HAB
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A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter
HAB replied to JCL's topic in Scenery, Structures & Transport
Looks like a case of spurious precision! Is this the software they used to design the Hubble telescope? Keep up the good stuff Mike / all. Cheers, -
I am glad I made my post - I am feeling a lot happier that you have avoided a trap:-) Re how they were set out, as usual, Martin has done the hard work for us:- http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=1960& Good luck! Edit:- it looks like you might have to move two or three timbers...
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It would be a shame to build them all and then discover they are only 99% reliable!! I am sure I feel a little trial coming on! Good Luck with a great project!
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Hello John, Quick question - are you sure you are happy with such "flat" diamonds on such a curve having fixed obtuse crossings? Would you not rather go for moveable switch diamonds? Best wishes,
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Oh dear - lots of scary things about P4 hereabouts - and from some people who should know better as well! In truth it is Exactoscale wheels I use most these days - they are scale width which means almost no filing away of plastic from the insides of Hornby motor bogies! But Ultrascale wheels are also excellent, very accurate and are really easy to fit to Hornby motor bogie axles - but delivery times can be lengthy... To be honest, "the others" I would steer clear off - their only advantage is cheapness. and crud collection is only one of their faults... Now what you must remember Mr. Parks, is that 00 wheels stay on the track DESPITE their deep flanges - not because of them. I have said it before and I say it again - anyone who builds EMUs like these has nothing to fear from P4. So lets have no more about EM flanges Best wishes,
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Spectacular! Having had a go at a single all-steel trailer, I well know just how much work there is on display in these pics! I think you have well earned yourself a break from all our attentions here and, if I were you, I would be putting my modelling feet up for a while - (whilst pushing on with the planning for the all-new-Newhaven of course!) Many thanks for a fascinating thread to get to this point. (not to mention the COR, the HAL, the HAP......!!) Best wishes,
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Martin, I might be misunderstanding, but it rather sounds like you might be using your template as a drilling jig? Rather than drilling through the jig, if you just use it to mark the location with a sharp point, then remove the template for the actual drilling, it should last a long time - I think Colin was also making a similar point. Good Luck,
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Hello MJI, 'Twas I who provided Colin's jig which I was able to do as I was making one for my own use for a similar vehicle. Unfortunately, I am not really into Lima DMUs I'm afraid, so I am not really able to help. Having said that, it sounds like all you need to do is to replicate what you did in plasticard in sheet metal - the jig for the SUB was made from nothing more than 10 thou nickel silver. Is this a good opportunity to hone or develop the metalworking skills? Sorry I can't offer more, but I hope the suggestion is helpful at least. Best wishes,
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Hello Colin, I think they look good! Well done for for you "continuous improvement" to the method - now I know what to do when I fit them to my trailer! Your SUB stands scrutiny even when the pics are viewed full size - which is about 5 times life size - great stuff and very well done! I trust that the spell in the darkened room has helped with the recovery... Best wishes,
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It is my understanding that it does have a coal pusher:- http://www.71000trust.com/old/image/Duke3.jpg http://www.71000trust.com/old/History.html Cheers,
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Going by the picture above, I'm pretty sure he does not mean that! Reminds me of a multiple-unit related tale. A mate of mine was commissioning engineer for new surface stock on the Underground in the 70's. They were firing a new unit up to take it on a test run, and, coming out of the cabin, having finished their brew, were surprised to find that the compressor was still pumping up - the gauge on the main reservoir still showing zero. Having then spent another 10 minutes, compressor flat out, walking round the unit trying to find the escaping air, someone took a closer look at the gauge only to discover that the needle was the wrong side of the zero stop pin. It turned out that the compressor governor and the safety valve were both mounted on the same bit of pipe - which was of course completely blocked! Back to the office to put in for a mod... Happy new year Colin and everyone!
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Just a little tip I was taught years ago to help with the shelf-life of partly-used tins of paint - store them with the lids at the bottom. That way, a skin never forms as there is no way for any air to get to the surface of the paint and similarly, it stops a tiny ring of paint drying round the bottom of the lid which breaks up to form specks when the tin is re-opened. Any settlement is easier to stir out also. It does mean you have to put a blob of paint on the bottom to remember what is in which tin! Good luck with the paint job Colin, and Merry Christmas to you and all loyal followers hereabouts.