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hayfield

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Blog Entries posted by hayfield

  1. hayfield
    I have started to build up the north lights
     

     
    A backing piece of 15 thou, then 2mm strips to build up the window bar detail. I then cut out the window blanks then added 1mm bars on top of the 2mm bars. Hopefully once the bars are painted they will look a bit thinner. Only 40 more to make.
     
     

     
    I have champhered the tops of the lower pelmet, on the picture the added depth this detail makes is not as noticeable as it is in the flesh. I now need to saw the brick courses in.
  2. hayfield
    A quiet 2 weeks plus as I have been on my hols, walking in the peaks and a quiet week in Kent.
     
    Visited both the Peak rail centre which for me was good for photos of a few wagons and the coach preservation shed and The Midland Railway centre at Swawick. loved the Midland museum the shed with the Duchess and Princess along with the replica buildings being constructed.
     

     
    I have a couple of K's 6 wheelers to rebuild and seeing how the straps and rods fit together will assist
     

     
    Inside of the Royal carrage
     

     
    Someone out there is copying my modelling skills
     
    The second week we visited the KESR misses again that P class only got a view from the elevated viewing area at Rolvenden.
     
    And also the Romney Hythe and Dymchurch railway. At onetime if it were not full scale and GWR I would turn my nose up at it. But seeing they run over the past 2 yeard at Dungerness, New Romney and Hythe was very enyoyable, in fact they put some of the preserved railways to shame.
     
     
    I used to think of them as models, but am realising they are engins in their own right
     

  3. hayfield
    I have started to build up the cylinders, they are now glued together and I have started the filling process with Milliput. More filling is required along with rebuilding the cylinder fronts.
     

     
    I also need to work out whow high the cylinders should be.
     

     
    They are just a push fit into the chassis / body at the moment.
     
    Next job is to rebuild the crossheads
  4. hayfield
    This picture shows the lumps of Milliput which I have used to build up the gap on the corner of the coal rails on one side and level up the poor fit on the other side. Also some other bits filling the joins above the buffer beam.
     

     
    I used a mini drill to level the tender sides on the inside, then I filed the filler flat with the body. I used a razor saw to start the gaps between the coal rails followed by a needle to open up the gap. All looks fine now.
     

     
    Poor picture but shows the cylinders taking shape, should have been 5 parts but ended up as 8 parts. I will fit the slide rods before attaching the cylinder sides. Then try and fathom how the fit the cylinder assembly to the chassis
  5. hayfield
    Last night I tried to get the chassis working with the front bogies. Those early locos builders never took us 4mm modelers into consideration when designing their locos. There are a lot of wheels to get into a small space.
     

     
    Unlike most kits the front bogie is attached to the chassis from a bolt above the centre of the bogie, there is a cast section which glues to the chassis. It also holds the cylinders.
     
    Like everything with this kit nothing seems to fit. On reflection the cylinders or rather the 2 parts which are still left on the casting, stop it from sitting flush with the footplate, I had to pack the back of the chassis by 1mm to level it. The wheels look like they should go into the body a bit more.
     
    Luckerly the offending part will come away from the chassis without too much trouble. I will get the casting into some boiling water and hopefully the 2 cylinder parts will fall off. I think the builder either fitted the cylinders up side down or incorectly. Still the first job is to get the chassis fitting snugly with the body and working. Then I can have a go at the cylinders.
     
    This afternoon I have made a start with the tender, unfortunatly the builders file has been at the tender parts as well, plenty of filling is required with this item as well.
  6. hayfield
    The second attempt to secure the gear wheel to the axle seems to have worked, as there is no slipping. I took each wheel off in turn, trimmed and adjusted the pickups, greased the bearings and replaced the wheels.
     

     
    As I watched the loco go up and down the track the rear drivers were not turning, the 2 small rear wheels were lower than the rear drivers by a fraction so a small amount of fileing sorted this out. The front bit of the footplate where the cylinders go needs building up,as its been badly filed. So some filler had been added, this needs to dry for a day or so.
     
    Tomorrow I will sort out the front bogies, start building the tender and do a bit more to the body
  7. hayfield
    Well I have given the gears 1 more go, I took the 2 wheels off and took the axle out, degreased all the parts including the chassis and motor bearings. Re-drilled the holes, then reassembled the parts. I dropped epoxy down the holes and rotated them hopefully dragging the epoxy down arround the axle. I will now give it a day to cure.
     
    Had a few bits arrive in the post yesterday. I brought an old Eames Prairie loco some time ago. Someone decided to rebuild the chassis, well they got as far as fitting a new set of Romfords but lost all the other parts. I notiiced on Ebay an Airfix plastic kit with a motorising chassis on it (minus motor and gears) took a bit of a leap of faith. Well the chassis seems well built and the wheels and motion run freely, the front fixing is in the correct place just need a new rear fixing plate.
     
