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Over the last few months I've had a couple of DJH Gresley A3s on the workbench. In itself there is nothing special about the two builds. However every now and then a small construction problem requires an unconventional approach. Having said that it is only unconventional if one is not familiar with using machine tools in their modelling. I certainly don't want this to be seen as an attempt to sneer at those that do not have machining facilities but rather I hope it will show people that do have the equipment or are even considering buying a lathe or milling machine the sort of things that can be done to lift the quality and finish on your models. Credit must go to a friend of mine, Mick Moore, who I saw last weekend and he reminded me of the techinque I'm about to show. Prelude The problem is best shown in the photos below..... The DJH kit provides a pair of piston valve cover castings that have to be attached to the running plate castings. One is shown below in situ. However the castings themselves are a little too tall and also a bit tapered from inside to outside. The photo is not as clear as I'd like (used my phone camera) but I think the basic problem is shown. The top of the casting should be flush with the top of the frame edge just to the left. Measurements with the calipers confirmed that the casting height was 0.25 to 0.35mm taller than it should be. Of course it would be possible to attack the bottom face of the casting with a file but holding the part securely whilst trying to do this and get the face reduced in height, square and flat would be rather tricky. The amount of material needing to be removed was far more than just removing a few high spots. So I decided that this was a job for my Unimat 3 in milling configuration and the task has 5 distinct parts to it. Part 1 - Making a fixture. With such a thin and soft whitemetal casting clamping something directly into the machine vice is just not going to be possible. Even if it were setting the work up square to the milling cutter in 2 planes would also be very problematic. The answer was to make a fixture to hold the parts from a block of aluminium. Any suitable material, brass, tufnol or similar would be ok but it just so happened that I had a bit of aluminium the right size. After clamping in the machine vice the top face has been cleaned up square and a slot slightly wider than the castings has been milled down the centre of the block. The depth of the slot is just a bit less than the final thickness of the castings to give tool clearance and maximum support during the final operation. The photo below shows the finished fixture. In this case there is a slight complication as the casting has a raised sandbox filler lid on the face to be located in the slot. A couple of counterbored holes needed to be put into the base of the slot so that I could locate two castings at the same time to fly cut the bottom faces. Part 2 - Holding the work and setting up to cut. As Mick reminded me last weekend when machining something soft like whitemetal or plastic it is quite feasible to use glue to hold the work. His recommendation is a 2 part epoxy. Now I think he uses the full on 24 hour cure stuff however I'm a bit impatient so I tried 5 minute epoxy but left it for at least 3 hours before machining again to achieve some strength and hardness. This photo shows the parts glued in place. I've tried to avoid using glue in the bottom of the slot instead building up some glue on the edges in a few places to stop the part from sliding when the cutter traverses the work. You will also notice a black mark on one of the castings. This is the thickest part of the 2 castings, measured with a micrometer, and the actual size "2.07" millimeters has been marked on the fixture as a reminder. Once I was sure the glue had gone off (about half an hour or so) I set the machine up ready to take the first cut. I planned to do this with a fly cutter rather than an end mill as this method is a bit more controllable and gives a better surface finish. Also whitemetal can clog the flutes on an end mill. After checking the tool bit was sharp and honed I set the flycutter into the quill of the machine and moved the tip of the cutter over to the black mark. I then moved the quill by hand over the mark whilst simultaneously moving the cutter down until it just contacted the work. It isn't that easy to see in the attached photo but a couple of bright marks have appeared in the black where the tool face has just cleaned off the surface. The zero position is now set and sufficient material will need to be removed to get the castings to 1.70mm overall. Part 3 - Fly cutting the work After what seemed like more than 3 hours (I really am that impatient) the job and glue looked like it was ready to take the first cut. I was careful to feed the fly cutter across the parts in a direction and position that pushed the castings into the rear edge of the slot. Any movement or snatch on the first cut would have been disasterous. The vertical feed was very cautious at only 0.05mm per pass but after the first one the castings had partially cleaned up as shown below. After a further 2 passes (0.15mm removed) the faces had fully cleaned up. So far so good and a further 4 passes (7 in total) were taken to get the part to the theoretical size. (i.e. 2.07-0.35 = 1.72mm). Given the style of the fixture accurate measurement of the finished size is a bit of a leap of faith but you have to rely on the accuracy of the initial measurements and have familiarity with your machine. The parts looked like this after the final pass and I set about removing them from the fixture. Part 4 - Removing the work This is where I had a little bit of self made difficulty by not making the slot wide enough to get access with a small chiselling tool to prise the glue bead off. In the end I brushed a bit of cellulose thinner onto the parts to soften the glue but it still took a little bit of heat to get the glue to give up it's grab completely. This was a bit nerve racking as the parts are whitemetal. Indirect heat applied to the aluminium fixture with a small cook's blow torch whilst keeping my finger on the top of the block to make sure it didn't get too hot was the safest way to proceed. The glue softened and I was able to lever the parts off without damage with the tip of a craft knife blade. Phew! Part 5 - Final fettling With the two casting safely off the fixture all that was needed was a clean up of the edges to remove any machining burrs and excess epoxy. A check with the micrometer confirmed the thickness of the castings to now be consistently 1.69mm at every location I checked around the perimeter of the parts. Just about perfect! A dry fit was carried out on one of the A3 running plates and the results were exactly as required. Flush and square with the frame edge. Whilst I've been doing this blog entry the second pair of castings have been mounted to the fixture and the glue is curing. So is it worth it? Well I think so but I have been known to go to extraordinary lengths in my modelling. Perhaps it has given one or two readers ideas of their own..... Cheers.....Morgan

