Guest Jim Read Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Hello all Having got a card chassis to work very well indeed I thought I would make a loco entirely from card and chose the LNER Y7, nice and simple with plenty of room for a Mashima motor In the pic you can see the frame sides, the wheels old Hornby B12 ones with every other spoke cut out (£3.99 eBay) the cab and tank sides which are part of the drawing glued to Ryman's card, the axle bushes from Premier components with some tube from Eileen's to reduce them to 1/8" and the rear pair filed oval to give some compensation, and a boiler this was just a test to see if it would work, I have to find some suitable tube to wrap some cartridge paper around. Will post more as I proceed, I hope :-) Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Hello all, I put the bushes through the card and then pushed a couple of bits of silver steel through to check the parallelism, it wasn't, and about 1mm out. So I used the single hole punch I used to make the holes in the card upside down so I could see precisely how much more to take out, pushed the bush back in and put some shellac around it to glue it in place and lined it up again. This time the rods are parallel so I was able to glue and clamp the first chassis spacer. So far so good. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 I'm just wondering if there will be enough weight in the finished model to haul a skin off a pudding. Looks good though! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Its unimportant as no Y7 was ever used to pull the skin off rice puddings .Thats why they built the Decapod . Sadly just around the time that a self pulling rice pudding skin was developed in the USA .Damn Yanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I know there's economics at play - but is there any particular reason you wouldn't have gone for not-outrageously-more-expensive plastikard and MEK instead of cardboard for the chassis? As a kid (and before I knew what MEK was - this is conventional Humbrol cement days!), I built a few 00 chassis etc. from plastic sheet - if I'd had access to decent bearings and a drill press, they'd have performed better - but the fundamentals seemed sound. I'm just curious for the longevity under stress of card and PVA.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 @flexible_coupling Jim has been using 'shellac' for his modelling for a while & is used to working with it, the card chassis is an 'experiment' this time around, & he sees no reason for it not to work. If you haven't seen his layouts, take a look, they're very good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I have indeed seen Jim's previous work, Moxley bull Lane was a big reason behind my choosing 7mm! More for my future modelling efforts (which is likely to include a few scratchbuilt or largely-scratchbuilt locos) - I'm curious to find a sensible alternative to the standard brass/nickel silver. I'm not saying anything against the shellacked card (I've never tried it, so I've no place in criticizing it) - I am interested to know what the long-term reliability of the glue joints will be though. For my own modelling efforts, I'm seriously considering acquiring some delrin plastic in sheet form and CNC machining it to form frames. I've actually thought about getting cheap chopping boards and literally 'thicknessing' it down in a mill, then applying the appropriate profiling/holes... I know that's not exactly the same stuff - but it could be an interesting experiment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Hello Martin, Thanks for your comment it gives me the opportunity to show you this, a chassis made from Ryman's card which is about 0.9mm thick, as you can see it would not only pull the skin, but the pudding and the bowl it was made in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WadT9EOeTug Roofing lead in the chassis and the body gave enough weight to move to run 2 mainline coaches easily around Woodthorpe MRC's 60 ft layout 4 or 5 times. Hello FC, Interesting that you should point that out in fact shellacked card is a superior modelling material to Plastikard. In the early 80's I made lots of wagons from card and a few loco bodies from Plastikard. The bodies are very brittle now but the wagons are still 100%. Card is also very forgiving the chassis in the video has had the motor and mount ripped out of it twice with a screwdriver, it's now got a Mashima 1833 and flywheel from Bill at Premier components. Hello Mac, Thanks :-) Cheers all - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Hello all, I didn't think it would but it did. Last night I wetted some Daler cartridge paper and glued it around some plastic water pipe that Eileen brought back from her allotment, it was just the right size. I cut through it just now for where it will sit between the side tanks and expected it to spring out of shape as things tend to do, it didn't! I'm amazed!! Hello FC, It was nice of you to say that you'd been enthused by my meagre efforts I forgot to thank you in my haste to answer the questions I found this morning. Thanks it means a lot to me :-) Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Jim you are a master, looking forward to the next installment:) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Worro Mike, Dunno about that, I'll do me best :-) Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Hello All, Another boiler, Eileen suggested using some cling film wrapped around the plastic tube, Reely Grate. I rolled the cartridge paper really tightly around it last night, left it to dry and was able to pull it off easily this morning, it's the best one I've made so far, I hope I'll be able to cut it OK. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Hello all, A little more progress the tank sides, had to put a little door in it the thin piece at the end would have been too flimsy. The firebox with doors and things, well some anyway and the smoke box, laminated card files OK as well :-) The Mk5 boiler is still around the plastic tube, hoping it will be OK tomorrow. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Hello All, I'm reaching the point where I am going to have to put it together I've got most of the bits ready now. I am making the chimney from an old round tapered paint brush and will do the same for the safety valve. I must get a motor and flywheel first though and get the chassis working, I need to make some bits for that as well, the sandboxes and some brake shoes. I've added some weight by putting some roofing lead in the front part of the boiler and in the side tanks. I'm quite pleased with the progress so far. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 If you can manage it, a Mashima 1833, with flywheel and a markits 54:1 gearset would be best. I'm using almost the same set up except an 1824 for another locomotive due to space restrictions. Flywheel drive, and the slowest possible gear ratio make for the best performance of shunting locomotives. I don't imagine that a Y7 would have ever been seen at more than 25 mph. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Hello Martin, Thanks for your comment oddly enough and as these things tend to happen, my 1833 and flywheel arrived today from Bill at Premier Components, I'd already got a 40:1 gearset (well I think it looks like one) When I replaced the motor in my little blue loco (in my profile pic) I used the same 1833 from Bill and used that to draw around it on the Y7 drawing so I knew it would be OK. The video in one of the posts above this shows the chassis with a 30:1 gear, the motor though is an 18v 9 pole one. Using my homemade controller 40:1 is fine I did a demo at the Ilkeston MR show last weekend and had the chassis of my little blue loco running up and down a bit of test track, so slowly that you could see the screw holes that hold the flywheel on. If you wanted the circuit and instructions for the controller I would be delighted to send them to you. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 I'm using a pwm circuit that I bought on ebay for about $7 Australian. Wire in a dpdt reversing switch and presto, quality model train cobtroller. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 My personal view is that one should gear a locomotive so that a scale top speed is achieved when 12volts continuous is being fees to the track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Hello Martin, Apologies if you've been to this site already: http://www.elginmodelrailwayclub.co.uk/2010/advice/scalespeed/model-railway-scale-speed-calculator.html it's all about scale speeds and the table on there says an 0 Gauge loco at 30 MPH should cover 1 ft in 1 sec. He does say though, "Of course, what is right does not always look right is always a good ‘get out clause’!" Personally five miles a fortnight is fast enough for me :-) Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Most shunting moves that I remember were done at a leisurely walking pace, about 2 mph; so that would be about 15 secs to travel that one foot of model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieB Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Hello All, Another boiler, Eileen suggested using some cling film wrapped around the plastic tube, Reely Grate. I rolled the cartridge paper really tightly around it last night, left it to dry and was able to pull it off easily this morning, it's the best one I've made so far, I hope I'll be able to cut it OK. Ok, someone has to say it - is that what they call a stationery boiler? Great series, btw. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Hello Eddie, Just showed this to Eileen she thought it was Reely Grate! :-) Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Hello all, I've made a little more progress on the chassis. I did this little video to show the chassis running freely. http://youtu.be/IFq397kGuvY Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 very very nice how did you make the coupling rods? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Hello Andy, Thanks for having a look, I made the rods from 3mm x 0.5mm nickel silver strip I bought from Eileen's Emporium. Then I cut off a couple of lengths soldered them together, used a rule to measure the 42mm centres and centre popped them with a screw. The 10BA screws are 2.4mm so I drilled the rods at 2.5mm and then 'reamed' them out until they ran smoothly with a triangular rat tailed little file thingy. Takes longer to write it out than it does to do it :-) Cheers - Jim Eileen's Emporium gets my Reely Grate gold award Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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