Dapol Track Cleaner

[Peter Beckett]

My Dapol track cleaner arrived from Rails of Sheffield, well packed and only a bit over a week from UK. It has a basic instruction sheet in English and German with diagrams that go to a bit of detail about converting to DCC. I tested it on DC and everything (ie the motor and pick-ups) worked OK. As I run DCC, next thing was to remove the DC plug from the 8 pin socket and plug in a DCC decoder. I use Digitrax so fitted a DZ125PS which handles 1 amp and has a 8 pin plug. I then used Decoder Pro to program the decoder to reduce the top voltage that could be applied (to minimise possible damage to the motor) and then put it on the track. Imagine my surprise when the motor ran so silent until I discovered that it was not running . I took out the decoder, replaced the DC plug and tested it on DC and everything was OK. I was a bit surprised as the decoder was new, so put it in a Class 37 and no problems.

So back to the track cleaner. I removed the small circuit board ( 4 screws) and gave it a physical look and to my dismay there was a large solder bob connecting pins 1 & 8, which explained why it worked on DC but not DCC. Once the blob was removed, Presto! The motor now worked OK.

I then put it on the track behind a Black 5 and noticed that the performance was a bit sporadic. The Black 5 cruised at the slow set speed without any problems but the Dapol motor would start and stop continually. By putting a slight pressure on the track cleaner with my finger, performance improved dramatically so it looks like tomorrow a bit of liquid lead will be used to overcome the lightness of the unit.

I was very impressed with the vacuum cleaner as it picked up loose ballast and the odd dead insect.

I next tried the track cleaning attachment which looks like fine grade wet and dry and it certainly gave some grotty sections in my fiddle yard a good clean. Then used a track cleaner liquid and attached the polishing disc and ran it on the main part of the layout. It removed all of the slight oil residue that was on the track from running many different locos.

There is no adjustment to the amount of liquid that goes on the track but their system only allows a small amount out and after leaving the unit stationary for over 4 hours in a siding, the track was a little damp but no puddles, etc.

I liked the NEM sockets as I run Kadee so out with one type and in with the No 19.

 

I have tried quite a few track cleaning devices (CMX, etc) and this unit has (after the problem fixed) impressed me.

 

Now trying to figure out what prototype machine it looks like ( I run 1948 - 1967)

 

Peter

[Les Bird]

I've had mine for a few months now and have found it a very useful piece of kit. I agree though about extra weight being needed.

[Guest RAFHAAA]

I would have liked a bigger fluid tank as it drains very quickly even with the brass weight restrictor.

Rob

[Paul-H]

What surprised me when i got mine was that after spending all that money you then find they don't include a bottle of the cleaning fluid.

 

Whilst on the subject of the cleaner at the botton of the filler tube is a lump of turned brass, which way up is it supposed to go small or large end up or dosen't it matter.

 

Paul

[Peter Beckett]

Paul,

The "smaller" end goes to the top. If you look closely at the bottom of the "larger" end you will see a very small turned step. This is, I believe, the flow regulator to allow the cleaning fluid to come out. Not quite as sophisticated as the screw adjustment on the CMX cleaner but it works even though you can't control the amount of flow.

 

Peter

[neal]

I too tried to convert one to DCC with similar results, although mine tripped out the controller with that worrying burnty smell!

 

I also removed the decoder (thankfully undamaged and inspected the pcb. I must say that this is a shockingly badly-soldered board, and as I identified at least 3 points where shorts might have been occurring, I resolved to return it rather than risk my rather ham fisted soldering skills making it worse!

 

A little disapointed really, particularly as I appear not to be the only person who has had this or similar problems. Not sure whether to replace or get a refund.

 

N

[Neal Ball]

Have received a Hattons branded one for Christmas and am very disapointed:

 

1. Converted to DCC by using a Gaugemaster DCC20 chip, bit of a faff to get the chip in, but all ok.

 

2. Does not work (I dont have DC, so could not check ahead of converting.)

 

3. Taken apart again and found:

 

4. Blown 100 Capacitor(?)

 

5. Red wire broken off.

 

Given this was a present and the (co-incidently) 2nd faulty item from Santa, all in all a bit disapointing.

 

thankfully I also received a Bachmann Sketty Hall, which works fine, straight from the box!

[loggerhead148]

re extra weight, can anyone advise on where it's best placed?

 

Thanks in advance

[Ian_B]

When I first used mine I chipped it reduced the maximum voltage and ran it for a short period (10-15 mins), then it started running intermittantly. On investigation I found that the pickup springs had heated to the point that they deformed. I understand that they've changed the pickup design since then, Anyone with a recent one care to describe what they did? Mine's sat to one side until I can find a reliable way of getting power to the motor that doesn't involve passing DCC current levels through fine metal springs.

Ian_B

[Gwiwer]

The present iteration seems to differ from the earlier releases in several respects. I have a purple peril and now a two-tone green one as well. The first one didn't like running with cleaning fluid on the pad and the pick-ups have never been quite the same since; it remains erratic in operation no matter what I do with it.

