Jump to content
 

drgj

Members
  • Posts

    573
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by drgj

  1. Lots of new posts since I last looked. Thanks to DavidW for spotting the diagram 330 Thompson open that is new to the Comet range. Dave
  2. Are the buffer beams fixed to the body assembly or the underframe? Thanks
  3. "I use Advanced Paints acid etch primer". Anglian- I had a look at the site and there is an aerosol called Clostermann Vanguard. Is this the good one? Thanks
  4. Thanks for the new replies from Barry and Peter. I thought of putting foam inside the body but because gripping the body when running didn't dampen the noise I thought it would make no difference.
  5. I thought I had asked this before but I can't find it now! I think I must have missed the submit button. Does the Halfords etch primer mentioned by sjp23480 give a smooth finish? Also on brass could I use masking tape over it to do a two colour livery without pulling the paint off? Does it work on aluminium (Comet coach roof). Thanks Dave
  6. Do these primers mentioned survive the use of Tamiya masking tape? I am thinking of a comet kit with brass sides and aluminium roof. In the past I have made coaches with brass sides on a rtr body so have masked the plastic bits to be safe. Would a two colour finish on brass sides be a bit more problematic ? Dave
  7. drgj

    2021 hopes

    I never had a name for steam locos when I went on railway trips in the 70s but others did call them kettles but the only ones we saw were those on the Marine Lake Railway in Rhyl. I used to use the nicknames for diesels such as Duff and Burner (class 31). Most of the drivers had driven steam locos. On the Hornby front I would like a lined maroon ex LMS suburban coach. Dave
  8. I suppose that is the only option now. Dave
  9. Thanks for the reply. Mine is a Green with small yellow panel. I bought it a few years ago. I did put some oil on the motor bearings but this wasn't easy unless I missed something. The class 40 I own has some holes underneath for this purpose but with the 10001 I had to dismantle the whole thing (and it made no difference). I examined everything and couldn't find any damaged gears, etc. It actually runs very smoothly, funnily enough. Dave
  10. I have owned this loco from new and ran it in carefully but it is quite noisy at a certain speed. If I take the body off the chassis is very much quieter. I am thinking that the body is amplifying the noise which sounds like a loose, dry bearing, or some kind of vibration that suddenly comes on at a certain speed. I have been right through this loco and lubricated everything. I refitted the body and tried gripping it to try and damp the vibration as the loco went along but this made no difference. I wonder if anyone has had a similar experience with a Bachmann centre motor loco? They are all quite similar. Thanks Dave
  11. Thanks for the two new replies. Yes i noticed that only the d350 Thompson seems to be available and was wondering if there was much difference between the two opens. Thanks for pointing out the differences. Dave
  12. I was hoping to find a Thompson tourist open coach in the Comet range but couldn't see one. There is a Gresley version but I would prefer a Thompson. I wonder if any other manufacturer does one in 4mm ? Thanks Dave
  13. I used to see them at Rhyl (Grandfather lived here) and Aber (Great Uncle here ) on the main line to Holyhead. Dave
  14. This will go well with my North Wales class 101. Dave
  15. Finally finished my two car unit. I couldn't bring myself to do anything to the boxed Hornby class 101 I had so I used a green livery Lima version. I found some pics of a Chester based one and copied it as much as possible. I got hold of a trailer chassis and used it to make a driving trailer composite. I only removed the footboards at one end as they weren't needed. I removed the gutters leaving just the bits over the doors. I cut out and flush glazed the destination windows/ blinds. I repainted with an airbrush in blue livery and applied the numbers for this set from a custom set ordered from Railtec. The prototype had the set number on a little board inside the front windscreen so I copied this. I fitted some small couplings as the Lima ones were a bit of an eyesore. I still need to find some headcode transfers. Basically it just looks like the Bachmann version and was a hell of a job as it kept going wrong but this was considerably cheaper. I have a proper Chester set- not totally accurate- but i like it. It runs surprisingly well but noisier than the Hornby version
  16. I recently treated our garage floor with PVA as described by "The Johnster" above. I vacuumed up all the concrete dust and then painted PVA mixed at 1 part PVA and 5 parts water. It soaks in and makes it quite solid and dust proof. Dave
  17. I always tend to use by this airbrush but have found that the finish is quite easily damaged. I have been using it over Railmatch enamel. the enamel paint itself adheres well and seems tougher than the varnish. I wonder what I am doing wrong? Dave
  18. They certainly have a distinctive sound. When I was a boy I used to see the 25/3s clattering through Kenton on the west coast mainline. Then when we went on Holiday to my grand parents in North Wales I would see them there, too! Later when I travelled about on the railways they seemed to be everywhere. I saw the side on picture of Heljan 25 093 on the Rails site and it does look really good to me. I had a Bachmann D7667 which I liked but I had also done a Hornby conversion so kept that one after spending so long on it! Here are the two together. Have posted this pic before. I had to build up the area between the windscreen pillar and side window to get the wrap around yellow panel which is non existent on the original Hornby model that I used. Dave
  19. I was thinking how good the blue ones look! Dave
  20. So is it alright to keep spraying to a wet sheen in one go as long as it doesn't run rather than waiting for one coat to dry? Do proper enamel thinners dry more quickly? I have been using white spirit. Dave
  21. Is it better to spray wet looking coats and allow to fully dry for a few hours between them or just to continuously build up the paint by spraying lightly? I tend to do the latter and if one sweep looks a bit too wet I dry it by blasting straight air at it. I use railmatch enamels and the finish looks a bit matt sometimes or even grainy. I am using Railmatch enamels. Dave
  22. You can unclip the roof and windows from the body by pressing the latter in slightly. They act as clips for the roof. Dave
×
×
  • Create New...