Vistisen

But look at the real thing and the rails are NOT sunk into ballast, Try gooling track ballast images, and you can see various levels, somtimes there is a clear gap between the rails and the ballast.

One of the problems with OO gauge track would be that the webbing between sleepers will be even more obvious because of the greater distance between sleepers. I've been thinking about how to solve this problem I arrived at the idea of having the sleepers loose on the rails, the track is laid with the sleepers held at the correct distance by a plastic strip in between the rails. This strip should be castellated on the underside to help keep the sleepers apart at the correct distance. Once the track is glued in place, the strip is lifted up before ballasting. The strip should not be too wide as this would cause problems on curves, and not so deep as to risk also being glued down. This would make is easy to change sleeper types and distances between them as wished .

I can't help but wonder, If it was Bachmann magazine making this model, whether the tone of debate that is considered 'acceptable' would be the same.

Another important tip, don't move the nail, while pressing the button on the applicator. I did this and fell over backwards

A bit of a storm in a teacup or did you mean ' whether'

Nope, the worst ever message was the infamous " Windows is optimizing your computer" which actually meant you'll be lucky if it ever starts again

Thanks for the link to hackerspace, I see they are in Denmark as well, I will be paying them a visit soon

I would have thought that an obvious solution to the all too annoying out of sync chuffing would be to put a sensor on one of the driving wheels that can tell the sound chip how many rorations per unit of time the wheels make and from that how often to chuff! I

I have just started building a model of the chard branch line, after a break of about 25 years! I fell in love with the look of the Tillig points, but falling firmly into the "hamfisted" brigade, I am wondering whether it is better to have clunky points that don't derail the stock rather than points that look lovely but seem to trip wagons up. Specifically the small radius points seem to have the v of the frog standing slightly higher than the level of the blades. A good friend has minimized the problem by grinding a bit off the top the end of the frog with a mini drill fitted with a slitting disk. But surely this should not have to be done