Hilux5972's Royal Scotsman Build

[Hilux5972]

So I have begun my conversions. This is Dining Car No.1.

Glazing has been removed and marked, handrails and Gangways have also been removed.

The first lot of filler has been applied and will be left to dry overnight.

[amwells]

Look forward to seeing this develop with interest.

 

In the latest Model Rail I see there is a 'how to' conversion of the observation coach, although the conversion requires two coaches... wondering if it can be done with one

[Hilux5972]

If you want a more accurate observation coach then yes two coaches are needed for a more correct window layout. I'm planning to just use one and getting the best looking layout that I can.

[Richard Pike]

Couple of pictures of a Observation Coach I built last year.

 

 

[Hilux5972]

They look great Richard. Ive seen in the latest Model Rail that the etch George Dent used for his conversion will soon be available for purchase from Extreme Etchings. Hopefully this won't be too far away.

[Hilux5972]

Primer and second lot of filler has gone on. Just ordered the lining and branding from Railtec Transfers so hopefully they should arrive in NZ within a week or two.

[Richard Pike]

They look great Richard. Ive seen in the latest Model Rail that the etch George Dent used for his conversion will soon be available for purchase from Extreme Etchings. Hopefully this won't be too far away.

 

Yes, Brian let me have a couple of his development etchings, they are extremely fine but go together very nice.

[Hilux5972]

The first coat of paint has gone on. It's the closest I could find in my local store. It's called Indian Red. In some lights it looks way off but in others it looks spot on. If I can find a closer colour then I will go with that, otherwise this is good enough for me for now.

[Hilux5972]

I have now sanded down Dining Car No.1 again and have given it another coat of primer. Work has been started on Dining Car No.2.

All parts separated out.

The windows that need blanked off have been glued in place and filled.

This will be put aside to dry before sanding and priming.

[Hilux5972]

The first 2 coaches have had their final coats of paint added. Just awaiting the arrival of the lining and transfers and then they will be gloss coated and reassembled.

Interiors are coming along nicely, reusing the tables and coaches from the mouldings of the coach interiors.

Hopefully the transfers arrive this week sometime and then these 2 Dining Cars will be finished.

 

Regards, Ryan

[Hilux5972]

Tables have had "tablecloths" added. Just white paper folded over. Still awaiting the arrival of the transfers for the Dining Cars so will update again once they have arrived.

[Hilux5972]

Ive made a start on the interior of Dining Car No.1. The floor will be painted red to resemble the carpet.

[Hilux5972]

The transfers have arrived for The Royal Scotsman. I have also ordered 2 Mk3 Sleeper coaches, for the Service Car and State Car 5, from Hattons. £33 including postage to New Zealand.

[Hilux5972]

The first coach has had it's lining and branding added. This is Dining Car No.1. Just needs a coat of varnish now to finish it. Then just awaiting Window Frames and glazing. The lining looks a lot better in reality. The cruelly close photos make it seem far worse than it actually is. Not bad for my first attempt though.

[37038]

Looks really good so far

[Hilux5972]

Thanks 37038. Ive maybe picked a train that's quite ambitious for my first attempt at modifications what with all the windows that need filled, and then the observation car Veranda, but I am enjoying it so that's the main thing lol.

[37038]

The whole rake will look really impressive! And don't worry about the size of the project- you seem to be doing the right thing by working on one coach at a time.

[Hilux5972]

Cheers 37038. One small issue I've noticed this morning. Parts of the transfer backing are showing up between the lettering. Any idea what would have caused this?

I'm planning on gloss varnishing the whole train anyway so it's as shiny as the real thing. Will this hide the backing?

Edited March 24, 2017 by Hilux5972

[Nile_Griffith]

Hi there!

 

Did you apply the transfers onto a gloss finish. What it looks like is that you have air under the transfer, because the surface isn't dead flat and smooth the transfer `'rides" across any minute bumps in the paint and traps air underneath. When the transfer dries you get what is sometimes called "silvering". Its where the carrier of the transfer becomes visible because it's not sitting flat on the paint.

 

A good way to avoid this effect is to use something like Humbrol Decalfix when applying transfers instead of water when applying the transfer. The Decalfix softens the carrier of the transfer so that as it dries it moulds itself closely to the surface of the paint, rather than riding across the bumps.

 

if you look online Humbrol have an instructional video on how to use Decalfix and it gives a good indication of how your problem has arisen.

