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4 CIG for Newhaven Harbour


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Battling with the DTCLs again. The final fitting of the cab fronts to the bodywork has been a delicate affair.

 

Not so delicate is the means of holding the fronts on. A rather large self-tapping screw holds this cab front firmly (but not too tight) to the body/roof leading edges.

 

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Just keep everything as solid as possible, a self-tapping screw hold the floor to the chassis, also gripping the bottom edges of the sides. I am struggling with the Bachmann chassis to be honest. They are not flat at all for reasons which must have to do with the trusses.

 

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The corridor connection will conceal the screw head once the route indicator panel is installed.

 

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Now, hopefully, that parcel of fabric will have arrived so I can get on with some real work........

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Painting has started.

 

The roofs have their coat of grey. Some of the scrapped body sides have been given a coat of Rail Grey with a view to using them for both practise with the airbrush and bow pen.

 

Ceptic has helpfully PM'ed me some web images I had not seen before of the interior of the TSO, which show what looks like a partiton on either side of the middle doors. To add to this, the TSO is shown to have tables!

 

Just when I thought I had finished making things for this unit!

 

Colin

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Painty stuff got under way in earnest today.

 

The sides shown here are from the ill-fated 1st set, which were retained for experimental paint techniques. Well, I have learnt that the bow pen could be made to work - even with a single coat of Precision Paints Dull Rail Grey. Lining over the beading is not easy and requires removal of excess paint here and there. The plan is to line out the sides and then paint the blue. I really don't know yet how the Precision Paints rail Blue can be made thick enough to line around the outside of the white lining in blue before masking off and spraying the rest of the side as Ian Rathbone suggests. It has occurred to me that the blue above the white lining and at each end could be applied with a bow pen (or even a brush), leaving only the part of the side below the lined panel to be masked and sprayed. I just can't decide what is best as yet.

 

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Following Ian Rathbone's book, I used gloss white for the lining with quite a lot of the oil poured off. The only difference is that he uses Humbrol, whereas I have used paint from a tin of Revell gloss white. I does seem couter-intuitive to use very thick paint, but the bow pen started to work - just like that! The results are far from perfect, but there is hope. I shall spray these sides with gloss varnish and try another set of lines using Humbrol gloss white this time. My finest paint brushes are completely shot to bits, so I will need to buy some new ones for 'paint-lifting' to correct errors and for painting in the curves in the lining. On this next photo, there have been no correction to the white lining around the beading. One thing that does help with getting the lining a consistent width is to draw a line about 2" long on some scrap plastic to get the paint flowing before applying the pen to the side.

 

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There is some blotchinesss in the grey paint on these sides. I suspect it is due either to inadequate cleaning of the sides prior to painting (none actually) or to residual air-brush cleaner in the paint. Meanwhile, the real set of sides have received their first coat of Rail Grey and will get another coat tomorrow. Other parts have been de-mounted ready for painting.

I was totting up the approximate number of individual pieces (including original Bachmann ones) that will have gone into the building of this 4 CIG unit and think it will be in the region of 1,500 by the time everything is done. Gulp!

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Hi Colin,

 

Your lining is looking good. I look forward to seeing the real sides when they are done. At least you only have four coaches to do for this unit. I have a Hastings unit to do, so will be following this method of painting with interest. I don't fancy doing Fox lining for six coaches!!

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

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Hi Colin

 

That lining looks pretty good for what I assume are the first attempts, bearing in mind that the pictures are larger than the model and will exaggerate any defects. I look forward to seeing the painting progressing.

 

Cheers SS

 

Thanks SS.

 

Yes, these are my first real attempts at lining. The only other work done with the bow pen was to paint in wire grilles on luggage compartment windows and yellow stripes on 1st class compartment sides. I have to admit that on looking at the photos again today, the sides are really rough and they were never intended to be finished to the same standard as the definitive set - hence the ragged corners and dust!