    At the same time brought a Comet coach part built, poor photo and description. Well it turns out to be a BR mk1 compo. Needs buffers roof and underframe details, its been very well put together.
     

     
    Also I brought a Southeastern Finecast M7 with wheels and motor along with a Wills etched M7 chassis (need this to replace an old Wills cast chassis). So been looking at my new bits.
  8. hayfield
    Very slow progress last week, if any at all. As I have been building turnouts for someone else.
     
    I cleaned the chassis, then primed it and sprayed it, but the paint is wearing off at the edges. Should have given it a better clean using Fairy Liquid rather than a wash in white spirit. Still once the chassis is finished I will touch up the parts with a brush.
     

     
    The gear wheel on the axle has lost most of its grip (its a push fit), because of the space between the frames gluing it to the axle first is not an option. I drilled a couple of holes in the side of the gear and dropped superglue into them. It was a bit better then I drilled out one and put some epoxy in it. Its not locked on but a bit tighter. I may have to find another gear set.
     
    Glued a PCB board on to the chassis to fit the pickups on to tomorrow night, when I may be able to fit the pickups. Lets hope the heat soldering them on will not effect the glue.
  9. hayfield
    A realy slow week modelling, time has been short during the week and the past 2 weekends, also I have spent a bit of time fitting a motor into a Deelet 999 / class 3 which I won on Ebay. The chassis now works, the body needs rebuilding but that will be another story.
     
    I have stripped the Atlantics body and primed it. hopefully will be able to spray it black tomorrow.
  10. hayfield
    The weekend has been busy, however the bottom of the side has been built up and re-fitted. Its a bit straighter now.
     
    The additional filling on the front of the footplate has come off, so I will try again tonight. At some point I will have to address the cylinders, but that will be the last job. There are a couple of bits missing so I will try and check the parts.
     
    I now have a copy of the k's body parts sheet, unfortunatly no details of the bogie or cylinders.
  11. hayfield
    Not much done tonight, other than 3 out of the 4 splashers fitted, filler in the roof joins and firebox side. Also I decided to add a bit more filler to the rebuilt splasher to get a smother finish, before that I used a round grinding stone on the mini drill to shape the rear of it.
     

  12. hayfield
    I have had some time to do some modelling today, I finished off an EM faceing crossover and gave a K's J72 a final coat of LNER green then picked up the Wills 2 road enging shed I started building last week.
     

     
    This is where I finished last week with the 1st wall propped up against the mockup. Tonight I managed to build the second wall
     
    I have taken out the first two bays of the mockup just to see how the progress todate fits in with the temporary track plan. The plan is still OK but the point work will need adjusting as I have built the 1st shed wall 1 window bay extra.
     
    I need another shed kit to finish off the walls and several roof packs. I went into the loft and found some Wills packs. Wall sections with windows, plain bond brickwork and tiles, great I thought I can get on with the build without waiting for the extra kit to arrive. Wrong as the wall sections I have with windows are English bond not plain bond. Still it will give me time to add extra details and work on keeping the roof in the air where the interior of the shed will be open without walls.
  13. hayfield
    Not much has happened recently, like everyone else work and social life has got in the way.
     

     
    The shell is now stiff enough for me to finalise the position, I have also now worked out the track positions.
     
    I was hoping to be able to cut out the inspection pits today but have been distracted and it is too dark outside to cut them out.
     
    Still I am now in a position to work on which ever part of the layout takes my fancy.
     
    I can carry on with the shed building, with either continueing the slates, make the northlights/ smoke jacks or detail the building sides.
     
    Or build the 3 remaining turnouts which are outstanding. Or cut out the inspection pits and start track laying.
     
    Now to clear up the work bench after a spot of trach building for someone else
  14. hayfield
    The walls looked a bit stark, so I decided to see if a plynth at the bottom of the walls would look better. It breaks up the wall quite well (looks better in real life where depth is more apparent), I will bevel the tops once the solvent fully drys.

    Window sills have been added , and will also be beveled. Windows are tacked in place (well I hope they are).
     
    Have added a horizontal barge board under the capping, as it looks better being there rather than a bare wall. I think I will put this on the front wall under the capping for the same reason.
     

     
    Now to carry on with the roof's and I hust find my microstrip so I can start the north lights.
  15. hayfield
    Over the past few weeks work and other things have got in the way of progress. The first turnout is built and tested, this was the easy one as it is a straight B6, nice and simple.
     
    Over the past couple of nights I have worked our where each wall meets the sides and fixed them together. Now on to the roofs.
     

     
    I have started at the rear first with the 2 single spans. The rear gentler slope is easy but it is the steeper one with the north lights I need to work out. I decided to make them in 3 sections, top and bottom in full length and the middle the width required. these are all glued in and waiting for the solvent to harden, so I can file the tops flat to fit the capping.
     
