the parts and instruction diagram provided for you make up a non-prototypical backhead and cab interior for the loco. The etched backhead profile (part 83) is the wrong profile, should have larger radius corners at the top and has holes in the wrong places to fit incorrect castings. Why, why, why? One of the locos is preserved and surely it wouldn't be beyond Agenoria to provide the correct parts and provide sketches showing where these should go. Is this just laziness?? Diagram 5 - the Tank Assembly... It was this stage that almost have me abandon the kit. Without doubt forming the tanks has proven to be the most significant challenge of the build so far, not assisted by the main tank wrapper (part 65) being supplied partly preformed. Helpful? Well no, not if the bends are in the wring place and to the wrong radius. Another 'helpful' feature that proved otherwise was the half etched lines put in to help form the lower tank radiused bends. These turned out to be etched in the wrong place. Other notes: 1. The instructions tell you to punch out all the rivet detail in the tank wrapper (part 65). DO NOT DO THIS. The tanks on the real loco are not riveted. 2. As already stated it is my belief, when comparing the tank and cab interface with drawings and photos, that the half etched tank outline is set too high and needs lowering. Thankfully several of the parts below the tank (parts 36 and 60) already suit the lower level and there would otherwise be a gap between the tank underside and these parts. The tank / smokebox front (parts 61 and 62) suit the higher tank mounting height and need to be reduced. The boiler underside (part 69 which is thoughtfully pre-rolled) also suits the higher tank mounting level (perhaps plus a bit). I've cut a gap in the underside of the tank so that the the boiler underside fits up and within the tank underside. That all done the tank will sit at what I think is the correct level. 3. Tank filler castings (part 123) are not correct for this loco. They are round and should be oval. They are also quite crude compared to castings available from others. Two types of tank breather valve (part 121) are thoughtfully provided check which one suits your chosen loco.[ 4. The less said about the quality and fidelity of the chimney (part 117), dome (part 118) and safety valve cover (parts 119 and 120) the better. I've sourced alternatives. 5. Tank lifting mounts (parts 122) are reasonable but the front pair are shown on the diagram to be orientated incorrectly. They need rotating through 180 degrees.[ 6. Sandbox fillers (part 124) should not be fitted to the shelf in the cab sheet rear. The rear loco has them just inside the cab door opening on the floor. Likewise a small casting (part 125) and the bit of bent 0.7mm wire should not be fitted - there's no sign of them on the rear loco. 7. The real loco has the handbrake (part 114) on the fireman's side and this is set into the cab rear sheet. A semi-circular box should be visible in the bunker. This is not accounted for in the kit and the instructions tell you to place the handbrake on the wrong side. Diagram 6 - the Finishings I've still lots of smaller bits from the earlier stages to complete yet but there's a few bits from the final diagram that I can comment on so far: 1. The tank top braces (parts 75, 76 and 77) make up nicely and locate well in the tank top slot. Note , however, that the front brace should be much shorter on most (all?) locos and this needs to be trimmed down. 2. The balance pipe cast (part 126) doesn't appear to match the shape of the item on the real loco and, as cast, is wider than the holes in the tank undersides into which it should fit. I believe though that it is the holes that are wrong in this case. I'll be forming this pipe from some thick copper wire instead of using the casting. Conclusions Overall the kit is producing a nice looking model of a distinctive prototype. It has, however, required much more work to produce than i was expecting from a newly available kit from a supplier with a good reputation. I'm aware that a test build has been done as there's a finished model on the Agenoria stand BUT I'm amazed that this didn't highlight any or all of the issues reported above. Did the builder not feedback? Does the manufacturer not care? At the very least additional notes in the instructions should have been made. In my view the following should be corrected: 1. Bring consistency to the widths of the three main cab bulkheads and adjust part 46 to suit. 2. TBC
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Hi Amanda, The 1366 pannier tank is available from several manufacturers. Ragstone models market the 1366 previously sold by Agenoria http://www.ragstonemodels.co.uk/agenoria.html There was a thread about building this kit on here a little while ago but, IIRC, the builder had a few problems with it https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/search/&q=agenoria 1366&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=89 CRT models do/did a 1366 kit and sells them RTR https://www.crtkits.co.uk/index.php/2/71351/ As regards the long RCH buffers would Slater's B.R. ones from the 12T van do? Hope this helps. Ray.
