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Job's Modelling

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  1. Job's Modelling
    The middle building
    The shop in the middle of the building is still in use. I know how to create windows for a derelict building. So for my first building I had no problem. But how to crate believable windows above the shop for my second building?
     
    A late 1950’s Laundry shop
    I always try to create a believable late 1950’s scene. First I make a choice for my shop. For that I use pictures out that period. I found useful pictures to help me to create my scene. I have also some good usable textures for this part of my diorama.
    The shop sign and shop window signs are created by myself using Publisher.
     
    Monday – washing day
    The diorama is set on a Monday, and Monday was in the late 1950’s still washing day. And not everyone was doing (all) the wash at home. In my case the middle shop offers Laundry Service. They offer also bag wash service.
     
    “In the UK the system was known as the bag wash, or bagwash, and was sometimes offered by independent washerwomen working from home.”
     
    The Laundry Service is run by Mr. Lee. His ancestors came from Hong Kong.
     
    Modelling the shop
    Because I use a colour scheme I use that as a reference to choose my textures.
    Textures used are from Scalescenes, for the brick, windows and shop and Smart Models for the curtains.
    The window textures from Scalescenes I found to light and to grey. I used pastels to give them a more poorly maintained appearance. Colouring them with middle brown and sepia, faded with a cotton bud, gave the right result.
     
    Finishing
    I still have to do some finishing work. I so that when I have finished the third part of the building with the final shop front. For the result until now see the pictures below.
     

    ​the two finished buildings &
     

    the two finished shop fronts
     
    Any suggestion or comments are welcome.
     
    Regards,
     
    Job
  2. Job's Modelling
    I have finished the yard of J. Peterson Ltd on Grove Road.
    For the yard I used the following details:

    - Portland cement sacks
    - A spade
    - Pigments for sand
    - Fine basalt for aggregate
    - Some corrugated plates (photo paper)  
    For the storage of the aggregate and sand I created staithes from brick.
     
    The cement sacks, spade and fine basalt are from Kotol, a German supplier of excellent detail materials in hO. Because I didn’t use any OO gauge detail materials in the yard I found them very useful to create the right atmosphere for a builder’s yard.
     
    The piles for the aggregate and sand I made from some scrap card and toilet paper. The piles were than painted using pigments and water. The aggregate pile is finished with fine basalt. The pile of sand with Venetian earth pigment.
     
    The corrugated iron plates are from a kit of Clever Models.
     

     
    Then I made some pictures to create the on the road scene for my story.
     
    I haven’t made a choice yet, so if you have a favourite please let me know.
     

    No. 1
     

    No. 2
     

    No. 3
     

    No. 4
     
    If anyone has any experience with putting a driver in an Austin KX from Oxford Die-cast, please let me know.
     
    And as always suggestions and comments are appreciated.
     
    Kind regards
    Job
  3. Job's Modelling
    I wanted to start with the arches, but then I noticed that this was not the right starting point. I had to start first with the road and the surface. The reason of this is mentioned somewhere below in this blog.
     
    The asphalt road from Scalescenes is printed on Hahnemühle watercolour paper 150 g/m2 rough. I like the deep colour of the asphalt that I got this way. I always put the printer output on best quality and select the right type of paper. This will depend of what type of printer you are using.
    I also placed a drain in the asphalt road as I designed it. The drain is also from Scalescenes. To get the drain on the right place I draw coloured pencil line on the edge of the pavement.
    The asphalt road is sealed with transparent matt gesso from Tri Art. I applied it with a soft brush.
    I did also some test with the gesso. It is possible to apply pastel an colour pencil beneath and on top of the gesso.
    So I gave the drain and the edge to the pavement some additional weathering with some pigment powders. I applied them carefully with a cotton bud.
     

     
    The kerbs are printed on Lana Dessin paper.
    Because I wanted to use the Scalescenes kits, the kerbs are this time are also from the one of his kits.
    This meant the kerbs are 0,5 cm wide at the surface of the pavement. I decided to glue them separately. To give the kerbs a more granite appearance I used an embossing pen and some weathering with a pastel pencil.
    I also glued the pavement stones separately on the underground. I coloured the edges between the separate pavement stones with a Derwel colour pencil. I also coloured every edge of a pavement stone with a dark brown pastel pencil.
    I applied some additional detail using one of mine embossing pens.
    I leaved the last row of pavements stones away. In this way it will be avoid the setting of the aches and shop fronts on top of the pavement. This row will be glued carefully in place after I have finished the arches and the shop fronts.
     
     

     
    I glued the pavement on the asphalt base with coloured acrylic modelling paste. For collaring I used Kassel Earth pigment. When I laid the pavement on the asphalt I saw it didn’t fit exactly flat. The modelling paste will fill up the gaps between the asphalt road and the kerbs.
     
    Also this time an overview picture of the diorama, so you can follow the development from black and white to color.
     

     
    As always your suggestions and comments are much appreciated.
     
    Regards,
    Job
  4. Job's Modelling
    I designed the record shop using the Scalescenes textures and following the related building description.
     

     
    But I liked to give this shop a more 1950’s appearance. Unfortunately I couldn’t find much pictures. So I had to improvise here. As far as I know there were not much regulations about shop front appearances. So shop owners had a lot of freedom to create a shop front to their own design.
     