When I mentioned the Finney V2 I wasn't really thinking about the financial aspect of having one only the accuracy stakes. What I don't agree with is that a Finney kit is difficult to build. Time consuming it may be but difficultly is only based on whether the builder has the necessary skills. Anything can be perceived as difficult if you have don't know how to do it. I'm in a fortunate position, I guess, to be able to build my own kits having acquired the skills over successive years of practice and not admitting defeat when things don't go as planned. In fact planning has become the most important aspect of any locomotive I build. I'll also admit that I get most of my modelling enjoyment from building things rather than running them on a layout but when they do I want them to look just right. As a consequence the total acquisition cost of a Finney kit does not mean as much to me as it obviously does to others. We all have different criteria / opinions and that is a healthy thing. It has been said before but Bachmann really dropped the ball by not retooling the body on the latest V2. Cheers....Morgan

Everyone seems to have forgotten that probably the nicest V2 in kit form (both 4mm and 7mm) comes from Martin Finney. http://website.lineone.net/~cbwesson/V2.htm

Yes indeed it does Craig. I'm still suffering from PTSD after doing all the chads on Brinkley's turntable........wibble!

Thanks for the kind comments everyone. Mark, Robin knows about some of the foreign jobs passing through the works. He's a very understanding chap. Mike, your comments always seem to leave me with a sense of foreboding. Why do I need boots? Are we going down the pit? Morgan

The latest loco to be put through the paint shops has been a Craftsman A5 4-6-2 tank engine. Now finished in LNER lined black livery and numbered correctly the loco body as received was carrying a rather peculiar number and a poor paint job. The brief was to improve and repaint. The model was thrown in jar of paint stripper which also dispensed with a few of the plastic items. I found that whilst it appeared to be largely soldered together quite a few parts had been glued on. What had been soldered really needed to be re-done as it was only tacked instead of properly seam soldered. The best approach was to attack the stripped and cleaned model with a small blow torch and watch it fall apart before my eyes. When all the component parts had been cleaned up as much as possible the kit was reassembled. Dome, snifting valve, footsteps and handrails were replaced for better and appropriate items for the early LNER period. Painting followed my normal procedure with one additional step. The re-use of parts meant that one or two had a few scrapes and gouges which needed to be covered up. After etch priming the model received three successive coats of a high build cellulose grey primer. This has been very effective and the application of the gloss black resulted in a very smooth finish. Lining was done with a bow pen directly on to the model with a few pieces lined on black decal sheet (boiler bands and a couple of small inaccessible areas). Transfers are HMRS pressfix and a final coat of Ronseal gloss varnish, let down with a little matting agent, finishes it all off. All in all quite a satisfying restoration job. Finished After rebuilding What I got in the post Dont ask me why it was carrying a number for a Q1 0-8-0T