 

The early ones had the control switch marked for full or half power (for the vacuum cleaner) where the later ones simply have "on - off" with no power setting available. But the green one, from the latest batch, seems to be more reliable than the purple one ever was with slightly different pick-ups. It does appear to draw a not insignificant amount of juice but without a meter I can't get a definite figure. Coupled to a Bachmann loco it generally runs OK but with a power-hungry Heljan there isn't enough oomph in the track to keep both moving satisfactorily.

 

I can't comment on DCC issues as I run DC but to add weight to the unit I just drop a fishing sinker into its belly. Handy having that big space in the middle with a detachable top, eh?

[D605Eagle]

I have a purple one without the power switch. I'm not that impressed to be honest. The wheels get dirty very rapidly when using it and I keep having to stop and clean them. How come the 08 pulling or pushing it doesn't? I found the abrasive pads are far too corse leaving the track surface heavily scratched which doen't help them stay clean. The vacuum is really powerfull, but mine picked up a piece of loose ballast and destroyed the blades. The buffer pads seem to be the only tool that works really well and I'm pleased with that aspect, but overall I would say not a good purchase. Theres appears to be no comparison to doing the job by hand. My advice would be to spend the £55+ on a model you want and do the cleaning carefully by hand.

Jim

[Klink]

hi guys,

 

I got the 'Atlas' version of the car from an Australian store a while ago- does anyone know if there is a DCC chip in the same spot as the Dapol one? YES I lost the packaging and paperwork or I wouldnt ask

 

I dont really want to convert it to DCC but our exhibition layout has gone digital on one track and I want to be able to use the vacuum on it.

[simplex]

I bought one recently via Hattons. Had terrible trouble getting the thing to run properly. The motor would only run for about 20% of the time, then I discovered the pickup springs were missing from one bogie. A quick call to Hattons and some new springs arrived. However it is still quite disapointing and requires wheel cleaning very frequently. I was amazed at the amount of material the vacuum picks up, but the abrasive pads are a bit harsh. Not one of my best investments and all the effort in wheel cleaning would probably be better spent cleaning the track the good old fashioned way! Has any one considered running the thing off a 9volt battery?

[Neal Ball]

Mine ran happily yesterday afternoon. But I like the idea of running it off a 9v Battery. With the abrasive disk on and a gentle nudge I found it almost self propelled round the layout.

 

I then ran for about an hour with the buffer pad, dropping oil onto the track which worked very well.

 

1st time the layout has been used for a good 3 months and I am happy with the cleaner.

 

I started off by manually cleaning the track then self propelling the unit round the entire layout, then ran it with my Heljan Hymek.

 

Happily then ran the layout for a couple of hours. Although this is my 2nd one (BR Blue).

 

Regards,

[Bouncy Bouncy]

Hi All,

 

I'm currently looking into ways to clean my track without having to manually do it (As the layout is rather large and there are a few "inaccessible" sections!) and I'm looking at purchasing the aforementioned item. I've just got a few questions for those who do have one:-

- Does this item actually work. Is the track left clean and shiny, or does it cause the suface of the rail to be worn down, and possible electrical issues with points

- The hoover - How powerful is it, as my track has been ballasted, but i've not stuck the ballast down. Will the hoover pick it all up as it goes along, and if so, is there an "off" setting so just the main cleaning module can be used?

- There are a few comments about the wheels becoming incredibly dirty rather quickly. Does this dirt get spread across the freshly "cleaned" track, and is it a pain to clean up?

 

I'd also appreciate any comments about the item, as I don't really want to spend £50+ on an item that's not nesseccarrily going to work properly!

 

Thanks!

[jcm@gwr]

Hi B.B.,

I wouldn't recommend using the vacuum attachment on non-glued

ballast, it will pick it up and possibly damage the blades [see post 11]

But the vacuum bit has to be removed to fit the other pads, so you

don't need to do anything to stop it, it's one or the other!

 

The abrasive pads are not really to be used regularly, just possibly

for an initial serious clean [it could also help with slight mis-alignment

of rail-head].

The cleaning pads [in conjunction with the cleaning fluid] are the best

part of this bit of kit [after the vacuum] and do a good job.

I have'nt had the problems with the wheels yet, but I would take note

of the comments already posted on previous posts, esp. the weight.

 

Good luck, Jeff

[bike2steam]

I have been using the Dapol Track Cleaner for a few months. First, I have binned the abrasive pads, I do not use anything abrasive on my rails, I keep then a smooth as possible, even the slightest scratches attract dirt. The vacuum cleaner is excellent, my ballast is glued down, I use isapropanole (?)/ IPA, the foam pad for applying the cleaning fluid has been changed for one of harder density.Operation of the track cleaner takes it twice round the entire layout, once with the vacuum cleaner, then with the polishing head, and IPA cleaner applied with a 150 gram weight in the vacuum cleaner space. The track cleaner is propelled at a scale 20mph over the 300 feet of running rail on my current layout by a large loco once a month, and I don't have any problems with dirt, either on the rails, or wheels.

