'O' gauge ? first tentative steps. Corrugated goods shed part 3: Painting and weathering

[daifly]

 

does anyone know if you can 'buy' 31.5mm track gauges, and if so from whom?

 

Roxey do flat, etched 31.5mm gauges but I don't think that anyone commercially produces roller gauges of the type illustrated above. I wish they did!

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[Debs.]

I don't think that anyone commercially produces roller gauges of the type illustrated above. I wish they did

 

Hmmmmmm!.......do I spy a niche?

[David Siddall]

Hmmmmmm!.......do I spy a niche?

Well, when you said you could turn up your own it did cross my mind to ask... I'm guessing it'd depend on how many people would be seriously interested as to whether it would be worth your while?

 

D

[two tone green]

Nice work David and your posting well worth reading.

 

The talk of the differences in gauge between Peco RTR track and hand built has recently become a sort of issue for me with some locos in my fleet dropping into the gap in the rails in the V of the points.

 

I used Peco O gauge points for ease of use and having seen them on layouts seemed to be ok. Having had only Heljan O gauge locos that ran almost faultlessly the point work was never an issue.

 

But now that I have JLTRT locos with ABC gear boxes, Slaters wheel combinations on them the V problem and dropping of wheels into the gap has reared its head for me. The back to back seems fine but the JLTRT locos bump and bang their way through the point work.

 

Perhaps if I had more time, usual lame excuse, I would set too and build my own and possible solve one or tow problems i have with using the 'fixed' geometry Peco offers.

 

Great work though and do keep posting your efforts. See you at Bristol hopefully

[David Siddall]

Well now... hand-built turnout number one has finally got some blades and my (still as yet) incomplete Peco 'mineral' will run through the entire formation without falling off! Even more satisfying was the discovery that there's no unwanted 'rock-and-roll' as the wagon's wheelsets pass through the 'vee'. I suspect that this has a lot more to do with how accurately C&L's pre-assembled 'common crossing' units are constructed than any of my efforts though ;-).

 

The rail breaks in the blades and 'stock rails' are entirely cosmetic (a couple of touches with a slitting disk in my mini-drill) following advice on other turnout construction threads. And whilst you can't really see it in this pic' also I've added the 'toe end' sleeper missing from from the 'Timbertracks' base - a matter of simply cutting a piece of waste play from the (soon to be discarded) sheet surrounding the sleepers.

 

 

Still to do... the tie/stretcher bars (call them what you will), they're the really scary bit because if I get them wrong everything to date had been a bit academic. However, spurred on by progress so far I think its time to invest in a new bit for my exceedingly weary soldering iron. I am going to have to give this next step some thought though because I'm not sure how to drive the throw: I've currently got three options 'bought because I thought they might be useful one day': 1) a rather magnificent-looking Weissman drive unit; 2) a servo drive with controlling electronics of almost voodoo-esque complexity; and 3) a latching Seep solenoid with built-in polarity switch. I suspect the latter will be discounted as an option as I'd happily consign the dreaded 'thump' when they're thrown to history and I'm almost certain solenoids will break the rather delicate looking Ambis tie-bars in absolutely no time at all.

 

But that's for next weekend... I really need to do some work this week :-/

[David Siddall]

...do keep posting your efforts. See you at Bristol hopefully

Absolutely re. Bristol 'TTG', I look forward to it. Anyone who's been prepared to follow my inane ramblings thus far deserves a beer so I'll line 'em up :-)

 

D

[Allegheny1600]

Hi David and all,

What wonderful progress you're making on here, excellent and inspirational! Thanks!

Re: The 31.5mm question (again, sorry!) - does anyone on here happen to know if such as Lenz (German) and Atlas, Weaver, Sunset (US) makes would be affected?

Cheers,

John E.

[two tone green]

Will see you there David. Hope to make it for kick off.

[David Siddall]

Re: The 31.5mm question (again, sorry!) - does anyone on here happen to know if such as Lenz (German) and Atlas, Weaver, Sunset (US) makes would be affected?