    I decide to use a brick surrounding for the record shop. Embossing the stones. With this job I have a love and hate relationship. One time I stop after 10 minutes, because I’m struggling with it. Another time I can go on and on,, working in some kind of flow. But afterwards I’m always pleased that I did it.
     
    I tried several front shop colours from the Scalescenes shops under arches. After trying several colours I decided to use the blue one.
    The shop front is made using the Scalescenes textures.
     
    The shop sign is made in my usual way using Publisher and Word. For the fascia I used colors from the BS5252 Color Chart.
     

     
    Again I have used a very good quality of card to create the shop front.
    The final result is weathered in my usual way with pastel pencils and some pigments.
    The shop front has had a total covering with a blue pastel pencil to give it a deeper blue color.
     

     
    In this picture you can see why I will not use grey card anymore. The shop front is the cut out. When adding the textures I wasn’t able to get it as straight as I wanted. Lesson learned. But I like the final appearance.
    I hope the result is convincing. And of course again an overall picture of Station Road, adding more and more colour to it.
     

     
    Advices and comments are much appreciated.
     
    Regards,
    Job
  5. Job's Modelling
    Although I like painting, I find painting metal figures still a difficult job.
    I still have to find my way. In the pictures below the way I tried it this time.
     

    Step 1: priming the metal figures with an undercoat.
     

    Step 2: first cover with black paint
     

    Step 3: second coat with black paint
     

    Step 4: adding some basic colors
     

    Step 5: adding some more basic colors
     

    Step 6: dry brushing with paint.
     

    Finished figures after adding some pigment weathering and a coat of matt varnish.
     
    And a picture of the some painted bollards in the diorama:

     
    I also added some basic weathering on the lower part of the warehouse.
    In the mean time I tried to find some background information about painting figures. For Station Road I have again to paint some figures and other things.
    I will than use this guide I found, summery below:
     
     
     

    - Choice your colour scheme, form base to end
    - Apply undercoat, a dark one for dark figures / parts
    - Apply the basecoat, the most dominant colours of the model with light coats
    - Add fine detail
    - Apply a wash.
    - Varnish the model with a matte varnish.  
    So also for me it means that I have to make a planning for painting my figures to get the right shopping list. There isn’t a good model shop in the place I live. Mostly I buy my paint in a larger town with a good art craft shop and model shop.
     
    I will show that approach sometime in the future, when I have to paint some figures etc. for Station Road.
     
    I wish everyone a good Christmas and a healthy and prosperous 2014.
     

     
    Regards,
    Job
  6. Job's Modelling
    The poem is my free interpretation from the first part of the poem “down in the deep water”. The original poem is to be found here: http://www.poemhunter.com/poem/down-in-the-deep-water/
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    This is the first time I made several try outs before I start modelling a part of my diorama. On my first water surface I just used black paint and several layers of varnish. For Northall Dock I wanted to see if other ways would give a better result. So for the dock water I tried out several methods I had read off.
     
    I started to make 5 rectangles (7,5 cm square) from Artist canvas on board from I artist supply shop. They all got a different approach.

     
    The colour I used is a mixture of Payne’s Grey and Chromium Oxide Green acryl paint. I gave them all two layers of the mixture.
    Two rectangles got a thin layer of Acryl modelling paste supplied with an oil paint pallet knife.
     
    Most parts got a two layer finish of glossy varnish for acryl paint.
     
    1. Paint & varnish
     
    2. Paint & PVA glue
     
    3. Paint, PVA glue & varnish
     
    4. Acrylic modeling paste, paint & varnish
     
    5. Acrylic modeling paste, PVA glue, paint & varnish
     
    For the water on my diorama I will use the Artist canvas board as a base. I don’t have to prepare it for the Acryl based material I use.
     
    Hope the pictures show the different approaches. For the final choice I already have eliminated no. 2.
     
    Next job will be to decide what kind of quay wall texture I want to use. Will make some try outs first.
     
    Regards,
    Job
  7. Job's Modelling
    I have learned to do the hardest things first. For me that is painting figures.
    After the excellent blog entries in Wenlock’s Blog (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1131/entry-20957-coal-part-2/ ) and Mikkel’s The Farthing’s layout (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/75/entry-21161-gwr-large-flat-dray/) about horses and carts I decided to do some horse painting. In the past I found an excellent tutorial about painting horses using pastels. So let’s give it a try.
     
     
     
    The starting point is a horse from the Dart Castings range.
     

     
    After cleaning it from flashes and cleaning it, the next step was to give it a coat of primer. In this case I used Vallejo red brown RAL 8012.
     

     
    Then I started painting the harness of the horse using black acrylic paint and black wash. I finished the harness drybrushing with a mixture of black and brown.
    Next step is to use the pastels. Building it up in layers. I started with Yellow Ochre, then I added some Burnt Yellow. Then you give it a light coat of varnish for pastels. After that you can built up the colour further using brown and black. Each time you add a small amount of pastel to the colours you have used already. Every time I had done some layers of pastel I gave it a coat of varnish.
    Finally, I highlighted some muscle parts adding black with a cosmetic pad.
     