 

Colin

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Hi Colin,

 

Your lining is looking good. I look forward to seeing the real sides when they are done. At least you only have four coaches to do for this unit. I have a Hastings unit to do, so will be following this method of painting with interest. I don't fancy doing Fox lining for six coaches!!

 

Cheers for now, Ian.

 

Hi Ian.

 

I can empathise with anyone building a 6-car unit. Four coaches have taken over 6 months (with a two month hiatus in the earl;y summer). It is an absolute marathon, especially with now real drawings.

 

As for lining, the sides in these pictures are a bit rough., so more practise is needed. Also, I don't think you will have the vertcal beading to worry about on a 6 H, which will make things easier. One compensation with the BR blue/grey livery is that there is only an appreciable amount of blue below the windows. I remain convinced that the other edges can be brushed in, or with a bow pen, as neatly could done by spraying. We shall see.

 

If you can, buy the Ian Rathbone book 'A Modeller's Handbook of Painting and Lining' (Wild Swan Publications). It is a very readable book and Mr Rathbone doesn't lay lining down perfectly at the corners first time either. What is most valuable is knowing how to do the corrections! It is a lot easier to have a go when you know mistakes can be put right.

 

Off to give the 'real' sides another coat of rail grey now. Also lost the footsteps on one side of the MBSO's power bogie - grrr.

 

Colin

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The phrase 'steep learning curve' could best describe the goings on of the last few days. Failure was not an option, given the months of work that have gone into making these sides.

 

I realised that the white lines, drawn in and laboriously cut back with a spirit dampened brush, were too wide. Not only too wide, but they were beyond the practical operating width of the bow pen. The bow pen worked much better when ruling in the narrower lines of Rail Blue around the outside of the white. I cheated by ruling slightly over the outer edges of the white lines which has brought them to somewhere near the right width and tidied up the appearance. The most critical of all aspects of this operation to contend with was the fact that the Rail Grey panel is the same width as the window frames are deep - no room for manoeuvre.

 

Here is a TSO side. The Tipp-ex bottle is only there to hold the side up for the photo. Don't worry, I did not use Tipp-ex for the white lining!

 

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All sides are now at this stage. I had to plan the top blue lines of the DTCLs with some care, making sure they stopped where the yellow first class stripe will go (bearing in mind that one DTCL has only three first class compartments instead of four). Ruling lines over the vertical beading was a pig of a job, requiring some delicate paint-lifting with the finest of brushes. (Edit)The holes for the door bangs can be made out - just on the white lining. Thank goodness they were not fitted before painting.

 

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The rest of the upper areas of blue will ruled in/painted tomorrow night. The sides will be rested for a day after that before masking off the upper body and spraying the lower part of the side.

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I won't be giving up my day job.

 

Here are the sides, almost ready for their transfers.

 

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Actually, the bottom part of the side was sprayed blue before brushing in the rest. Both Larry Goddard and Ian Rathbone give the tip of removing masking tape immediately after spraying. This is very good advice.

 

Colin

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Colin

 

Those look very good any close ups looking down the length of the body sides?

 

Will you be using HMRS pressfix decals?

 

Pete

 

Hi Pete,

 

Sorry, there are no other photos at present. The blue paint had only been on for two hours when this photo was taken. The transfers will be Modelmaster excepting those for the windows which are Fox products. I don't think I will bore everyone with any more photos until the 4 CIG is back in running order!

 

 

All the best,

 

Colin

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This thread, as well as your scratch-builds, are beautiful and most inspiring, Colin!

 

Although I'm mostly into steam, I must at some point have a go with a 1950's DMU.

 

Regards,

 

Stefan

 

Many thanks Stefan!

 

Hopefully the fact that this build has been going on for nine months will not put you off trying this sort of thing.

 

Colin

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Many thanks Stefan!

 

Hopefully the fact that this build has been going on for nine months will not put you off trying this sort of thing.

 

Colin

 

If I tried something like your current project Colin, it would probably take me twice as long and ending up half as good, but I'm not put off. :)

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Hi Colin

 

The paint job looks very good I look forward to the piccies of the CIG reassembled.

