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Wayne Kinney

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted

    Hi Guys,

     

    OK, I wasn't going to post this, but his last line in this email seems to give me permission ..LOL

    I've never received an email from Andy Reichert before until my reply to his unbelievably arrogant post in this thread, yesterday. I say unbelievable until I got this email from him today:

     

    "Wayne,

     

    Attempted Order #3680, December 13, 2011 . I can't remember now if I caught that one in time.

     

    Attempted Order #7434, March 28, 2020

     

    Merely an immediate apology posted on the same RM Web topic is appropriate and will end any concern on my part.  Note I didn't make any reference to the timing of your N turnouts and 00 turnouts development cycles.

     

    Had you not intervened unasked in my reply to Martin Wynne, it would have become obvious that I was pointing out that his continual shutting out of the technology of flange support at common crossing vees as a much simpler alternative to gauge narrowing) was not universally accepted.

     

    If I don't see your apology in the next day or so, I'll assume you want me to post the corrected order details myself.

     

    Andy"

     

    Can you believe it? How jealous and desperate is he :D I don't understand it when his market is US!

     

    Seems he is bummed for getting banned from this topic. It's a shame because he does make some good products. It's just the attitude :( Makes me sad.

     

    I won't post about this anymore even if he emails me again. I understand the moderators POV on this petty arguing and I should be more professional but this email both shocked and amused me!

     

    OK, back on track, I'll get back to work now in CAD.. :D

     

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted

    Thanks SO MUCH guys for your lovely comments and input on next kits! Certainly makes my decision making easier.

     

    I believe after the diamonds, double slips & A5 turnouts in all 3 gauges this month, the next kit will be the single slip followed by the 1in7 standard crossover.

    I can then look at other angles (1in6, 1in8, 1in10).

     

    It's all coming together thanks to everyone's input over the years! THANKS! :)

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    Hi Guys,

     

    OK, I promised some eye candy to get this topic back on track. Below are some pictures of the EM Gauge 1in7 Diamond and 1in7 Double Slip kits:

    01_small.jpg.4d9cf773948b4f0d56763f1cf1e64a46.jpg02_small.jpg.911f8792494220daf66837faf2f87cf0.jpg03_small.jpg.6a060f0b75933a01c86acec394443129.jpg07_small.jpg.3eaedd9a220615bcbcf319dd4e93ac2f.jpg08_small.jpg.9faeedac175ea058d743a96952302f96.jpg05_small.jpg.2db59de9aad78f6d52421450918e8e69.jpg

     

     

     

    These should both be released this week, with 00 Gauge and 00-SF versions to follow the following week.

     

    Price of the Diamond kit is the same as a standard turnout at £22.99, the Double Slip kit is £39.

     

    I'm also wanting to get an A5 standard turnout kit released in all 3 gauges by the end of the month. I go on holiday beginning of April so want all this done before I leave :)

     

    What formations would you like to see next? I believe an A5 & B7 crossover would be sensible, but I'm looking for input! Maybe a single slip?

     

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    1 hour ago, Andy Reichert said:

     

    It's the one Wayne (British Finescale) keeps trying to order from me (proto87.com) :D :D:D

     

    Andy

     

     

    Whoa! Stop right there, my man! What the hell are you trying to imply?

     

    Are you referring to the ONE time I ordered one of your N Scale etched frogs back in Jan 2020? The order that you cancelled because you knew it was me?

     

    Why did you say 'keeps trying' for? I placed an order with you ONCE! You cancelled it. Sorry, but I've now heard enough! You are extremely arrogant indeed! You come into this thread about my product and seem to just wind everyone up? Why? Are you jealous?

     

    Well, you've finally done it to me, and you have actually p*ssed me off! I would invite you to go elsewhere, my "friend"!

     

    How bloody dare you! You certainly wouldn't say that to my face.

     

    Sorry everyone else for that rant!

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted

    9 minutes ago, KeithHC said:

    Wayne what is your timetable for new 00/EM kits please.