    I thought about makeing the roof a seperate lift off section, but decided to make the whole building lift off. Walls still need the bottom vallance fitting, window sills, windows etc. I an just trying out the different parts wall capping, bargeboards etc to see how they look and they are just lightly tacked in place.
     
    I have 2 tileing sheets which were stuck together to make a double span drying/hardening to start the next section, I will make a couple of the Wills smoke jacks to see how they look and have a go at the north light windows themselves.
     
    Now I know the exact size of the shed I can finalise the curves to the approach tracksEven though I extended the shed by 1 Bay, it seens to have shrunk about 3/4" from my initial estimates. I am still toying about whether to fit inspection pits inside or out.
     
    Hopefully I will be able to do some more tomorrow afternoon.
  16. hayfield
    Following a question I have shown my simple chassis arrangements. Its not going to please the rivet counters but then again I do not think they would use a MTK kit. The seats are old MTK ones for a DMU so are not quite correct.

     
    The main part of the chassis is a piece of PCB board,I then soldered 2 coach W irons to it. I made a motor mount from some brass sheet and added a DC10 motor with 30/1 Romford gears. I added 2 square bits of brassbetween the W irons for added stiffness. 8ba bolts soldered to bits of brass, which were then stuck to each end of the body. A hole is cut into the PCB board to allow the worm gear into the body and part of the motor, which fits flush with the floor, a High Level kit may keep all below deck but once the seats are in place nothing can be seen
     

     
    All I now need to fit are PB strips to act as wipers on the wheels, and cut the very botom part of the W irons off to hide them.

    For the Bristol Railcar I may use the High Level kits PaceMaker traction pack http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/ The good part about these kits is all you have is 4 sides so you can fit what you want to it as its up to you what you do. The floor can even be 1 piece which is either stuck or soldered in place.
     
    Its nice to have something a bit different, and in fact could command a small diorama layout of its own. The diorama could be no more than 3' long and 6" to 9" wide, I could use 4 different railcars, 1 rail bus, a GWR and LMS push pull units. A bit bigger then 2 car DMu & EMU could be used.
     
    A good site is the Railcar Ass http://www.railcar.co.uk/.
  17. hayfield
    Been at the in laws this weekend and got the farther in law to letter half a dozen locos, unfortunatly I told him to put the wrong size LNER transfers on the loco.
     

     
    The body needs a bit of a clean up, (black paint would not set), if it cleans up OK then I will leave alone or I might try and life the transfers and put smaller ones on. If not it might be a repaint job. All the other locos were fine I just made a mistake on this one.
  18. hayfield
    As I said The loco has been sprayed black and have started to paint the cab, buffer beams etc. Going away to see the inlaws for a few days and hope to get the farther in law to help me letter this loco and a few others. Mad rush last night to finish off painting a couple of other locos and get my bits together.
  19. hayfield
    Over the weekend I finished building the loco, the most tedious job was to make the steps from brass sheet. I swapped the split pins for brass hand rail knobs. Fitted etched rear window grills and I fitted some whitemetal steam pipes.

     
     
    For the past few nights I have undercoated and sprayed the loco gloss black, I will now pick out the buffer beams and other items which need painting different colours and will number and letter the loco over the weekend, then a coat of satin varnish will tone the loco down.
  20. hayfield
    View from the fiddle yard
     
    The track will be SMP flexi track and (C&L) copper clad built turnouts all in 00, I thought about making them from C&L plastic parts but I decided against this
  21. hayfield
    I am building a shelf layout in my workroom as a test bench for my locos, storage for them and to play trains. My main interests in the hoby is building whitemetal loco kits and building turnouts.
     
    The space I had available was 5' 3" long by 12" at one end and 18" at the other. Locos would enter the layout from the right from a fiddle yard (which would be hidden from view by a coaling plant) under a road bridge on one of 3 tracks. On the left hans side will be a 6 road engine shed and a head shunt for the coaling stage.
     
    I built the board and played around with various track plans, once set on a plan I built a mockup of the shed in card based on the Wills 2 road kit
     
    Once settled on the plan I started to build the walls
     
    Monday morning my local shop had some cork sheet in so I layed this last night and as I had built a second wall on Monday I could put the shed in place and double check the track plan
     
    The track plan need slight adjustment and I need to buy another shed kit to build the next bay.
  22. hayfield
    Latest loco on my workbench is a Keyser
     
    LNER J72
     
    Now in the garage after having a coat of apple green for each of the past 3 days. As per my entry on the last web I need to adjust the chassis as one of the spacers is stoping the motor sitting flat enough. So out with the slitting disc and reduce the size of it.
     
    The chassis is one I got off Ebay, I have had to swap motors and change a Comet gear box for a simple motor mount, so that the cab can be kept relatively clear of motors.
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