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92220

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Posts posted by 92220

  1. On 30/04/2024 at 13:34, Buhar said:

    Hi Iain 

     

    Do you put a joggle in the diverging rail?

     

    Alan 


    Hi Alan,

     

    I’m no expert here but I think what I do is called a “set” in the diverging stock rail.  I’m fairly sure that I have heard it referred to as that by Martin Wynne and  Norman Solomon.  It’s a kink that allows the stock rail to diverge at an angle that exactly matches the taper of the planing on the blade.  The arrow below points to where the set is, unhelpfully hidden by the gauge - but then you have to maintain the gauge right up to the set so it’s not a surprise.

     

    IMG_2668.jpeg.6404d23b812978f772593a957461fcaa.jpeg


    Now where my expertise definitely gets shaky - I think that on the Great Western they did things differently as usual, and they used a joggle which I tentatively describe as a minute S bend to joggle the stock rail outwards leaving room for the blade to fit.

     

    Iain

     

    EDIT: Rereading that, the arrow is one timber too far to the left.  The line denoting the set is on the Templot plan, one timber to the right so it matches where the tip of the blade fits.

    • Like 4
  2. Turn over and remove the template from half the turnout, but leave in place the paper on the slide chairs as they are less secure being only fixed by a dab of cyano.

     

    Electrically bond the adjacent stock rails and closure rails/blades using 15A fuse wire and solder.

     

    IMG_2767.jpeg.9d5f980250f77808e3a3dca59b8fbc24.jpeg

     

    Then test for conductivity and isolation as appropriate.  Finding you’ve not done this after laying, painting and ballasting is not worth it.  How do I know?

     

    IMG_2770.jpeg.ca080d7af641f25fa466cbfffdb4b4f1.jpeg

     

    IMG_2771.jpeg.19d88c52f30beeb41c821075f8b17804.jpeg

     

     

    Finally, remove the template from the slide chaired timbers using a steel rule to maintain gentle pressure as the tape is released.  

     

    IMG_2772.jpeg.fba1c63611f462dc2927bf5b13225302.jpeg

     

    Clean and ready to go:

     

    IMG_2773.jpeg.02697dd4281a95306fc50295f657d15f.jpeg

     

    Not saying this is a perfect way to do it, but what I’ve learned to do.  I’m not too bad at it now, which is a shame because I don’t have any more to make at the moment……

     

    Having done the Camden diamonds, I’m thinking of the approaches to Newcastle in 1959 in P4 for a bit of relaxation.

     

    Iain

    • Like 12
    • Funny 3
  3. Tie bars:

     

    I use smaller section copperclad here.  I think it’s 3mm and 0.8mm thick.  1.1mm hole for 1mm steel rod for the tortoises. Dremel to ensure no shorts on the upper side, and I use a tiny twist of a 3mm drill bit to remove a sliver of copper from the underside, just in case.  
     

    IMG_2762.jpeg.75ff626c37a09a14497e4e2bab98b965.jpeg
     

    IMG_2763.jpeg.18cfabc9eefe27779d93f49f12a6e1c0.jpeg

     

    Then the blades are soldered directly to the tie bar.  I know……. I know that’s not great engineering practice and I’m prepared to repair if necessary.  
     

    20p is the correct clearance.  Place a timber under the tie bar to ensure both stock rail and blade are flush to the tie bar, which stops solder seeping all the way through.  Flux, in and out quickly to avoid melting slide chairs, and creating grooves which won’t allow smooth operation.

     

    IMG_2764.jpeg.96a172de7a2a7730b6d175df2c9fcf80.jpeg

     

    IMG_2765.jpeg.3272c5aa3c5f45703a272994b6d8e9f2.jpeg

     

    You can see the rounded and smoothed end of the blade here much better.

     

    Then it’s just the final bits to do.

     

    Iain

     

    • Like 12
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  4. Next step is the blades.  I used to use the Portsdown filing jig but I found I did a better and faster job using the clamp and the handle of the small chopping board protruding from the edge of the bench to give an angle from which to file.  Probably wouldn’t be best the first time but after a couple of goes it’s definitely easier.  Care taken to apply constant pressure and go slowly: I don’t think many can have built a few turnouts and not concertina-ed a blade at least once!

     

    IMG_2679.jpeg.1d4fb51d4c9239b925f6cfd239dd1af6.jpeg

     

    I use a series of files, firstly on both head and foot as far as the B taper length, then on the other side on the head only.  

