drgj

Thanks for the answers. Still a bit confused! I don't like the Hornby BR crimson as it looks a bit pink. I prefer the maroon. Does anyone own R4659? They could give a definitive answer. I have looked at photos of this model but the colours aren't always reproduced very well in pics. By the way, most pictures of real ex LMS maroon suburbans I have seen show them with lining. I was always hoping that Hornby would do this livery.

Is the R4659 suburban 3rd maroon or crimson? I was going to send off for one but it is described as crimson and maroon depending on where you look. I want it to match the ex LMS corridor coach colour which is definitely maroon (of a sort) rather than the crimson and cream corridor coaches. Thanks

Quite a while since I started this. I agree with BR Blue. Unrefurbished class 50s were different beasts. If you stood next to one in a station they were very loud. The filtration system almost drowned out the engine sound until they got going. I don't know whether they changed the silencers during refurb but previously the noise on full throttle was staggering. Maybe my hearing was more sensitive in those days. Dave

I found a lot of pics of 40 010 on the internet, today. It looks like it did get an overhaul in about 1980 as after this date it had shiny paint, smaller double arrows, no frost shields and no boiler tanks between the bogies. Dave

It might be breach of copyright to put it on here as it is a postcard. Dave

I was asking this in another forum but no replies. I am sure that 40 010 had the larger double arrows in the 70s but a picture when scrapped shows the smaller normal ones. Would this loco have had a repaint in between? I am modelling this loco as in the 70s. Dave

This is a very impressive model but I wish it was a bit cheaper! Looks worth the money, though. I have a colour postcode of diesel 10001 passing South Kenton with a red crane. I have the loco but no crane. I wonder if that would have been based at Willesden? I used to live in Kenton but was born in 1963 so would have been tiny when that train went by. Dave

I decided to buy a new airbrush and bought a brand new Badger 175 double action. I also bought an Iwata Compressor, the one with the frame/ handle that acts as an air tank. I used to use an old car wheel for air and thought I would go straight in and get a high quality compressor after reading a few horror stories. This together with the 175 work very well indeed. The 175 is much chunkier than an average airbrush but this doesn't make any difference in use. Dave

Thanks for that, Mike.

Well I managed to fix it. There was a wire loose on the switch pcb underneath. There are ten colour coded wires at this point. I ended up having to disconnect all ten from the main pcb to make enough room to solder the wire back on. I must have pulled on the wire when I was messing around lubricating the motor bearings. I managed to knock a small fitting off one bogie, of course . I bought this loco new (the only new one I have) but I prefer second hand because they are not usually perfect anyway. I don't feel so bad when a used loco falls to pieces. In the instructions it says to lubricate various points as in the diagram but there is no diagram of lubrication points that I can see. I couldn't see a way to lubricate the motor bearings without removing the chassis base. It was that that caused all my troubles. Dave

Running on DC. On one end the red tail light isn't working. This loco hadn't been run for a few years and wasn't very smooth so I lubricated it including the motor bearings. For the latter I had to remove the black plastic chassis from the block. I was careful not to strain the switch wires but could I have done something at this point? There are a few wires coming from the switch. The contacts between the body and chassis seem in order. I took off the circuit board in the nose and it seems ok. Can I test it with 12v? are there resistors on the circuit board itself? I'm sure that I would have noticed if the led wasn't working when I first bought it. Also how do the side frames unclip from the bogies? I would like to clean the pick ups. Dave

Thanks for the answers. Dave

Do these etchings give a better slightly "sad eye" looking windscreens like on a real class 50? Thanks Dave

Thanks, John. My 200 is usually very good. I had a look on "Don's airbrush tips" and removed the needle bearing in a similar way to the way he did it but used some brass tube that I had. On inspection the bearing looked as though it had been half in and half out. I turned it round and pressed it back in. The fit of the needle was then quite a bit firmer feeling but still the pulsing spray on another test. Either I need the front seal or the needle bearing has worn oval so making it feel ok. I don't know if I will be throwing good money after bad if I buy the new parts in case I can't fix it. Dave

Thanks for that, Phil. I have just finished cleaning up my 200 and tried it again. I have managed to stop the bubbling into the paint jar but the spray is still pulsating. I sealed all the threads with beeswax but to no avail. It must be the rear teflon seal/ needle bearings. I think I might just get another airbrush as I have had good use out of this one and it was second hand when I bought it. Dave

Thanks, John. I will look into the 155. With the 200 I normally clean after a session it by spraying thinners back and forth through it by alternately blocking and unblocking the business end as it says to do in the instruction manual. When it stops working I strip it down. Do you strip yours after every session? Dave

Thanks for the answers. Yes it looks like I have two separate problems- pulsating caused by seals and the bubbling caused by a blockage. Will give it all another clean and see how I get on. John- how did you fit the needle bearing? Dave

My airbrush is usually ok but I think I may have done something to the Teflon needle bearing. I pulled the needle out and it had paint dried on it and this might have scratched the needle bearing because the airbrush is pulsing and sometimes not spraying and often blowing bubbles into the paint jar. I looked into this and the bearing is available and can be reamed after fitting with a number 55 drill bit according to Badger themselves. My question is do I push the old bearing out the front and fit the new from the front or is it the other way round? I may get a new Teflon seal for the front as well plus check the mixing tip part for any problems. I have cleaned out the tiny jet, needle, etc. Not too familiar with terminology, I'm afraid! Dave

I am modelling a 4mm scale class 40 with just one double arrow on the left hand end (40 010). Would I use 8.5mm or 10mm symbols? Thanks Dave

I like the figures. What make are they? Dave

yes it does

Hoping someone will know this. I think that the Slaters one is 1.27mm. I can get one locally, I hope. Thanks Dave

Thanks, John. Dave

Ragstone models do have a door and front but looks to be designed for a thin rolled smoke box cover (not sure of terminology). I probably could use it with some work. The loco is a restoration project anyway. Dave

I have read that DJH only had something to do with the drawings. They don't supply any parts, even for their own kits. The most significant part I need is the smoke box door. This is issue 101 I have discovered. Dave