Another as yet unnamed 7mm Layout

[brossard]

Today I installed the tiebars on my 3 way turnout.  One word sums it up:  aaaarrghhh!

 

 

These are on the toe end.  I found that the JLTRT bars are fragile at the half etched tab that goes on the rail web.  I made a repair with some brass strip but had to take care not to desolder when attaching.

 

At the second switch things got real interesting.  Because the left blade has restricted clearance, I couldn't use the JLTRT bar and had to develop something from a picture Google kindly supplied.  I used C&L 4mm copper clad (at least I think it is).  The strip just slides under the rail but I ground 1mm or so off just to be sure the thing will slide.  I drilled 2 holes 28mm and soldered in 0.032" wire in a kind of loop with a length bent perpendicular for fixing underneath the rail.  I am conscious that the copper layer doesn't have much strength.

 

 

On one I soldered a loop for the actuator rod, we'll see if that holds up in service.  It all appears to work.

 

John

Edited March 1, 2018 by brossard

[brossard]

Having finished the 3 way and curved turnouts, I thought I'd spend some time today seeing where things lie.

 

 

The 3 way turnout forms the throat.  The left most road is to the engine shed, center to the station and right to the goods and coal.

 

 

In this view the shed can be seen on the far left.   The box infront of the shed is an ash pit.

The two tracks for the station are next.  I made some 57' templates for Mk 1 coaches and these define the station platform length.  There will be a milk bay where the tanks can be seen. 

The Cl 15 is about as long a loco as I will have so it defines the length of the release.  I made sure to allow for the length of buffer stops. 

Next can be seen the parcels bay currently occupied with an autotrain. 

Behind the station bldg. is a small cattle dock - the cattle van indicates that.

The goods line is to the right with a small goods shed.  There appears to be room for road vehicles.

The rightmost line will feature some coal drops for commercial use.

 

 

A slightly closer picture of everything.

 

 

Finally a look down the layout.  I'm quite pleased with how things look.

John

[brossard]

Yes Brian.  I guess I have more room than many but I still can't get everything that I want in.

 

John

[brossard]

Today, I thought I'd have a go at "improving" a Peco turnout.  These do look generally very good.  However, the most common complaint I read is the "coffin" at the tiebar.  Turnouts with locks had these but they were not everywhere.

Here's the result:

 

 

I removed the three timbers beneath the box.  I then removed the blades and cut the pivots off.  The loose heel connection on the Peco T/O is a rail joiner, this was filed and cut away.

I used C&L timbers and Peco slide chairs to replace those that I had cut out.

C&L cast brass fishplates were used to give a more realistic representation of the loose heel.

The tiebars were discussed earlier.  They are a faff but look pretty good.

The only thing I couldn't do anything about were the stock rail rebates for the blades.

The gaps between stock rail and blade are pretty large but necessary I have found to cater for the FS specs.

Now for the other one.

John

Edited March 11, 2018 by brossard

[brossard]

So, having a look at the layout, it is evident that there are two sidings where the running line needs to be protected from runaways.  Accordingly I made two catch points over the last couple of days, RH and LH:

 

 

I based this on the Peco code 75 template blown up 199% (to compensate for gauge) and then used the picture found here:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/46962-which-direction-should-catch-points-go/ Post #15

 

Gibson sleepers (because I got a good deal on them), Peco chairs and rail, JLTRT tiebars.

 

I will probably use Tortoise motors (I have a lot from previous layouts).  That way if we are feeling keen we can follow prototype practice.

 

John

[brossard]

Having been taken to task by Jim Snowdon in another RMWeb thread about my blade gaps, I had a rethink and have improved them a lot:

 

 

I got the gap to be ~2.5mm vs 3.5 - 4mm before.  I was careful to check with a wheelset to confirm that the flanges don't collide with the blade tip.

I wish I'd read Jims article in MRJ 99 about making 0 FS gauge (32mm) turnouts more realistic before.  In a similar fashion to 00 SF, the key is reducing gauge through the turnout to fine up flageways and blade gaps.

There are 2 sub gauges:  0-MF - 31.5mm gauge and 0-SF - 31.25mm gauge.  These allow the use of existing wheelsets.  You do need specific roller gauges for easch sub gauge.  There is only a need to gradually reduce the gauge of plain track leading to the turnout.  Fascinating stuff.

Over the last day, I have refined the other turnouts that I built so we now have a good baseline.

John

 

Edited to remove reference to 0-XF, see post # 61

Edited March 13, 2018 by brossard

[martin_wynne]

0-XF - 31mm gauge.  These allow the use of existing wheelsets.

 

Hi John,

 

0-XF does not work with existing wheelsets. It is deprecated and abandoned. I have removed it from the Templot pre-sets (although it can be set up as a custom setting if wanted).

 

It can be made to work with S7 wheels, but in that case why not build S7 track (33mm gauge)?

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[brossard]

Thanks for the clarification Martyn.  I saw it yesterday when reviewing G0G standards.  Jim's article discussed the use of 31mm gauge turnouts.

 

One of the great things about 0 gauge for me is the lack of angst (or so I thought) about gauge, since 0-FS has a reasonable 4'7" scale gauge.  I tried EM when I was doing 4mm and didn't have much success converting steam locos.  Life is too short I think and I wouldn't want to go through that in 0 gauge.

 

John

[DoctorP]

John, you are a veritable artiste! I've got a long, long, long way to go young Squire.   DoctorP

[brossard]

Ha well I've been at it a long time and I still have so much to learn!  I try to spread the knowledge.

 

John

[brossard]

Over the last couple I've been working on a job that I put off for a long time - adding coal to mineral wagons.  I don't have many, 7 to be exact, 3 ex PO (I lent one to a friend) and 4 steel.

