steve W

Paul's post of the Port Warren layout above highlights the point motors used on this layout. They were the first application of the stall motor that we had tried (in 1989) and initially the motors were put on a strenuous cycling and stall test to prove that they did not overheat. Reliability was excellent and they were also used on several other layouts subsequently, including the (S4) Gilbertstone Quaries, Tidmeric Minerals (0-14) and the subsequent 7mm layout Watersfield and now Addison Road. So successful were they (Tidmeric Minerals did over 100 shows in the UK and Europe without a single failure of a motor) that the original motors have been moved from layout to layout so that Addison Road still have original motors in use, supplemented by some newer and smaller versions obtained from scrapped ATM cash machines where they were used to draw your card into the ATM. Out side of the Club the original motors are in use on three other layouts including my 0n30 'Clearwater Harbor, Rivendell (0-16.5) and the Orange River and Portland 'FN3' (Finescale US 3ft narrow gauge, 1:20.3 scale). They work just as well on Peco G scale points as handbuilt S4. This is the underside of Addison Road showing the newer ex ATM motors. The current limiting resistor is just visible behind the centre terminal connector. In this use with handbuilt fine scale track a linear movement on the connection to the tiebar was required so Exactoscale bases were modified as a mounting. Frog switching is done by relays.

Yep, like the other comments I think it looks pretty good. My experience of dock areas is fairly broad and in reality the water colour can be everything from thick brown through blue green and grey depending on the light, depth and pollution. Compared to the mid 70's and before, today's rivers and coastal waters tend to be a lot cleaner, oil films which used to be a common site in harbours are now almost absent, likewise the amount of debris floating or submerged. I would not add anything too light in colour to your scene. Half a dozen coats of clear varnish will help and the light will naturally reflect off the high points. I've often looked at Paul Lunn's book and thought that this was one plan I would like a go at sometime. You've beaten me to it and a splendid job it is.

My thanks to everyone who participated and helped organise it, an excellent day in, learnt a lot and was inspired a lot. Cheers!

..... it were a ...... Ginst.....................

Been there and done that. Rubbed a gate leaving the club, fortunately there were years of thick black paint on it so no real damage. Stopped for 'T-Cut' along the way and spent a while in Germany making good. The Humbrol came up just right and found plenty of muddy puddles on the way home to 'weather it'. Fixed

Yes they will cook in a very short time, but a much longer time than that neccesary to operate. With regards to your quoted paragraph, Don's words were in respect of the wire size not the solenoid coil itself and are entirely correct. "It is why CDU's are recommended" Who reccomends? The primary purpose of the CDU is to store and make available more energy than that available immediately from a power source. That enables one or more solenoids to operate, but no better than a very large transformer would. The CDU automatically limits the supply by virtue of it's discharge and is a bonus that protects coils from jammed switch contacts on cheap and cheerful 'passing contact' switches. It also reduces sparking from switches (making them less likey to fail in the first place) for the same reason. The use of a CDU is of course a good thing, but for many different reasons. An adequate wire size though is essential.

Reinvigorated with some lovely virtual cake, particularlry liked the lemon one , I have been thinking about this a bit more. The club 00 layout always use 24/02 for runs of three /four feet from the CDU, so in your case of seven feet, my thoughts are that it should be up in that region of size at least. The thought that then occured to me is that as you are using an electric pencil/stud contact method of operation you also have to consider complete distance of CDU output -> control panel -> the diode matrix -> and then to the point motor and back to the CDU in your length of circuit. Was this included in the 7ft length? If it was not then I would seriously consider using 12V DC on the stud contact to operate relays, one per route, the relay contact connects the CDU to the diode matrix and point motors. The CDU and diodes being located as close to the point motors as possible. This would be another thread, but happy to advise if neccessary. cheers Steve W

Surreal situation, a short distance behind the photographer the line crosses the Mississippi. Not far off shore the bridge ihas an opening swing section for river traffic to add to the excitement. Not a line for junior's high speed Thomas the tank engine to be let loose on.

If you are using multipls of 7/02, the add a 3rd or fourth one if you've got enough wire. They won't solder to the pm but a screw connection and single wire for the last couple of inches will help

I'm rushing around at the moment, so only a quick read. Is there a very long wire to this point motor eg more than one/two foot from the CDU? If this is a thin wire , say 7.0,2 or even 16/,o2 the resistance in the wire may be limiting the ability of the point motor to work. Try running an extra one or two wires on both the coil and return wires and retry. Cheers Steve W

Ok, not a fix but possibly narrow it down a wee bit: 5. When (as a test) I cut the input side of the diodes (to remove the connection to the input block) it also fired from the input side. Taking this as the case and assuming all other outputs are connected, it would seem probable that the problem is in the area between the input wire terminal block and the diode input, assuming the circuit from the stud probe contact to terminal block is OK. -Check both wires on the screw terminal block that the insulation is not trapped under the screw and therefore possibly not making a connection. - Check track 3 of the vereo board where the short blue wire and diodes connect. In the picture of the underside of the board there is a connection on this track, second hole up from the bottom of the group, that looks as though it might be shorting to the 2nd track (might just be the angle of the picture of course). Reflow the solder joints just to make sure all is well. Are you using lead free solder? This can be notoriously difficult to get a good joint. I very seldom use these point motors but would have thought that six solenoids working together would require a very large capacitor to work, but it should go with all the others temporarliy disconnected. As an aside, I note you have cut the copper tracks where needed with a very thin cut. It may not be your problem here, but tiny bits of copper are easily left behind and can form almost invisible short circuits. Better to use a drill bit ~4mm dia hand held or in a cork or wood handle and twist it in the hole for a better and more visible gap. Best of luck Steve W.

