jimwal

6 hours ago, cheesysmith said:

just found this, pure class

 

 

 

 

Question, did the mk1 emu have a handwheel brake in the cab, if so, where was it?

The handbrake wheel is mounted in the front corner of the cab on the secondman's side. That is the left side looking at the picture above

Some years ago I had a similar problem with a Hornby 'Castle'. After removing the motor from the chassis I found it to be seized up.

Gripping the worm and holding the motor I was able to free it up.

I can't remember if I needed to use pliers to hold the worm initially, but be sure to protect the worm with a wrapping of card if you have to.

Once freed, a bit of oil on the motor bearings and it was fine.

Talking of the model items here those vents look to be two different manufacturers products. The larger ones may older tooling. Generally roof vents were the one size on the same vehicle.

I would be inclined to use the bigger ones on the coach and keep the smaller ones for a four or six wheel vehicle.

Jim

Parkside underframes from H & A models. 

The 3H parts are getting pretty brittle now going on how some of my wagons are losing bits. Most of  the older plastic kits are suffering the same though. 

Afraid I've got none that shape Richard! Clive's the expert with layered plasticard roofs.

Baz, where did you get the black 'mega motor' from and what size is it please.

TIA

Jim

The Ratio bogies I found rather fiddly to get assembled accurately and they can be flimsy. I have used etched bogie frame kits from MJT with the Ratio sideframes.

This produces a more robust unit with better riding qualities.

Just check the etched assembly is not twisted.

Comet Models list similar bogie frame kits. I believe they list 10ft ones, mine were 8ft.

MJT are on Dart Castings website and Comet is on Wizard Models.

Perspex strips 2.5" wide installed on my fiddleyard

Hi Clive, your valve gear conundrum; its called compromise.

Many years ago Hornby-Dublo made valve gear where the valve spindle and adjacent rods moved but the movement was quite slight. They didn't make it move into reverse to change the direction of the loco however.

On most, maybe all RTR models the return crank on one side is on the wrong side of the driving wheel centre, most of us turn a blind eye to it.

Like you, I'm aware of the shortcomings along with the 'H0' track laid to 3' minimum radius - about 3.5 chains in full size. The Braintree branch curve out of Witham is 10 chains I believe, as is the curve at Mangapps Railway, these are both checkrailed. In 4mm, 10 chains is approximately 8', far greater than many of us have room for.

I generally now build variations of stock not available RTR or kits. The kits are usually quicker than cut and shuts except some LMS coaches where Comet sides on Airfix stock is rapid and as a bonus gives more accurate roofs.

This gives greater visual satisfaction but can be more of a challenge to research. 

Hope you are keeping well in these times of social isolation. 

Jim

Build the compensated frames rigid. Just get them square and parallel and they will be fine.

There is a school of thought that with compensation that it doesn't matter if things are not too accurate.

In years of building and running models, I have learnt that the more quality and accuracy one can achieve, the better the running and the appearance.

Carriage building can get a bit tiring, you always feel you should build a rake of similar vehicles.

Take a break and do a few assorted wagons.

Jim

Hi Richard, your bogies. I take it these are sideframes only rather than complete bogie kits.

In which case I would make an independent metal frame. It can  be soldered up complete with bearings which then locate the sideframes in place. An advantage of metal is the ability to be able to make minor adjustment by twisting if the bogie does not sit flat.

A rail replacement bus should follow the nearest road . . . . .    

Hat, coat, . . . I'm gone!

Or use gloss black, the inside of the coach will be darker than the outside. Particularly so with small windows high up.

Unless you intend running the coach in the dark with working lights! 

13 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Jim

 

I know we use to joke about the inhabitants of the Dengie Hundred, but is eating toilet rolls a local delicacy? 

Hi Clive,

You never know where they might have all ended up!

Talk of painting and dislike of, I've been putting off painting the outside of my house until now. Masonary paint around the whole of a 26'x34' 2 storey property. I could have used a good few of those panic bought bog rolls in the cleaning up.

It is one of those 'rountuit' jobs if not done now, will it ever get done?

Easter eggs...?   they'll be cheap this year.