Thank you and no apologies required John... the more questions get added to this thread the better as far as I'm concerned. I'm just delighted that so many knowledgeable people seem to be happy to take the time to drop by and offer advice! Hope someone can answer your question :-)

 

D

[David Siddall]

Having chosen to go the 'real wood' sleeper/turnout timbers route one of the distractions I've been employing to take my mind of the fact that this is going to be yet another (at very least) 70 hour working week is... how am I going to colour them? I've read several forum threads, interrogated Google and pondered on this issue for at least ten minutes whilst trying not to crash-out completely in front of the ten o'clock news. And what have I learned? Well, mainly that there are, yet again, plenty of alternative theories on how to achieve the best result.

 

What is very clear however is that unlike moulded plastic sleepers/turnout timbers (which are pretty robust and come pre-coloured in a nice 'dark-creosote' brown), I'll need to be thinking of something rather more sophisticated than just hosing everthing over with amorphous track colour from an aerosol. And I'll definitely have to be wary of anything that can cause thin ply to warp! The thought of my first (so far nicely flat) turnout taking on a banana-like twist fills me with dread. Hmmmmm? I think it might be prudent to cut some strips of ply from the waste which surrounds the 'Timbertracks' base and do some experiments before comitting to any technique for the turnout itself.

 

I've also had a further furtive peek at the 'Ambis' tie-bar components which came with the kit, however they're definitely going to have to wait until the weekend as I think I'll need time to dilligently consider their 'destructions' and come to a conclusion about how I'm going to drive them without the pressing and frequent intervention of phones, email, and deadlines :-/

[Mike Bellamy]

A friend of mine, Paul Martin at EDM Models produces a 'Weathered Wood Stain' designed for laser cut buildings. This is exactly the same as 'Silverwood' sold in the States but as it contains various solvents etc, it's difficult to export/import so they told Paul how to make it!

http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Scenic/TOOLS.html

 

With his building kits, he recommends staining before construction as the glue used might seal the wood and stop the stain penetrating - not sure how this might work on your sleepers and if the stain is dark enough - perhaps several soakings would be better.

 

 

EDM Models will be at Mickleover (Derby) on Sat 21 Jan

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/50223-mickleover-derby-21-january-7mm-narrow-gauge-open-day/page__pid__578269&do=findComment&comment=578269

 

and at Shepton Mallet 18 Feb

http://www.ngsw.org.uk/index.html

 

Mike

[RedgateModels]

There's a good discussion on the Templot forum at the moment about colouring wooden sleepers. I too have the Ambis tiebars to have a play with on Fourgig. I was originally going to retro fit one to the existing A4 point but as this is hidden from view behind the goods shed now I might save the etch for the double slip etc. There was a thread on here somewhere where the fitting of them was detailed ....

[66C]

Hi David

 

I coloured my ply timbering with a dilute mix of black and brown Humbrol enamel - but I did that before laying the rail and chairs - the chairs stick no bother.

I used an airbrush with a mix of rust red and burnt umber to colour the chairs and rails - there was surprisingly little overspray on to the already coloured timbers.

If you have an airbrush it is definitely easier and much faster than using an ordinary brush - a side benefit is that you get a more even coating of colour.

 

The Ambis tie bars - solder the brackets to the switch blades first - this is easier if done before the blades are in position. Trim the copperclad to length and don't forget the isolating gap in the middle - of both sides! I made one tie bar longer and soldered a brass wire loop at the end away from a viewer to engage with a drive wire through the baseboard. You can just see it in the first of the three photographs I posted earlier.

Set the switch blades equal distances from the stock rails - I used some 1.6mm thick copperclad as packing. This will give a total travel of about 3mm - that recommended by the Guild and reduce the force needed to move the switch blades. Tin the copperclad tie bars, insert into the brackets and pack to the correct level before soldering in place.

 

If a tie bar does not sit quite right - it is not difficult to de-solder and refit.

 

Regards.

[David Siddall]

If a tie bar does not sit quite right - it is not difficult to de-solder and refit.

 

Really appreciate all this... lot of research and thinking to do as a result of all the advice. I'm looking forward to a productive weekend.

 

66C... this of course would be true were my soldering skills soldering not quite so exclusively focussed on trying avoid burning my fingers ;-)

 

TTFN.... David

[dikitriki]

Hi

 

Gratuitous posting on Ambis stretcher bar.

 

Aligning the 2 brackets.

 

 

Brackets soldered in place.