Last week during a trip to the USA I was able to find some time to check out some of the local rail operations. Prior contact with some of the local railroad enthusiasts meant I made the most of my free time. As a result I saw some great "big diesel" action over a couple of afternoons at the lineside. Many thanks must go to this friendly bunch. Although I'm fairly new to watching trains in the USA I'd say Memphis is a pretty good location. If you know where to go trains are pretty regular and diverse. I saw locos from 4 major operators CSX-T, BNSF, NS and UP (CN and Amtrak can also be seen in Memphis) with a variety on consists. A much more in depth and interesting view on the Memphis railroads and a lot more besides can be found by browsing Mike Condren's web pages..... http://condrenrails....road-pages.html

Very nice John. The Backwoods kits look good when they are finished but they are devils to put together. Well done!

John, you must have released the slip coach as I only counted 14. Looks great!

I wonder if trying something along the lines explained here might be a route to making more convincing water crane bags. Reading part 2 of Gordon Gravett's article in MRJ213 reminded me about the technique. He used it to make the sails on his North Devon barges with rather stunning results.

Brilliant thanks for to all who responded. It seems blindingly obvious what it is now. I guess the more difficult question is from what date did fire extinguisher blisters appear on the ends?

Hopefully this will be an easy one to answer? Can someone tell me what this half cylinder shape is on the end of LMS P3 coaches? I've noticed it is a few pictures of P3 stock in their late BR days. Is it something to do with ETH? Thanks....Morgan

I checked the Bachmann website the other night too see what they have listed for the Porthole stock 39-450 LMS 57 ft Porthole Corridor 3rd BR Crimson & Cream 39-455 LMS 57 ft Porthole Corridor 1st BR Crimson & Cream 39-460 LMS 57 ft Porthole Corridor Brake 3rd BR Crimson & Cream 39-465 LMS 60 ft Porthole Corridor Composite BR Crimson & Cream 39-470 LMS 60 ft Porthole Corridor Brake 1st BR Crimson & Cream 39-475 LMS 60 ft Porthole Open Vestibule BR Crimson & Cream I then checked the diagram numbers (in the same order as listed above) from Jenkinson D2170, 57ft, TK D2162, 57ft, FK D2161, 57ft, BTK D2159, 60ft, CK D2168, 60ft, BFK D2160, 60ft, FO (the only type of Porthole open) To their credit it appears that they are releasing a model of every type of Porthole coach ever built. Lets hope the subtleties of the BTK and CK are captured. The only picture shown on their website (the BTK) does not have the deep eaves and side covering the top of the solebar.

