Jol Wilkinson

Amazing, that's the same sky we had over Suffolk a short time ago!

We had our own cruise boat for a while. At least that's what the wife thought it was, I was expected to be the crew.

You could always try a cruise on this. About 220 passengers and drinks at sensible prices. Most enjoyable.

You can take solace from the fact that it will cost less than buying a kit, wheels, etc. On the other hand I get satisfaction from the fact that my LNWR locos are my own work and that I enjoyed making them to represent specific prototypes.

In my experience a large number of modellers don't know that their other 4mm gauges than 00. My preferred response is now to ask them if they would like to be photographed wearing a dunces hat or just go away..

Anybody could do that, but you have a unique and special model.

And how many people would prfefer not to have ABS, RDS radios, traction control, self leveling headlamps, etc. Even these can usually be disabled if you prefer. Of course the gadget most people don't want is a hands free phone system, preferring to test their driving, juggling, typing and conversational skills at the same time.

The claim that DLRs dazzle is a bit off the mark. The DLRs on the 308 go off when the headlights turn on. The worst offenders in my experince is badly adjusted headlamps or those fitted to 4x4s which are mounted higher than average. In consequence they are nearer the eyeline of dirvers in ordinary cars and particularly when shining into door mirrors. If you drive a recent design of car with any of these feature, you should read the manual. They are usually selectable from the onboard menu. They are also design constrained by construction and use regulations. The fact that you may not like them is largely irrelevant.

I drive a new type Peugeot 308 and think the lighting system okay. Certainly better than on the Toyota Corolla I have just rented in NZ for three weeks. That had a dash indicator for sidelights but not dippped headlamps so you had to look at the stalk to make sure you had turned them if it was raining. It also lacked that useful 3 flashes you get on the indicators when you depress the indicator stalk, ideal for lane changing. On the 308 you can turn off the DLRs, etc. though the onboard menu.

The main advantages of Mashima motors were their sizes and the "power curves" they had. You could usually find somethng which would fit your chosen prototype or kit. The EMGS reviewed the commonly available model motors over the years, making comprehensive data available to their membership. Free running speed is less important than max. torque speed, while power (watts) is more relevant than current consumption - usually quoted free running - at max. recommended voltage. While the Mitsumi motor referred to is a good 3 pole motor (I have two in my bits box to try), I have yet to be convinced they will be a match for the Mashimas. The gearbox suppliers, Branchlines, HL, LRM, Comet, Markits, etc. will -as far as I know - all have to redesign their etches, commission new tools, etc.

Why have a clutch on only one output drive shaft? It would also need a support bearing at the output end, so can only be a flywheel.

Apparently the supply of magnets used by Mashima had ceased. The tooling was reportedly also getting to the end of its working life. Mr Mashima also wishec to retire. Such things do happen and, despite the economic opportunity apparently afforded by taking over the role of supplier, few people are willing to do it.

We tend to view models from a greater distance in relative terms than we do/did the real thing. So the impression of speed is different.

Changing the topic, but as you would appear to be a M/C enthusiast, why do some bikers insist on riding bikes which are so noisy - often with seemingly open exhausts? It appears that this is usually in towns/built up areas. Is it to cause the most annoyance?

In which case, the communicator has failed, the point I was making. It was once very clearly illustrated when my boss got a b*llocking from a senior director for failing to respond to a memo he hadn't received. Suffice to say, that did little for the director's reputation. Your point about the recipient understanding is well made. At least in a conversation you can recognise and deal with that. It is less easy with written forms of communication, especially on technical matters such as kit instructions.

Communication is the responsibility of the communicator, not the communicatee. So if u get wot i sez, ive suceeded. However, you may conclude I am an illiterate, inconsiderate person and whatever I have to say is worthless.

The speed limit in our village is 30mph. Your suggestion would mean 35, whereas 20 through the centre, passing the school, church and village hall would be sensible. Most drivers seem to think that 30 is a minimum. Another section -leading to open country has a number houses with "blind" drives leading onto it. Here the speed limit is seriously ignored, usually by drivers using their mobile phones. Sense doesn't apply in many peoples driving. The car is just a convenient fashion accessory to enable them to do whatever that want to do, irrespective of consideration for others,

Nor could I, so I have a London Road Models kit in stock. In the meanwhile I built the smaller wheeled Whitworth from the same stable. It's all a question of how much you really want something.

If you built a Coal Tank from the LRM kit, you could just leave the nickel silver beading unpainted!

I've never noticed, in all the photos in the library of LNWR books that I have, the "brightwork" on the tanks of any LNWR locos. It may be that I wasn't looking for it, that the photography of the time didn't show it too clearly or that natural in service weathering tones it down that it doesn't stand out. weathering. Perhaps the cleaners in some sheds didn't like it either so didn't follow the rule too closely. I certainly wouldn't paint my kit built locos to look like the Bachmann one but then again I have set my layout at 1907, so just preceding Whale's instruction.

I've had considerable problems with servo operation of signals, DC control ans kit built locos (no built in suppression) - albeit with another brand of Servo controller. Two important lessons I have learned is to use good quality servos with decent on-board electronics (SG90's aren't really good enough) and that using a Tam Valley No Buzz Servo Quieter seems to provide an answer (don't you just love the way the Yanks name things) These are available from DCC Coastal in Ipswich. http://www.coastaldcc.co.uk/products/tamvalley/accessories/ Long servo leads with the SG90's are a problem, which is why I tried to stick with the controllers I have (they also have a very good remote set up box). The problems are now sorted but it has been a long and sometimes frustration experience.

For those building Ratio 9' WB LNWR wagons and may not be aware, London Road Models now produce an etched underframe "conversion" that provides the option of springing/compensation. Etched axleguards also look, in my view, more realistic. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/115226-london-road-models-new-releases/

London Road Models and 247 Developments also do LNWR Plates for the Coal Tank. For those that want a LNWR lined version, Fox, Modelmaster and the HMRS produce thransfers. The enthusiasm for the Bachmann model is interesting. Will it promote further interest in the LNWR and LMS or is it just an indication of the attraction of "unusual" models to the collector? For those that feel inspired to model the LNWR or the ex LNWR sections of the LMS there is a wealth of information, kits and infrastructure components available. The problem appears to be that you actually have to make and paint something so will that deter people from going further than just buying the Bachmann product?

Vicks Vapour Rub, good idea ID, Might I also suggest, for those that are prone to picking up germs in crowded venues, airplane, etc. Boots Cold and Flu Defence Nasal Spray (please note English spelling MS/Google).

I've painted and fitted the LNWR loco lamps Alan sent for me to try. One lamp was printed with the LNWR "peg" which I fitted on the handrail/ejector pipe which is how lamps were sometimes stored when not in use. LNWR lamps had clear lenses back and front and could be used with a red filter. Alan provides both clear and red lenses so I assembled this one with red and clear and wedged onto the ejector pipe on a Watford Tank. The others are printed with a small hole tom take a piece of .45mm brass wire for mounting in the LNWR cast lamp socket. I assembled these with clear lenses and mounted two onto the outer bufferbeam sockets on a LNWR 2-4-0 Whitworth (Express code) and one each on Precursor and Watford Tanks in the socket above the smokebox door (Stopping Passenger Train). These are excellent items, although need care in handling - rather small - and look really good. I painted them with acrylic black paint and used varnish to glue the lenses in to start with. Alan recommends superglue so I then used that on the later two or three.