     
     
     
    After I had given the horse it final coat of varnish I found it to glossy. To solve this, I gave the horse a final coat of black wash.
     
    Then I finished the bottom of the feet using some acrylic paints: white and light dirt.
     
    Here is the result of my efforts.
     

     
    I'm curious about your opinion.
     
    Kind regards,
    Job
     
    P.S. After the correct comments of the picture I have made a new one. Hope it is better. Also got a personal advice to improve it. I will try this out and will show the result in my next entry.
     

  8. Job's Modelling
    I had to find a solution for my the lighting and background of my APA-box diorama. Due my multiple chemical sensitivity I’m not able to do any soldering. So I have to search for other possibilities. I find this one of the most difficult jobs for my diorama’s.
     
    I use a led strips from IKEA with the following description: light temperature 2700 K / 30 lumen. This is enough for a APA-box. I have used them also for Nice Street (Urban Scene).
    This time the led strip is adjusted at the front of the box. Using some aluminium foil and transparent paper I created a diffused lightning. If have made additional strip of wood in front of the strip
     

     
    I think I can improve the lighting by using aluminium foil at the underside of the lid.
     
    I like to create some light inside my warehouse. Luckily Christmas is coming and I saw some small led strips on battery I maybe can use. I will buy some and try this out when I’m building the final warehouse. May also try to use a led strip from my Ikea lightning. The result of my lighting efforts I will publish in a later entry.
     
    First of all the choice of a background is I believe is personal and will depend on your personal preference. I have seen a lot of beautiful backgrounds in the RMweb.
     
    For the background I used two options in the past:
    A photographic background from Scalescenes – Bridge Street
     

     
    Painting the inside of the APA-box – Nice Street (Urban Scene)
     

     
    When I put the painted background in Diorama forum on the RM-web one of the replies pointed at the visible corners. I saw the same with I glued background in another APA micro layout.
     
    Then I remembered that someone used a background made of fabric. Because I like an one colour background I decided to try this out on Northall Dock.
    I used a blue-grey fitted sheet we normally use for the spare bed to create the background (advice: first consult the lady of the house).
    The fabric background is cut in size and fitted with two strokes of double sided tape.
     

     
    The fabric is just the try out. I first have to paint the APA-box. I wanted to do that this week , but I decided to wait with that until my wife is more recovered from a seriously concussion. Luckily she is improving step by step.
    Before I can use it as a definite background, I have to iron the fabric first.
    In this way I hope to capture an overcast sky.
     
    The cottage is placed were the warehouse of Roope & Voss is designed, to show the effect of the fabric background. The corner of the APA-Box is photographed.
     
    Any suggestions are welcome.
     
    Thanks for reading,
    greetings
     
    Job
  9. Job's Modelling
    I wanted to keep it simple …
    My starting points were:
    - Using my favourite method for design
    - Balanced colours
    - Just low relief
    For this purpose, I asked Scalescenes to provide my a picture of the back of a row of terraced cottages, he uses on his website. He kindly provided me the picture. Many thanks for that.
    Then I realised I had “a lot” of not used prints. This could be the opportunity to use them.
    Using my map, I searched for a scene to build.
    My choice was to build J. Peterson Ltd on Grove Road.
     

     
    For the building I took the garage from Scalescenes.
     

     
    The used brick texture is from Clever Models. Sign self made. The door is a part from the Scalescenes garage.
     
    I needed to present a yard “wall” or “fence”.
    The see what would work best I made three possible sollutions (all scrapp parts)
     

    A concrete fence (Railway Model Scenery)
     

    A corrugated fence (Clever Models
     

    Brick wall ((Railway Model Scenery)
     
    On all three pictures you see just flat models.
     
    The discussion with my partner gave the following result:
    A corrugated fence (Clever Models), useful for a scrap yard or a bombed area
    A concrete fence (Railway Model Scenery), is this right in the late 1950’s? I couldn’t find reference pictures.
    Brick wall ((Railway Model Scenery) – gives a very balanced colour look.
     
    So I will use the brick wall. But making photographs from the diorama I noticed another problem. It was very hard to make the pictures I had in mind this way.
     
    I have found a solution, but more about that in my next entrée.
     
    Can anyone give an answer or information of the use of concrete fences in the late 1950’s?
     
    As always suggestions, etc., etc. … are welcome
     
    Kind regards,
    Job
  10. Job's Modelling
    The starting point
     

     
    A shop overview.
     
    Third shop wall
     
    I had now created two shop walls. For the third one I had to create a new back ground. First I made a texture with a colour that fits with the background colour of the other walls. Than I did some research on the internet and found a nice picture with 1950’s washing soaps. I also found some nice shop posters. Two of them I added to the shop wall. See the result below.
     

     
    Interior lighting
     
    For my shops on Station Road I used indirect lighting. I was very places with the result especially for the Walden Book Shop
     

     
    In the case of the book store I had an open space beind the railway arches. The light that illuminates the diorama is also used to illuminate the interior of the shop. In the kit for the grocery shop a closed ceiling is provided. This to create a solid structure.
     