 

I wanted to make the loads removable so here's my process in case anyone has wondered about this:

 

 

I started by making a mockup with card and lump of foam.  I shaped the foam until I found angles that allowed to card too tilt easily.

 

I then went ahead and made the card supports:

 

 

Installed in a wagon:

 

 

...and tilted:

 

 

The supports were painted and I had to add ID labels because the wagons are not identical:

 

 

The tops were painted black.

 

I wrapped the supports in plastic wrap and placed them in the wagons.  Coal was added and glue has been drying overnight:

 

 

Some of the materials I used:  PVA, IP Alcohol for wetting, coal and a pot of dilute PVA mixed with soap and IPA.  I used a pipette to dispense the dilute glue.

 

The coal loads have been removed.  The glue is still damp where air couldn't get to it, so I'll leave these to drythoroughly:

 

 

John

[brossard]

Over the last couple of days I have been giving some attention to my Cl 08.  I made guard irons from scrap brass strip and wipers from NS wire.  I also prepared the driver by repositioning his left arm from reaching up for the regulator to being at driving desk height.

The loco was weathered:

 

 

 

 

You can see the directional headlight.  Also shunting or station pilot lights can be selected.  These are on at both front and rear and are non directional.  There's also a cab light but it's very subtle.

I started in my usual fashion which is to airbrush earth, followed by black.  This kills the shiny plastic look.

I then went on use powders to highlight the frame details and panel details.  Also the buffer beams.

I then departed from my routine and used Tamiya Panel Lining colour (enamel wash, black and brown) on the main body.  This was scary since I am still getting used to it.  If the wash went on too heavy, I thinned it with neat enamel thinners in a cap.  Once it dried Ithink the effect is quite pleasing.  Each to his own of course.

I did have a a struggle to get the loco running again.  The spray paint dirties the wheels obviously but, in this case it also clogged up the motion.  It took a long time to get the wheels clean with Qtips and IPA.  I then applied Labelle oil to the rods and outsoide cranks.  There was still baulkiness after all this so I took off the keeper plate.  I put white lithium grease on the nylon gear and appled Nano grease (used for metal to metal) to the bearings.  This made all the difference and the loco is a running happily now.

Tick another one off.

John

[brossard]

I have completed my coal loads:

 

 

Showing the various stages.

 

John

[sjrixon]

Hi John, I've just discovered your thread. Really like this and where it's going. I'm not a 7mm modeller, so didn't pay much attention at first, but I'm loving these layouts that are popping up with 08's and Panniers on. 

 

Watching with interest.

[muddys-blues]

Hi John, I've just discovered your thread. Really like this and where it's going. I'm not a 7mm modeller, so didn't pay much attention at first, but I'm loving these layouts that are popping up with 08's and Panniers on. 

 

Watching with interest.

Not a 7mm modeller ..... you are now loitering in the funny farm, you Sir will soon be a 7mm modeller, it’s just to good to resist

 

Best regards

Craig

[brossard]

Hi John, I've just discovered your thread. Really like this and where it's going. I'm not a 7mm modeller, so didn't pay much attention at first, but I'm loving these layouts that are popping up with 08's and Panniers on. 

 

Watching with interest.

 

Until the end of 2016 I wasn't a 7mm modeller either.  I had my epiphany when I studied the Dapol 08, a beautiful model, great runner and affordable.  Craig is right, it is but a matter of time for you.  I really couldn't go back now, I never had so much fun modelling.  7mm pushes most of my buttons.

 

John

[Andrew P]

Hi John, LATE as usual and catching up, but very impressed so far, it's all looking good.

[brossard]

Ha ha Andy, yes, I wish I'd seen the light sooner.  However, my learning curve is steep and things are moving apace.

 

John

[Andrew P]

The 08 looks suitably grubby, excellent weathering John.

[sjrixon]

Not a 7mm modeller ..... you are now loitering in the funny farm, you Sir will soon be a 7mm modeller, it’s just to good to resist

 

Best regards

Craig

One day, one day.. Just not now. Too little time, too many kids.

[brossard]

Working through the locos on my weathering workbench, I did this Minerva 8750 Pannier over the last couple of days:

 

Edit, I wasn't altogether happy with the wheels so I did some more work:

 

 

 

Crew are ModelU.  Tools are from Ixion.

 

John

 

 

Edited March 26, 2018 by brossard

[Andrew P]

Working through the locos on my weathering workbench, I did this Minerva 8750 Pannier over the last couple of days:

 

P1010001-001.JPG

 

P1010003.JPG

 

Crew are ModelU.  Tools are from Ixion.

 

John

Looks very nice John, very subtle.

[doilum]

I have completed my coal loads:

 

 

P1010001.JPG

 

Showing the various stages.

 

John

Not sure if you have seen this on another thread

Try u tube " innocent line last train"

[brossard]

Not sure if you have seen this on another thread

Try u tube " innocent line last train"

 

Now that is an interesting clip.  Unusual POV and lots of detail.  I like the boy in short pants at one point - wouldn't be allowed today.

 

John

[brossard]

Well it has been an ordeal but I think I have my Cl 15 ready for service.  You can read about some of my trials and tribulations here, bring kleenex.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/82812-little-loco-company/page-45

 

I got my driver in with great difficulty and started to weather.  Diesels are quite a ways out of my wheelhouse so I managed to get too much gunk on.  I must have spent three days with Qtips dipped variously in enamel thinners (to remove enamel wash) and IPA (to removal acrylic paint).  I did manage to get the weathering to where I think it looks reasonable:

 

 

 

I think it will do unless someone has suggestions.

 

John