4 CIG for Newhaven Harbour

[MJI]

I like that, lovely model, sorry to puncture a little but my models the paint is not perfect, so at least I am not alone (I do spray).

 

Mine look fine at normal distances but bad in photos (tidying up edges).

 

So don't worry that is a good model.

[Colin parks]

I like that, lovely model, sorry to puncture a little but my models the paint is not perfect, so at least I am not alone (I do spray).

 

Mine look fine at normal distances but bad in photos (tidying up edges).

 

So don't worry that is a good model.

 

Hi MJI,

 

Thanks for your comments and re. paintwork - you are not alone.

 

The subject of painting has been high on my agenda recently. The latest photos are cruelly enlarged, but I'm happy to admit there is a lot of room for improvement. But I have enjoyed the painting process far more than I had expected. This is in no small measure due to the fact that Ian Rathbone's book shows how there are ways to correct paintwork (which I had not thought possible before). It takes a lot of stress out of the job knowing that if anyting goes wrong, there is a remedy.

 

It has to be said though, digital photography picks up every detail - good or bad!

 

Colin

[Colin parks]

This was the image I intended to post re. C1 markings. Those Also shown are the eletrical connections which I would like to be able to add 'cables' to. Unfortunately, experiments with Bungee cord rubber and 1mm x 1mm magnets have shown the rubber fliaments to be far too large in diameter (the magents were OK though). If only there was a supply of 0.5mm dia. black rubber available somewhere.

 

 

I am not a lover of carrier film. It will be gone tomorrow ("- and so might the lettering!" (says to self)).

 

Colin

[andyrush]

This was the image I intended to post re. C1 markings. Those Also shown are the eletrical connections which I would like to be able to add 'cables' to. Unfortunately, experiments with Bungee cord rubber and 1mm x 1mm magnets have shown the rubber fliaments to be far too large in diameter (the magents were OK though). If only there was a supply of 0.5mm dia. black rubber available somewhere.

 

 

I am not a lover of carrier film. It will be gone tomorrow ("- and so might the lettering!" (says to self)).

 

Colin

I use this stuff as dummy earth return on a garden railway - still not 0.5mm though

http://www.amazon.co...2AXMMDX12517W1R

 

Andy

[Mark C]

This was the image I intended to post re. C1 markings. Those Also shown are the eletrical connections which I would like to be able to add 'cables' to. Unfortunately, experiments with Bungee cord rubber and 1mm x 1mm magnets have shown the rubber fliaments to be far too large in diameter (the magents were OK though). If only there was a supply of 0.5mm dia. black rubber available somewhere.

 

 

I am not a lover of carrier film. It will be gone tomorrow ("- and so might the lettering!" (says to self)).

 

Colin

 

Colin

 

Check out EZ Line (an American product hence: easy-line!) used by aero modellers for aerial wires and biplane rigging etc amongst others, but is also suitable for telegraph wires apparently! It comes in heavy and fine grade and a range of colours including black. More information via www.berkshirejunction.com - I bought a reel today via Little Cars (www.little-cars.co.uk) - no connection to either except as a satisfied customer.

 

Good luck and keep up the excellent work!

 

Mark

[Enterprisingwestern]

If only there was a supply of 0.5mm dia. black rubber available somewhere.

 

Try fishing line Colin.

 

Mike.

 

PS. The 4 cig looks as good as the one Bachmann will shortly announce

[Colin parks]

I use this stuff as dummy earth return on a garden railway - still not 0.5mm though

http://www.amazon.co...2AXMMDX12517W1R

 

Andy

 

Thanks for the link Andy. I shall investigate.

 

Colin

 

Colin

 

Check out EZ Line (an American product hence: easy-line!) used by aero modellers for aerial wires and biplane rigging etc amongst others, but is also suitable for telegraph wires apparently! It comes in heavy and fine grade and a range of colours including black. More information via www.berkshirejunction.com - I bought a reel today via Little Cars (www.little-cars.co.uk) - no connection to either except as a satisfied customer.

 

Good luck and keep up the excellent work!

 

Mark

 

Thanks Mark. Another link to have a look at. It does seem that the right product is out there somewhere.

 

Colin

[Colin parks]

Try fishing line Colin.

 

Mike.

 

PS. The 4 cig looks as good as the one Bachmann will shortly announce

 

Thanks for your suggestion Mike.

