45568 Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 A couple of LMS 'boxes renumbered to BR. Details in my post in 'Modifying RTR'. Cheers from Oz, Peter C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Those two horseboxes look super Peter. Can you provide a link to your modifying RTR as nothing came up in search. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Thank you very much Mr. G.! It does come down to the fact, that, when Hornby decide to do something very well, they do it very well indeed! I have built Parkside GW and LNER 'boxes, and they make up very nicely, but a couple of hours effort with spray cans and Mr. Isherwood's transfers just gilds the Hornby lily for so little effort! Now for the LMS non-corridors. Cheers from Oz, Peter C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KalKat Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Here you go Coach.................. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95753-Hornby-lms-horsebox-to-br-livery/&do=findComment&comment=1773184 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 There was some confusion within BR as to whether a Big Four design built by BR should carry a suffix letter to the number, and whether some passenger rated vans should be numbered like wagons without suffix or like coaches with suffix. I must say though wagons are not my 'thing'. Re the little circle with an X in it, the ones I have seen show the X does not touch the circle. I dont know what it's meaning is in yellow. I associated a white x within a circle as 'condemned'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted February 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 7, 2015 Thanks to some quick work on my behalf by Kernow I was able to collect one in BR livery at the Alton show today. Manufacturer is TAL and the moulding work looks exquisite with very clear number etc printing on the body. Livery is BR crimson with black ends and very neatly done and totally opaque. As I know next to nothing about LMS NPCCS vehicles I can't comment on its accuracy in any respect but it does look very nice with some delicate moulding of various detail below body level. To be honest it is difficult to comment about the main body colour but this is mainly because of the light in which I have looked at since I got home. However it does come over as a slightly darker (more opaque?) version of crimson than that which I saw on LMS liveried vehicles at the Astolat show a few weeks back - they looked very pink in comparison. But - I repeat - these are observations based on seeing the vehicles in totally different lighting conditions. 'X' in a circle has already been addressed after my blundering into talking about is a a 'condemned' marking - in fact it means the vehicle was prohibited from passing through Snow Hill Tunnels off (and ?also over) the Widenend Lines; it is rendered in white on the Hornby BR livery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Interesting! I didn't see any of these at Alton today. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted February 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 7, 2015 Interesting! I didn't see any of these at Alton today. Regards Mine was putatively arranged in advance against a prior order if they happened to turn up in time. Most likely they didn't have enough to put on general sale as they no doubt have other pre-orders - this was the first batch they have received and Hornby still seem to be sending out stuff in initial batches with more to come a few weeks later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 I've repainted mine with Rover Damask Red. It looks much nearer than before, though still perhaps a bit light. It's also had Mansell wheels added for a bit of variety. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium it's-er Posted February 8, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2015 Goodness! Before most of us have seen these in the the UK, Peter C - in Western Australia, no less - has weathered his (superbly) .... and posted photos and full details on here, and Jonathan has repainted, renumbered and re lettered his (superbly). Such precocious talent! Many thanks for sharing with us - isn't RMweb amazing! John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37079 Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 I have one of these, and I would generally echo the positive comments about the fine detailing, but knowing the preserved one at the MR-B quite well, for me it doesn't quite capture the real thing. I think it's that the curve of the bodyside/tumblehome is not quite as pronounced as it should be, but I'm not sure. It's not that it's a bad model - far from it - and it might even be 'right' but it just doesn't quite get the character for me. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted February 11, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2015 Got mine yesterday. Only had one on order but bought the A version, too! Very nice models with just one criticism from my viewpoint. I use Kadee couplers and the NEM pocket has a bad case of the Bachmann's (i.e. it's way lower than it should be). Using a #18 without packing the pocket, the horsebox persistently became uncoupled from vehicles with correctly aligned couplers. It wasn't possible (without surgery) to raise the pocket sufficiently for the coupler to gauge properly so I went the whole hog this morning by removing the NEM mounts altogether and packing the end of the underframe with 2mm plastic sheet to support a #146 coupler. The groom's end is finished; it looks much tidier and couples/uncouples when I decide! The other end will get sorted after I've had a spot of lunch. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Just in case someone quite fancies some interior detailing: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevor7598 Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I purchased my BR red liveried LMS Horse box to-day ( R6649 ) ,and I have to say it is exquisite,. Any fears of unpainted red plastic dispelled. As far as this vehicle is concerned, this is Hornby back to it's best. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Just in case someone quite fancies some interior detailing: Sounds like an interesting idea, anyone opened theirs up yet and if so, any hints for the rest of us? Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Sounds like an interesting idea, anyone opened theirs up yet and if so, any hints for the rest of us? Cheers, David To answer my own question, and maybe help someone else, the trick seems to be to use the trusty thin bladed screw driver to gently pop the sides out by prying just on inboard of the 'W' irons. Hornby have helpfully left small indents at that point. At least one point is partly hidden by the brake lever but it can be done. No glue to worry about as the top just clips on to the floor. Cheers, David edited to clarify language. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted March 26, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26, 2015 Sounds like an interesting idea, anyone opened theirs up yet and if so, any hints for the rest of us? Cheers, David Hold the model with the Groom's compartment to the right. Above and slightly to the left of the builder's plate printed on the solebar, you will see a small recess in the back of the bodyside. Insert a small (flat bladed) Jeweller's screwdriver into the recess and lever gently. The side should pop off the underframe along its full length (this side only). Repeat with two similar recesses (immediately inboard of each axleguard) on other side and body should come away cleanly. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 The third of David's interior pictures even shows the notice in the store/tack room part of the vehicle which gives an indication of the floor plan. Looks like it could be arranged for stalls for up to three horses. I had a suspicion that the stall dividers were demountable, as there appear to be selectable locators in the roof for the end posts to engage in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 The third of David's interior pictures even shows the notice in the store/tack room part of the vehicle which gives an indication of the floor plan. Looks like it could be arranged for stalls for up to three horses. I had a suspicion that the stall dividers were demountable, as there appear to be selectable locators in the roof for the end posts to engage in. I should think the stall dividers were demountable. They have to hold the horse securely on both sides of its flank, front and rear seeing as it travels stood up. I used to built road Horseboxes and livestock trailers at Abbeyford Trailers beside Abergele & Pensarn Station 1965-6. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Got mine yesterday. Only had one on order but bought the A version, too! Very nice models with just one criticism from my viewpoint. I use Kadee couplers and the NEM pocket has a bad case of the Bachmann's (i.e. it's way lower than it should be). Using a #18 without packing the pocket, the horsebox persistently became uncoupled from vehicles with correctly aligned couplers. It wasn't possible (without surgery) to raise the pocket sufficiently for the coupler to gauge properly so I went the whole hog this morning by removing the NEM mounts altogether and packing the end of the underframe with 2mm plastic sheet to support a #146 coupler. The groom's end is finished; it looks much tidier and couples/uncouples when I decide! The other end will get sorted after I've had a spot of lunch. John John, Any chance of some pictures of the Kadee Couplers fitted please, Thanks, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted March 26, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26, 2015 John, Any chance of some pictures of the Kadee Couplers fitted please, Thanks, Hi Ernie, It's all covered in matt black paint now and I couldn't get a photo that would be very informative! I'll try to remember to get some "during" pics when I do the other one. In the meantime, this is how I did mine. First, take off the body and pull out the brake shoe/yoke mouldings as they will get in the way/get damaged. Mine were just plugged in and came out easily. After removing the NEM pocket I drill out as much of the mount as I can from above. Then I grind away the rest of the mount from underneath using a reverse taper burr in the minidrill so that the recessed area behind the headstock is taken back flat. I leave all the ribs in place and cut a piece of plastic with the ends angled to fill the recess. I cut up 2mm (80 thou) sheet for this but unless you have fairly heavy, sharp cutters, it is easier to laminate up two pieces of 40 thou. Once shaped and stuck in place it ended up flush with the chassis ribs and neatly covers my butchery! Make sure it doesn't go in with any kind of slope - if it does, the coupler will be the same! After it had set, I stuck on the Kadee #242 draft box (#146 coupler). For 2' minimum curves, I put the open end tight up behind the headstock (lip removed from top of box). Again, I give it half an hour to go off then drill/tap the hole for the Kadee #256 screw which will just hold the lid in place. Assemble the couplers, plug the brake shoe/yoke mouldings back in, cut the screw off to clear the underside of the groom's seat, then put the body back on and the job's done. I have successfully used the same basic method on Hornby's SR BY van, LNER and LMS CCTs and GWR Horsebox. The BY needs some extra care because of the sprung buffers. With practice, and the tools I use, I reckon it takes 30-40 minutes* actual work per vehicle. I actually spend longer waiting for solvent to go off as I am ultra wary about accidentally moving parts around when I move on to the next stage of the job. I therefore like to do 3 or 4 models at a time to cut out the stop-start routine. John Edit: * The LMS CCT was a lot quicker as there's nothing much in the way though I "lost" the vac pipes in the process and will have to fit some new ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Converted my horsebox to P4 today. Fairly straight forward, added weight (1 oz) while the lid was off then used the Hornby axles with Gibson wheels as the Hornby axles are shorter but everything still fits. The brake shoes had to come out but will be re-used and re-spaced when time permits. I've test run the horsebox on my track and it works fine without springs or compensation as there is enough sideplay and weight to keep the wheels on the track. Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted March 28, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28, 2015 A fun-conversion would be to re-space the wheelbase to 16 feet to represent D2125 built in BR days. (Incidentally, for BR livery I would have assumed the ends were black but they were carmine red). Tatlow as well as Essery and Jenkinson list 42536 of D1972 as being converted to 16' wheelbase in 1938. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Converted my horsebox to P4 today. Fairly straight forward, added weight (1 oz) while the lid was off then used the Hornby axles with Gibson wheels as the Hornby axles are shorter but everything still fits. The brake shoes had to come out but will be re-used and re-spaced when time permits. I've test run the horsebox on my track and it works fine without springs or compensation as there is enough sideplay and weight to keep the wheels on the track. Cheers, David Most interested in this. I've got a Hornby GWR horsebox that I want to convert to EM (and I'll be getting an LMS one shortly) and the brake gear is so close to the wheel in OO that I've been wondering what to do. Your comment about taking the brake gear out for re-spacing as time permits is something I will have to take a look at to see how it comes out. If you have any guidance on how you removed the brake gear, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted March 28, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2015 Most interested in this. I've got a Hornby GWR horsebox that I want to convert to EM (and I'll be getting an LMS one shortly) and the brake gear is so close to the wheel in OO that I've been wondering what to do. Your comment about taking the brake gear out for re-spacing as time permits is something I will have to take a look at to see how it comes out. If you have any guidance on how you removed the brake gear, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks Phil On the LMS one, the brake hanger/yoke assembly at each end is simply plugged into a couple of sockets in the underside of the chassis moulding. To remove them just pull them downwards. They weren't glued on mine but were a fairly tight fit so care is required. You EM and P4 guys will presumably be replacing the yokes with longer ones but I wasn't re-gauging and just took mine out for safety when fitting different couplers. I therefore only needed to remove the outer pair but the inner ones look the same. The arrangement on the GWR Horse Box looks generally similar but the outer yokes appear to be attached to the NEM mounts in some way so some careful cutting may be necessary. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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