Steve51769

Hi Jon Sorry only just seen this reply - as far as I can remember you do need to swap the worm gear. I purchased a worm puller to do this but it wasn't needed. It came off easily with a pair of pliers on the shaft to push it along. The new motor is well worth the investment, mine now runs perfectly. Cheers Steve

Stratford 47 only just seen your reply . I purchased 1020D Coreless motor 12V with 7/10 mm adapters (2) + flywheel. It was a 15 minute job to swap it out. Only issue was the new motor needs a couple of winds of insulating tape around it to bulk it out to fit the frame otherwise it it too loose and slides backwards and forwards.

I purchased an N7 for £50 which had a motor fault. Replaced the motor with a new Tramfabrik motor and now runs like a dream.

A follow up to my earlier posting re. Stalling Oxford Rail N7. Thanks to the advice from PJR I purchased a new motor from Tramfabriek and have fitted it. It has the advantage over the original in that it has an additional flywheel. It now runs beautifully and very controllably. Job done.

A follow up to my earlier posting re. Stalling Oxford Rail N7. Thanks to the advice from PJR I purchased a new motor from Tramfabriek and have fitted it. It has the advantage over the original in that it has an additional flywheel. It now runs beautifully and very controllably. Job done. Steve

Getting back to the OP, I have the same issue with my N7 - does anyone know the spec of a replacement can motor for the N7?

It’s on DC and the wheels and rails are clean and current pick ups okay, it appears to be motor stall as nudging the flywheel resolves it.

I recently acquired a secondhand Oxford N7 - it's a beautiful looking model and runs very nicely 99% of the time, just occassionally it stalls and refuse to restart - either a quick tap on the top or removing the body and turning the flywheel gets it moving again. It's like there's a position on the motor armature where there is no electrical connectivity. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there an easy fix? Does the motor have to be replaced? If so where can I get one from? Any help greatly appreciated... Steve

They look fantastic, but will there be Crimson TLOs and CLs? The Accurascale website doesn't show any, only blue ones.

|Sadly not half etched. My drills are new, but don't appear to be good quality.

I’ve just started work on some Comet Mk1 CL coach side overlays. I was expecting them to come pre-drilled ready to fix hinges, door handles and grab handles etc. Sadly the sides are not drilled. I attempted to drill a hole for a T handle and found my drills barely scratched the surface. How do other people go about drilling the sides? Thanks in advance Steve

The Coronation set is nice if not a bit niche. They'e missed a trick,it must be about time for Hornby to produce a Gresley LNER Third Open to complement their current range. Thrid Opens were almost the most prolific type yet modellers have no RTR option. Perhaps it is time Accurascale or Bachmann brought out a range of Gresley Coaches.

Hi, I've got an old Airfix Class 31 that needs new traction tyres (was Airfix ref. 80009-3). Usually you can find compatibles, but I can find nothing online that lists itself as compatible. Does anyone know what alternatives fit? The inside diameter is 13mm amd the groove approx 1.5mm wide. Thank in advance Steve

Right, final update. I took miles73128 advice and used some spare Bachmann fixed couplings (shaped like vac pipes) that I had acquired with some Mk1s. Result - closer coupling, smoother running through curves and no derailing . Thanks to those who responded. One happy bunny here

Thanks for the suggestions. The coaches roll freely and the B2Bs are correct - I've supected the tension couplings on the auto aligners are the issue. However, I've followed Russ' suggestion and clipped 1mm off the bottom of the lift bars on the coupling hooks. This has made a great difference - they are not 100% better yet but no longer derail constantly on points and crossovers. I might try the Hunt couplings too - perhaps mounted on the bogie and dispense with the auto-aligner. I have had similar issues with the old Bachmann/Mainline couplings in the past, but even cutting the lifting bar on them does not always cure them. The chunky hooks seem to hold the coaches too tightly together preventing sufficient sideways play on crossovers.