drgj
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Everything posted by drgj
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Lots of new posts since I last looked. Thanks to DavidW for spotting the diagram 330 Thompson open that is new to the Comet range. Dave
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Are the buffer beams fixed to the body assembly or the underframe? Thanks
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Brass & whitemetal primer recommendations - for airbrushing
drgj replied to 97xx's topic in Weathering, Painting & Transfers
"I use Advanced Paints acid etch primer". Anglian- I had a look at the site and there is an aerosol called Clostermann Vanguard. Is this the good one? Thanks -
Thanks for the new replies from Barry and Peter. I thought of putting foam inside the body but because gripping the body when running didn't dampen the noise I thought it would make no difference.
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Brass & whitemetal primer recommendations - for airbrushing
drgj replied to 97xx's topic in Weathering, Painting & Transfers
Thanks for the answers to my post. Dave -
Brass & whitemetal primer recommendations - for airbrushing
drgj replied to 97xx's topic in Weathering, Painting & Transfers
I thought I had asked this before but I can't find it now! I think I must have missed the submit button. Does the Halfords etch primer mentioned by sjp23480 give a smooth finish? Also on brass could I use masking tape over it to do a two colour livery without pulling the paint off? Does it work on aluminium (Comet coach roof). Thanks Dave -
Which primers can be used for brass?
drgj replied to HealeyMills's topic in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips
Do these primers mentioned survive the use of Tamiya masking tape? I am thinking of a comet kit with brass sides and aluminium roof. In the past I have made coaches with brass sides on a rtr body so have masked the plastic bits to be safe. Would a two colour finish on brass sides be a bit more problematic ? Dave -
I never had a name for steam locos when I went on railway trips in the 70s but others did call them kettles but the only ones we saw were those on the Marine Lake Railway in Rhyl. I used to use the nicknames for diesels such as Duff and Burner (class 31). Most of the drivers had driven steam locos. On the Hornby front I would like a lined maroon ex LMS suburban coach. Dave
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I suppose that is the only option now. Dave
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Thanks for the reply. Mine is a Green with small yellow panel. I bought it a few years ago. I did put some oil on the motor bearings but this wasn't easy unless I missed something. The class 40 I own has some holes underneath for this purpose but with the 10001 I had to dismantle the whole thing (and it made no difference). I examined everything and couldn't find any damaged gears, etc. It actually runs very smoothly, funnily enough. Dave
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I have owned this loco from new and ran it in carefully but it is quite noisy at a certain speed. If I take the body off the chassis is very much quieter. I am thinking that the body is amplifying the noise which sounds like a loose, dry bearing, or some kind of vibration that suddenly comes on at a certain speed. I have been right through this loco and lubricated everything. I refitted the body and tried gripping it to try and damp the vibration as the loco went along but this made no difference. I wonder if anyone has had a similar experience with a Bachmann centre motor loco? They are all quite similar. Thanks Dave
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Thanks for the two new replies. Yes i noticed that only the d350 Thompson seems to be available and was wondering if there was much difference between the two opens. Thanks for pointing out the differences. Dave
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I was hoping to find a Thompson tourist open coach in the Comet range but couldn't see one. There is a Gresley version but I would prefer a Thompson. I wonder if any other manufacturer does one in 4mm ? Thanks Dave
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I used to see them at Rhyl (Grandfather lived here) and Aber (Great Uncle here ) on the main line to Holyhead. Dave
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This will go well with my North Wales class 101. Dave
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Finally finished my two car unit. I couldn't bring myself to do anything to the boxed Hornby class 101 I had so I used a green livery Lima version. I found some pics of a Chester based one and copied it as much as possible. I got hold of a trailer chassis and used it to make a driving trailer composite. I only removed the footboards at one end as they weren't needed. I removed the gutters leaving just the bits over the doors. I cut out and flush glazed the destination windows/ blinds. I repainted with an airbrush in blue livery and applied the numbers for this set from a custom set ordered from Railtec. The prototype had the set number on a little board inside the front windscreen so I copied this. I fitted some small couplings as the Lima ones were a bit of an eyesore. I still need to find some headcode transfers. Basically it just looks like the Bachmann version and was a hell of a job as it kept going wrong but this was considerably cheaper. I have a proper Chester set- not totally accurate- but i like it. It runs surprisingly well but noisier than the Hornby version
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I recently treated our garage floor with PVA as described by "The Johnster" above. I vacuumed up all the concrete dust and then painted PVA mixed at 1 part PVA and 5 parts water. It soaks in and makes it quite solid and dust proof. Dave
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I always tend to use by this airbrush but have found that the finish is quite easily damaged. I have been using it over Railmatch enamel. the enamel paint itself adheres well and seems tougher than the varnish. I wonder what I am doing wrong? Dave
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They certainly have a distinctive sound. When I was a boy I used to see the 25/3s clattering through Kenton on the west coast mainline. Then when we went on Holiday to my grand parents in North Wales I would see them there, too! Later when I travelled about on the railways they seemed to be everywhere. I saw the side on picture of Heljan 25 093 on the Rails site and it does look really good to me. I had a Bachmann D7667 which I liked but I had also done a Hornby conversion so kept that one after spending so long on it! Here are the two together. Have posted this pic before. I had to build up the area between the windscreen pillar and side window to get the wrap around yellow panel which is non existent on the original Hornby model that I used. Dave
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I was thinking how good the blue ones look! Dave
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Thanks for that, DT.
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Thanks for all the replies. Dave
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So is it alright to keep spraying to a wet sheen in one go as long as it doesn't run rather than waiting for one coat to dry? Do proper enamel thinners dry more quickly? I have been using white spirit. Dave
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Is it better to spray wet looking coats and allow to fully dry for a few hours between them or just to continuously build up the paint by spraying lightly? I tend to do the latter and if one sweep looks a bit too wet I dry it by blasting straight air at it. I use railmatch enamels and the finish looks a bit matt sometimes or even grainy. I am using Railmatch enamels. Dave
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Repainting Lima GUVs - to prime or not to prime?
drgj replied to 9C85's topic in Weathering, Painting & Transfers
You can unclip the roof and windows from the body by pressing the latter in slightly. They act as clips for the roof. Dave