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Pencarrow - A Cornish odyssey set on the former LSWR lines around Bodmin. 1. Intro It has occurred to me that since originally creating this thread back in March 2013, my thoughts and ideas have moved on somewhat. Back then the idea was a layout with a 12' scenic section as shown in Part 2 below. The move to 7mm was spurred on by Dapol's (since cancelled) Beattie Well Tank and a number of threads on here showing others progressing well in the 'senior scale', such as David Siddall's 'first tentative steps' thread. My outline ideas for a layout were inspired by Gordon Gravett's 7mm Modelling books. Between then and February 2014 we arrived at the plan below, which has a 9' scenic section: 2. Track Plans First Stab AnyRail Track Plan Martin Wynne's Templot Track Plan (thanks Martin) A re-think on the length of the layout. And a swap in the handing. A transfer to Templot. An overlay with the revised AnyRail plan showing some changes. Key features. 3. Stock Building (Plastic) The start of wagon building, wagon progress update #1, Bill Bishop talks about coachng stock 25T Pill Box Brake Issues...ooops!, 25T Pill Box planking mods LNER Toads on the line Thinking about suitable wagon stock Paul throws a LSWR brake into the pot Some more modelling at last - Parkside 12T LMS Open Wagon compensation Rob has another go at getting me to join the dark side (WR) Weight of wagons Chat on couplings (also an off-thread discussion about Lincs couplings) 4. Stock Building (Brass) In July 2014, suitably encouraged (pushed and abused) by various folk on here, I made a start on building my first every brass (well NS) kit. In the absence of a suitable (accurate and available) kit for a Beattie Well Tank, I decided to go instead for a kit of the loco that replaced them on the B&W - the GWR 1366 Dock Tank produced by Agenoria. The build is covered by a separate thread here. It's been a massive learning curve for me but here are a few photos of the key stages so far: Having reached an impasse with the 1366, and having received a second loco kit for Christmas 2014, I decided to have a go at my Connoisseur LSWR Adams O2 0-4-4T. This has been an all together different building experience and a pleasure so far. The build thread is here. And this is where I'm up to as of the start of April 2015. So very nice to build something that's been well thought out, where all the bits fit and the cast parts are of a good quality. 5. Track Building In early February 2014 I thought I'd finally bite the bullet and have a go at track building. After a fair amount of reading around the pros and cons of 7mm standards I decided to go for 31.5mm and bought some lovely gauges from Deb's of this parish. A few progress shots are included below: As of February 2014 the second point was started and attention turned to finding out more about the sleeper spacings on plain track panels. Much of the discussion was held off-thread in the LSWR Sleeper Spacings discussion. But in addition Old Gringo posted a few observations on the track around Bodmin (Old Gringo talks about track panels) in this thread. This was later followed up by more discussion on panel lengths and sleeper spacings here. Out of interest, the image below shows a comparison on Templot of 4 different configurations of track panel used by the LSWR / SR: The data used to generate these panels in Templot is in the PDF below: SR Plain Track Sleeper Spacings V2.pdf In March 2013 there was a mass chair trim - 600 done in 2 hours! 6. Signalling The image below includes the whole of the layout's trackplan, including the imaginary off-scene closure of the loop. I know nowt about working out how a trackplan would be signalled and controlled and so I asked for a few points as per the questions on the image. I've had lots of support in devising the first drafts of the signalling plans and the ones below are drawn up from the fantastic details provided by Mike (StationMaster): Thanks to Paul Cambridge I've now got the plan below to stock inside the signal box (when I've built it) and to hang on the wall... Cheers to Mike and Paul for all their assistance. 7. Scenic Treatment and Inspiration A summary of the ideas I have for scenic treatment and the prototype structures that could appear on the layout. Some discussion here. 8. Buildings My 7mm cheat sheet Building the 'Wenford Bridge Goods Depot', the fag packet sketch, coming together, the roof goes on, May 2014 saw mock ups of all the major buildings being made. The station building will be based on the Colonel Stephens one at Calstock. Since that has long gone, instead I'm using details of Bodiam on the KESR (another Col Stephens jobbie). Here's the mock up: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69736-pencarrow-bridge-boards-completed-pg59-post-1465/?p=1453401 9. Baseboard Construction Stubby starts off talk of baseboard construction March 2014 saw the board construction cutting list planned. Board 1 done http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69736-pencarrow-bridge-boards-completed-pg59-post-1465/?p=1384598 Board 2 completed http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69736-pencarrow-bridge-boards-completed-pg59-post-1465/?p=1439846 April 2014 and the three main boards were completed! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69736-pencarrow-bridge-boards-completed-pg59-post-1465/?p=1441440 And placed up in the train room. 10. Useful External Links Gauge O Guild Traders page AC Stadden Figures Agenoria Loco Kits (AM62 GWR 1366) Connoisseur kits (LSWR 24T Brake, Queen Mary Brake, other wagons, LSWR G6 and LSWR O2) CRT Loco and coach kits (1366 and Bulleid coaches) Laurie Griffin Minatures (Adams Radial, O2 and T9) Martin Finney (Adams Radial and T9) Meteor Models (LSWR O2 and LBSCR E1R) Modern Outline (Q1!) Omen Figures Pete Armstrong 'Heroes of the Footplate' figures Phoenix (SandD) figures and vehicles Purple Primer figure painting Railtec Transfers (O13 Clay, PO WOpen Wagons) Roxey Mouldings (G6, Adams Radial, O2, Beattie Well Tank) South West Digital DCC Sound Scorpio Kits (GWR 8750 and B Set) WEP Models, brass wagon kits (Going to need a few of their CM34 GWR O13 Clay wagons)