    OK, back to serious...:crazy:

     

    I will give more details this weekend. I'm in a great position, now. January and February were taken up with converting all the N Gauge range to the new system (a shite load of CAD work!), plus fulfilling all those new N Gauge orders. In addition, some big orders from the 2mm Scale Association, 3mm Scale society and the EM Gauge Society. I was a busy bee! :D

     

    This has now calmed down a little and I'm now set to move forward. With the changes I've made (All rail and the new tie bar design), this means I can really plough forward on new formations.

    I know I've been quiet over the last few months, but I'm really happy and excited and I hope this will show in what's coming up! :)

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted

    39 minutes ago, martin_wynne said:

    For example, here's a question for Wayne:

     

    Are the new all-rail kits supplied with the vee nose ready-blunted to the prototype width (3/4" for bullhead = 0.25mm), or is the rail supplied as-machined sharp and left to the builder to blunt it? It's important because the templates assume a prototypical blunt nose, and if left sharp the nose will overlap into fresh air between the timbers. The previous cast crossings had a prototypical blunt nose, and looked all the better for it:

    Hi Martin,

     

    Yes they are a little blunt, if they were left perfectly sharp it would break through the web of the rail and leave a 'fork' shape of only the head and foot left (as I'm sure you know, but putting the info on here for others).

     

    The way the 'chairs' that clamp the V's are designed means that the Point Rail V is 'wedged' into the correct location, meaning it's not the nose of the V that determines it's end stop position, it's the 'flat' of the milled section. This guarantees correct alignment weather or not the V's were perfectly sharp or overly blunt. So yes, if I left the V perfectly sharp, it would hang out over that timber.

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Andy Reichert said:

    I asked if that inferred there was a separate "00" version of the spacer for the "00" version of your turnout kit. It seems logical there should be, if only for consistent labelling, but Martin didn't answer that.

     

    My obviously relevant ongoing question is "what gauge are you using at the throw bar (and for the turnout ends for that matter) for the "00-SF" version of your turnout kit?"

     

    Apparently (see Siberian Snooper post) the much lauded as 00-SF Gordon S layout only used 16.2 mm gauge through the common crossings. So it's not clearly defined what gauge(s) an 00-SF turnout actually is supposed to be.

     

    On 03/03/2022 at 22:56, martin_wynne said:

    EM and 00-SF switch opening = 1.75 mm min (a 20p coin can be used as a spacer).

     

    Standard 00 switch opening = 2.0mm min (a 10p coin can be used as a spacer).

     

     

    Martin already answered, yes 00 Gauge version has a 2mm spacer. 

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted

    9 minutes ago, Chuffer Davies said:

    Kitchen foil! It is my answer to any situation where I want to prevent 2 pieces of touching metal from becoming soldered together.  In particular when creating the hinged join in coupling rods.   It is very thin and being made of aluminium won’t take lead solder.  If I was about to solder the pin to a blade I would definitely place a thin strip of aluminium between and under the stock rail and the blade.

    Frank

    Yes Yes Yes! It's so true and another great method.

     

    I was in two minds as to put extra steps in the instructions, one being tin foil the other a silicone grease barrier...

     

    Both work great, but I'm also thinking that it's not going to be an issue anyway...

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    47 minutes ago, PaulRhB said:

    Hi Wayne, that seems sensible and further why not solder on the spacer side so there’s no risk of soldering to the stock rail?
    I’ve done this method with pins on pcb points for years with a simple card spacer. 

     

    Just solder on this side

    1CA69F2F-D83A-40FE-85EB-DC6257A4B77B.jpeg.2969165db9fa6b7408641050437b2a93.jpeg

    Hi Paul,

     

    A very valid question and I am glad someone asked it!

     

    It seems sensible to solder the switch blade that is NOT in contact with the stock rail, as Paul suggest, as not to risk bonding the switch blade to the stock rail. Everything else being equal, this is the method I would have put forward.