[Gwiwer]

It does what it says on the tin, to borrow an expression.

 

We all have different layouts in different situations and will experience slightly different results with this or any other track cleaning product. I cannot keep my rails as pristine as might be ideal simply because they are outside. That said the Dapol cleaners (I have two) make regular runs coupled as a pair and propelled by a low current-draw locomotive such as Hornby 08 to maximise the current available for the cleaners.

 

The leading unit is set to vacuum-clean the track ahead of the cleaning unit which uses IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol, nothing to do with beer) on the pad.

 

The results are satisfactory, though a heavy brass unit might do better, and include the collection of a surprising amount of insect debris. It's also worth checking the contents of the vacuum cleaner for those odds and ends of moulded plastic which you notice missing and can't find for looking. More than one stray item has been found by this method!

[Bouncy Bouncy]

Thanks for the replies so far. So in general, the vaccum can be taken off permanently, and it can be configured so only the cleaning fluid module is used. This would help me, as the majority of the layout is ballasted, only the hidden sections and bridges are not ballasted. Is it also advisable to fit a weight of some form inside the unit so that it operates more effectively? I imagine the extra pressure will allow the application of cleaning fluid and removal would be more effective.

 

One further question though - the cleaning fluid. I guess this will be sprayed on and wiped away by the unit, or is it just a wet pad underneath?

 

I'm slowly being sold on this item!

 

Thanks for your help so far,

BB

[bike2steam]

Thanks for the replies so far. So in general, the vaccum can be taken off permanently, and it can be configured so only the cleaning fluid module is used. This would help me, as the majority of the layout is ballasted, only the hidden sections and bridges are not ballasted. Is it also advisable to fit a weight of some form inside the unit so that it operates more effectively? I imagine the extra pressure will allow the application of cleaning fluid and removal would be more effective.

 

pm) If your ballast is not 'fixed' then the vacuum cleaner could be a problem, but I would recommend you fix it as the vacuum is a very useful part. I tried various weights to see which would be more beneficial, and came up with 150 grams, and yes it improved the cleaning, but as I say I also used a higher density foam pad which improved the efficiency of the cleaner.

 

One further question though - the cleaning fluid. I guess this will be sprayed on and wiped away by the unit, or is it just a wet pad underneath?

 

pm) The Dapol Track Cleaner has a small tank to hold the liquid cleaner, IPA is the best to use, it is drip fed(very slowly) onto the foam pad.

 

I'm slowly being sold on this item!

 

pm) If used properly you wont regret it.

 

Thanks for your help so far,

BB

[BROADTRAIN1979]

Hi i bought the Dapol 'n' track cleaner early last year but i hardly use it, im so used to cleaning my track by hand. Once my layout is completely built, i will possibly use it,as i need to convert it to dcc as well.

 

Mark.

[Andy1963]

Hi, I bought the 00 version last year. Run it on DCC, had the intermittent motor running problem described above. Would agree the vacuum is very good, as for the cleaner and polisher, it won't go over my Peco electrofrog code 100 points without derailing. It's back in it's box while I decide whether to modify the points (the plastic guide rails are higher than the running rails), or flog it on Ebay and buy another loco. GWR Castle is next on my list.

[Theakerr]

Sometimes you win, sometimes you loose. This time I lost. I bought a Dapol track cleaner knowing from this thread and others that I was taking a bit of a gamble. Got it today. The lack of instructions is amazing. Until I reread this thread I didn't know which way up the fluid weight went when it fell out. It took forever to "wet" the cleaner such that I was wondering if I had missed something. Even when wet it did not clean that well. As a simple test I went back over the "cleaned" section with a soaked cotton bud and got a whole lot more crud off. The so called grinding pad is more like a rubber cloth is it is indeed the grinding pad. I am assuming that the "fibre glass matrix pad" is the polisher since it seems pretty soft. Also had to add weight.

[southfork]

Hi All

Just joined andas a first question, can I ask when you fit the DCC decoder to the Dapol Track cleaner, do you have to programme it or give it an address or does putting the decoder in place let the cleaner pick up the required power for the cleaner/ hoover ? I am presuming that as the Dapol unit requires being pushed or pulled there is not a lot of point in loads of functions .

[Ian_B]

Yes you still need to program the decoder. A cheap Motor only one should do fine. You might want to restrict the top speed if the original Dapol advice about restricting applied voltage still applies.

Ian_B

 

Hi All

Just joined andas a first question, can I ask when you fit the DCC decoder to the Dapol Track cleaner, do you have to programme it or give it an address or does putting the decoder in place let the cleaner pick up the required power for the cleaner/ hoover ? I am presuming that as the Dapol unit requires being pushed or pulled there is not a lot of point in loads of functions .