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Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge
2ManySpams replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
The really daft thing is that the Agenoria instructions include a copy of Iain Rice's 1366 drawing. Even though Agenoria had the right info they still produced incorrect etches. -
I thought it would be worthwhile starting a thread for my second 7mm loco build. It won't be started until after Christmas (the kit has been confiscated and sent off to Santa) but there's thoughts and information being gathered that needs to go somewhere. So what will we be building this time? It's a new kit from Jim's Connoisseur range: a LSWR Adams O2 0-4-4 tank. I can't show you photos of the kit contents yet as I don't have it, but here's one of the finished model from Jim's Website. Learning from the Agenoria build I did check that all the parts were present and correct before it disappeared to Lapland. First impressions are that the castings, although of the softer whitemetal, are clean, crisp and appropriate to the loco being modelled. I've not had chance to check the dimensions of the chimney and dome but I do know that Laurie Griffin produces any and all fittings. The instructions can be downloaded off Jim's Website and are exemplary. Other manufacturers take note. Chassis instructions download. Body instructions download. Looking forward to this one and hoping that it will be less problematic than the 1366. Update 26th December 2014. The kit has been received, wrapped in festive paper. So we can now have a look at the contents: The box (pity it's not big enough to hold the completed loco). Opening the lid reveals the destructions and lots of packing to keep the contents safe. Under all the packing we find all the castings and the pre-rolled boiler. Lifting the next layer of tissue paper we see the various wires etc The first of the brass etches. There's two of these, left and right handed: The final etch. The big bit missing is the pre-rolled boiler. And finally the NS chassis etch sheet. All looks very promising.
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Was thinking earlier how much more well thought out this kit is than the Agenoria 1366 I've been tackling for some years. Seems to have all the right detail in all the right places and parts that fit too. Shouldn't be allowed.
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Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge
2ManySpams replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
I recall folk saying earlier in this thread that the earlier numbered kits were significantly better than the later ones designed by the current owner. I have nothing to measure this against as I've not tried an earlier numbered kit. I can contrast my experience with the Agenoria and Connoisseur kits though and they are like chalk and cheese. All I'll say is that I'd be happy building another of Jim's kits. It seems very harsh but I have little sympathy for the termination of this range following my experience with the 1366. The kit wasn't cheap. The castings were poor and not generally appropriate to this prototype. The etchings were not always the correct size or consistent with each other. For me not a fantastic introduction to 7mm loco building. I know others managed fine with some of the earlier kits and rated them highly but I also know from discussions with other modellers that I wasn't alone in not being impressed with other (later) kits. I'm pleased for you though if you had a good experience with the Agenoria kits you built. -
Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge
2ManySpams replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
Thanks you for your comments Adam. You're a prolific kit builder and your observations carry a lot of weight. It's been mentioned previously that Agenoria production / kit design has changed hands and that the newer kits don't seem a patch on the earlier ones. This is a big pity as the kit is so nearly great in so many areas but a lack of thought, attention to detail and some poor/inappropriate castings have let the side down. I think to a degree the new owner may be trading on the superb reputation of the original. It will be interesting to see how this lasts if all the newer kits have similar issues. I never intended this to be anything more than a lowly build thread but it's noticeable that this thread and photos come up at the high end of results when doing a Google search on Agenoria 1366. As such I'm trying to make the comments about the kit as balanced as possible so that others can take their own view on the kit. I acknowledge that we all have different ways of working and skills and therefore the problems I've had may be trivial to others. I'm determined to make it turns out OK but it has certainly challenged me and been a far steeper learning curve than I was expecting as a first build. That said, had it been straight forward would I have learned so much? Good to have your interest. Love the 08 roof by the way! -
Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge
Simond replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
