cobach47

CGW have moved premises to the birmingham area

no i'm restoring a triang L1 kindly donated by a friend

early stages in my L1 tender rebuild ex triang

also the smokebox number plates came later - i put buffer beam numbers on mine

pressfix can be made into waterslide transfers by the following method - cut the tissue around the item peel it off the sheet -apply it to clear decal film - dampen the tissue and remove - then with a damp cloth remove excess adhesive - let it dry - varnish - cut out and apply

my 61xx transfers came from a HMRS pressfix sheet number 7 for GWR loco and coach insignia but only one set is provided

remove the magnet and turn it over

i used decals from cambridge custom transfers to finish my class B tank

peter spares does a replacement in cast brass - be careful as a friend had his chassis break into many bits - the chassis was a tight fit into the body which caused stress when removing the chassis eventually Hornby replaced the complete loco - start pestering Hornby !

no problem running on code 100 if you increase the back to back to 14.2 - 14.5mm

i have offered to repair the chassis on my friends T9, i think the motor housing can be done but the main problem is the crumbling chassis extention that the bogie fits to. It has all the tensile strength of a corn flake ! - when i was trying to find out how it was located it fell apart in my hand. The basic design was so flawed it never had a chance - seems the chassis has to rely on the body to hold it all together ! A scratchbuilt plastic front frame extension may be the answer. As many of you will be trying superglue for this repair it helps with porous surfaces to dampen the areas to be glued.

if you check the service sheet you will notice the chasis block has no number that means it is not available as a spare part i have been told by my friend with the broken T9 that Hornby will be issuing a new T9 but can't confirm at the moment

the method i use is to drill some small holes in both parts insert some pieces of stiff wire and use super glue i've repaired lots of broken chassis this way

hope this helps jim russells drawings having measured the 6ft wheelbase on the drawing which is 1 1/4 inches equates to 72 inches which is 6 ft if my calculations are correct that makes the drawing scale 1/57.6 therefore boiler diameter ( outside cladding ) is 4.2 feet if you print off the drawing check the distance between leading wheels and driving wheels it should be 1 1/4 inches if it is not let me know so i can supply the correct scale good luck - Ian

i have two lima 20's both run very slowly i ran one the other day pulling seven heavy freightliner hoppers. it may seem like going back in time but have you thought of getting hold of a contoller with half wave rectification by Hornby or H& M i have a Hornby one and i can make any loco crawl.

Try some t-cut on a cotton bud then wash off with detergent

Personally i prefer to use satin paints mainly revell and humbrol as the matt paints tend to leave a rough finish and have to be varnished before you can apply transfers. The trick is to put the paint in a pallette add a drop or two of white spirit and the paint flows better and you get less brushmarks. if you still need a matt finish try using "purity seal" from games workshop £9.50 for a large can lasts for ages. for example if you were using it on a coach side just one spray from end to end is usually enough and it drys quickly too. hope this helps

Hi Matt Had the same problem with Johnson's Kleer which is acrylic just wiped it off with a solution of household ammonia. Make sure you dilute it as it says on the bottle, i used a small jar and marked the ratio on the side. My wife didn't like the smell but we all have to make sacrifices. Good luck Ian