Jol Wilkinson

Could it also be that railway modelling can be, like some other hobbies, a solitary activity without the need for social contact with others? If people with Autism and Asperger have difficulty in relating to and being with others in a group environment, then they are possibly drawn to modelling (of any discipline) as a satisfying, solitary activity. When an individual with ASD gets involved in a group situation it can be very disruptive and damaging to the group's cohesion. At what point should the group's "health" take precedence over the individual's?

Another example of the perceived importance of Ferrari to the F1 circus. I believe it started when Ferrari threatened to leave F1 and consequently received a bigger slice of the cake for just turning up.

Surprised you didn't know if you have followed F1 for any time. It was Johnny Herbert.

London Road Models also do etched kits, wells, etc. for 42 and 50 foot CS turntables. There is also 60 ft version in the pipeline.

Transport costs are the same for one or two days, so the savings are not as great as some assume they would be. And, as you rightly say, the effort of collecting a hire van, loading it, etc. for just one day is a bit less appealing. If it ain't broke - as some like to think - there is no need to fix it.

Suggested you try a 5 to 10 percent solution, then rinse thoroughly with clean water (no responsibility taken!). With etched kits the Cif option always works for me. If adding w/m parts I usually use adhesive, but even if soldered on (Carr's 100 deg.) that approach stilll works.

Ian, my preference is for someting a little more modern. "Who knows where the time goes?" Fairport Convention with Sandy Denny's equisite voice. "Going down slow" Eric Clapton Jol

Iain, we are currently on holiday with friends in Portugal, one of whom is a recently retired industrial chemist, so I challenged him for an answer. If using phosphoric acid flux it is probably creating lead, tin, etc. phosphate. To remove/nutralise that a caustic soda solution should work. Check this with the Head of the Science Department. The late John Hayes, whose work appeared in the early MRJs, used this approach to clean/degrease his work at the end of each session. His models, before painting, were always immaculate - as they were when finished.

The LNWR put the Brake or Luggage classification first, which seems sensible. So you could say "it is in the first brake third" and know what is meant.

Ivan, FE-123 is reputedy very good, as are the Bilt Hamber products. I don't have any corrosion problems with our MGB (that I know of!), but have used FE-123 in a couple of places on the vertical upper seams inside the boot where there is very slight surface rust, as a preventative measure. Seems to work well.

Have you got any P4 profile wheels to go with them?

I don't know if the MOT covers unsafe load, bodywork unsafe for pedestrians, vehicle likely to cause mirth, etc.

As a member of the MGOC forum, it is clear that a number of otherwise well meaning owners don't have the experience, knowledge or expertise to maintain their vehicles correctly. A MOT provides a safety check and I responded to the Government proposal (one of about 1300 people to do so) requesting that the MOT be retained or replaced by a specific, safety related, Historic Vehicle Test. We now know the results of the Government review - which will be happily accepted by some.- and from which it is clear they have picked the easiest and probably more popular option, using some rather debatable accident/injury data to support their decision. A MOT garage, with good business sense, could do well to offer a safety test service, using the MOT as a basis but excluding the irrelevant emission test criteria. I will still get our MGB tested, either way.

Regrettably, Facebook has almost become a necessary evil. Increasingly it is the means by which small businesses promote their products. Frustrating when looking for a restaurant in a foreign city to find that, if you don't subscribe to FB, you often cannot find what's on the menu, etc. Likewise, the BBC News, etc.have Twitter and FB sites through which you are invited to get more up to date information. The LNWR Society now has FB pages, without access to which I am denied information they put in the public domain. Yes, I can join FB but I don't want to have to add yet another outlet for my personal data. Is privacy an issue? What internet data gathering does could be likened to stalking. Does that seem too dramatic? If someone followed you about continually and then started knocking on your door trying to sell you something, then you might get rather p*ss*d off. However, it seems to be seen as acceptable though electronic data gathering. From my wife's experience running a charity book sales outlet through Amazon, I still feel that profit comes before the businesses (people) they "serve". However, they and others like them have become so large, their grip on our daily activities are now beyond control.

