Pebbles

I believe the first time the problem of the Proscale V2 firebox was raised was in Ron Goult's article in the October 1984 issue of the long gone "Practical Model Railways". This predated other reviews, or however they may be described, by over ten years.

Arthur I see from the other web site you sold some kits and that they have been well received. Pebbles

Arthur Thanks for the info. Pebbles

That's one very pretty engine. Arthur Will you be at any exhibitions in the near future?

Margate B12 had the same chassis as the loco drive Margate A3 of the 60's. Wheelbase was a scale 7'3" + 7'3". In the B12 the drive was on the leading axle on the chassis was reversed the drive being on the trailing axle. Other than bolted on attachments the main difference was the wheel size.

This does not directly relate to the Hornby model but, in the latest issue of "The Gresley Observer" there is a 10 page article entitled "COCK O'THE North and Dr HUGO LENTZ".

Yes I know, but I was confused by the Bogie wheel size.

Is this the Uniflow engine? only I thought that was numbered 2212.

Sorry but I'm now wittering. I've come across an adhesive called Methyl-Methacrylate. I got mine from Aldi, it's a two part adhesive, similar to epoxy, with a temperature resistant range of -40 to + 120 degrees C and stated to be highly suitable for plastics and smooth surfaces. Trust you may find this useful.

From Loctie's data sheet, Loctite 435 appears to be of the type to which I referred. The usual super glue hardens and becomes brittle over time. I have heard that some types of impact adhesives maybe the preferred option although I have no idea whether they would adhere to the type of plastic being used.

Recalling the problems of gluing plastic horn blocks to brass chassis, will gluing brass to plastic produce similar problems in the long term? Whilst I have not tried it for this type of purpose, there is a superglue used with rubber that has a greater "shock" resistance; I obtained mine from "Star Adhesives".

I have used a light dimmer switch to slow down a mains drill although it did loose power.

As I understand it the increase in length of the K4 over the K3 occurs behind the rear drivers. One idea for repairing the Bachmann footplate would be to file each side of the cut for about 6mm and to a depth of 0.75 mm. Using epoxy bridge the gap with 30th metal and when set make good.

Have you tried Dave Ellis for his King Arthur brake gear?

May I point out that the PDK kit appears to have been based (I have not had an opportunity to confirm this), on the plan published in Railway Modeller. This drawing has an incorrect running plate height which apart from the splashers should have been similar to the N15s. From photos the S15 class would appear to fall into three blocks. The original version had the cranked footplate and is largely separate. the Southern versions fall into two groups. The initial group were coupled to what I call the N15 tenders and the scallop in the cab side was aligned with this type. The second group was aligned to the welded Nelson tender and the reduced size of the scallop reflected this. I do appreciate that some S15s were coupled to six wheel tenders.