 

Cheer SS

 

Thanks SS,

 

I shall be honest and tell you the paint job looks OK from the good old 'normal viewing distance'. Re. lining etc.- there will be one close-up of how things realy look just to keep a balanced perspective!. By cheating grossly, the white lining has been narrowed to something like scale-width by ruling rail grey on the inside edges.

 

Today I am going to apply the transfers. Perhaps there will be a photo of the TSO later on. The parts have had their final air-brushing - apart from varnishing the sides and cab fronts. Now where is that cocktail stick......?

 

All the best,

 

Colin

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Hopefully the fact that this build has been going on for nine months will not put you off trying this sort of thing.

 

Colin

 

Neat paint job, Colin. Damn neat.

 

Nine months in the making. A mere drop in the ocean, in this neck of the woods.

 

The rtr big boys can, at least, take just as long, with all their resources. (and still end up with a pig and a poke)

 

Best they take a leaf out of your book.

 

By the way, does the motor benefit from the extra weight added ?

 

Cheers, Frank.

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A few pictures of the amost 'up and running' TSO. The paint is still a bit tacky from the initial weathering of the chassis and the carrier film on the transfers will be removed before varnishing the sides for the final time.

 

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A close up to show the appalling truth about my painting. Painting a model in a workshop where I was working on some feather cushions and cutting lots of polyester wadding this week was unwise. There is a pesky wisp of white polyester fibre to the left of the door, but luckily not stuck in the paint!

 

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And finally: a view for Pete Harvey, without whom, none of this would have been possible! (For Ceptic too, who first alerted me to the bow-endedness fn these vehicles). The interior has not been screwed down tight, hence the bottom corner of the side isn't quite in line with the end. A set of Ultrascale 12mm wheels might be on the cards to help with the overall appearance.

 

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The sides are not weathered as yet. I was rather miffed that the transfer sheet used had the C1 marking but not the preceeding word 'Restriction'. Drat.

 

Colin

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Neat paint job, Colin. Damn neat.

 

Nine months in the making. A mere drop in the ocean, in this neck of the woods.

 

The rtr big boys can, at least, take just as long, with all their resources. (and still end up with a pig and a poke)

 

Best they take a leaf out of your book.

 

By the way, does the motor benefit from the extra weight added ?

 

Cheers, Frank.

 

Hi Frank,

 

You will see the photos show not such a neat paint job!

 

Re.. the motor, I have added a brass weight to sit either side of the motor bogie bracket in addition to the copper weight under the interior. No traction problems encountered! It would probably benefit the Hornby 4 VEP to get the motor coach up to around 450g too, it having the same motor.

 

Colin

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Hi Frank,

 

You will see the photos show not such a neat paint job!

 

Re.. the motor, I have added a brass weight to sit either side of the motor bogie bracket in addition to the copper weight under the interior. No traction problems encountered! It would probably benefit the Hornby 4 VEP to get the motor coach up to around 450g too, it having the same motor.

 

Colin

 

Hi Colin.

 

Re: the feather / fluff, I'd rather blame one of those pesky Newhaven Harbour Seagulls. It's got too close, looking for the dead flies !

 

Many thanks for the weight info, and for the opportunity to contribute to such an enthralling topic.

 

Cheers, Frank.

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Hi Colin.

 

Re: the feather / fluff, I'd rather blame one of those pesky Newhaven Harbour Seagulls. It's got too close, looking for the dead flies !

 

Many thanks for the weight info, and for the opportunity to contribute to such an enthralling topic.

 

Cheers, Frank.

 

Ah yes Frank, the dead flies.

 

Perhaps a little touch of matt black spattered throught the aribrush might do!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

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Marvellous work Colin! You have the patience of a saint and exceptional ability!

 

All the best

Simon

 

Thanks Simon!

 

It's been a case of leaning on the job with this project. I've learnt how to use a real airbrush (equally important - how to clean one out), understand how a bow pen is used (lots to learn yet) and how to make a model without a set of drawings (but lots of help from this forum).

 

All the best,

 

Colin

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