HAB

Hi Colin, Lazerglaze is a VERY accurate fit in the RTR body side opening - so good a fit that you can only put it in the "right way round" - ie the taper on the kerf left by the lazer matching the tapered draw on the plastic moulding. Thus you can push it into place and it will stay put. Once all the glazing is in place, a run of gloss varnish round the inside of each will hold things in place permanently. Because the lights go in individually, it avoids that "one continuous strip" effect that is sometimes seen with etched kit-built vehicles (not in your models!!) which can mar the overall effect. Another big advantage is that - with care, you can set the door droplights a thou or ten deeper into the moulding than the quarter lights - this produces a very realistic finish to the body side. I have to say I too was pretty sceptical about the idea, but it really is one of those things that is as least as good as it promises! Two caveats - 1. I have only done the EPB - can't speak for anything else! 2. it only works with the RTR vehicle for which it is designed - for example, the glazing intended for the Replica suburban coaches will not fit the EPB - even though the prototype dimensions are the same Of course all of this is academic until the heavy boys persuade Brian to do something about the 2 Bil! Best wishes,

There is quite an interesting picture of Bil roofs in the Mitchell and Smith album "Worthing to Chichester" (Middleton Press) - Photo 71 is an aerial view of the aftermath of the Ford accident in 1951. I have a list of the unit numbers somewhere. Cheers,

Hmm, "Its good, but its not right..." The search must continue methinks... Cheers, Howard

I definitely agree Colin - the ones on the Hornby LH coaches are much better, but looking a bit more closely, I see that they too are circular in a side on view. Just doing a look round the "usual suppliers" of these things, not many of them provide a decent photo and those that do either do not show enough detail or they show the wrong kind of vent! I wonder if anyone has tried the 247 Developments castings - at least the sell three different types of vent and although there is not one specifically described as "Southern" it has been suggested to me that the LNER ones might fit the bill. But has anyone actually seen / used any of these or any other make? I had a look at the Roxey ones I have upstairs but these are for a 2 NOL and are the LSWR pattern. Best wishes,

Hello Colin, Excellent stuff and many thanks again for such an informative thread. I posted earlier about the shape of the torpedo vents and I'm afraid that my concern has not gone away Here's a little extract from two of the images:- [Dave - many thanks once again for an excellent set of images] It looks a bit to me like the proportions of the brass casting are rather different (in the widths - a side-on view might also be revealing) compared both with Dave's image and with the impression left on the roof by the Hornby original. My concerns stems from my feeling that sometimes, it is the proportions of the individual items that create the biggest impact on the eye rather than the exact positioning of them. Of course, the ones Hornby fitted to the Maunsell Loco Hauled stock look super! Grrrr! Signed:- Very Concerned of East Midlands!! Best wishes,

Just going back to roof layouts, Looking through the "usual sources" there seems to be some variation between the batches, but I can't see any with the vents on the centreline. http://www.flickr.com/photos/robertcwp/5398732955/in/set-72157603648747922/lightbox/ Colin, have you identified a source of 4mm vents - those on your Kirk Bil are not quite the right style it seems. Cheers,

Hudson Hanson. My fingers type slowly but still faster than my brain...(or is that Brian?) Thanks Mike! Howard.

Thanks for the kind words Colin - of course, Newhaven MkII in P4 will fit just as well and look even better:-) Just re Lazerglaze - it really is first class stuff. The main benefit over moulded is that the prismatic effect is eliminated and it was amazingly quick to do. The transfers are the Replica Railways "reverse" images which allow them to be stuck to the inside of the glazing. Unfortunately, the pic also shows that I need to replace all the roof conduits... and then finish the weathering... Oh, and the rubbish interior now shows up a lot more... I will speak with Brian Hudson and see if he responds to gentle arm twisting re the 2 Bil - but I'm sure that will not delay you! Sorry if this drags us off topic a bit. Best wishes,

Spot on - I'm the one who could not extract his nose from your EMUs - good memory that man! And this is the point rodding I was wittering on about! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/71121-third-rail-experiments/ Best wishes.