Chris It will be interesting to see what Agenoria have to say - I imagine that given the details of your build on here, they will withdraw the kit and remaster it. Or sell the remaining stock off cheap. If you wanted to buy a kit of this loco, and you had Googled "1366 pannier tank 0 gauge" you would probably find, and read, this thread, along with the adverts for Agenoria and CRT. Having read it, would you subsequently consider buying one, unless you were a masochist? In addition to my previous thoughts, and again relevant to the "future of 0 gauge" thread, this kind of detailed analysis of a model will either "improve the breed" or consign low quality kits to the remainder heap. My fear is that, given the difficulties faced by small traders, it may actually tend to reduce the range of kits available to the modeller. If so, that would be a shame. And, no, I do not believe that your build is "somehow wrong". Following with interest... Simon -
Thanks Chaz. The brake was a joint first brass kit along with a WEP clay wagon. I started the clay, completed the brake and then finished the clay. Both taught me there's nothing to be scared of from having a go at a brass kit (or two). They were both well thought out and accurately etched kits. The clay was a challenge as it involved building up multiple layers of brass. The confidence has taken a bit of a battering tackling my first metal loco kit. The problem hasn't been the soldering though but overcoming ill fitting, inaccurate and poor quality parts. The other challenge has been forming some of the more complex shapes prior to soldering. I'm having a timeout with it at the moment but here's the current state of my Agenoria 1366 tank. The mojo is returning on the 1366...but I may start the 02...it would be rude not to! Sorry for the hijack but the message to Brianthesnail is to give it a go...he may well be quite surprised how easy it is to pick up.
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Pencarrow: nothing to see, move along please.
2ManySpams replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
Having had a temporary reprieve from the loonie bin, I've been thinking about the very long term stock wishlist for this layout and its potential source. Locos: A Beattie Well Tank is an absolute must for this layout. As far as I know the only kit in production is by Roxey but this seems to my eyes to be a bit compromised in places. Laurie Griffin has the old Shedmaster version on his books but I understand he's not happy with the chassis and so only sells the body etched at present. The best option may be to repatriate Paul and/or Peter's examples...otherwise this is going to be a long-term wait and see loco choice. Next we have a LSWR O2. Until recently the choice was between various versions that all had issues or dimensional problems. Thankfully Jim at Connoisseur has come to the rescue with a new kit to his range. I accidentally bought one at Telford show and so this will be next year's project. With a BWT a long-term proposition, the obvious alternative for the mineral line was a GWR 1366 dock tank. They took over from the BWTs in real life. I bought one of these kits from Agenoria at the Kettering show this year and the loco is now under construction on a separate thread. I may be a while with this! For the later period there's the new JLTRT kit for the Class 22 and the RTR AC Railbus produced by Heljan. The 22 would involve new skills sets for me as it will require working with resin and producing working powered bogies. The railbus involves Just opened a box which, after the joys of the 1366 build, has a certain attraction! Post O2 and pre Class 22 the real SR Bodmin lines were taken over by the Ivatt 2-6-2 tanks. A good looking small tank with wide appeal that would be ideal for Ixion ;-p. Kits appear to be produced by ACME and DJH, of which I have no idea of the relative pros and cons. Any views folks? We then turn to the very long term nice to have some day list... David Andrews does a N Class and Laurie Griffin does a T9. Both are really to big for Pencarrow but I do like these classes and they were regulars on the nearby NCR. The N Class also worked to Bodmin North... And finally, the major elephant in the room is a Bulleid airsmoothed light pacific. Way too big but there's rule 1.... -
Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge
Simond replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
Chris Thanks for that. After prolonged research (read "using Google") I discovered that Majestic Models are a casting agency based in Chester and have some lovely prototype photos on their website. More relevantly, a range of 7mm kits produced by George Dawson, which, when he retired, appear to have been split between 62C models, Connoisseur models, and Dragon models, possibly others too, as I can't find reference to the 1361. http://62cmodels.com http://www.jimmcgeown.com/0%20Gauge%20Locomotives.html http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/sr-low-mach.2236/ http://www.dragonmodelswales.co.uk/index.php, Quick check on the GOG traders directory shows a 1366 kit available from ABS models / Wrightlines, and 1361 & 1366 kits from both Agenoria and CRT. Kemilway apparently do a set of etchings (but this only appears to be available in 4mm on their website) Premier do milled chassis & rods. CRT & Tower offer RTR, as does a company I'd never heard of, RPM models, of Oldham. If Nigel wants to sell his kit, please PM me Best Simon -
Many thanks Chaz - think I'd better start a new thread for building the 1366. I see lots of 'how do I' type questions coming up for the collective! Edit: In fact I've done just that: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/87758-agenoria-wr-1366-pannier-for-pencarrow-bridge/
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Pencarrow: nothing to see, move along please.