Quite a while ago I said I'd post up a few comments about the painting process I employ on the locos featured in my blog. This blog entry has been in draft for some time because I've pondered over how much detail to include. In the end I guessed it would be best to publish and see what comments/questions arrive. The first stage of the painting process involves a thorough cleaning and degreasing. I can't really stress enough how much cleanliness is to the success of the whole process. I will typically give the model a number of cleaning steps to get every last vestige of gunge, flux and glass fibres off the model. Step one is the general clean and I've found the Cillit Bang Universal Degreaser and Grime & Lime products to be very useful for neutralising and removing the c-r-a-p. The next cleaning step is gentler with warm water and the ultrasonic bath. It is surprising how much crud still comes from unseen locations and if it is particularly bad I'm not averse to going back to do more of step one. Finally I will give the model a serious degrease by immersion and agitation in cellulose thinners. This will remove any oils, fats and residue that was missed by the first two steps. Don't forget that dunking in cellulose is not a good thing to do if your model has any plastic or glued together parts on it. Isopropyl Alcohol is a better option in this case. Once clean the locos are always handled whilst wearing disposable nitrile gloves, the un-powdered variety for preference, again thinking about cleanliness. The last thing you want is talcum powder falling onto your freshly cleaned or painted surface when you pull the gloves off. I get mine from a local safety supplies business along with the disposable "SOCO" suits I wear when spraying. The final and most essential piece of equipment is a breathing mask. Whilst cellulose paint and thinners is not as nasty as some paints it is still hazardous to health and appropriate steps need to be taken to protect yourself. The mask I use has activated carbon and particulate filters. Anything less is a waste of money and will not give adequate protection. One thing to remember for the beardies amongst us is that you will get a better seal on your mask if you shave off the fuzz beforehand. If you can smell the paint you are breathing it in. On to the painting proper the first step, for metal models, is to apply a coat of 2 pack etch primer. As far as I know the stuff I use is the same as the etch primer sold by Precision Paints. It smells the same and is the same beige colour. I purchased mine from a local trade vehicle paint supplier (i.e. 1 litre of paint and 1 litre of activator/thinner). 2 litres of etch primer cost about the same as 250ml from PP and I'll have enough to last me a long time with careful storage. The primer is made by Tetrosyl and for anyone who is interested in obtaining paint in the way I do this link may be a good starting point. The thinning ratios for spraying are 1 part paint, 1 part activator thinners and 2 parts cellulose thinners. If you follow the 1 part paint to 1 part activator thinners instructions on the tin the paint will form cobwebs and strings as it hits raised detail on the model. How do I know this.......? Essentially the paint is dry before it hits the model and that is the one thing that you don't want. I think that might be a good point to stop for now. After applying the primer the next stage cannot be tackled for at least 24 hours. So the best thing to do is get out of your alien autopsy outfit, pack up, have a cup of tea and wait until tomorrow.

Aww....Mark don't feel guilty I still have a half built rotary valve gear Crab to finish. This project has stalled until I can figure out a way to do scale UJ's for the cardan shafts. The cast ones supplied by Comet are very overscale but I can understand why. A 3D print is an option but I'm still undecided. Mike, I'll probably weather the motion with a brush applied mix of Hubrol Metalcote "Gunmetal" and Gloss "Tan" #9. I'll then rely on the airbrush to add some selective areas of matt grime to tone it down. Cheers....Morgan

Courtesy of Kempenfelt here are a couple of pictures of Barrowroad's re-liveried Horwich Mogul "42763". As I think was mentioned on an earlier entry this loco arrived as SLW's shopfloor last summer finished in early LMS livery. Photo below The loco was stripped and repainted at the same time as the 8F and K1 but I have only just finished off the lining. In this case I've used Fox transfers along with a bit of hand lining on the running plate. Prior to all this the loco needed a little work to bring it up to a late 1950's condition. This consisted of... Tender coal rails, revised front frames with lifting holes and cab doors using a Brassmasters detail etch Snap head rivetted smokebox wrapper done with Archer transfers Stuff still to do Paint rear buffer beam Tender plates Dirty cream walls inside the cab Cab glazing Coal and crew AJ coupling on the pony truck Final varnish coat A "3 weeks out of the works" light weathering job This is a big heavy loco and I reckon it will romp up Fishponds bank with 10 on......and no banker.

Hi Gilbert, Some more excellent photos. In the latest batch there is an articulated steel panelled twin behind your "rough" V2. Can you tell me the origin of these coaches please? Kit built, scratch built or something else? I've often seen photos of similar Gresley steel sided artics marshalled in Summer Saturday trains during the late 50's early 60's on the Birmingham to Bristol Midland mainline. It is an interesting piece of coaching stock that I'd like to model for the Barrow Road project. http://www.rmweb.co....rrowroads-blog/ Cheers....Morgan

Hi Nick, I've only just noticed this blog entry. The weathering job on the body looks perfect. You must be pleased with it. How's the chassis going? Cheers....Morgan

Hi John, Very nicely detailed with pipework. It's looking good. I can now appreciate the clearance issues you described to me the other week. What min radius is it likely to encounter on Worseter? Cheers.....Morgan

Wow, these look great. I was at Stormex and missed this. Now I understand what Shawplan Brian was talking about when we were chatting about 3D printing.