    To create the indirect lighting I decided to build only the visible side of the roof. I also made an lighting opening in the ceiling. In this way the structure stayed solid. I already tesred it in my APA-box and was content with the result.
     

     
    Front
     
    Next step is to create the front for the shop and the adjacent buildings.
     
    Looking forward to your comments.
     
    Kind regards,
    Job
  11. Job's Modelling
    The last building
    The last shop is also closed. It’s an ironmongers shop, called A. Leach & Co. Ironmongers limited
     

     
    Different appearance
    The shop sign is created by myself using Publisher. One of the advantages for me is that I can save my Publisher creation as a jpeg file.
    The shop is made with different textures from different kits and texture sheets from Scalescenes.
    The give the diorama a lot look at I gave it a totally different appearance with a lot of details.
     
    Modelling the shop
    The colour scheme I use was the reference for the choice of my textures.
    Windows are made in the same way as for the second building. I used the glazing with grime texture sheet from Scalescenes to put behind the windows.
     
    Finishing
    I still have to do some finishing work. I want to place some sky at the side and in the back of the building. There are also some small parts that need attention.
     
    Scene
    The diorama is made to show a delivery scene. The delivery scene will be part of my story, by using the photographs I make from the scene. I have some thoughts how to do this but I must work this out first.
    I also want to use it as presentation diorama for one of my 1950’s cars. The British Railways mechanical horse will also be used in my other story-telling diorama’s
     

    The whole building &
     

     
    the shop fronts
    Any suggestion or comments are welcome.
     
    Regards,
     
    Job
  12. Job's Modelling
    To add some details to Northall Dock I did some research. As a guide I used the Hounslow - Street Scene Design Guide from October 2012. Although not the area I’m building it gives a good overview of how you can design streets and what kind of elements are used.
    From this guide I selected the following vertical street elements:

    Advertising signs and A-boards
    Bespoke Furniture
    Bins
    Bollards
    Boundary Railings
    Bus Shelters
    Street lighting
    Covers and gratings
    Surfacing as kerbs, milestones, channels, setts, brick or cobbling
    (war) memorials
    Street Name Signs
    Telephone Kiosks and Public Amenities
    Traffic and Road Signs

    For Northall Dock I selected the following:
     
    1.Advertising sings – ghost sign on one of the buildings
    4. Bollards
    7. Street Lightning – lamp on the wall of the central warehouse
    8. Covers and gratings – hydrant ground cover and wall sign
    9. Surfacing – small sidewalk along the warehouses
    11. Street name signs – street names for all the roads and alleys in the diorama
    13. Traffic and road signs – optional
     

    Some street furniture illustrations.
     
    The Hounslow guide describes also the colour that should be used:
    The colour of all street furniture should be Black, RAL No. 9005 (with the exception of natural wood) unless there is an opportunity to use good quality austenitic stainless steel, particularly in conservation areas or areas of special distinctiveness.
    I will also use period colour pictures as a guide.
     
    The most difficult for me are the street name signs. In my research on the internet I saw different types of street name signs in London. There is a nice set at Flickr. It wasn’t always clear to me in what period which street name signs were used. So I decided to use street name signs without borough names. If anyone can give me more information on this subject its welcome.
     
    Making pavements along the buildings asks for some new planning for the road and alleys. I think that I also have to make some more detailed designs for the two other warehouses.
     
    Some modelling progress , which goes slowly at the moment, again next week.
     
    Regards,
    Job
  13. Job's Modelling
    “My aim in creating a diorama is to capture the essence of an urban, railway “connected”, scene in the late 1950’s”
     
    After building building Bridge Street I covered it with plastic against dust. This meant that it wasn’t visible any more. I also have to keep my hobby/work room as much as possible dust free because I’m very allergic.
    After a visit by Ikea I saw the APA box. After reading the user guide I decided to buy one to see if it was possible to build a convincing diorama in it.
    On an American website I found some information about how to create an interesting diorama. Later on I found a free e-book on diorama / black box design from Sheperd Paine, who builds mostly military diorama’s.
     
    First of all I started to describe my theme:
     
     

    · British Railways (Western Region)
    · 1955 – 1961
    · Urban surrounding in an fictive neighbourhood
    · British Railways (Road Service)  
    After this I described how to design the diorama in the APA-box.
     
     

    1. Dividing the base into thirds. (see diagram )  

     

    2. Dividing, if possible, the height into thirds.
    3.. Try to place the most important elements where these lines intersect (red crosses).
    4.. Design from the inside out. First arrange the main scene
    5.. Make sure your topic is suited to a single viewpoint.
    6.. Use the figure arrangement to create the rest of the scene
    7.. Decide on the size of the viewing window
    8.. Make a planning of the lightning  
    Below the main scene of urban scene. I would call this diorama Nice Street now.
    More about Nice Street in a later entry.
     

     
    Main scene.
  14. Job's Modelling
    Try out …
    It is too hot for modelling and I also suffer again with hay fever eyes.
    So I did some research and thinking about my story telling idea.
     
    I found a wonderful description of a 1950’s week in the UK. So much similar the way I grew up in Utrecht in the 1950’s. This would give me the opportunity to create a serial of diorama’s that could give a good picture of daily live in Northall in the late 1950’s.
     
