A Highland Miscellany - a Gantry Signal Doing My Head In!

[Sandy Harper]

Hi Mark,  

My railway, my model, my livery. Who needs photographic evidence anyway.

It does look nice in deep wine red though!

 

Best regards

Sandy

[Portchullin Tatty]

As a diversion from the lever frame, I have made a start on the first bit of civils required for Glenmutchkin.  To segmentalise the layout and create more room for descrete vistas and cameos, I intend to introduce an overbridge in the throat of the station.  This will mean that you can not see what is happening at the station approaches/loco shed end from the platform end and vice versa.

 

The bridge is in fact modelled on the one at Killiecrankie, but there were very similar ones at The Mound, Kyle of Lochalsh, Keith amongst others.  Heres a picture of the Kyle one:

 

Copyright by Ben Brookshank and reproduced under a creative commons licence

 

The advantage of using the Killiecrankie bridge is that I had previously modelled one for a layout of this station and whilst the abutments are still firmly attached to some mothballed boards, the deck could be reused.  The deck has a nice skew to it to make it a bit more interesting and utilises lattice girders; whcih with the exception of one gentleman in sunny Spain few seem to bother modelling.  This is what it looks like: 

 

 

In terms of abutments, most Highland (and indeed this is common to most scottish lines) had bridges with curved wingwalls swept back from the face of the abutment.  To give the layout some locational character, this was something I wished to produce.  This is where we are at presently with the abutments:

 

 

Typically, the random or dressed stone ranges from Wills are my favoured mediums but seeing Andy G making a good go utilising Slaters 7mm coursed stone I thought I would have an experiement with this.  This is because many of the later bridges on the Highland used the same coarsely dressed stone; like this one at Dalwhinnie:

 

 

And these show the bridge deck on the abutments as they stand:

 

 

 

[Portchullin Tatty]

The bridge is coming on slowly; due to a combination of work and family commitments and the fact it seems to take a lot of time to do all of the stonework neatly; especially the filling of the joints/corners along with the adjustment of a few stones where the Slaters sheet did not suit the size of the abutments I was making.

 

This is where we are at now:

 

 

[Portchullin Tatty]

The bridge abutments are nearly done now.

 

It takes a lot of time with plastic filler to get the stones to meet neatly at the corners and also to be coursed sensibly at the corners.  Having said this, I am inclined to think it is one of the more important parts of modeling structures and buildings.  Cracks or missing sides/ends on a building are just a total no no and even an untrained eye (I am a chartered surveyor so it is worse for me!) spots the error immediately.

 

This where we now are:

 

 

 

I am not happy with the string course at the moment, it sticks out too abruptly and possibly the same for the copings to the top of the parapet - so more filing and sanding.............

 

However, it does look like a bridge and I doubt the civils guys will condemn it!

 

 

[N15class]

The bridge abutments are nearly done now.

 

It takes a lot of time with plastic filler to get the stones to meet neatly at the corners and also to be coursed sensibly at the corners.  Having said this, I am inclined to think it is one of the more important parts of modeling structures and buildings.  Cracks or missing sides/ends on a building are just a total no no and even an untrained eye (I am a chartered surveyor so it is worse for me!) spots the error immediately.

As  builder I notice the miss aligned or wrongly set quoins, lintels etc. The guys who built our house here hated it because I spotted all the bits that weren't right.

 

I do like the work you have done on this. The stone work looks the bees knees.

[Portchullin Tatty]

This thread started with a series of postings on the construction of a replacement Comet chassis for a Bachmann Crab.  As is my way a bit, it got put to one side but it has been picked up again and is now close to complete.

 

 

 

This is what it looks like with the body on.  I think it is sitting a bit high, so I will have to take a fairly close look at that:

 

 

I introduced a spring onto the front pony truck.  Iain Rice recommends this is in his book on chassis construction to both take a little of the load and also to help steer the pony truck/loco into curves.  My solution works but is a faff as the spring keeps coming out of its yoke - a revision is going to be required:

 

 

I have also made a replacement chassis for my loco - this comes from Lanarkshire Models & Supplies .  It is a bit like the Comet chassis; it needs patience and is intense but is well designed and goes together pretty well.  It uses CSBs as opposed to individual springs but as the kit is conceived ot take these from the start, these are a doddle.

