resin001

I currently have 3 of these Servo's controlling 2 signals and 1 Peco Turnout ( surface mounted due to space restrictions ) - I am using a ESU Switchpilot v2.0 servo output for the latter without any issue . I did have one servo failure , but this was a dud servo on receipt and was replaced by the vendor. For signals I control my servo's using a GF servo control board ( 2 x 1.7g Servo's and 6 x 9 g Servo's )

Thanks for your reply , Middlepeak , I will tweak mine a bit more

A question , if I may , regarding Hornblocks from High level Kits . I have assembled a set of these and want to seek clarification as to how tight the bearing should be in the guide . I can move the bearing up and down using an axle but it has a fair degree of resistance - is this correct or should it be loose enough to drop under its own weight onto the keeper wire ?

Hi Richard The Moleroda polishing discs will last longer if you use minimum of 3 discs on the mandrel - As per several U tube video’s Fantastic work - your loco looks great so far regards Robert

Missing ducket arrived in the post this morning- thanks Hornby

Hi Tony Having read your post again , the Roco couplings may not be a solution as they are designed to fit in NEM pockets and you mention that your couplings are secured with a phillips screw . Is there space to fit an NEM pocket ?

Hi Tony I had the same issue with derailments as you are experiencing. I solved this by using the Hornby Roco style couplings ( R8220 ) . For closer coupling I actually use the Hornby style on one coach and the original Roco coupling on the other coach , the Roco coupling is slightly shorter. Recent Hornby coaches that I have purchased include both tension lock and Roco style couplings. I tried Kadee couplings but they also cause derailments on longer coach rakes.

The photo on Hornby's web site also shows the ducket missing from the Brake Coach

Received my full brake from Hattons today ; also missing the ducket , otherwise it looks ok - swapped the wheels for Bachmann ( Hornby wheel spec changed a while back - they ride on the sleeper chairs when using C&L Finescale track )

Hi JZ There was some discussion on this forum relating to Lenz decoders fitted to the Heljan WM railbus a few years ago - I had similar experiences to you and eventually exchanged the Lenz decoder with a Lokpilot v4 and all the issues were fixed. The Lenz decoder was transferred to a Hornby loco and that still performs perfectly Regards Bob

Hi Dave I intend to fit a new tender coupling bar as the gap is to wide for my liking , I will fabricate my own from metal strip - I did attempt to close the gap using the Hornby bar but it snagged against the tender power socket !

Has anyone else had an issue with the front bogie wheels on their loco ? In my case Sir William A Stanier FRS I use C&L Finescale 00 gauge track and noticed that the bogie wheels run on top of the rail chairs resulting in an unwanted clicking noise and a nodding donkey effect at the front of the loco ! I have never had this issue with any other Hornby loco including the LMS version of Duchess of Montrose and BR City of Leicester or City of Leeds I have replaced these with Gibson wheels and cured the problem and as such am very pleased . I checked the outer rim diameter of the wheels - they are 14.15mm compared with recent Hornby Duchess wheels at 13.92mm and Gibson wheels which are 13.14mm.

I purchased Hardwick Grange, R2402 from new in October 2006. A few months ago I noticed that the front buffer beam was inclined at about 45 degrees and there was a large gap between the cylinders and the footplate. I tried to remove the chassis from the body but it was a very tight fit , eventually I managed to free it but it would not go back - I had to remove approx 2mm from the front of the chassis casting to get it to fit smoothly , fortunately it now seats properly and more importantly runs very smooth. This metal expansion is a known form of Mazak Rot . I also had a similar issue with the Hornby Royal Scot ( Black Watch )

Received my LNER version this morning , has anyone fitted a sound decoder yet? If so any recommendations for a suitable sound file? I have not seen a specific decoder for this loco Bob

Hi Alan I fitted the lokpilot 54615 decoder , this was the only Lokpilot 21 pin version stocked at my usual outlet . I have adjusted C5 to 75 and this gives me a reasonable top speed ( cv 6 mid point set at 40 ) If you go this route then as I have done you can dim the lights as well , my CV settings : cv31=16 , cv32=0,cv262=6,cv270=6,cv278=31 Regards Bob

Alan I had the same issue with the Lenz decoder and then like you fitted a Bachmannn decoder with the same results , I have now fitted an ESU lokpilot decoder and this works as it should with the added advantage that you can also dim those really bright headlamps

I have managed to fit interior lights and working oil lamps all controlled by DCC using a Lenz standard decoder + dcc antiflicker unit from Express models . I used fine decoder wire also supplied by Express models. There is a reasonable amount of space between the chassis and the interior floor moulding to run the wire. Antiflicker board located in the kitchen area and the decoder makes a nice table when covered with plastikard. Body fitted back OK apart from the door handles which popped off , but this appears to be a common issue

Wow As a Tamworth resident this has to be excellent news - West Coast main line - North East / South West main line - High level station - Low level station - Wilnecote station - HS2 London to Manchester - HS2 London to Leeds All within walking distance - bring it on

Received my model today - Roedeer in LNER black livery - looks very good in my opinion. A couple of points though relating to adding the supplied detail parts - The front coupling fouls the NEM socket as does the base of the steam pipe , the latter causing the front bogie to derail on my 600mm radius curve ! In my opinion the NEM socket is too far forward - I use Kadee couplings - In this case No 18 on the tender and No 17 on the front to give the correct position for my use. I will remove the chain links from the coupling ( just use the hook ) and trim the steam pipe accordingly. The NEM socket is a solid attachement to the bogie and would be difficult to trim or remove. Finally , if you remove the capacitor be very careful, I managed to detach both wires as well - now soldered back up and working perfectly.