 

 

 

Stretcher bar attached.

 

 

 

I compromised on appearance because I wanted an operating stretcher bar that would survive the rigours of exhibitions. I only used the Ambis one for the second bar.

 

Richard

[Webbo]

Well, when you said you could turn up your own it did cross my mind to ask... I'm guessing it'd depend on how many people would be seriously interested as to whether it would be worth your while?

 

D

I certainly am interested, PM sent.

Alan

[Debs.]

I certainly am interested, PM sent.

Alan

 

Replied to!......thankyou.

[daifly]

Roxey do flat, etched 31.5mm gauges but I don't think that anyone commercially produces roller gauges of the type illustrated above. I wish they did!

 

To be more accurate, the Roxey gauges have two half-etched fold lines and fold up into a U-shape.

[Debs.]

To be more accurate, the Roxey gauges have two half-etched fold lines and fold up into a U-shape.

 

Noting the limited commercial-availability of them, and thanks to those whom have contacted me with kind messages of encouragement: I`ve decided to machine-up a batch of '0' MF (31.5 mm. with a 1.5 mm. flangeway) roller gauges.

 

I`ll contact (via P.M) in due course, those whom have requested a set.....additional sets may also be available, and I`ll post on RM-web (nearer the time) with news on any such availability.

 

Kind regards,

Debs.

[David Siddall]

Aligning the 2 brackets.

 

 

I compromised on appearance because I wanted an operating stretcher bar that would survive the rigours of exhibitions. I only used the Ambis one for the second bar...

 

Now that appears to be a very elegant compromise Richard... I wondered why I kept all those foot lengths of copperclad from building N guage track? I had this feeling they'd come in useful.

[David Siddall]

...recommends staining before construction as the glue used might seal the wood and stop the stain penetrating - not sure how this might work on your sleepers and if the stain is dark enough - perhaps several soakings would be better.

 

I coloured my ply timbering with a dilute mix of black and brown Humbrol enamel - but I did that before laying the rail and chairs - the chairs stick no bother.

 

The Ambis tie bars - solder the brackets to the switch blades first - this is easier if done before the blades are in position.

 

All issues I'll defo' take into consideration when I build the next one... thanks guys :-)

 

I've got some rather nice dark stain which I used to blend in a repair to our ancient floorboards (not far off the colour of creasoted sleepers in some places!) and was thinking of giving that a whirl; and of mixing up something from black/brown acrylic to give a similar colour and hue as an alternative. Il'l post pic's once I've got something to show.

[Webbo]

Could an Ambis stretcher be used as the first bar but soldered on to the copperclad for strength. This way it would look more prototypical and it should stand the abuse it may well be given.

Alan

[Alan Kettlewell]

Noting the limited commercial-availability of them, and thanks to those whom have contacted me with kind messages of encouragement: I`ve decided to machine-up a batch of '0' MF (31.5 mm. with a 1.5 mm. flangeway) roller gauges.

 

I`ll contact (via P.M) in due course, those whom have requested a set.....additional sets may also be available, and I`ll post on RM-web (nearer the time) with news on any such availability.

 

Kind regards,

Debs.

 

Debs,

That's brilliant! Please add me to your list - have sent you a PM. Many thanks indeed.

Regards

Alan

 

David,

Great thread, thanks for the time you've put in with this. I'm also a newcomer to the gauge and have a C&L points kit in my possession ready to start my first round of track building, so this is great for me. Keep up the good work.

Regards

Alan

[David Siddall]

Could an Ambis stretcher be used as the first bar but soldered on to the copperclad for strength. This way it would look more prototypical and it should stand the abuse it may well be given?

 

Now that is an interesting thought Alan... the copperclad I used for my N guage points is surprisingly strong despite being only a couple of mil' wide.

 

And for the benefit of those who haven't seen Ambis' stretcher/tie-bar components before they're crafted into the final form, one slighlty less than perfect camera-phone pic'...

 

[Matloughe]

I must say your point looks absolutely fantastic!

 

I can see an immediate (and far better) look then my Peco Points - currently browsing the C&L Range

I'm sure you've said it already but what sort of tools did you need to put the point in a bag together and I am considering purchasing one on the next pay day to keep me out of trouble.

 

Cheers,

~ Gary