 

 

 

The proprietor (Mr Franks who is on here) might not recognise his kit totally as some big holes have been hacked into it.  This is because I wish to experiment with steam sound on this model:

 

 

I have not been sold on sound fitted steam locos.  They sound too tiny for me but I am wondering if this is about the set up of the systems as much as the actual recordings.  One can but find out...................

[Colin parks]

Hi Mark,

 

Your photos of the Crab are very impressive. I am get very tempted by P4 when I see work like this!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Portchullin Tatty]

Hi Mark,

 

Your photos of the Crab are very impressive. I am get very tempted by P4 when I see work like this!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

 

Thanks Colin but you may have spoken too soon...............! 

 

Whilst the ride height is now sorted, I have found myself another problem.  I made the tender live to one sides wheels and I shorted out the plastic centres with fusewires soldered to the rims and then pooked into the holes prior to the insertion of the axle.  It works fine electrically but it distorts the wheels a bit - as the tender goes along it bounces up and down.  it is a bit like one of the kids cars that have the air-suspension that they pump up and down.

 

Fortunately it is ExpoEM this week, so I reckon Colin Seymour will see the inside of my wallet!

 

Alternative ideas for shorting out the plastic centre - I hear that conductive paint is a bit hit and miss (and where do you get it?); what about a piece of fusewire wound around the axle and off to the other side of the wheet to attach to the rim again?  That is what you do isn't it Sandy?

[Colin parks]

Hi Mark,

 

I thought I could see wire soldered to the backs of the tender wheels.  Wouldn't it be easier to just have pick-ups which are hard-wired to the chassis on one side - or is it the friction from the pick-ups that you are trying to reduce?

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Portchullin Tatty]

Yes it is a c

 

- or is it the friction from the pick-ups that you are trying to reduce?

 

 

 

A combination of this and also a desire to try and reduce the need for pick ups altogether (my next loco will be all out split framed) on the grounds of hiding them.

 

We are still learning!

[Tim V]

Mark

 

Glad to see you're going to try split axles/frames, have a look on the EMGS sales stand, they do a very nice etching to short plastic wheels, better than fuse wire.

[Portchullin Tatty]

Mark

 

Glad to see you're going to try split axles/frames, have a look on the EMGS sales stand, they do a very nice etching to short plastic wheels, better than fuse wire.

 

I reckon I might well do that..............best go via the bank!

[Tony W]

Mark

 

Do I take it you're using Gibson wheels for this? If so be very careful when soldering shorting wires to the back of the tyres as the Gibson centres distort very, very quickly with any form of heat near them. I know, heat...plastic...duh, but the speed of distortion can be quite amazing! Done it, been there, got the T-shirt. I ended up using a cold wet tissue as a heat sink around the join. The only reason I didn't in the first place was because I was originally using Sharman Wheels and their nylon centres were very resilient to heat.

 

Good luck

 

Tony 

[Portchullin Tatty]

Mark

 

Do I take it you're using Gibson wheels for this? If so be very careful when soldering shorting wires to the back of the tyres as the Gibson centres distort very, very quickly with any form of heat near them. I know, heat...plastic...duh, but the speed of distortion can be quite amazing! Done it, been there, got the T-shirt. I ended up using a cold wet tissue as a heat sink around the join. The only reason I didn't in the first place was because I was originally using Sharman Wheels and their nylon centres were very resilient to heat.

 

Good luck

 

Tony 

 

Yes, I am concious of this as I am using Gibbos and of course the tyres are steel so the solder needs a bit of welly to bond (although I appreciate with steel stick is a better word for soldering).  To be fair it is not the problem that I encountered as it was the boss that was distorting with the thickness of the wire.  I reckon I will buy a spare axle over and above the three I need when I see Mr Seymour..............

Edited May 14, 2013 by Portchullin Tatty

[uax6]

How about drilling the axle and tyre and forcing a bit of wire into the holes, therefore removing the need to solder completely? You can always stick the wire in (if the hole is a bit big) with some Humbrol metallic silver (which is conductive, the sidelight lamp bases on my moggy are painted with this stuff and they still light up!).

 

Andy g

[billbedford]

Yes, I am concious of this as I am using Gibbos and of course the tyres are steel so the solder needs a bit of welly to bond (although I appreciate with steel stick is a better word for soldering).  To be fair it is not the problem that I encountered as it was the boss that was distorting with the thickness of the wire.  I reckon I will buy a spare axle over and above the three I need when I see Mr Seymour..............