 

Does fishing line come in black I wonder? As for Bachmann and 4 CIGs: if this model persuades them to have a go, I would be pleased. I am sticking my kneck out, but I think the basic 4 CEP chassis would be correct for the first phase of CIGs and BIGs. (Oh dear, this is bound to be wrong. I should know better!)

 

Colin

[Enterprisingwestern]

Does fishing line come in balck I wonder?

 

I've seen it variously in clear, black and dark green, also comes with a hole down the middle, (monofilament?), perhaps one of our resident worm drowners can elucidate.

 

Mike.

[Colin parks]

Much teasing and messing about with the transfer carrier film. I'm glad this process is over. The sides remain in a fragile state until a coat of varnish can be appllied to seal them in.

 

 

The running numbers ought to be correct for unit 7429. I have presumed that the order in which the DTCLs, MBSOs and TSOs are listed in a scan of a page from a stock book kindly PM'ed to me by Ceptic are the order in which the vehicles actually ran. (Important for the first class compartment layout, one DTCL only having three.) All numbers had to be cut and shut from what I could find on the Modelmaster sheets.

 

After studying prototype photos, it was clear that originally, the unit munbers were positioned slightly to the left of centre of each cab front window. Later in service in BR days and post-privatisation, the numbers were centred. Nothing is straightforward with a 4 CIG. The '7's' on the cab fronts have a wider spacing than those of the running numbers on the sides, just to make things that little bit harder!

 

 

I even managed to get rid of the film over tiny lettering such as 'Private'. (Although I lost the dot over one of the 'i's' for a few minutes!).

 

 

Yes, there is a (thankfully loose) polyester fibre over that number 6.

 

Colin

[Pete Harvey]

Very Very nice Colin all praise to be given to you for your first pain job with a better Airbrush than you were used to you have done an excellent job thumbs up to you sir.

 

Pete

[MJI]

How did you get rid of the film?

[Colin parks]

Very Very nice Colin all praise to be given to you for your first pain job with a better Airbrush than you were used to you have done an excellent job thumbs up to you sir.

 

Pete

 

Thanks Pete - glad you like the 'pain job'!!!!!!!

 

I have got used to the airbrush - almost. Once the final varnish is on, I shall attempt to add that brown gunge that built up around the window frames.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Colin parks]

How did you get rid of the film?

 

Hi MJI,

 

The method for removing the carrier film works on Modelmaster transfers, which are the ones that will used for everything but the window decals is as follows. After the transfers have had 24 hours to dry, the carrier film is dampened with white spirit applied with a fine paint brush. I use a magnifying lamp to see exactly what is going in this process.

 

After a minute or so, with repeated gentle brushing and dampening, the carrier film will begin to gel. With very careful strokes, always starting from the middle of the carrier film area, the gel-like substance can be eased and rolled off the transfer and removed from the model. If the transfers are not applied to a gloss surface and well adhered to the surface of your model, you run the risk of lifting the tranfer or part thereof. The lettering is remarkably resilient and can mostly be guided back into place with the tip of the paint brush. Small words on the model like: Guard, Private and Load 2 tons etc. are the hardest to deal with and some disturbance of the letters did occur. All was not lost and they were pushed back in line (eventually!).

 

I will have to experinment with Fox transfers to see if this method works. I did read that their carrier film is under the transfer i.e. the lettering sits on it. If that is the case, there is no point trying the above method - it will only work with transfers where the carrier film is over the transfer.

 

Hope this is clearly explained!

 

Colin

[MJI]

Thanks Colin

 

I have a big stock of Presfix but their range is limited

[Pete Harvey]

Colin

 

You are correct Fox Transfers sit on top of the carrier film generally there is only a small amount of film that extends out of the printed area.

 

Pete

[Siberian Snooper]

Hi Colin

 

It all looks to be very very good to me.

 

Cheers SS

[Enterprisingwestern]

I will have to experinment with Fox transfers to see if this method works. I did read that their carrier film is under the transfer i.e. the lettering sits on it. If that is the case, there is no point trying the above method - it will only work with transfers where the carrier film is over the transfer.

 

Fox transfers are screen printed, hence the difference in surface films.

 

Mike.

[Colin parks]

Fox transfers are screen printed, hence the difference in surface films.

