Michael Delamar Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 very helpful, thank you, I had seen the 498 plan but not the 499 which is the one I needed. cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 I have a Replica MLV body if anyone wants it - for P & P only. Sorry, it's now gone!!!!!! gone to the cutter! hoping to get another body and a bg this weekend. was a bit of a shame that the cabs are different at each end, I would have preffered to keep both cabs attached to the roof. but I neatly cut under the cab roof lip then drilled it away. I think there is going to be more cutting of the sides than I was led to believe from the one on the replica site as I will cut out the bg doors as they are the correct length and mix and match with large window sides and bits from the mlv's and maybe other plastic if necessary. what I didnt like at first site was the chunky cab windows but I trimmed down from behind with a sanding wheel on the dremel, so they now appear a lot thinner. I can start a new thread on this is anyone wants, rather than contine here? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Wherever you post michael, be sure to post a link here. You know how I like a good cut 'n shut! Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 gone to the cutter! DSCF7519.jpg hoping to get another body and a bg this weekend. was a bit of a shame that the cabs are different at each end, I would have preffered to keep both cabs attached to the roof. but I neatly cut under the cab roof lip then drilled it away. I think there is going to be more cutting of the sides than I was led to believe from the one on the replica site as I will cut out the bg doors as they are the correct length and mix and match with large window sides and bits from the mlv's and maybe other plastic if necessary. what I didnt like at first site was the chunky cab windows but I trimmed down from behind with a sanding wheel on the dremel, so they now appear a lot thinner. I can start a new thread on this is anyone wants, rather than contine here? I have copies of the drawings of the best way to make a model of E68000/M68000M from Gareth of Replica Railways I am afraid that you appear to have wasted a body needlessly as you require another cab and a Replica BG body to cut'n'shut with. I can send you copies if you wish. XF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 are you sure? I have that drawing, and I am getting another MLV body, i know you can get just a cab from replica but my friend has a MLV body spare and a BG body, be picking them up from him at Ally pally. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 dont forget that the second long cab, be it the cab available on its own or one cut from another mlv, will be cut from the roof in a different way with the roof cut off so that it fits under the cut out lip of this roof. the lip is a nice moulding on this MLV by the way. id rather do it this way than cut through the roof. the rest of the side bits will be cut away from the bg and mlv at a higher place, ie cut the roof off, so the sides then fit into this mlv in the same style as a DC kits coach. the replica drawing is also wrong as it uses the MLV side doors which are too long, should have the BG width doors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 I think I have it sussed. I bought a long cab and a BG body from Replica at Ally Pally last weekend and also glazing. Ive been measuring it up, comparing to the drawings and photos. I think, once the cabs are on and have their double doors, the BG will go as it is in the middle, cut from the ends of the double doors marked in the picture. the 4 large window sections from the MLV will go between the cab and BG, but rather than cut these 4 panels from the door line as they will be too short, I will cut from the door window mark and fill in the moulded door gap here, this gives the right length and also studying the drawings this window wasnt centred between its neighbouring doors but offset and I think this is where the stretch on the real thing was. like this photoshopped pic.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted March 26, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26, 2013 Starting to look good - nice surgery. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 ive done one side today, may do the other side tonight at the club. that butanone is starting to kick in. phew! black marks are just where I used a brush that had some black paint still on it. first I cut the roof off the newly aquired long cab, I also then smoothed off the middle windows gutter and lamp brackets. I attached the new cab and worked along in one directon, left to right. making the second cab doors from the BG. I smoothed off the MLV large window lip surround and added the bar to them to match the BG ones as per the prototype. overal quite happy with how its going so far, its getting its strength back but I will still add something inside to be sure. I found a spare Mainline mk1 chassis for it and will be getting some DC kits class 501 power bogies next weekend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 other side is done, with front centre windows filled in, strenghtening bits behind the joins and the coach chassis made to fit. that was the easy part, now comes the roof conduit and underframe gubbins so will need to study up on that. id really appreciate any advice on this area. then there is the handrails and all the filling in of gaps to do. plus other jobs like door hinges etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted March 27, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 27, 2013 Wouldn't it have been easier to strip the paint off the c/c coach first, if you are going to do it when the model is structurally complete you could do damage to the existing work. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 I would just primer over it, I may have stripped it if I had something to soak it in but just got stuck into it, there is also the business of disposing of used chemicals. as you say ill be careful with what it is cleaned up with later, likely just be soapy water.white spirit would dismantle it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Hi Michael. Nice work so far. Could you post a picture of the inside for me? I'm happy with my cutting and shutting on my Trans - Pennine, but your methid may be stronger. If so, I might nick your ideas.....! Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 here you go Sean, only some scrap bits of plasticard, can add more if necessary, in principle its the same as a DC kit and they dont normally need much, the cab door was the most fragile, not pretty but seems to do the job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Thank's Michael. Are you going to have to smooth over any joints or are they all in the door gaps? I ask because my plasticard packing on the bodyside still seems a little flimsy but may be down to my heavy handedness. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 im just about to do the filling and want to keep it to a minimum as possible, so i will fill in the door line on the large green panels and some areas where the sides meet the roof, ill mask it up when I do the filling as its a bit neater and doesnt mean you have large areas of filler in areas you dont need which means having to clean it back off and get scratches on areas which should be smooth, I will be using squadron green filler. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 masked off, filled in and cleaned off both sides.. the green filler goes off in minutes so you have to be quick with taking the masking tape back off, but then leave it a few hours before its totally set. then rubbed down with a very fine nail sanding sponge, next up, drilling of holes for handrails. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 As mine will be M68000m it had some changes made from when it was on Tyneside, the steps over the buffers have been cut off and I have drilled out what will be the lights which it aquired in the same style as the Liverpool LMS baggage cars. it had the buffing plate removed and to represent the welded in panels to cover over the destnation panels I will wait until its had a coat of primer to make sure what I have filled in is smooth then add the panels from something very thin like a decal or sticker so they appear flush. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 When I am over the flu I will be getting my saw out and making a start on my M68000M XF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 ive got a pig of a man flu cough and cold, kicked off when I started with the Butanone on this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 I decided to make the panels that replaced the headcode box out of some very thin (almost paper thin) plasticard, even then it stands proud, the real thing was flush but the weld join could be seen, so once it was set i filed it down, first going round the edges with a scalpel. also made a start on the handrails. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 and then you look at some more photos and decide its not quite right, so took them off, easy just brush some butanone on them and theyll peel away. then adjusted the size and position of them, I did the other end at the same time. happier now, also opened up the light holes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 It's all coming along very nicely Michael. You mentioned nail sanding sponges? I'm going to google that next, but if you're able to point me in the right direction? I use ones from boots, but they're not as fine grade as I'd like..... Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 my sister gives me them when they are worn down so they are not as rough, good because you can cut them into smaller strips to fit in the area you want. what I want to find who does the correct cream lettering transfers for "BAGGAGE CAR" "FISH TRAFFIC THIS END" and "M68000M", not expecting to find complete words on a transfer sheet but if one sheet does the different size of capital letters ill be happy to do it individually. just glad this is a one off vehicle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Try for Michael. They certainly do the cream ones for the Green DMU's. I'd assume they do the Yellow ones too? Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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