 

No, Mark, the steel tyres need just enough heat for the solder to flow, are you using 145 solder? The problem with Gibson wheels is that, because the centre are put in from the back there is very little metal to solder the wire to before you reach the back of the flange. Bits of wire on the back of flanges are not a good idea if you want smooth running through point work. I would suggest that you flatten the end of the wire before you solder it to the rim. This will improve the solder joint and make it easier to clean up.

 

At the axle end of the wire, if you are using spacing washers, you can solder the wire to the washer. One trick is to use a thin washer and bend it slightly so that it fills the gap between the back of the wheel and the bearing face. If you do this the washer doesn't have to be in constant contact with the axle as the current will flow directly from the washer to the bearing.

[Tim V]

One tip picked up may years ago was to file a slot in the back of the rim, in line with a spoke, for the shorting strip to sit into. Make sure the strip is tinned before proceeding. As Bill says, use 145 solder, but a normal hot iron (270), get in quick. I've never had a problem.

 

Of course, if available, you could try the brass centred wheels. They are very nice, I have one loco with them on.

[Portchullin Tatty]

Thanks for the replies gents;

 

I fancy the idea of the brass centred wheels but my lathe skills are not presently up to turning them (although I must get my finger out and get better at the lathe!).

 

I did not have difficulty soldering to the steel, as long as I used the right flux and I was concious of needing to keep the wire clear from the rear of the flange.  I had not thought of filing a slot for it and will add this to the list of ideas - as too will be the use of a washer which is a great idea.

[Portchullin Tatty]

Following on from Tim Venton's suggestion, above, I gave the brass wheels from Alan Gibson a try. Whilst I had liked the look of these, I have been shy of thinking of using them on the grounds that my lathe craft is not up to turning them; certainly for drivers where getting the crank pin throw consistent is critical.

The good news is that with a tad of care, the carrying/bogie wheels can be used without resorting to a lathe. All I did was to ream out the axle hole to a very tight fit for the axle. The axle is then mounted using a vice to press it home (taking care to ensure it is going on square). I then mounted the axle in a drill clamped in a vice (aka cheap and basic lathe but it will b*****r the bearings in the drill fairly quickly). With nothing more than a file I cleaned up the rim such that again it was just too big for the steel rim that Alan Gibson provides. The fun bit then came with the heating of the rim on the kitchen hotplate and then the brass centre is dropped into the rim. With a little squeezing around its perimeter it went in straight; does look nice and works a treat.
 

 

I don't think this crude method can be used quite as easily for brass centred wheels to both sides - a mandrel will be required here - but I did not want this so I consider this a success!

Edited May 21, 2013 by Portchullin Tatty

[Portchullin Tatty]

I have not actually picked up a modelling knife or soldering iron for a couple of weeks now; largely because I got a bit of a bug for sorting out the etch artwork.

 

I have now completed, I hope, all of the artwork I will need for all of the signals that will be required on Glenmutchkin.  Indeed, it should do all the signals I and just about anyone else ever needs for any scheme based on the Highland era!!!!

 

I am fortunate that I have a couple of an 1895 McKenzie & Holland catalogue and a further partial copy from a bit later.  I have also been provided with a number of really good drawings of bracket signals from M&H, prompted by my ramblings on the web.  This has given me with a pretty good handle on how they were constructed and I can draw up rather more comprehensive (and a little more specific to the Highland) artwork than are available form any of the other sources.

 

So this is what I have come up with.  Firstly, an etch of all of the arms, balance weights and a track mechanism for raising the lamp to the top of the post (I think this was peculiar to the Highland):

 

 

and then an etch that includes the large brackets used for the multi-doll signals and all of the support brackets and landing.

 

 

and this one is the smaller bracket; used on twin doll signals:

 

 

I am looking forward to finding out if I can do this etching lark; so watch this space............

 

[Portchullin Tatty]

We have some things to catch up on.................

 

Firstly, I received the test etch back from the etchers and after a family holiday (Lisbon - hot but great and with fab trams – see below………). I have had a chance to look at it.  I still have some things to learn, as where I have drawn things up at 4mm the smaller elements have come out a bit fine. So things like the framing around spectacle plates or the cross to the centre of the brackets is a bit too delicate to use. Also, I made a number of the fold lines and the holes are a bit too small so need to be drilled out. Thus, whilst the 4mm ones are usable, they can be done better so I am going to edit the etch.

