hayfield

The details will be found as per Bernard's reply in the GWR Coach Books. Russells work comes to mind. In my book only a couple in GWR livery, the other variation has the GWR round logo under the second window from the left, Python with tare under the left hand window at the very bottom of the side with XP and number at the bottom of the right hand side right of the right hand window. Someone may help with an articles in the Model Railway Constructor Jun-79 as it has Modelling notes, also MRC July 1976

Not much has happened recently, like everyone else work and social life has got in the way. The shell is now stiff enough for me to finalise the position, I have also now worked out the track positions. I was hoping to be able to cut out the inspection pits today but have been distracted and it is too dark outside to cut them out. Still I am now in a position to work on which ever part of the layout takes my fancy. I can carry on with the shed building, with either continueing the slates, make the northlights/ smoke jacks or detail the building sides. Or build the 3 remaining turnouts which are outstanding. Or cut out the inspection pits and start track laying. Now to clear up the work bench after a spot of trach building for someone else

The walls looked a bit stark, so I decided to see if a plynth at the bottom of the walls would look better. It breaks up the wall quite well (looks better in real life where depth is more apparent), I will bevel the tops once the solvent fully drys. Window sills have been added , and will also be beveled. Windows are tacked in place (well I hope they are). Have added a horizontal barge board under the capping, as it looks better being there rather than a bare wall. I think I will put this on the front wall under the capping for the same reason. Now to carry on with the roof's and I hust find my microstrip so I can start the north lights.

Turkey Thanks for the tip, I have not built any yet but the moldings do not seem to be up the the quality of the other parts. I need to buy 4 more sprues as said for the capping, Hope Wills are able to supply. These smoke jacks seem to be a bit small ? I will have a look at a few of my books to see if there are any designs/options.

As the roof grows the structure stiffens up (thankfully)I have enough roof pannels to complete 3 out of the 5 tripple spans. I have also started the capping on both the roof tops and brickwork over the entrances. I will carry on with the foofs until I use up the pannels. I will then order some more along woth some 1mm microstrip to make the north lights with. I will fit again the barge boards to hide the join where the roof meets the walls. Before fitting the downpipes I will see if a brick pelmet looks any good at the bottom of the walls. I will need to build the chimneys/ smoke jacks. I will try the ones in the kit to see what they look like I will also try and contact Wills to see if they will sell me some extra sprues for the capping and the smoke jacks if they have the look I am after, I have the capping they sell with the chimney/roof packs and will see if it matches first. I am still wondering about the inspection pits, I guess in the end I will put them in but it will be a pain cutting through the 9mm MDF. I will use brick sheets at each entrance for the floor covering, however as it will be dark inside the shed I will use plain plasticard further in then blend the two together.

A bit more progress on the roof. The first 2 bay roof is installed and this part of the shed is becomeing quite ridgid. I have started fitting both roof and wall cappings. It look like I am going to see if Wills will sell me some extra roof sprues as I will need some more roof capping and if I use them the smoke jacks. I will also need 2 more packs of slate roofing. Still quite pleased with progress so far.

Over the past few weeks work and other things have got in the way of progress. The first turnout is built and tested, this was the easy one as it is a straight B6, nice and simple. Over the past couple of nights I have worked our where each wall meets the sides and fixed them together. Now on to the roofs. I have started at the rear first with the 2 single spans. The rear gentler slope is easy but it is the steeper one with the north lights I need to work out. I decided to make them in 3 sections, top and bottom in full length and the middle the width required. these are all glued in and waiting for the solvent to harden, so I can file the tops flat to fit the capping. I thought about makeing the roof a seperate lift off section, but decided to make the whole building lift off. Walls still need the bottom vallance fitting, window sills, windows etc. I an just trying out the different parts wall capping, bargeboards etc to see how they look and they are just lightly tacked in place. I have 2 tileing sheets which were stuck together to make a double span drying/hardening to start the next section, I will make a couple of the Wills smoke jacks to see how they look and have a go at the north light windows themselves. Now I know the exact size of the shed I can finalise the curves to the approach tracksEven though I extended the shed by 1 Bay, it seens to have shrunk about 3/4" from my initial estimates. I am still toying about whether to fit inspection pits inside or out. Hopefully I will be able to do some more tomorrow afternoon.