     

    There is, however, more to it than that...mostly involving accuracy. Soldering the switch blade whilst in contact with the stock rail removes many small errors that build up resulting from twisted rail from wire drawing production or CNC machining tolerances milling the switch blades.

     

    Soldering the switch blade whilst sitting flush against the stock rail overcomes previous manufacturing tolerances, especially if the top of the blade is squeezed tight to the stock rail with a pair of tweezers whilst soldering the joint!

     

    If soldered the opposite way, as Paul suggests (which does initially make sense!), you may find that the switch blade doesn't sit nicely flush with the stock rail, but with a gap at the top of the rail head.

     

    So to summarise, the method I went for results in the most accuratly set switch blade, with perfect gap on one blade, and perfectly flush against the stock rail on the other....

     

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted · Edited by Wayne Kinney

    Hi Guys,

     

    Hope everyone is doing well!

     

    The British Finescale webstore will be reopening tomorrow (1st) so I can start taking orders of the 4mm kits again.

     

    I've used most of February to catch up with N Gauge, 2FS and 3mm stuff.

     

    I've also been looking into the design and I have made a change on the switch blades. After much thought into this, I have decided to change the design so that the kit builder solders the switch blades onto the tie bar pins themselves 'in situ'. I did propose this method back in October when I first announced the change to 'All Rail' design, but didn't actually change.

     

    A few things have developed since then, and there are 2 main reasons why I am changing this. Firstly, it does take much of my time up soldering 100's of switch blades. But more importantly, I am now testing the double slip kit and it's not working out accurately enough.

     

    The issue is, there are too many errors introduced with soldering switch blades to chair plates in a jig and then hoping that all 4 blades on the double slip will all line up where they should. It results in 1 blade being aligned but a gap still on the other, for example.

     

    Changing to soldering 'in situ' completely solves this, as any inaccuracies are taken up when soldering.

     

    I know many of you won't welcome the change, but I didn't make the decision lightly, believe me. Having said that, the process is actually very easy indeed! It's easier than soldering electrical feeds to the rail, in my honest opinion. It also looks better visually.

     

    I have updated the instructions, so below is an extract of these showing the process of installing the switch blades and soldering them to the tie bar pins:

     

    Tie Bar Assembly

    The kit contains a small bag that includes the main Tie Bar, 2 metal ‘headed’ pins and a Switch Blade ‘Spacer’. The ‘Spacer’ is used to maintain the correct gap between Switch Blade and Stock Rail when soldering the Switch Blades to the pins.

    DSC06294.JPG.51328b9b3d53842638b6d9924963512a.JPGDSC06295.JPG.5044146ddcac5318388b5f66afdd9c92.JPG

     

    The 2 metal pins are inserted through the pre drilled 0.4mm holes in the tie base.

    DSC06296.JPG.c06ec05543e46bed02ca204df4426795.JPGDSC06297.JPG.893a42165697621f9e9fa77f4544466e.JPG

    Make sure that the headed 2 pins are pushed all the way through until the heads of the pins are flush with the bottom of the tie bar. Then bend both pins by 90 degrees so that they face forward as shown above.

     

    DSC06298.JPG.95bd65ad1897a21beee7b411a83b0b35.JPGDSC06299.JPG.2695a1edb648e295a0396e06757719e8.JPG

    The pins can then be cut short leaving about 2 – 3mm of length as shown above.

     

     

    Fitting Tie Bar and Stock Rails

    The assembled Tie Bar can now be placed on the Turnout Base between the last 2 Slide Chairs. It will locate into the slots as shown in the picture below:

    DSC06300.JPG.821d689c7310d139166144ae6867cd82.JPG

    Once the Tie Bar is in place, both Stock Rails can then be inserted from either end of the turnout. Care must be taken so each Stock Rail slides over the Tie Bar. The Tie Bar must be free to slide under the Stock Rails when operating the Switch Blades.