Oooh! that looks a very promising way to deal with your temporary 'house arrest'. For my sins Iv'e been given a list of of chores to complete, so probably not much modelling. Looking forward to see how it comes along. Steve W.

T&D MRC has cancelled all meetings, but we are ready to re-start as soon as we get the signal. Stay safe everyone, we hope to welcome you to the Club later in the year. Steve W.

Currently bidding at £10,100. It's out of my price range so think I will just send the seller the stuff it's designed to be used with in case she has any unsold rolls.

Metro paper reporting panic buying of guns in the USA and long queues to get cannabis in Holland. I don't feel so guilty now for getting an extra bottle of gin to see me though a period of govenment house arrest

No, but look again at Knowlton Halt shelter. They did spend a few bob on the canopy and valencing around it. Proper station style.

In this situation traction motors seem irrelevant! - Given the stated ownership and pedigree of Bob White, providing a switchboard with synching equipment if it's required won't be an issue. Looking at the size of plant this outfit work with, they may well be used for testing purposes and not connected to the grid supply. The first time I heard of this type of use for locos was a Canadian article back about 1995- 2000 when a loco was lifted off the tracks and run along a street under it's own power to ultimately provide emergency power to the public network during a big freeze. Can't remember exactly where, but they were clearly able to meet domestic supply frequency requirments.

Two things on the subject of the multimeter: 1. DO mark the selector switch with some good white paint at the end of the raised bar that has a mark to indicate the selected range. I have had a situation where a trained engineer with a similar instrument thought he had selected 250AC Volts, but had accidentally selected a low Ohms resistance range on the opposite side of the selector dial - the knob was 180deg out of alignment. Serious burns to his hand when it blew up. On the layout it won't self destruct, but could be irrepairably damaged 2. DON'T risk it on mains voltage circuits unless you know and are confident (and will have spent a considerable amount of money) that it has been built and tested to withstand any possible fault that can occur (see 1 above). It should be fine for all uses on the layout though. Get to know it, it's a valuable tool to have.

YES! you get 17/10 . On Jan 10 is a nice pic with two fully assembled platform lights. Now, in the pic above, one has succombed to weather/rust/ bored youths/ ....and resides on the platform in the grass, never to be replaced I suspect. Well done, terrific build. Steve W.

Thanks for all the hardwork by the organising teams over the years. As a regular visitor and occasional exhibitor since the days at the Town Hall this has been the must attend if possible show. I will be looking forward to whatever can be arranged in the future. Steve Waterfield ('Clearwater Harbor')

Then 'Sculptamold' is probably one of the better options. (EDM Models is one source) It's fibrous texture gives it flexible strength and lightness. When dry it is very easy to sand smooth if neccesary. It also has the advantage that wetting it allows it to be reworked if neccesary e.g. adding the Faller guide wire. I have found plain 'Sculptamold' to drag and be a bit 'sticky' when trying to get a flat surface (possibly being impatient and not waiting for it to partially set first) and this is where adding 30-50% vermiculite with a drop of pva ('goop' mix) has worked to make a better spreading mix that can be sanded smooth when dry. Steve

Ah! spent quite a bit of time at Boscarne inthat period, had a camera (a poor one) and never did get any good pictures ... all memories now, that's why there's a railbus on the shelf! Lovely bit of modelling, captures it very well indeed.

Dental plaster for high definition rock castings. On the current scene Woodland Scenics 'Lightweight Hydrocal' C1201 is a general purpose modelling plaster and a for a bit of rock carving, they also do one for casting rocks. Both good, but If it's simply terrain covering then I no longer use plaster as they are all too brittle with baseboards banging around in transit. Instead we picked up on an American recipe that works very well and remains somewhat flexible known as 'goop'. Briefly, 50% each 'Sculptamold' or similar cellulose plaster and 'reptile grade' vermiculite (used for incubating reptile eggs), a blob of white PVA and emulsion paint. Mix to with a drop of water to give a stiff spreadable mix. Takes all kinds of scenic treatment, more details if required. ('Modroc' is the plaster bandage stuff) Steve

So do I. Iv'e got one on the shelf without a purpose and having watched this splendid build I'm eyeing up a spare bit of plywood in the shed! Steve W

You need one resistor for each LED that is lit at any one time, so a minimum of five connected as shown below. A better and neater option is one in each LED line with the 12V taken directly to the switch wipers, then if you reconfigure the signals at any time the LED's are protected. The double head signals in yr diagram share a common return line, so you can't fit the resistor in the black return line. 1KOhm .25W resistors are 99p for 20 on Ebay so extra ones are not a big cost issue. Increase resistor size if too bright.