You seem to have mastered Templot much better than I have, I have tried to understand how to make 3 ways, but it all goes over my head. I resort to splicing two plain turnouts together. I will try and keep an eye on your blog as I find trackwork interesting

Julian, mine uses a Triang/Hornby 0-6-0 chassis. Minor modifications, file off the 2 rear mounting lugs and fit a metal L shaped bracket at the front, see earlier picture. 17mm x 7mm and 9mm wide, drill an oblong hole so the bracket screws into the hole on the top of the chassis and can be adjusted.

Neil its looking good, I caught the track making bug a while ago and have spent a lot of time making points fo others as well. I to find it therapeutic. Last year we hired a cottage next to the Ffestinog railway, I came back with the bug and brought a couple of 0-16.5 locos and carriage. I have experimented with some track building. I got some wooden coffee stirers from the golf club, stained them with wood stain. Used code 75 bull head rail with C&L chairs and stuck them to the sleepers with epoxy glue. Next try was to use C&L ( can use Peco) 7mm plastic sleepers, Peco code 82 flatbottom rail, Peco Pandrol chairs and Peco slide chairs (both 4mm scale) Others use cut down Bambi staples as spikes. Great to see someone useing everyday items to scratch build items, takes me back to reading 1960's railway Modellers, please keep it up. Thought about adding a picture but only able to download them via the normal method

Stephen The picture of the chassis has answered a question for me, as there is what I believe to be a K's J50 for sale on Ebay, with the same chassis as in your photo. They are designed to use a Hornby Dublo 0-6-0t chassis, the builder has attached a mounting block to HD fitting in the body to mount the chassis. Thanks for an interesting and informative thread, as I enjoy reading about the story's of older models.

Stephen I must learn to read and understand posts properly, as ypou 1st post had full details in it. I have attached a photo of the Triang chassis version which has had Romford wheels replace the Triang ones. They are on 1/8" axles with the axle holes sleeved down to 1/8th. The chassis is a push fit as there is a metal bracket attached to the chassis above the front drivers,the back of the chassis has had the 2 lugs removed and some how stops in the right place

Stephen I realy like your idea of up dateing this loco, I think have one like yours which has JVM B'HAM stamped in the cab. Sprung buffers, Triang chassis with Romford wheels. Re-numbered 7715. I was wondering about the saftey valve!! Runs like a dream. Has round windows, well an attempt has been made to alter the square ones. I will keep am eye on what you are doing, new saftey valve looks a good idea (just checked the spares box, I have some but ther are for round boilers). Just looked at an old Hornby Pannier body and there is one on that I repainted an Eames E2 not so long ago and its a good little runner and like Mikkel love to see old models brought back to life. I tried 30 years ago to repaint and detail an Eames 3 rail pannier, this has a similar motor to the Triang one but the brushes are at the front of the motor not on the side. It needs stripping down again, the main problems being the holes for the handrail knobs being so big for the split pins that modern hand rail knobs are too small.

Over the weekend I did some more work on the railcar I sprayed the body with satin varnish so I can now fit the windows. Also chopped the Hornby seated driver about and he fits nicely in the drivers seat. Wipers fitted to each of the 4 wheels, I think the gear set is 30-1 which is a bit fast on my H & M Clipper unit so will try it on a feed back unit once the layout is up and running. Roof will be fitted once the glazing has been completed and some people have been installed. W irons have been shortened and painted black This is the kit of parts (see earlier blog comment) and instructions from the No Nosense Kit (x MTK)of the Bristol Railbus. Each side has 2 bits, 2 ends, floor and air vents. Its part kit and part scratch built project. I doubt if I will use the floor as i prefer one made from copperclad. I might use the High Level Pacemaker Traction Pack for this one.

Following a question I have shown my simple chassis arrangements. Its not going to please the rivet counters but then again I do not think they would use a MTK kit. The seats are old MTK ones for a DMU so are not quite correct. The main part of the chassis is a piece of PCB board,I then soldered 2 coach W irons to it. I made a motor mount from some brass sheet and added a DC10 motor with 30/1 Romford gears. I added 2 square bits of brassbetween the W irons for added stiffness. 8ba bolts soldered to bits of brass, which were then stuck to each end of the body. A hole is cut into the PCB board to allow the worm gear into the body and part of the motor, which fits flush with the floor, a High Level kit may keep all below deck but once the seats are in place nothing can be seen All I now need to fit are PB strips to act as wipers on the wheels, and cut the very botom part of the W irons off to hide them. For the Bristol Railcar I may use the High Level kits PaceMaker traction pack http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/ The good part about these kits is all you have is 4 sides so you can fit what you want to it as its up to you what you do. The floor can even be 1 piece which is either stuck or soldered in place. Its nice to have something a bit different, and in fact could command a small diorama layout of its own. The diorama could be no more than 3' long and 6" to 9" wide, I could use 4 different railcars, 1 rail bus, a GWR and LMS push pull units. A bit bigger then 2 car DMu & EMU could be used. A good site is the Railcar Ass http://www.railcar.co.uk/.