    To try this idea out I used one of my old diorama’s and made a story to it. So not much new here on modelling, but another approach.
     
    Do you think I’m on the right way?
    Here is a chapter from “A week in Northall”
     
    Bridge Street on Saturday morning
     
     
    Arthur had to work on Saturday morning. He is almost finished for today and he has only to do some parcel delivery’s at Bridge Street. He is coming from North Street passing Berkel & Parnalls Manufacturing Co. Ltd. producing motorcar accessories on his left hand.
     
     




     
    On his right hand is Dixons fish and chips shop. Arthur and also some of his colleagues sometimes uses their lunch here. But mostly his lunch is some sandwiches Christine made for him.
    On Friday afternoon Dixons fish and chips shop is very busy, when house wife’s buy fish and chips for dinner.
     
     




     
    Around the corner he passes the Express Dairy van from Mr. Bill Fulford, the milkman. Saturday was the day to pay him. Mrs Doreen Dacras has just paid her bill and they are talking about the latest local news. There was a shocking article about a murder on Orcadia Place in the latest Northall Gazette.
     
     




     
    On No 3 Bridge Street lives the Bertram Farrance with his wife Mary. Mr Farrance works as a clerk in the office of Berkel & Parnalls. Mary is an old school friend of Christine and on Thursday afternoon they visit each other.
     
    His next stop is at the Great Eastern Pub. The pub is locally well known for its own ‘house’ darts competition. The pub champion then moved on to the Area final of the The News of the World Individual darts tournament.
    It is not money they are playing for but a huge trophy. This trophy may be held by the champion’s pub for a year, plus a replica for the winner and fame. The NoW was the chance for any man, who could throw a great dart to become not only a local but also a national hero.
    Arthur’s colleague Maurice Cullam takes every year of this great event. He is also a member of the pubs dart team.
     
    The pub occupier is Dudley Drury. He is a collector of shipping posters of the Great Railway Company’s before 1948. In the pub he has exposed his collection.
     
     




     
    Dudley is also great expert of Scottish whiskey’s. He has ordered a bottle of Ambassador 25 year old Blended Scotch Whisky for personal use. This whiskey is distilled in the 1920s and bottled late 1940s to early 1950s.
    Today Arthur is delivering the bottle he ordered directly from Taylor & Ferguson Ltd.
     
    After having a nice cup of tea from Mr. Drury he continues his way.
     
     




     
    He is passing the viaduct on his way to his last client. Today he is not driving his Austin 3way van, that has some technical problems. He is using the Morris J van in the old British Railway colours.
    Next to the road is the no longer used railway freight line to Northall Dock. The businesses that are located there are more and more using road transport or are moving to other parts of Northall.
    On top of the viaduct is the line between Stowerton and London. This line is mostly used by workers and students.
     
     




     
    Under the viaduct are advertising posters. One of them is the well know DRINKA PINTA MILKA DAY POSTER from Patrick Tilley.
     
     




     
    His latest client is John Grantham F.C.A. John Grantham’s father was an agent for Morse’s Teas and became a grocer in 1935.
    In 1956 John took over the grocery shop from his father. He lives with his wife and 2 sons above the store.
    For the grocery he has some boxes of Drury coffee’s
     
     




     
    After he is ready he goes back to the Northall Goods Depot. When he has finished his job on the Depot he can go home and enjoy his well-deserved weekend.
     
     
    And for those who liked it the PDF version:
    Bridge Street.pdf
     
    Kind regards,
    Job
     
    PS.
    I changed the cup of coffee in a cup of tea. Also in the PDF version.
  15. Job's Modelling
    As I wrote before, for my new diorama Station Road I need some “top quality” painted figures. By top quality I mean the best I can achieve at this moment.
     
    This is my second attempt painting a figure at my best at this moment.
    I used artist acrylic paints, different branches. I uses opaque colours for the basecoats and half-transparent and transparent colours for highlighting. For shadowing a mixture of my base colour with Payne’s grey or black.
     
    The base colours are diluted 1:1 with matt acrylic medium.
    Washes are diluted 1:5 with Galeria flow improver.
     
    I used the same method as for the girl in the yellow dress.
     
    Figure analysing
    Search for reference pictures.
    Analyse where indirect shadows will fall on your figure.
     
    My painting sequence this time:
     
     

    1. I choose a colour scheme. I want the colours to reflect the identity of the character.
    I used an undertone of Payne’s grey for mixing the colours of the clothing using a reverence picture. In this way I try to create a consisting overall appearance.  

    Certain parts of your model would naturally look shaded and darker. I used a mix of three colours: a basic colour, a highlight colour and a shadow colour.  

    2. I applied a grey primer from Valejo, keeping the coat light so I didn't obscure any detail.  

    3. Then I painted the basecoat for skin and hands and I tried to apply some shading.  

    4. Then I painted the shirt. After that the jacket, trousers and shoes.  

    5. At last I painted the details.  
    After I got some advice from a professional art painter I decided not to varnish my model. This because my model will be standing in a diorama behind glass and I don’t have to handle frequently. Using gloves I can keep it clean. By using acryl paint your figure is water resistant so you could carefully clean it up with a little water.
     