Actually they did. On freight turns to Westerleigh sidings from Birmingham. They would then roll on, light engine, to Barrow Road MPD for servicing. I have also heard of an anecdote from an ex-Barrow Road fitter that they once sent one over the roundhouse turntable with dire consequences. With all the other flights of fantasy bouncing around on this thread you'd be forgiven for thinking that this was a wind up too! But it's true.....Scout's honour!

Let's just hope that they have been to Manchester Museum of Science and Industry and been through the Beyer Peacock collection with a fine toothcomb. A selection of a few drawings and photograhs below. There are a lot more..... Link 1 Link 2 Link 3 Link 4 Link 5 Link 6 Link 7 Pre-ordered mine last night and I know my friend ordered one too.

Hi Jon, A very nice piece of modelling. Something I will be trying to emulate one day with my P4 Deltic. Mine will be two tone green and "as built" condition. I have all the bits from Brian H except for the resin noses. After a phone call a few days ago I'm hoping he has cast some this week for me to collect from Stormex tomorrow. Cheers.....Morgan

The last week has seen the lining and detail painting on Peppercorn K1, 62038, completed. Just prior to the dayshift knocking off the loco was shunted out into the yard for an impromptu photo session. The date is 13th December 1962 and this is the last time 62038 will look this clean prior to taking the short journey back to her home shed, 36A, Doncaster. In just over ten months 62038 will be withdrawn and condemned for scrap. In the wholesale scrapping of locomotives 62038 was a comparatively early casualty from this class on utility 2-6-0s. Less than 15 years from building to the cutters torch just highlights how rapid this transition process was. On something that was built to have a useful life of more than 40 years a more moderate approach to the replacement of steam would have probably seen her well into the 1980's. It is an interesting to think that instead of seeing the usual pair of Class 20s on the colliery trains where I grew up, every so often, your patience at the lineside would be rewarded by the distant bark and then sight of a K1 hauling HAA empties up the 1 in 100 from Colwick North Junction to the coal screens at Gedling pit. The date of this little flight on fantasy would be circa 1982. The reality is that the model below has been built from the excellent DMR etched brass 4mm scale kit. This is the first DMR product I have built and generally I have been very pleased with how it has gone together. Agreed that it does not have the detail or finesse of a Dave Bradwell K1 but equally it does not take as long to build. The main point is that, apart from a couple of issues with the valve gear, all the parts fit together well and the essential character of the prototype have been captured without making the construction overly complicated. The valve gear issues I encountered could partly be of my own making, influenced by my normal endeavours in P4. This model was built to 00 gauge and I find that it was necessary to add spacing washers in various places to get the rods oscillating parallel to the loco frames rather than at an unrealistic angle. The difficulty was that, having done this, I found a couple of locations where adjacent parts were fouling. The simplest way of explain this is to refer to the page from the instructions attached below. It is marked up with the modifications and adjustments I made to get a smooth and reliable mechanism. Other points to note in the construction (or Morganisms) are Tender coupling hook fabricated from 0.8mm brass rod shaped to look like the hoses between loco and tender. This idea was first shown here Hinged fall plate. A length of 0.8mm wire soldered along the front edge of the fall plate is pivotted in 2 short lengths of brass tube soldered to the back edge of the footplate. Coil sprung pickups fabricated from 33 SWG phosphor bronze wire. A series of photos on how to make them can be found by following this link Removable brake gear (pictures here) Sprung centre axle using a Brassmasters/Comet style hornblock sliding directly in the frame cut out. Even in 00 I do this as it improves the pick up and running qualities significantly The powerplant is a Mashima 1420 driving through a Highlevel Highflyer 40:1 gearbox onto the middle driving wheel. Control is DCC via a Train Control Systems MC2 decoder. In my next post I'll explain a bit more about the basic painting process.

<----- trying to look innocent. I couldn't possibly comment.