     

    IMG_2680.jpeg.2ff58aea2ae065c648447a340bb8ab54.jpeg

     

    Hard to see from the photo but the leading edge is tapered, rounded and smoothed.

     

    IMG_2681.jpeg.1a40df9a5b813b393419d40c6c069e4f.jpeg

     

    Then the blade is laid, using the Exactoscale locking plastic fishplates which align the rails with electrical isolation inbuilt.  
     

    IMG_2682.jpeg.0b1d00c10d92ae362d4505d6439c8dae.jpeg

     

    Strictly speaking I think my blades are closure rails and point blades combined but if it’s good enough for Norman Solomon……

     

    I tend to add a tiny bit of gauge widening on B6 and B7 just as the radii are getting down to less than 1000mm.  I do this by using 16.5mm gauges through the rest of the curve.  No need on the straight route.

     

    IMG_2683.jpeg.62b9d2e3f5cb077ca3b87b439cc6c968.jpeg

     

    Next the check rails.  These are gauged using the 15.2mm check rail gauge from the common crossing as below:

     

    IMG_2689.jpeg.e5955d67527cb7df7473296689547813.jpeg

     

    Really hope none of the anti-OO-SF brigade see this…..

     

    Iain

    • Like 12
    • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  5. 8 hours ago, 1BCamden said:

    Hi Iain,

    Fantastic work as always, and by far the most difficult section of the entire arrangement. So glad you went back over the double crossings on the north yard entry/exit roads, reliability will be key there, for both staying on the road and turnout operation. Templot is a great piece of software, hats off to Martin Wynne.

     

    Best regards, plus a little inspiration from (as you would know) Douglas Doherty, all those years ago......

     

     

     

    45511 on an ES 1959.jpg


    Thank you Stanley as always.  I will try to recreate that scene (and a few others) in due course.

     

    Best wishes,

     

    Iain

    • Like 1
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  6. I’ve managed to finish the formation completely.  Final few steps were to grind down excess shim and solder with the Dremel, then add the cosmetic half chairs as in part at least seen here:

     

    IMG_2793.jpeg.40eb8d280abdc1186afd7ffc253dbdf6.jpeg

     

    It has now been cleaned and laid on the layout in preparation for testing with locos.  
     

    To do that I need to wire it.  

     

    And to do that I need a control panel:

     

    IMG_2838.jpeg.17f577e08a4fbbb833e3510cd9be8c8f.jpeg

     

    It needs a little tidying and obviously a whole load of wiring, switches for turnouts and sections, but hopefully it will work out well.

     

    Iain

    • Like 14
    • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  7. OK here we go.  Take 2.  

     

    I redid the timbering and printed out a new set of Templot sheets:

     

    IMG_2346.jpeg.bb3708fff143cd70011032841d714e8b.jpeg

     

    I had a question about the timbering around the knuckle on the crossings.  I knew that unsupported rails as a principle were obviously a no-no. But I also had an idea that knuckles were also always supported.  So should I add timbering like this?

     

    IMG_2347.jpeg.7145542cca336aecb6cce57d8c6aa1f3.jpeg

     

    But that didn’t look possible, so I went with:

     

    IMG_2348.jpeg.7b4c1914b7c0e05f976d931cc752ddd8.jpeg

     

    Copperclad at key locations, especially through the crossings where there would be short rail sections and checkrailing, enabled me to maintain gauge and clearances in these crucial areas.  
     

    IMG_2381.jpeg.5fa1de3667190ba3aafe78e02344de07.jpeg

     

    Copperclad tinned where needed.

     

    I tend to annotate plans to help with speed of timbering and adding chairs to often lengthy stock rails.

     

    The copperclad had a strip of card glued to the underside to bring it to the same thickness as the ply timbers.  
     

    Build beginning:

     

    IMG_2420.jpeg.3c1d080936ee7e0d50a5468f76420326.jpeg


    Small pieces of brass strip were soldered to those copperclad timbers where rails would need to be soldered without brass chairs.

     

    For all of the 16 small vees necessary through the checkrailed crossings, I printed out extra copies of the plans so I could construct those separately.  The rail pieces were hand filed and soldered to fret waste before cleaning up, which hopefully left me with vees of exactly the correct angles.  None of them were identical, with slight curvature through all three tracks in the formation.

     

    IMG_2427.jpeg.76717dbe6f185e034a262557f8016e5b.jpeg

     

    Hoping all this makes sense - more to come…..