... but it is also proof that the NRM gets things wrong - TTBOMK shoe beams, fuse boxes and arc chutes were "never" painted black - they were either clear or (later) anti-track-grey varnished. When I got my Hornby Bil I could only get the NRM version and was more than a bit surprised to see it had black shoe beams etc! Just in passing - does anyone know at what date the grey anti-track came into use? Similarly, when did cab interiors become the anti-dazzle green? Cheers, Howard

Although I could not comment on who actually owns what, I spoke to Paul Dunn (Coopercraft) at a recent exhibition and he definitely had quite a pile of mouldings with him! I will no doubt see him at Scaleforum, so I shall press further then if nothing appears on the website. We do need to support the Pauls of this world - as custodian of this kit and the ex Blacksmith ones there is a lot riding on his success - perhaps I should buy a tin Hal! Best wishes, Howard.

Not quite true Colin, they are now being produced by CooperCraft. http://shop.cooper-craft.co.uk Though they are not listed in the site just now, I know that he has had a number made and a phone call (44 (0)1823 461961) should do the necessary. He is also offering the ex Blacksmith tin Hal (already on the site) and I understand that the ex Blacksmith 4 Sub is also not far away - just waiting a few castings. Just on the topic of removing glazing, seeing Lazerglaze was available for the 2 EPB, I bought a couple of sets - but (especially given that there was glue all over the shop) was very nervous about knocking out the old glazing. But, by tapping on the outside of each window in turn with the bunt end of a scalpel I was amazed that, without too much pain, it fell out intact! The result was well worth the effort I think. Good luck with the project - following with interest! Also, since Bazza mentioned it, I would say that I converted my Bil to P4 in not much more than an hour so I would not want anyone to think it was too difficult! I have acquired a number of spare motor bogies for future projects since they are so easy to convert and run so nicely! Best wishes, Howard

Jerry, You can (could?) obtain the steps from the Ratio kit as a separate item. But they were the wrong height / angle for me. I made a scale drawing then built up the sides/ rails as an assembly from three layers of strip from the Evergreen range (overlap the ends at the joints so as to make a strong joint) - never tried such things before but it was easier than I feared! The sides of the staircase were constructed in two layers, leaving slots for the tread to slide into. The tread were just cut from .020". I don't say that is the best way - but, like you, I had to work something out having never done it before... Have a go - scrap it if it is no good!. Alternatively, model the GW - most of their boxes had internal steps! Best wishes, Howard.

Not too much progress, but here is a quick pic of where I have got to. I have made a tentative start on the dreaded finial - but there are still four components to add! Interior, eves brackets, cills and walkways to do - oh and a splash of paint... Cheers,

Mick, James, Many thanks for the kind words. Yes the point rodding works but it is not connected to the frame ​ In truth, I'll feel a bit more confident when it is painted - that is usually where things go adrift... Cheers,

Here's a WIP shot of my box for "Minories" - it is something of a first attempt as I have not used plastic previously. There is a lot of detail still to go, but the basic structure is just about there albeit that the roof is just dropped on. It is a BTW LBSC "South London" style box - though it does not look much like one without its valencing etc! Just one question for people - these boxes were equipped with a huge ventilator / finial on the roof - anyone ever tried to scratch build one? Best wishes, Howard.

I must confess that I gave up using Humbrol enamels decades ago and I am at a loss to understand why anyone else is still using them!! I got sick and tired of having to spend "hours" stirring them - only to discover that, on opening them again a couple of days later, all had settled out. On opening a new tinlet, you are consistently faced with a near-clear liquid with a solid sludge at the bottom. Plus all the inconsistencies of quality everyone reports above. So now "warming the tin" is the answer? Leaving aside the obvious risks, it simply should not be necessary - and it is not! Allow me to let everyone into a little secret - Revell do a very similar range - the quality is excellent, they do not settle out - even when years old, they dry quicker, apply better with fewer brush marks, have better coverage and they are often cheaper! They even identify the equivalent Humbrol number on the display stand! The range is not quite so extensive, but must of the "useful" colours are there. My challenge to everyone - give Revell a go - Humbol will never sort their quality whilst we continue to pay money for rubbish. If your local shop does not stock them (and many do) then ask them why not! Best wishes, Howard.