The treats may be cabbage, brussels and tinned tomatoes followed by toilet rolls.

Richard, 0.9 wire would be better, vac pipes are about 3" diameter. If you can get hold of 1mm 'twin & earth' copper cable as used in house lighting wiring, it will be better as it is easier to bend. 

Answer; do the door vents, less chance of damage than underframe detail. When building any models I try to work by starting with the most robust parts and working to the delicate bits last.

Jim 

8 hours ago, Tim V said:

If it was built that recently, don't do anything more - return it as faulty.

In the circumstances, good advice. 

The advice was given based on what I would have done. 

I would find it easier to fix the item than to repackage and write out a letter explaining the problem.

However I appreciate that for many (perhaps most?) people this is not the case.

Sounds like something metallic has got in the insulating layer between the nickel-silver tyre and the Mazak centre. A black mark must show where the burning was occurring. Try clearing it with something pointed and then check with a meter preferably, or wires from the power supply to each side of the wheel insulation.

When you are absolutely certain the damaged insulation is clear of burnt material, fill it with epoxy adhesive.

Jim

It shows how things have gradually changed within the hobby.

Richard here is talking of his layout build including locos and rolling stock, making it a 'whole project'.

Many years ago we would build and/or buy the stock to use on friends, club and/or our own layouts.

Richard, targets are for work, the layout is your enjoyment.

It will take as long as it needs to achieve the standard you want.

Or you may continue to add details to a largely complete layout.

14 hours ago, richard i said:

Glad to here people are well. Could his car just be a flat battery if he has not driven it for a while with the isolating he is doing. ( mechanical knowledge reached its limits. ) 

I am sure John could have told me, but then I asked him the outside colour of his signal box and he told me he did not know because he always looked at it from the inside. So maybe not. 
I will assume it has just arrived and is on trial. Otherwise I have a far more substantial paint job on my hands, and I would need to generate Barton transfers.  It was only ever supposed to be a quick project to let me feel like I was having some modeling momentum, that and I now have an era appropriate double decker bus I can put on my bridge. In fairness the only roads I have are on bridges. Just to irk those who get annoyed by it. .............you know who you are. 
Richard.

Fred had arrived home from collecting medication, his car died as he turned on to his drive. His repair garage reported it would be over £1000 to fix which on an eighteen year old car was uneconomic.

Given John's box location (Colwick) I imagine the box colour may have become 'weathered coal black' or similar. I believe I remember him saying it had been due for closure for many years, so it probably never got repainted.

Jim

1 hour ago, Donington Road said:

 

We are all waiting for the picture of the lady.................with no boots

Apparently she could appear soon as the photo section may be closed by now.

Hi Richard, hope you are ok.

John Cluro had many Barton buses. Though they were 50s/60s period vehicles they all had maroon/crimson wheels.

Spoke to Keith and Fred yesterday, both are fine though Fred's car has died. He's written it off as too expensive to repair.

(Research has not yet determined if coronavirus attacks engine management systems.)

Retail closures and lockdowns should improve the 'green' credentials of the country.

As Witham member Keith T has invaded Richard I's thread and Clive likes seeing things we have built, I thought you all might like to see my latest effort.

It will represent a Midland Bain passenger brake van, Diagram 530A. Several lasted in traffic until the mid/late fifties. From the early fifties a number were converted for departmental use.

This one will be done in faded crimson for use in parcels or milk trains but ultimately I'm expecting it will become a riding van for the D&S Cowans crane.

The body of the model is cut and shut from a Ratio Midland Bain suburban 4 compartment brake 3rd whilst the roof is a Dart Castings 'Metro' profile resin item. The solebars and headstocks are from copperclad fibreglass strip with Comet models W irons. The strange shape buffers have been reshaped from buffers which I believe came from the remains of a continental loco I've had knocking about for decades! 

Plenty of detail still to add: springs and hangers, brake gear, lighting gear, steps, roof vents, a vent over the r/h door of each pair plus anything else I may find.

One of these vans lasted into the eighties according to a captioned photo in 'British Railway Engineer's Stock - 2' by G Gamble.

Jim