     

    Iain

     

     

    • Like 9
    • Craftsmanship/clever 10
  8. Thank you dggar, that’s very helpful as always.   I have the signalling diagrams for the southern end of the WCML but I hadn’t looked at them in detail for a while.  What you’ve written confirms access to the north end of the shed from the down lines via the through siding.  I can replicate those moves now.  What I hadn’t thought of was the access to Camden Goods.  But since that is represented by a comparatively minute facsimile on my model, I suspect a loco lift is the best option.

     

    I have been thinking about signalling too but that is further down the priority list at the moment.

     

    It’s fascinating how convoluted the railway evolved to be, both north of Camden Shed and also to the south beyond the steepest part of the bank.

     

    Iain

     

     

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 1
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  9. Thanks Lez.  I am pretty close to finishing the trackwork now.   Only 4 simple turnouts plus this formation to go, and I have plenty of ply timbering left.  I think my simple turnouts are ok as built with ply and plastic chairs now.  I only used copperclad through the diamonds for the stability of soldering those very short pieces of rail needed to maintain electrical isolation through the crossings.

     

    Once I realised the issue with thickness I thought I’d better use as much copperclad as I could through the turnouts too, and plug the gaps later.  Adding the n/s shim under the rail significantly complicates the process too.  I am using pieces slightly too large and then using the Dremel to remove the excess leaving space for chairs to be added.  If - or more likely when - I restart, I think I will use brass chairs on copperclad selectively through the turnouts, with ply timbers and plastic chairs between these.  Only through the checkrailed diamonds and where the rail pieces are so small will I need to use copperclad and shim.  I think, at least. 

     

    I also noticed a problem with timbering through the second diamond.  I only have one timber between v and k crossings each side, but I need 2 to give a sensible look to the rail break.  Probably the timbering which interleaves from the first diamond and the two adjacent turnouts should be revisited too.  That seems now to be not as logical as it felt when I did the Templot plan.  
     

    Iain

     

     

    • Like 3
  10. Thanks both.  I have been away at a conference the past two days and mulling things over in the evenings, I’d almost certainly decided to restart.  It’s actually very smooth-running through the bits of the formation that have 2 running rails 
     

    On the expense front, it has got a lot more expensive to build your own track.  Copperclad is like bitcoin, and both rail and chairs mount up.  
     

    I just calculated that I need around 1250-1300 L1 bridge chairs for the pits inside the shed.  Are there that many in existence?

     

    Iain

    • Like 2
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  11. Interestingly, or perhaps not very interestingly at all …..


    1mm thick new C&L copperclad is 0.95mm

    Old C&L (1.06 nominally) 1.20mm 

     

    Thin sleeper flexi 0.74mm

    Thick sleeper flexi 1.45mm

     

    I didn’t measure a thick ply timber but these are supposed to be 1.5mm 

     

    Iain (mine of useless info)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Informative/Useful 6
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  12. On 16/02/2024 at 10:11, LNER4479 said:

    Salivating ... 🤤🤪


    High praise….. 🤪

     

    😂

     

    Seriously, thank you as always for the advice, support and encouragement, Graham.  Much appreciated.  I hope to bring some more Camden locos to assist with the roster on Shap at some of your future shows, if that would be appropriate, and in time I hope that we can reciprocate.   I think that the scene as it is will represent 1950ish to 1963 well enough, and with a couple of replacement signs on goods shed, signal boxes and mpd entrance, the model will be able to backdate as far as 1937.  Your 6221 with the Coronation Scot past the shed, anyone?  
     

    You do make progress a little faster than I do, though!
     

    11 hours ago, gz3xzf said:

    Iain

    Your project is phenomenal, the scale is mind-blowing, I'm in awe of your skill and ability.
    Keep up the good work I look forward to the updates to see how it is going. 😁👍


    Thank you, Bryan. That’s too kind.  I’m not especially skilful, honestly.  I just learned a great deal from a lot of generous, excellent, truly skilful and knowledgeable people on here and elsewhere, and I’ve been prepared to have a go.  
     

    Hopefully, I will have some more updates to continue the story soon.