    I used synthetic pencils from the Da Vinci. That was another advice I followed I got. This pencils are available with small points.
     

     

     
    Please your comments on this one.
     
     
    Regards,
    Job
  16. Job's Modelling
    Design
    As you could see on the drawing I designed three warehouses.
     
     
    The story
    The warehouse of Roope & Voss Ltd will be the main scene. The story behind the Roope & Voss Ltd – Wine and spirit merchants can be read in the article of the Northall Gazette.
     

     
     
    The Warehouse - from the Dutch architect Peter Potter (1854 -1918)
    The building is just quick build to see of:
    · the scene is convincing
    · the building has the right appearance
    · the colours are right
     

    Detailed picture of the scene.
     

     
    Main scene through the viewing opening.
     
    Question
     
     
     

    · What kind of stone can be used for a canal side dock?
    · Is normal brick work an option?  
     

    Regards,
    Job
  17. Job's Modelling
    After my experiment with pastels I now I used mainly acrylic paints and in the end some pastels. This time I painted the horse that came with the Langley kit of the Hansom Cab.
    I did also some additional search on internet about the background of the Hansom Cab. Doing this I came along this interesting website http://www.gail-thornton.co.uk/index.php . A lot of information about wagons and carts used in the past.
     
    The starting point: the horse from the Langley kit. This time I also found a nice reference picture that I could use.
    I glued the horse to the wooden base using PVA glue. In this way it easy to handle.
     

     
    After cleaning it from flashes and cleaning it, the next step was to give it a coat of primer. In this case I used Vallejo grey primer.
    Then I have put the basic colours on. Because I used Citadel paint I didn’t need to dilute the paint 1:1. I let the base colours dry for 3 hours (actually a night).

     
    With Reikland Flasshade (a wash), using a small brush, I got along the edges of the harness to bring the colours more together. After drying I painted the whole horse wit the wash to sharpen up the painting and provide shadows.

     
    With diluted paint 1:2 I painted the small details. I also gave the harness a thin coating of black leather from Scalecolor.
     
    Then I gave the horse a total wash with diluted 1:5 with Ratskin Flesh for the horse and Vallejo black wash for the harness. Because the wash is transparent the base colour showed through.
    As a finish I gave the horse a layer with Vallejo satin varnish. Then I used some Schminke pastels for the final touch. The horse doesn’t look shiny anymore.

     
    I used a tutorial from Internet as a guide and used also the advices from some members of the RM web. I will thank them for their advice.
    Painting more figures will give me more experience.
    I'm curious about your opinion about this one.
     
    Kind regards,
    Job
  18. Job's Modelling
    I have finished my Church Street diorama. Another street in my fictive town of Northall.
    I started to create a base. The base is build up with 3cm high card strips on a MDF base.
    First, I finished the Assurance Agency. I used textures from several Scalescenes kits.
    To finish my diorama, I had to add some pavement in front of the Assurance office. There were also some minor gaps, between the building and the street, I had to fill in. I used some Woodland scenic earth to fill it and gave it some colour with olive green pastel. I also added some grass from Mini Natur against the wall to the back yard and on the corner of the shop.
    Finally, I placed my British Railway van in front of the pub. This van I will use on all my diorama’s and can easily be replaced by another car. It is Western based and fits in the right area. Using the van in every layout will give the illusion of a delivery route for the van.

    For the picture, with just the diorama, I was inspirited by the website of Petite Properties. I think this can be improved by learning how to use my photo program better.
    The other two pictures give a street view of Church Street. One is the original picture I made, the other one is photoshopped to create a late 1950’s look.

    original picture

    late 1950's look
     
    Any suggestion or comments are welcome.
     
    ​Kind regards,
     
    Job
  19. Job's Modelling

    L shape design

    By Job's Modelling,

    I have created the solution of the L-shape design I described in one of my earlier entries.
     
    The yellow ware house has disappeared. I build a new warehouse for the builders merchant. It’s a pity, because I still like the yellow building. For those who didn't read my motivation I described in an answer on a reply of Mikkel:
     
    “Let’s have a look at the colors:
    grey - roofs, road and sky
    dark brown - the building behind the cottage and the building with the Morse ghost sign
    "red/yellow" - the warehouse and the roof of the cottage ( I think they respond to each other)
    yellow - the builders merchants warehouse
    "white" - the cottage ( but that has a beautiful red/yellow roof ); and is Mikkel and mine’s favourite building.
     
    The only separate building in color is the yellow one.
     

     
    I decided to use the same texture from Scalescenes I used for the warehouse behind the cottage.
     
    First I made a new design using a picture I found somewhere on the internet.
     

     
    Then I searched for a door and windows keeping in mind that the building is meanly used in the diorama as a background model. I did some testing with several colours and found thes the most useful.
     

     
    I finished the building with a slated roof. I used again the same texture as for the warehouse behind the cottage. The texture of the slated roof is made by using a texture from CGtextures.
     

     
    The final questions are:
     


    - Is the L-shape I had in mind working for the diorama?
    - Did I manage to create a more balanced diorama?
    - Do less colors create a diorama where the focus is on the scene you want to create?  
    It is up to you to give answer to these questions. To help you I will give you the final picture of the buildings. Now I have to concentrate me on the road to finish the diorama.
     