    DSC06301.JPG.aaceb29660975c15df571894b8484d9d.JPGDSC06302.JPG.3cc0a8aefba4f027a1b1be48c7280da1.JPG

    Fitting Switch Blades

    The Switch Blades are packaged with a plastic protector fitted to the end to prevent damage to the fine edges at each tip. Carefully slide each Switch Blade out of the protective clip.

     

    Each Switch Blade can be offered-up to the base and cut to length. When the tip of the Switch Blade is lined up over the last Slide Chair, there needs to be an ‘isolating gap’ between the Switch Blade Rail and the Closure Rail. Once cut to size and the rail end filed and chamfered, each Switch Blade can be slid into the chairs and into place.

    DSC06303.JPG.2ee74879320c6cb4409e2c12db736a91.JPGDSC06304.JPG.db48abf5b7cfbbd6f507d5863f02b2da.JPG

     

    Soldering Switch Blades to Tie Bar Pins

    A small Switch Blade ‘Spacer’ is provided. This ‘Spacer’ is used to maintain the correct gap between Switch Blade and Stock Rail when soldering the Switch Blades to the pins. It has a slot in the middle which clips onto the Stock Rail. One end is raised to give clearance for the Slide Chair (the ‘Spacer’ pictured is for EM/00-SF).

    DSC06305.JPG.d394c9c9ac8a62315aac23b5e5047cc4.JPG

     

    The Spacer can be clipped onto one stock rail while its adjacent Switch Blade is held open.

    DSC06306.JPG.5c31c0377af6d8680134a74d8a0956e4.JPG

    Once in position, the Spacer holds the Switch Blade open at the correct gap. The other Switch Blade remains against its Stock Rail.

    DSC06307.JPG.aa085e416526525e8cb5c34d9559d940.JPG

    Soldering is done while the Switch Blade sits flush against the Stock Rail as this ensures best alignment. If you notice a gap between Switch Blade and Stock Rail, this can be taken up by squeezing them together at the top of the rail head with a small pair of tweezers, whilst soldering.

     

    A small amount of Soldering Flux can then be applied to the Pin and Switch Blade. With a small amount of solder applied to the tip of the soldering iron, touch the pin with the tip of the iron and then up against the Switch Blade. The solder will flow with the help of the flux and a soldered joint with be created.

    DSC06308.JPG.532268d799ee6031184af288bf3b2a03.JPGDSC06309.JPG.b23bb342d5dbeb6a258ff9d06a2a3848.JPG

     

    NOTE: Please only use a small amount of solder, otherwise there is a risk of solder flowing under the Switch Blade and bonding the Switch Blade to the Stock Rail.

     

    The same can then be repeated for the other Switch Blade. Move the ‘Spacer’ to the other Stock Rail which will hold the Switch Blade you just soldered open at the correct gap.

     

    DSC06310.JPG.bc7145fa007be973ca9c01984a624aac.JPGDSC06311.JPG.af27ff77ce2de7ed87c0c007a7db233b.JPGDSC06312.JPG.3cc15f01e82ac630bf70cbbd06445766.JPG

     

     

    I feel the above method is clean and tidy and results in a better looking and more accurate turnout!

    P.S - Go easy on me, guys! 😄

     

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    Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

    in Handbuilt Track & Templot

    Posted

    Hi Guys,

     

    Just a little update. I previously mentioned that I have been working this month on converting the N Gauge range over to the new Easy Build style of kit. This has taken up much more time than I anticipated, this month!

     

    I've had a huge amount of N Gauge orders in the new Easy Build style (for which I am extremely grateful!), so much so that I've decided to close the webstore temporarily to allow me to catch up.

     

    This will surely push things back on the 4mm stuff, I'm afraid. But the good news is that since 7th January, I've created 10 different N Gauge kits from scratch, including all CAD work, templates and instructions and shipping them, in only 3 weeks!

     

    This really shows how much faster the new 'All Rail' design allows me to create and release new formations in any Gauge. So once things calm down with the N Gauge range, I'll be ploughing on with the 4mm stuff!

     

    Keep routing for me, guys! :)

     

     

     

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