I also included the signal arms etch at 7mm and this is much better. Whilst one or two elements would benefit from a slight redraft, it is definitely usable and therefore I am just in the process of some 7mm modelling (excommunication from the S4 Society?). I’ll get some pictures up when I can get it a bit further.

In the meantime, I have also managed to have a bash at some 3-D modelling on CAD to get some finials made up. The idea will be to do an initial set via 3-D printing and then to use these to make some lost wax castings. Whilst these are available via MSE as a whitemetal casting, they are very delicate and will last very little time in my clumsy mits. I will do a lamp via the same route for the same reason.

Anyway, this is what the 3-D model looks like (actually the final version has a sprue coming of the top to support the top of the finial but it rather blocks out what it is you are looking at):

 

 

And also some Mackenzie & Holland lamps:

 

 

And even a pair of water columns, one of which is shown here in a disassembled form:

 

 

The Shapeways models are largely now back and the lamps and water columns look great and the Fine Ultra Detail material needs only a very light amount of sanding smooth which I am pleased about.  The finials have come out just a bit too delicate I think at 4mm (I am awaiting the 7mm ones, these may be a little stronger); so I think I am going to have to deliberate exaggerate their width to make a useable model.  I guess it is all part of the learning process.

 

Some pictures of the Shapeways prints will follow at the weekend when I can get some time at home when there is good light; but in the meantime here are some piccies of the Lisbon trams..............

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 2, 2013 by Portchullin Tatty

[Jon020]

The cads look nice Mark..as do the trams!

[Portchullin Tatty]

I have had the test etches back for some time and have had a play with them.  This is what they look like back from the etchers:

 

 

I did find that I had made a number of the components to fine.  I had prototype information, so I had made things like the balance levers to absolute scale and this is too delicate, certainly for 4mm.  So they look beautiful in the etch but would not survive on a layout.  Fortunately, I had also done an etch of the arms and signal components in 7mm, so I was able to do a little bit of 7mm modelling.  This is where it gets too (sorry, slightly fuzzy picture):

 

 

I also got the first of the £d prints back from Shapeways and these are very good indeed, so I am well chuffed with them!  They are slightly difficult to photograph but here is what these look like:

 

 

I need to make a couple of tweeks to these and get a revised print done of them.  I have a miniature etch for the handles done, then I will make a few resin copies of them and they are done!

 

I also had the finials and lamps printed; the lamps worked fine and so did the finials in 7mm but they proved far to fragile in 4mm - so again I need to make a few key elements overscale to be able to use it.

 

 

[Portchullin Tatty]

I have a confession to make; I have been doing some chequebook modelling – and my crime is rather more serious than the latest Hornby offering………………

 

 

 

………and it cost rather more than an offering from Margate too!

 

I commissioned John James to build this about two years ago (that is how long a pro builder’s waiting list is if they are any good) and this was delivered a couple of weeks ago.  14413; Ben Alligan – constructed as she was in the mid 1920′s so in the fully lined crimson lake and jolly fine she looks to I am sure you will agree.

 

But, there is a problem with her…………………..she has names and that is where this post can still go on a workbench thread!  The LMS perpetuated nearly all of the Highland Railway’s names that were still applied to the locos at the grouping (I can think of only one exception – Lochgorm) and continued to paint them on the splashers.  We hunted around for a sensible lettering and did not manage to find any where the font had the right serifs and slightly unusual massing of the down stroke of the leters, so John omitted the names of this and another that he built for my father (Ben Clebrig if that is of interest to you).  That has meant that I have been fighting with CAD again and I think I have got close enough for my purposes (in 4mm, these are less than 2mm high!).

 

So once I have sorted out the right radius for the name (I think the Ben Slioch below is on a slightly too shallow an arc); then I will have a go at printing my own transfers.  I have the appropriate paper, so lets see how we do!

 

 

One of the fun things with the Bens is choosing names for mountains that I really enjoyed climbing; Ben Alligan was probably around my 30th Munro and is a fabulous climb.  If you do it, you have to do the full circuit and finish on the Horns of Alligan – a bit of a mild scramble, not as airy as Aonach Eagach (which I have done) or the Cuillin (which I have not!); but still a jolly fine climb.  Oh and on a clear day you can see clearly to the outer Hebrides – fabulous in the blue sky.

 

 

The Horns of Alligan looking east.

 

[jwealleans]

Magnificent.