     
    Regards,
    Job
  20. Job's Modelling
    I started with the road along the warehouses. Progress is going slowly. After every step I had to wait for 24 for hours before I could do the next step:
    1. glued track on the baseboard
    2. spray painted the track with a primer
    3. painted the track with Humbrol acrylic rust paint
    4. painted the track with Tamiya gun metal
     

    road modeling progress
     
    Then I looked how I could to make the card road. I noticed that it take more time than I thought. Progress will go slowly:
     
     

    - Fitting the card
    - Fitting possible details
    - Embossing the road setts
    - Weathering the road  
    I also did some research to see how the road along the warehouses could be modeled. Found some excellent pictures from Wharf warehouses in London.
    I like to create as much as possible essential details in the diorama, because the details make it worth looking around. Looking at the pictures I noticed I had to do some further research on street furniture ( objects and signs). I have added two pictures to give you an impression of what I mean:
     

    Bankside - 1960's
     

    Warehouses in Clink Street - 1978
     
    Regards,
    Job
  21. Job's Modelling
    After the evaluation and the reading of some literature about building a shadow box diorama I will try a different approach.
     
    In his articles about creating a artful diorama, Ray Anderson mentioned that the following things will help any diorama:
     
     

    1. Tell a simple story. You can hold the viewer’s attention for a minute or two at most.
    After finishing Northall Dock and reviewing the title of the diorama scene should have been “going to the pub”  

     

    2. The figures should be “small jewels”.
    On this point I have to learn and practice more.  

     

    3. The piece should be as small as possible to create a personal, intimate feeling. The scene should surround the viewer, making him feel part of the action instead of remote from it.
    So I decided to follow a different approach. Instead of building one diorama in a APA-box I will build two small scenes with the same theme.  

    4. There should be many minute, eye-catching details.
    This aspect is one of my favorites. Looking for small time based details to make the scene come alive.  

    5. Lighting should be indirect, often coming from the side to provide high shadow relief.
    After finding my led-light set I have the possibility to create a better lightning. I will try out Mikkel’s advice to put the lights more down.  

    6. Elaborate costumes are a great attention-getters and crowd-pleasers.
    I this case I would recommended a look at the figures of The Farting Layouts. Edwardian clothing is just great to achieve this. I try to find typical clothing styles for the period I’m building.  

    7. The overall effect of the diorama should be that they were created during the period depicted.
    Period pictures are very useful to create a convincing total scene.  
    With my experience of designing and building my previous diorama’s and the advice's of Ray Anderson I designed “Station Road – Shops under arches”.
    To see if the two dimensional design is correct I will build a three dimensional try-out.
    For the size I used the golden rectangle . So the size of this micro diorama is about 30 x 18,5 cm
     

     
    For this diorama I will only use textures from Scalescenes, except for the time period details and shop signs. If I hadn’t found his website a view years ago I wouldn’t have been modelling now.
     
    Regards,
    Job
  22. Job's Modelling

    PERSONALITY

    By Job's Modelling,

    NO THIS IS NOT ABOUT ME!
    This is about figure painting.
     
    If you like some appropriate background music to this entry open the link below :

     
    For my new diorama Station Road I need some “top quality” painted figures. By top quality I mean the best I can achieve at this moment.
    The first step was to read chapter 5 of Sheperd Paine’s book How to build diorama’s. After reading I made a small painting guide for myself as a reference during my paint job.
     
    I used artist acrylic paints, different branches, which are diluted with an acrylic mat medium. I selected just a couple of colours for painting this figure.
     
    Figure analyzing
    Search for reference pictures.
    Analyse where indirect shadows will fall on your figure, using a light about 30 cm above it, with the light striking the top of surface of the figure at an angel of about 60 degrees.
    Rotate the figure. Make pictures from all four sides of your figure.
    Analyse for the body shadows and for clothing folds and wrinkles.
     
    If you know which side of the figure will be visible from the viewer’s side pay more attention to that side when you are painting your figure.
     
    I made pictures of my figure, in this case the pretty girl from the Monty Range, for analyzing.
     

     
    I made a painting handling device I saw somewhere on an American website.
    That worked very well for me.
     

     
    My painting sequence:
     
     
     
     

    1. I choose a colour scheme. I want the colours to reflect the identity of the character.  

    2. I applied an undercoat, keeping the coat light so I didn't obscure any detail.  

     
     
     
     

    3. Then I painted the base coat for skin, clothing and hair.  

     

    4. Shade the details. Certain parts of your model would naturally look shaded and darker. I used a mix of three colours: a basic colour, a highlight colour and a shadow colour.  

    5. I added with a color pencil some color for highlighting some details.  

    6. I have to protect the miniature with a diluted matte varnish.  

    To see of the pretty girl will fit in my new diorama I placed her in Nice Street. I tried to give her some personality. In my new diorama she is looking in a shopping window.
     

     
    I have learned again from this project. The most difficult part is the face and I’m not quit content with the result for this one. The great challenge here is not to overdo it.
     
    And of course I have to finish Northall Dock, but my barber offered me a model book for the hair and skin colour to do this one.
     
