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Bachmann Wheel Centre woes


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Now, I am probably not the first to bring up this problem and, I am open to anyone who may already have found an answer. But anyway, here goes.....

 

I have two Bachmann chassied  B1's which I find impossible to run due to the distortion of the Nylon wheel centres. Having removed the wheels, removed coupling rod pins and wheel centres I wondered what, if anything can be done to restore their running. It seemed to me that there are three possible options:

 

1) Glue the wheel centres to the cast wheels - tried but the distortion seems stronger than any of the glues I have!

 

2) Make .5mm plasticard replacements  - tried, but not wholly successful - breaking through between spokes... maybe a possibility if I have much more time and patience! (they'd also need glueing in place)

 

3 Get replacements made from laser cut material. 

 

Whether option 3 is realistic I am not sure and I haven't approached any companies involved in this process. In addition I suspect  the cost of R&D will make the cost prohibitive for just two loco's. 

 

So, this why I am posting this. Are there any other modellers out there who might make use of these replacements? 

 

Awaiting your responses.

 

Jim

 

 

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I have two Bachmann chassied  B1's which I find impossible to run due to the distortion of the Nylon wheel centres. 

Funny you should say that, I've got 2 B1's that got 'retired' a couple of years ago, and sidelined while I decided what to do with them when I had more time. As all other loco jobs had been cleared out of the way a few weeks ago the decision was taken to replace the woeful early Bachmann split-chassis with Wizard/ Comet/ Mashima motor/ High level gearbox/ Markits wheels replacements . :sungum:

Edited by bike2steam
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Simplest and cheapest answer is just remove the plastic inserts and paint the wheels black. Addition of a plasticard balance weight improves the appearance, or you should be able to salvage the one from the insert. This problem afflicted B1s and Std4s from about the same time, same wheels (?).

When running they don't look half bad in my opinion. I have one that's not too bad and simply attacked the swollen insert with a craft knife, carefully, until it cleared the rods.

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Hi Jim

I resurrected a couple of old B1s just before Christmas and have now added a Post to my Blog.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/880/entry-20345-wheels-and-axles-%E2%80%93-Bachmann%E2%80%99s-early-b1s/



As you can see from this before and after video you can make a great improvement with very little effort and very little expense.

Nylon isolators (wheel joiners) are available direct from Bachmann Branchlines. The oversize wheel centres can be poked out from behind using a cocktail stick starting at the balance weight. It is then a simple if somewhat tedious matter to reduce the size of the nylon with a little emery paper until the wheel centre drops back into the metal wheel casting.  A little bit of warmth and finger flexing should get it back to a 'flat' shape.  I left the nylon still slightly oversize so that it was tight fit in the wheel casting - no need to use any glues to hold it back in place.
 
It was really very straightforward. Edited by Silver Sidelines
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Now, I am probably not the first to bring up this problem and, I am open to anyone who may already have found an answer. But anyway, here goes.....

 

I have two Bachmann chassied  B1's which I find impossible to run due to the distortion of the Nylon wheel centres. Having removed the wheels, removed coupling rod pins and wheel centres I wondered what, if anything can be done to restore their running. It seemed to me that there are three possible options...

 A fourth option, take undistorted wheel centres off any clapped out B1 split chassis you can obtain. This fault didn't affect all the production of this model, which must have been on sale for around fifteen years from Bachmann with the split chassis mechanism. These chassis have so many different ways of wearing out and failing that I was able to keep a steadily dwindling number going until just about every spare that could be salvaged from previous locos was used up, and the last one tottered on until the plating was worn through - finis. I couldn't be bothered to do anything about those wheelface inserts that failed, as they only lasted about six years in intensive service before the plating wore through, and just painted the wheel centres black.

 

Further thought, Replica Railways which originated this model. Did their split chassis design use a plastic cosmetic wheelface insert? If so look for clapped out mechanisms from the Replica B1 too. (The complete wheelsets cannot be substituted into the Bachmann mechansm.)

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A fourth option, take undistorted wheel centres off any clapped out B1 split chassis you can obtain. This fault didn't affect all the production of this model, which must have been on sale for around fifteen years from Bachmann with the split chassis mechanism. These chassis have so many different ways of wearing out and failing that I was able to keep a steadily dwindling number going until just about every spare that could be salvaged from previous locos was used up, and the last one tottered on until the plating was worn through - finis. I couldn't be bothered to do anything about those wheelface inserts that failed, as they only lasted about six years in intensive service before the plating wore through, and just painted the wheel centres black.

 

Further thought, Replica Railways which originated this model. Did their split chassis design use a plastic cosmetic wheelface insert? If so look for clapped out mechanisms from the Replica B1 too. (The complete wheelsets cannot be substituted into the Bachmann mechansm.)