     

    Best wishes,

     

    Iain

    • Like 4
    • Friendly/supportive 3
  13. Hi Tim,

    I will see about reuploading some of the photos from the past on my thread.  I also found a couple more of my turntable under construction:

     


    IMG_0562.jpeg.6efc1f9ca19995364538e738abd4b6bf.jpeg

    IMG_0564.jpeg.c48ed24ef0eeb0c9eb73999609f50cdd.jpeg

     

    IMG_0563.jpeg.31ae182f7350a16ab24c33cf95ff8b96.jpeg

     

    IMG_0716.jpeg.8ea9e0c848e65ddf9d8e5677b3b61a87.jpeg

     

    IMG_0717.jpeg.11f4f789f08f5e6eabefa729b040c26a.jpeg

     

    IMG_0719.jpeg.094fb3817982b8013fcd3da7ab82f145.jpeg

     

    Templot is a huge boon, yes.  Although its capabilities are so far beyond mine.  I have managed to insert the crosssings, shift timbers and extend the check rails so I am about to embark on building that section.  
     

    Iain

    • Like 3
  14. Thanks for connecting me to this thread, Graham.  And for such a kind intro!


    Tim (I’ll make a wild assumption) - delighted to find this thread and happy to let you have any info that I have gleaned.  To say that I am interested in Camden 1960 might be an understatement, but to say I have intimate knowledge of the turntable is in turn an overstatement.  Most of what I have is printed material, with some on CD, and I can’t remember when I last had a computer with a CD or DVD drive.
     

    I took the slightly easier (!) way out by heavily modifying a Peco OO turntable.  The long promised Metalsmiths Cowans and Sheldon 70’ turntable didn’t look like materialising 10 years ago and it’s even less likely now.  The Peco one is a touch long of course and has some different details but replacing all the handrails and building the platform with the vacuum apparatus on it seemed to give a passable imitation.  Being brutally honest, in comparison to yours, that is all it is: a passable imitation cobbled together from a few photos.

     

    I don’t have many photos of the construction, but a few are below.


    IMG_0509.jpeg.b46460698f58a5a30f32cf960b7ee77f.jpeg

     

    IMG_0326.jpeg.51bac3a8f7ffc02593c61fc83acc72f9.jpeg

     

    IMG_0546.jpeg.ebf9b474e74d05f601b4d47f9c046967.jpeg

     

    IMG_0512.jpeg.312f67fb9067ed59f651be52aa6a7b10.jpeg

     

    best wishes,

     

    Iain

     

     

    • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  15. On 17/11/2023 at 16:21, Tony Wright said:

     

    9F92220.jpg.bbcd457cc450fea27b2f3b4935e99fd8.jpg

     

    And, of course, EVENING STAR herself - from Bachmann

     

    Good evening Tony,

     

    Catching up on the thread from a couple of weeks ago. This photo brought back wonderful memories of a day with you at LB, all too long ago.  I would love to revisit again one day, if and when it’s ok for you, and I have a few more things to bring along now.


    The Bachmann 92220 in your photo, which breezed through with 15 mainly kit-built carriages behind it, is pretty extensively modified:

     

    Extra weight for improved adhesion and haulage

    Loco-tender coupling as per your usual arrangement to reduce the gap 

    Loco lifting rings on front frames

    Correct pattern front coupling with extra link and bracket

    Vacuum pipe

    Remove steamheating pipe base from buffer beam

    GWR pattern lamp irons

    Buffer shank steps on loco and tender

    Remove NEM pocket from front bogie and fabricate spring and damper

    Gibson front bogie wheels

    Gibson smokebox door dart

    New handrails with correct pillars

    Comet front steps

    Cab doors (they're actually tender doors on the model and in real life....)

    Tender buffer beam details

    Tender coupling "goalpost"

    Nameplate and commemorative plate

    New injector pipework under fireman's side of cab

    Driver's side under cab pipework with Comet fittings and copper wire 

    Water pipes from tender to injectors 

    Remove steam heating fitting and pipe from side of firebox (only fitted in preservation)

    Detail copper pipes and chimney cap as copper not black or brass

    return crank adjustment

     

    Is it better than/as good as the new Hornby one? Almost certainly not, in many respects.  Most of what I did is covered by the exquisite detailing of the new one.  Although the under smokebox step needs to go unless you’re modelling 92220 in the last 18 months of active service.  There is also the bonus of there being at least some modelling in mine.  Another consideration is that while I am confident I can make a better looking, running and hauling Black 5 , Scot, Patriot, Jubilee or Coronation by building Comet frames than by using the rtr chassis, I definitely couldn’t guarantee making a similarly improved 9F. One reason is the complexity of 5 axles (that’s just something I haven’t yet done ) but another is the wheels available.   One day I might try. It’s not as if I have much more than Rule 1 to justify a 9F at Camden.
     

    Anyway, best wishes to you, Mo, and all WW readers and contributors.

     

    Iain

     

     

     

    • Like 14
    • Thanks 1
    • Friendly/supportive 1
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