    Please your comments on this one.
     
     
    Regards,
     
    Job
  23. Job's Modelling
    You have already met Arthur Page (47) who lives in Caroline Street, although not properly introduced by me. So here is some more information about him to make him more alive:
    Arthur is born in Farthing - Wiltshire. He comes from a railway family. His father was a loco driver who regularly drove a loco along the freight line to Northall Dock. He started as a young led at Northall Goods Depot when he was 16 years old. So he is working for British Railways for more than thirty years.
    Arthur travels many miles with the Austin 3way van in Northall and the surrounding villages. He is very fond of the vehicle in spite of being heater-less and the toxic fumes he inhales from the engine in the cab. Apart from those obvious defects, Arthur is pleased that it has wind-up windows and a stylish but cheerful looking 'face'.
     
    The 3way van was very practical in use
     
     




     
    Not only in the 1950’s daily working by British Railways and other users. But also for me taking pictures of diliveries in Northall, because I don’t have to model open back doors or side doors.
     
    The car received a coat of Vallejo 76515 Light grey wash to dim the shining appearance.
    The wheels and black parts received a coat with Vallejo black wash.
     
     




     
    The underside and the wheels received a coat of Vallejo 76521 Oiled Earth wash.
    The wheels and some parts of the car are additionally weathered with some Vallejo paints and pigments.
     
     




     
    Background information:
     
    Work on the K8 as it was called in its prototype form, started in early 1946. But it soon became known as the 'Three-Way' van owing to its arrangement of double doors on both the nearside and offside, as well as at the rear, providing excellent access to the loading bay. It was a very forward looking design with its curved front and high driving position, making the visibility excellent compared to the competition.
     
    Production commenced early in 1947. Various changes had been made from the prototypes, which included the radiator grille, front bumper, access steps along with the wheels.
    The forward control cab gave good visibility a partition with window separates the cab from the steel body, with composite doors and toughened glass.
    The body had a timber frame with steel sheets attached, even the doors had a wooden frame. The large front windows gave a good view of the road, the driver’s side could be opened. Both the front doors had wind-down widows.
    So from the first vehicles been produced in 1947 to the last one coming off the line on September 1954 a total of over 26,500 had been made.
    This entry was made with the help of http://www.austinmemories.com/page67/page75/page75.html
     
    Kind regards,
    Job
  24. Job's Modelling
    Before I can finish the building of Fanshawe Ltd. I must decide what wall based street furniture I want to use.
     
    I spend a lot of time behind my PC searching for street names for Northall Dock.
    For Greater London there are several options. See the picture below.
     

     
    On Flickr there is a London Street Name Pool with a lot of pictures. I could skip all those modern type street name signs.
     
    I also tried to find names that refer to the scene of Northall Dock.
     
    For Northall Dock I will use the blue enamel signs. Not all street name signs are from Greater London, but they are blue enamel. After finding the picture I had to do some photo shopping to cut out the street names and resize them. I Used the brick height as a guide that means that the signs are 2 or 4 mm high in 4 mm.
     
    I chose for Northall Dock the following names and signs:
     

     
    Anchor Street will be used for the road along the warehouses.
    Canal Street for the alley between the buildings of Farnshaw Ltd and Roope & Voss.
    Waterford Road for the street along the cottage.
    The hydrant sign on the building of Roope & Voss.
    The “Bill stickers” sign in the alley.
     
    Next time again some modeling progress.
     
    Regards,
    Job
     
    PS.
     
    Today I had some time to model.
    And because I'm working on the premises of Fanshawe Ltd. I decided to put the name sign and the Bill Posters side on the side wall.
    I also created with the help of Publisher the Bill Posters is innocent "graffito" on the wall.
    Maybe not all perfect on the picture it will do in the diorama as later pictures will show.
     

     
    Hope you like my Post Scrip-tum.
     
    Job
  25. Job's Modelling
    The starting point.
     

     
    I built the factory yard wall in the front.
    Actually this is just straight forward modelling.
    I used the 6’ Industrial Wall and Gates from Railway Model Scenery a starting point. This is really a nice kit with a beautiful old wall texture. The colour of the wall didn’t fit to my industrial building. For the wall I used the same brick texture as for the Printing Works. The templates from this kit were used.
    I also decided to use the metal gate from the kit. I think this is just great. The wall copings are also from this kit. Next time I will use some thinner paper for this.
     
     
    Because I liked to try out some green for my urban diorama’s I searched on the internet for some usable products. Because of the postal cost I searched for a Dutch supplier. I found some nice products by a supplier for war-game materials.
    The product I have used are from miniNatur. I bought some long and shorts tufts for the seasons summer, early and late fall. The can be applied with some glue and a tweezer. After my first use I’m enthusiastic about the quality and the appearance. I have seen they have also other useful products, but that is for the future.
     
     
    The dustbin is from Dart Castings and the weathering is done in my usual way, with pastels and pigments.
     
    Below a picture of scene so far. I have given the figures a coat of primer and have still to paint them. I also have to build a chair for the sitting man.
     

     
    I hoped you like the result.
     
    Any comments, suggestions are additional information is welcome.
     
    Kind regards,
    Job
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