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How do you know which way to feed the thing onto the cutter?

The tool in the fly cutter can start to cut the work twice per revolution. As I have glued the whitemetal casting into a position that puts the edge hard against one edge of the fixture slot it is good practice to ensure that the tool rotates and takes a cut from the casting that will push it against the fixture edge rather than pull it away. The direction all depends on how you machine and position the part in the fixture. In the photos above the flycutter is rotating clockwise and the casting is against the back edge of the fixture slot. Therefore the feed needs to be from left to right. It is pretty sensible once you understand the cutting forces at work. Easier to do that explain I'm afraid. I hope it makes sense?

Morgan

Yes indeed it does Craig. I'm still suffering from PTSD after doing all the chads on Brinkley's turntable........wibble!

Thanks for the kind comments everyone.

Mark, Robin knows about some of the foreign jobs passing through the works. He's a very understanding chap.

Mike, your comments always seem to leave me with a sense of foreboding. Why do I need boots? Are we going down the pit?

Morgan

Very nice John. The Backwoods kits look good when they are finished but they are devils to put together. Well done!

John, you must have released the slip coach as I only counted 14. Looks great!

Hi Jon,

Yes it is a fire extinguisher. Larry has confirmed here...

http://www.rmweb.co....post__p__614857

Cheers....Morgan

Aww....Mark don't feel guilty I still have a half built rotary valve gear Crab to finish. This project has stalled until I can figure out a way to do scale UJ's for the cardan shafts. The cast ones supplied by Comet are very overscale but I can understand why. A 3D print is an option but I'm still undecided.

Mike, I'll probably weather the motion with a brush applied mix of Hubrol Metalcote "Gunmetal" and Gloss "Tan" #9. I'll then rely on the airbrush to add some selective areas of matt grime to tone it down.

Cheers....Morgan

Hi Nick,

I've only just noticed this blog entry. The weathering job on the body looks perfect. You must be pleased with it. How's the chassis going?

Cheers....Morgan

Hi John,

Very nicely detailed with pipework. It's looking good. I can now appreciate the clearance issues you described to me the other week. What min radius is it likely to encounter on Worseter?

Cheers.....Morgan

Wow, these look great. I was at Stormex and missed this. Now I understand what Shawplan Brian was talking about when we were chatting about 3D printing.

Hi Jon,

A very nice piece of modelling. Something I will be trying to emulate one day with my P4 Deltic. Mine will be two tone green and "as built" condition. I have all the bits from Brian H except for the resin noses. After a phone call a few days ago I'm hoping he has cast some this week for me to collect from Stormex tomorrow.

Cheers.....Morgan

Cheers Craig. Paul are you having html trouble? Best get in to see the doctor

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the compliment. The straights are done with a bow pen with corners brushed in with a fine sable brush (an 00 size Windsor and Newton series 7). My primary bow pen is from a Kern set that I picked up off Ebay for about £15. The pen needed a lot of honing and polishing but it now seems to be working well. This loco will actually be staying very clean as it is a OO gauge model that I'm building for someone else. However, the K1 is not really that alien for me as I'm an Eastern fan at heart. I do have my own Bradwell K1 in the cupboard along with numerous other products of Messers Gresley, Thompson and Peppercorn. I'm also a big Midland/LMS fan and being on the Barrow Road team makes building locos of those companies the main priority over the next few years. Having said that Thompson B1s were frequent visitors to Barrow Road in the 50s and 60s so I'll be tackling one of those in the medium term as well.

Cheers.....Morgan

Hi Mike,

I won't be painting this one but I am following the Ian Rathbone recipe with my own paint jobs now. In brief, the top coat on the 8F was cellulose sprayed through my Asturo gun. IIRC paint mix is at least 3 or 4 part thinners to 1 part paint. I intend to post a more detailed commentary on it in due course.

Cheers....Morgan

Thanks Jon. The glass had just been emptied of an appropriate liquor. Your comment has reminded me that I must build a small photographic diorama and, of course, I will provide more detail on the paint and equipment I use in future postings. Watch this space.

Cheers.....Morgan

Hi Dave,

Lovely looking loco and great to see some of the construction pictures. I'm glad I'm not the only one that goes a bit mad on detailing and pipework. It might take a long time but I've always thought that the litlle things really contribute to the overall character of the finished loco.

I also enjoyed the story about why you like the Caprotti 5s. It is 8Fs, Black 5s and B1s that do it for me and reflects all the time I spent at the preserved Great Central Railway when I was a teenager. I would exchange loco cleaning duties for footplate rides from my uncle when he was driving. Not sure the 'elf 'n' safety brigade would allow it now.

Cheers....Morgan

Maybe. If you keel over Paul has volunteered to give you the kiss of life.

Ah Mike, being the captain is one thing but you need to be backed up by a rivet counter like me as your Number 1 and even the cabin boy (Paul) has a keen eye for the stuff you can't see.

Cheers...Morgan

Agree with Ivan on that one. Long handrail knobs generally look wrong. Alternatively, in the past, I have used Alan Gibson shoulderless handrail knobs. Use a suitable thickness of card to set the handrail stand off from the boiler and smokebox whilst soldering in place.

A very neat build of a handsome locomotive by the way. I've been following your blog with interest.

Cheers....Morgan

I went home with a selection of Dulux colour cards yesterday. Trying to find a match for BR maroon is a devil of a job.... but at least the floor tiling in the hallway is nearly finished.

[sigh].....Foyled again!

"Ming".......I meant "mind"....damn fingers

Hi John,

Looks fantastic and well done getting to the end of this rather difficult road. Am I right in thinking that early on these locos were painted black? Ming you they look much better in a nice coat of red paint.

Cheers....Morgan

P.S. The wheels in the one I made were Romfords but were changed for Sharmans

Hi John,

Looking very nice. Glad to see you won the battle with the chassis. It should be straightforward from here.

Cheers...Morgan