Alistair is too honest, but you will have to part scratch build some items, my chassis is very simple and I will take some photos of it and post them

Re the J52, I put on the wrong size letters and decided to remove them, There was something wrong with the Humbrol paint from the can I used, and in takeing off the LNER transfers it affected the black paint. I gave the damaged parts a sand and have given the loco a respray of black from an older Humbrol spray can. If this does not work then I will have to strip it down and start again Anyway last night after having the problems with the J52 I decided to do a bit more with the Waggon und Maschinenbau rail bus. I cannot remember how long ago I started building it, last year I painted it Green (Malachite)and built up the roof. Last night I masked off the central band and painted it aluminium as I did with the roof (roof should be grey though)and painted the seats and internal body brown. Chassis needs pickups, body will be varnished so I can fit the glazing. Once its all running OK I will fix all the seats in place, glue on the roof and seal the joins. Must get back to the transfer company as I want a set of wiskers and numbers (I ordered them but some how my cheque was not cashed and the order not delt with). Have a MTK (No Nonsence kits now) Bristol Rail Bus to build, well its 2 sides and 2 ends. What year will I start it? well I only brought it last year.

Been at the in laws this weekend and got the farther in law to letter half a dozen locos, unfortunatly I told him to put the wrong size LNER transfers on the loco. The body needs a bit of a clean up, (black paint would not set), if it cleans up OK then I will leave alone or I might try and life the transfers and put smaller ones on. If not it might be a repaint job. All the other locos were fine I just made a mistake on this one.

As I said The loco has been sprayed black and have started to paint the cab, buffer beams etc. Going away to see the inlaws for a few days and hope to get the farther in law to help me letter this loco and a few others. Mad rush last night to finish off painting a couple of other locos and get my bits together.

Over the weekend I finished building the loco, the most tedious job was to make the steps from brass sheet. I swapped the split pins for brass hand rail knobs. Fitted etched rear window grills and I fitted some whitemetal steam pipes. For the past few nights I have undercoated and sprayed the loco gloss black, I will now pick out the buffer beams and other items which need painting different colours and will number and letter the loco over the weekend, then a coat of satin varnish will tone the loco down.

As I have said earlier in the thread, as locos are my main interest I can change the region, from GWR to , SR, LMS or at a stretch LNER (only 9 LNER locos built to date ) Away for the weekend and taking several locos with me for my farther in law to number and letter for me (3 GWR, 2 SR & 2 LNER).

A second kit arrived yesterday so I could continue with the build. I have started to built the third bay. I have tried to load a photo but its not happenning, still nice to have the web back. Will post a photo once I find out what the problem is.

I have started to rebuild a BEC LNER J52 I got off Ebay quite cheaply,the paint job was not very good. So a soak in Nitromores last night and a wash clean, all there was then to do was picking off the odd bit of paint and glue. Tonight I have stuck the two body sides/tops to the bunker casting, smoke box and footplate. I noticed that where the 2 body halves joined, the joins was not very good (the builder had put some filler on them). So I decided to do likewise and will leave the filler for 24 hours to set completely I am re-building this loco as a thank you for a friend who did me a good turn. I have 2 other of these. One I built 2 years ago from an unstarted kit, and have a body built by someone else (another Ebay item which no one was bidding on) neither of these show the same problems, either I forgot that I had to do a bit of filling or the castings were better. Also won another Wills 2 road engine shed off Ebay tonight (see layout blog) got it a couple of pounds cheaper than the Ebay shops and hopefully it will arrive quicker that the one I brought a couple of months ago as I had to wait nearly 2 weeks.

View from the fiddle yard The track will be SMP flexi track and (C&L) copper clad built turnouts all in 00, I thought about making them from C&L plastic parts but I decided against this