Although Replica first released the B1, if I remember correctly a conversation I had while working at the Palitoy warehouse around 1984-5 development was started either by Airfix before their takeover or Palitoy for the Mainline range, test models having been running in their R & D department.

All of the Replica ones had a slip acknowledging the assistance provided by Bachmann so maybe presume they manufactured them?

 

Edit: Replica also released their version of the STD 4. Also I seem to recall they did the GWR 0-6-2T as well, could be wrong on that so happy to bow to greater knowledge

Edited by great central
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It happens on the Std 4 split chassis as well. I did file off material aroung the outer circumfrence but they bowed again within a year or so, for now I have just removed them and will look at shortening the spokes.

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It happens on the Std 4 split chassis as well. I did file off material aroung the outer circumfrence but they bowed again within a year or so, for now I have just removed them and will look at shortening the spokes.

Thanks, maybe that's the answer.

Jim

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Although Replica first released the B1, if I remember correctly a conversation I had while working at the Palitoy warehouse around 1984-5 development was started either by Airfix before their takeover or Palitoy for the Mainline range, test models having been running in their R & D department.

All of the Replica ones had a slip acknowledging the assistance provided by Bachmann so maybe presume they manufactured them?

 

Edit: Replica also released their version of the STD 4. Also I seem to recall they did the GWR 0-6-2T as well, could be wrong on that so happy to bow to greater knowledge

 

Although Replica first released the B1, if I remember correctly a conversation I had while working at the Palitoy warehouse around 1984-5 development was started either by Airfix before their takeover or Palitoy for the Mainline range, test models having been running in their R & D department.

All of the Replica ones had a slip acknowledging the assistance provided by Bachmann so maybe presume they manufactured them?

 

Edit: Replica also released their version of the STD 4. Also I seem to recall they did the GWR 0-6-2T as well, could be wrong on that so happy to bow to greater knowledge

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Hi Jim

 

I resurrected a couple of old B1s just before Christmas and was planning to add a Post to my Blog.

 

 

As you can see from this before and after video you can make a great improvement with very little effort and very little expense.

 

Nylon isolators (wheel joiners) are available direct from Bachmann Branchlines. The oversize wheel centres can be poked out from behind using a cocktail stick starting at the balance weight. It is then a simple if somewhat tedious matter to reduce the size of the nylon with a little emery paper until the wheel centre drops back into the metal wheel casting.  A little bit of warmth and finger flexing should get it back to a 'flat' shape.  I left the nylon still slightly oversize so that it was tight fit in the wheel casting - no need to use any glues to hold it back in place.

 

It was really very straightforward.

Now, this really something to have a go at. Thanks.

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Funny you should say that, I've got 2 B1's that got 'retired' a couple of years ago, and sidelined while I decided what to do with them when I had more time. As all other loco jobs had been cleared out of the way a few weeks ago the decision was taken to replace the woeful early Bachmann split-chassis with Wizard/ Comet/ Mashima motor/ High level gearbox/ Markits wheels replacements . :sungum:

Bit pricey for my liking but thanks anyway.

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Have a look at the Scalelink website- they have a range of plastic centred wheels which may suit your purpose- not knowing sizes you will have to search their products.

It looks as though that may be a suitable option I'll look further at their website.

Thanks, Jim

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Hi Jim

 

I resurrected a couple of old B1s just before Christmas and was planning to add a Post to my Blog.

 

The oversize wheel centres can be poked out from behind using a cocktail stick starting at the balance weight. It is then a simple if somewhat tedious matter to reduce the size of the nylon with a little emery paper until the wheel centre drops back into the metal wheel casting.  A little bit of warmth and finger flexing should get it back to a 'flat' shape.  I left the nylon still slightly oversize so that it was tight fit in the wheel casting - no need to use any glues to hold it back in place.

 

It was really very straightforward.

I did much the same but did not remove the wheels from the axles but removed the inserts as described and reduced their size with sandpaper to a loose fit and then refitted them with Evostick Pipe Weld which is a strong solvent and softens the insert enough to let it sit flat.  It seems to work on most Bachmann / Mainline split chassis though the B1 still runs like a three legged crustacean.  Fitting pick ups between chassis and wheel backs helps with the arcing and heating which causes some of the issues with distorted plastics around the wheels.

Edited by DavidCBroad
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  • 2 weeks later...

Gents. Thanks for all your posts on this subject. I have made progress and decided the best option was that posted by Silversidelines. So, I have reduced slightly the diameter of the nylon centres and, additionally, reduced their thickness, including shaving off the front,central, boss. As things stand they appear to lie flat. However, Malta's DIYers are not able to purchase Evostik Pipeweld so, at present, I have used UHU.

 

Lets hope the matter is solved.

 

Jim

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