[Hilux5972]

Hi there!

 

Did you apply the transfers onto a gloss finish. What it looks like is that you have air under the transfer, because the surface isn't dead flat and smooth the transfer `'rides" across any minute bumps in the paint and traps air underneath. When the transfer dries you get what is sometimes called "silvering". Its where the carrier of the transfer becomes visible because it's not sitting flat on the paint.

 

A good way to avoid this effect is to use something like Humbrol Decalfix when applying transfers instead of water when applying the transfer. The Decalfix softens the carrier of the transfer so that as it dries it moulds itself closely to the surface of the paint, rather than riding across the bumps.

 

if you look online Humbrol have an instructional video on how to use Decalfix and it gives a good indication of how your problem has arisen.

Thanks for the reply Nile.

The paint itself was very glossy so it was nice and smooth. I'm thinking perhaps the scribes I made to represent the doors were the issue. I will hunt around for some decalfix before I do anymore. Will a gloss Varnish on top of the coach get rid of the silvering or will it still show up?

Edited March 24, 2017 by Hilux5972

[railtec-models]

Nile is correct. The nature of any waterslide transfer means that there has to be some carrier in between the print in order to avoid alphabet soup (unless somebody wanted to apply each letter individually but then the end result would likely not be straight - even with the steadiest hand, and it would be a painful task). That means that there has to be some basic preparation to get the desired result, and there are certainly more ways than one. A glossy surface is always going to be preferable.

 

Ryan, with a bit of practice and more experience you should be able to achieve a result similar to what George Dent achieved here with the observation car:

http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.co.uk/2017_02_01_archive.html

[Hilux5972]

Nile is correct. The nature of any waterslide transfer means that there has to be some carrier in between the print in order to avoid alphabet soup (unless somebody wanted to apply each letter individually but then the end result would likely not be straight - even with the steadiest hand, and it would be a painful task). That means that there has to be some basic preparation to get the desired result, and there are certainly more ways than one. A glossy surface is always going to be preferable.

 

Ryan, with a bit of practice and more experience you should be able to achieve a result similar to what George Dent achieved here with the observation car:

http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.co.uk/2017_02_01_archive.html

Yeah practice makes perfect. I will definitely be investing in some Decal Fix I think. Will moving the transfer around too much increase the risk of this silvering happening?

[Nile_Griffith]

Done carefully and with a wet surface of Decalfix you should be able to position your transfers accurately. Not sure if you managed to watch their on line video but the Decalfix will soften the transfer slightly and allow it "mould" into any moulded lines in the model. On the Decalfix video it show the application of what is a quite large transfer to the underside of a model fighter jet. When the decal is fully dry, the decal has formed into the panel lines of the model.

 

However I would make sure that any panel lines that you scribe are "smooth" and not rough as I guess this could cause the transfer to tear. 

 

I don't think applying varnish will help you loose the silvering of you transfers at all and will just seal the effect, meaning any restoration will be a full re-paint!!!!

 

You could hold on and try using the Decalfix if you get some on your already applied transfer. I have in the past managed to lift off, some applied and dried waterside transfer (before they have been varnished over) by getting them wet again. You might find the Decalfix might do the trick.

 

Word of warning though. Decalfix contains ammonia so if you have painted your coaches in Acrylic, pronged exposure to the Decalfix may soften/remove the paint, so be careful.

[Hilux5972]

Ok, so after nearly a month away on business, I will be home this Sunday and can finally restart my Royal Scotsman build. Whilst I was away, I ordered some DecalFix, so hopefully that is waiting for me at home. The coach that I had the issues with the transfers with, Dining Car No.2 is going to have to be stripped and repainted again as I had varnished over the transfers prior to noticing the silvering and asking for advice on here. So that's a pain but hopefully it will be ok in the end. I also ordered 2 Hornby Mk3 Sleepers while I was away so the next coaches will be the Service Car and State Car No.5. Hopefully I will be able to post images fairly quickly this week as I have the week off.

Edited April 29, 2017 by Hilux5972

[MGR Hooper!]

Hello Ryan,

I faced a similar problem with the carrier film being exposed. Initially thought it was my mistake as it was the first time I printed my own decals. I actually had no idea what to do. I lack patience and I somehow reached for the gloss varnish and gave the shell a coat or two. It seemed to solved my problem 100%. It might be worth trying that.

And before I forget, excellent work, keep it up and I hope to see more progress