Many thanks for the comments chaps. Jim - more on the track here - http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=1342 Cheers, Howard.

Since my Layout is supposed to be Southern Electric, I thought it ought to have a Third Rail and, being able find no more excuses, I have had to make a start, and I thought others might be interested in how it is going. I am using the Scalefour Society Conductor Rail and insulator pots (which you do not need to be a member to buy). In due course Side protection boards will be need and I have obtained some from C&L which I will report on when I get there. So far, I have only got one piece down, but thought I would post the outcome in order that others can chip in with their own experiences. Although it is only one bit of rail, it was not straightforward as it incorporates two side ramps which have been hacked from some etch fret waste which happened to be about the right shape. At this stage I have not clipped the rail into the pots as I think that should wait until everything else is finished as it is a job you only want to do once I think! Firstly, a general view showing the side ramps from above Secondly. a side view - you can see that I have blackened the rail using Gun Blue - I am fairly pleased with how that has gone given that I don't usually get on well with this stuff! But I quite like the dark sheen on the top of the rail, though plenty of weathering will still be needed of course. This shows the effect of the blackening when looking against the light. Finally a bit of close up which shows the detail in the pots - a bit fiddly but very nice! Time will tell just how strong these bits and pieces are - certainly for short "floaters" I intend to use at least one C&L Cast Brass pot with the rail firmly soldered to it! In case anyone is wondering why the rail is so short, I am a bit paranoid about expansion and contraction therefore I am doing everything in short lengths joined by Exactoscale (C&L) functional fishplates (cut down to two-bolts of course If people are interested, I will post more as things progress. So only another 80 or so feet to do (plus the boards, the hook switch connections, the side steps and a few other things....) Cheers, Howard.

Ne'then Mick, There is one of these in at Quorn on the GCR, and there were a fair number dotted about the system in the later steam days. The southern also had some arm-less semaphores at Wimbledon. located in the dark of the over-bridge. But these at Kemp Town were very early examples and must have been oil-lit. But I have never seen any info on them. I have even seen a photo taken from inside the tunnel and they are just out of view. We may never know now... Best Wishes, H

Thanks for that. You will find a full thread on the rodding here:- http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=2030 Best Wishes, Howard.

Not quite a four-way, but certainly a number of tandems in very close succession. I confess that I spent quite a while looking at some close-ups of Kemp Town trackwork before finalising the track for Minories. And since we are so far off topic, do you know anything about the mechanically worked colour-light signal in the tunnel at Kemp Town? Sorry - I correct myself it WAS indeed a four way - just had another look! Best Wishes, Howard.

Many thanks for the kind words John. Needless to say I took some stick for the working inside motion on my GW locos also!!! But I do carry a bit of a torch for "more scale" track - even in 00, you can build quite nice looking track if so minded, but our friends in Seaton make it too easy to just plonk HO track down then run 4mm scale models on it. Commercial pressures win again! Cheers, Howard.

You are far too modest! But you are absolutely right - looking at the Real Think is always the best place to star - and that is even more true with a layout like CJF's Minories which is very much a "Model Railway" concept. And as I have said before - IMHO, track like this is not possible without Templot - thanks again Martin! Howard.

Me too but very much an amateur! The only other example of working 4mm rodding I have come across is Much Meddling - http://muchmeddling.com/trackwork.htm#tlc - but it is your side of the pond so I have not seen it. My original inspiration was Steve Hall's Halifax King's Cross but he sort of gave up on working rodding - though I am trying to persuade him to give it a go! Seriously though, there is only ONE reason for trying working rodding - that is if you enjoy really fiddly challenges. But it does have to be done well to be reliable - I had to have all my own bits and pieces etched as nothing currently on the market is suitable. I even had to draw my own square wire as the only commercial straight wire is from MSE and it is a bit small in section and in quite short lengths - fine for cosmetic, not so good for working. I am only half way through connecting it all up but so far it is perfectly reliable, and my "test track" has been working fine for 3 years - albeit just two crossovers. The biggest challenge to reliability is expansion - all the runs are properly compensated, but on the assumption that the "earth" does not expand. Well, my earth is made of MDF! Best wishes, H