Facebook is US owned company. It has US profit before people culture, like Amazon, Starbucks, Apple, Google, Microsoft and many others. Do not be surprised by anything they do or don't do.

Paul, thank you, indeed it should so prompted by your comment, I have amended my post. Jol

The instructions include some info on where to start the first curve, starting from the back. I use a pair of pliers with one concave and one convex jaw (supplied by Phil at Hobby Holidays) to form the curves, a little bit ar a time. I used to form the curves around the shank of suitably sizes drills, butfind the pliers better. A pair of square flat jaw pliers are also useful for flattening out bits that need it. N/s is stiffer then brass but I didn't need to anneal it.

A bit more progress on the Jubilee. The running plate and cab fitted. In the background the frames now have the front coupled axle hornblocks installed while the wheels and axles have been "prepared". Next is to build the brake gear which I intend to make removeable. I've also been spending time on building the test etch for a new London Road Models six wheel 30' 1" Inspection Saloon I've designed for John Redrup, together with modifying the artwork and making a start on the instructions. The end verandas are loosely fitted - designed for final installation after painting - which explains some obvious gaps.

John Redrup has asked me to advise that the next loco kit from London Road Models is the Ivatt LNER J5 (GNR J22). Twenty J5's were built in 1919/10, all lasting though to BR days, being scrapped between 1953 and 1955. Complete with tender, but requiring motor, wheels and gears, the kit is priced at £118.00 and will be on sale at Scaleforum on 23rd and 24th September in Aylesbury. Please note that the J5 is not yet listed on the LRM website. Twenty J5's were built in 1909/10, all lasting though to BR days, being scrapped between 1953 and 1955.

Where's the segment for spending time on social media talking(?) about then hobby? Or is that a different, much larger pie chart?

John, a friend has pinned wheels by cutting a slit in the end of the axle at about 30 - 45 degrees (across half the face of the end) and drilling into the wheel centre along that. A piece of n/s or brass wire is then used to pin the wheel to the axle. If you need the remove the wheel the pin will slide out of the slit. I am about to try that, on my next loco. Jol

See Tom Mallard's article on using Sharman Wheels on LSWR Black Motor 0-6-0s in MRJ 165 for some practical advice. While a lathe is useful you can gently ream the wheel bore if you have a pedestal drill (rotate by hand). Ultrascale Wheels have the best reputation for concentricity/run out of those currently available, partly achieved by a less tight fit on the axle. However that often means that the wheel needs pinning to the axle, something to be taken into account if you bore out AGW or SW wheels.

Ooops, forgot to post the photos of the tender. The tender is compensated with additional pickups on the rear axle. The loco will have pickups on the two coupled axles Progress on the loco: This shows the frames with the detachable cylinder/motion bracket assemble in place. The sprung bogie has also been assembled. This shows the start of forming the running plate to fit onto the valances. Things have been a bit slow, but the running plate is now finished and soldered onto the valances jig. The delay is down to building the test etch for a new London Road Models kit, a LNWR 30' 1" double veranda Inspection Saloon. Photos of that in due course in the Small Suppliers section.

Coastal Essex and north west Essex, where it border Suffolk, are two different countries with different languages and cultures. Other than the sea food restaurants in West Mersea, coastal Essex is best avoided.

It rather depends on the gauge you are building. The Mashima 12xx cans will fit between OO frames, the 12XX and 14xx (usually) between EM and P4. That's for etched frames (not the old 1/16" brass strip variety) and with the flat sides vertical. The High Level motor mounts usually have the cans with the flat sides horizontal (as per Arthur's picture of the J24) so the 10 series motors then would need to be above the frames for OO, but should be okay between EM or P4 frames. I have a couple of the Matsumi 3 pole motors but haven't used them in anger yet as I have sufficient Mashimas for the kits I have yet to build.