 

Mike.

 

Thanks for clarification of the difference between the print processes Mike. I can see that Fox products would work well when used on a high gloss surface and I have seen some good results with Fox transfers.

Hi Colin

 

 

It all looks to be very very good to me.

 

Cheers SS

 

Thanks SS,

 

Lets hope the lettering doesn't all blow away when the varnish goes on tomorrow!

 

 

 

Colin

[Colin parks]

Thanks Colin

 

I have a big stock of Presfix but their range is limited

 

Hi MJI,

 

I don't have any experience of Pressfix transfers. Modelmaster happen to make the vast majority of the transfers that I need for my particular models.

 

Colin

[Ceptic]

Just out of interest, here's Modelmaster's lettering applied to a matt finish (Phoenix Precision Paints on Lam Models plasticard sides), with carrier film removed.

 

 

 

Also avaialable from Modelmaster, Kemco lining.

 

 

Regards.

[Colin parks]

Just out of interest, here's Modelmaster's lettering applied to a matt finish (Phoenix Precision Paints on Lam Models plasticard sides), with carrier film removed.

 

 

 

Also avaialable from Modelmaster, Kemco lining.

 

 

Regards.

 

Hi Frank,

 

Those sides look neat. I'm certain that if there was carrier film (even on a gloss surface) it would have shown up in the second picture. You are certainly living dangerously applying the transfers to a matt finish. I have a suspicion that if the matt paint has not cured, the transfers will stick quite well to it.

 

I have not heard of Larn Models products before - they look to be very good components.

 

Thanks,

 

Colin

[Ceptic]

Hi Colin.

 

This was a cut price, trial & error, experiment, done some time ago. The matt, post-war Malachite painted coaches (shallow vents) are still awaiting semi-gloss varnish, modified Hornby u/fs & interiors !. The deep vented sides, both C/C & BR(S) Green, were painted using Phoenix semi-gloss.

 

My cheapskate idea, with the matt coat, was to apply the lettering after it was left to dry for about 24hrs. and then spray with semi-gloss varnish, thus cutting out one coat of varnish and lessening the build up of layers. These sides are still in this un-finished, un-varnished state (awaiting a round tuit, photos taken last year), and the lettering has shown no sign of lifting, to date.

 

Unfortunately, Lam Models ceased trading some years ago. As you may of guessed, by his surname, he was of Chinese descent, and ran a local model shop, with his wife, in Plumstead High Street. He advertised, regularly, in the back pages of RM, listing his range of pre-punched plasticard, 'OO scale' 64'-6" Bulleid loco hauled coach sides, both shallow and deep vented stock, including the extended sides of the 'Bournemouth stock' with their Restaurant Cars. (multi-door stock was on his to-do list, when we last met).

The sides were of 25thou., cut to size, flat, with pre-punched main-light, toilet & door windows. They needed very little tidying up. Doors / sliding vents had to be scribed in, curvature formed & braced and exterior details added. Not bad for 50p a pair

These were conceived and produced in the days before etched brass sides. IIRC, the only other source of Bulleid coaches were those of the PSL kit range.

 

Mr. Lam... a very knowledgeable and intriguing fellow....sorely missed.

 

Regards, Frank.

[Colin parks]

Thanks Frank for the clarifaication on the Bulleid coach sides.

 

They are very neat indeed for punched plastic. It had crossed my mind that EMU sides could be made with punched plastic sides. It would make the windows uniform in size. My dad did once make a set of punches for N gauge Bulleid coach windows. I never got the hang of producing the sides even though there was a guide plate.

 

That Mr Lam (yes, I spelt his name wrongly the first time) must have been a very talented chap.

 

Colin

[Middlesea John]

We seem to have gone away from 4-CIGs on this topic but how great to see people talking about LAM models. I knew nothing of the guy who made them but have several, many not used yet as they are unsuitable - I bought some and I was given a load about 25 years ago. Between these I made what I could into sets or loose coaches. I've often trawled the internet looking to see if anyone has them. I even posted on RMWeb a few years ago if anyone had any to swap but no response.

I don't claim to have more than about 1% of the modelling ability of some of the posters here but I have had comments that mine (without brass handles and on old Hornby chassis) look better than the Bachmann models from normal viewing distance, purely because of the thin sides.