2ManySpams replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
Attended the Gauge O Guild event at Telford today. Had a good chat with Nick from the technical committee and all half the Finney7 brigade. Parts bought from a wide variety of traders to complete my Agenoria 1366. New frames from Premier Components, horn blocks from Finney7 (and a very neat compensation idea which I'll be borrowing), and a selection of castings from Warren Shephard and Laurie Griffin. Was hoping to get 1368 number plates from Severn Mill but they weren't there. Very impressed with the Finney7 team and the Bulleid Light Pacific build. -
Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge
2ManySpams replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
For some inexplicable reason I didn't much feel like working on the 1366 today. I had two abortive attempts at making a box shape for a new sandbox yesterday (before beer). It didn't go very well and the one that was OK I bu99ered up with the file. These two are on the mat in front of the loco below. This afternoon I've felt slightly more focused and had a light bulb moment. Use some square box section, two bits side by side, and plate round it. This worked nicely and can be seen on the front of the loco to the left of the wrong Agenoria casting.
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Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge
daifly replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
If you go back a couple of years(!) in this thread there was a discussion on the origins of this kit http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/87758-agenoria-wr-1366-pannier-for-pencarrow-bridge/page-42&do=findComment&comment=1635789 Dave -
Pencarrow: nothing to see, move along please.
gwrrob replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
All good practice for finishing the Agenoria 1366 kit... -
Pencarrow: nothing to see, move along please.
2ManySpams replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
I keep looking at the 1366 on their site but would like to see one in the flesh first as I've seen mixed reviews. The example 1366 that Agenoria had on their stand at Telford was absolutely beautiful though. -
Pencarrow: nothing to see, move along please.
2ManySpams replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
Agenoria had a 1366 tank at Telford but this now seems to be on the production list for 2015 on their website (and they appear to have the 1361 and 1366 images transposed). That would give me 12 months to practice on other, less complex, stuff. Unfortunately I can't make the Bristol show, so it looks like I'll be trying for Kettering. -
Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge
81A Oldoak replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
I have built three of the original Stamper Agenoria kits and was very pleased with them. I have another in stock waiting to be built. It is a shame that the original kits will no longer be available, but this painfil account of the construction of the 1366 is not a good advertisement. -
The Agenoria 1366 was announced years ago - I was going to get one, but fortunately saw your 1361 thread before I sold my CRT kit! The CRT kit awaits my pleasure, the Guilplates, motor, wheels & Premier rods are all in the box. I'm merely awaiting some kind soul preparing a decent sound project (Pauliebanger, are you listening? ) on a Zimo 645, and a free weekend or two... Best Simon
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Apparently Agenoria are bringing out a 1366 kit too... (no joke, the announcement is on the same page)
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Not necessarily so. My first was a Connoisseur J50, which went well followed by a Wallsall Models J52 which was pretty dreadful. I suspect the O2 is just a very much better kit than the Agenoria 1366 and shows it up. Yes, Chris?
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Pencarrow: nothing to see, move along please.
2ManySpams replied to 2ManySpams's topic in 7mm+ modelling
Minor update...current status of my three brass kits: At the front we have an Agenoria GWR 1366 Dock Tank, followed by a WEP O13 Clay wagon and a connoisseur NE Toad E.
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Had a change this weekend. My siphon F had been gracing the Greater Windowledge in unpainted brass for too long, and although seasonably damp, the weather wasn't too cold, so I scrubbed it with Shiny Sinks, primed it with Halfords rattle can grey, and then attempted to finish it in acrylics. Honestly, I'm not happy, neither with the finish which is somehow glossy, despite the paint being let down with Matt medium, nor the colour, which is a slightly redder brown than the 6-wheelers, which from memory were Prototype enamels. The roof is also "too" black. (See Chris' Agenoria pannier thread for "in service" black). I'm tempted to have the lot off again, and repaint in enamels, even if it means putting a heater on in the garage for a few hours, as I don't want to spray enamels in the house due to the smell. Grumble mutter complain. I've started a thread on acrylic paints, comments & suggestions welcome. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92956-acrylics-help/ More positively, the 1366 pannier now has a full black "face" (the tank fronts were green, which I have subsequently learned was incorrect), and it now has buffer beam numbers, front and rear. Drain cocks will be purchased at Reading, Zimo sound chip to follow. And I've started the lining on the King tender, and whilst the Bob Moore pen was out, I've lined the parcel tape that I painted green last weekend. Hopefully enough for my Castle too. I now need to cut PK templates for the cab side lining. Photos next week, if progress continues. Best Simon
