melvin

Since starting this topic I have so far not been successful in getting the pocket to stay fixed in the socket. However i have just noticed one ebay to other options. 1 Is a screw on pocket. 2. Is a glue on , both it seems replace the moulded one. Any one experience of either of this method.

I have a few of these, but there seems to be a problem. Initial set up works fine, but then the signal goes Red on its own and stays there. Neither will it change colour with a train passing. I have tried resetting the default address to no avail. Other non sensor signals work fine, they just match the address of the point. Answers any one.

Thanks Guys for the response. With the adhesives I have to hand. One was fixed in with Tacky Wax That ran for 30 minuets with out falling out. The other i used Deluxe Materials Glue & Glaze. Left that to dry. Wait & see on that one.

Did not explain myself properly did i What i meant was. The removable pocket with a triangular bit on the end that fits into a matching socket on a Loco/Coach that the tension lock fits into. I have two items of stock that the pocket keeps falling out.

I expect some of you have come across the way the coupling pocket is attached to the Loco/Coach. If this mount fails what do you do. On a Hornby Loco the socket is not a separate part. I suppose I could glue it in, but then there's a problem should you have to replace it. So as I have said a Dumb idea, no thought what so ever given to what can and does happen.

Thinking of using one of these to simplify my points operation. So have some questions Before i spend my money. First I have two manufacturers point systems. ZTC 302 Point motors. and the new digital Gaugemaster Pont Motors. Both have built in decoder, not via an accessory decoder. Looking at the Concepts web site it seems I need a power supply + a snifter + the switch box. BUT WILL IT WORK with the existing Point Motors.

Instead of using CR Signals. You could have used TrainTech. Give the signal an address, operate from your controller. No need for anything else. Or you can set the address to the same as a point, Point changes so does the signal.

Thanks Johnb. Thought so. Mel.

Planning in 00 using Peco Electrofrog points etc. Do I. Wire as convention ie. Power to the toe ???

Nothing to add to what's been already said. However. You should decide what colour your Dropper wires are. Black for the outer rail and Red for the inner. Or any pair of colours you fancy. No written law. Remember not to use these colours for anything else.

Have a look at Gaugemaster new Point Motors. Having had to replace a couple of old ZTC 302 motors I gave these a try. Very pleased. Compact, Built in decoder. Just a matter of setting its address. No requirement for an accessory decoder. Wired to the main bus. My power supply is 5amp, have no trouble switching any of my 20 odd points.

Thanks James. Will have a look at Shawplan.

Does anyone know where I can get parts for this project. In particular the correct buffers. Plus anything else you think I might need. Thank You.

I see your problem. Is there no way you can create more space. Put in a loop with auto reverse or a turntable. It seems to me you are creating a difficulty. That Black box with wires, can you move that to get some space?

Any one know how to remove the motor from this Loco. Can only see one screw on top that seems to retain it. Not tried to anything yet in the hope someone will know how. Regars. Mel.

Sorry i have been so long in replying to my original post. It does work once you get to grips with the system. The operation of locomotives is very smooth. Read & write is easy. However, Scrolling through the menu to find what you want is a bit fiddly easy to loose your way. I failed once to remove all locos from the track and programmed the lot to one address. Made a DPDT switch to stop this from happing again. I wont go on, just to say I have gone back to my old controller, probably because i have had it so long I can use it with eyes shut. I now use the unit on my independent test track for that it suits me fine, saves having to switch wires from on to other. Best. Mel.

Have been reading the importance of Smooth Track Power. In particular the suggestions from DCC Concepts. Of which i understand. The question is. Surely all manufacturers of Digital Control would supply a transformer that is Smooth. ? Look foward to comment. Merlin.

Many thanks for responding to my question. I can sell it with that info.

Does anyone know it this locomotive ever ran with a tender other than a Coal Rail type. Doesn't appear it did with the few photos I have found.

Thanks Crosland. If it does it's your fault. . I would add that there is a crossover wired correctly. Also there are two turnouts on each track also wired correctly.

I am just wondering where the recommendation came from regarding the spacing of droppers. I know its said that metal fishplates cant be guaranteed. On my layout there are two mainlines at 14 Ft long, but only one pair of droppers to each, been working fine for over 10 years. So am I lucky or what.

On eBay there is a new I think DCC Controller being sold by a Bill Cuthbert. 3 amp £45 or 5 amp £55 + £5.99 for the full app from google play. It would appear to be fully nmra compliant, easy to use. I have bought one and wondered if any one out there has also and would share there experience. When i get mine i will keep you updated. Regards.

Been having a look at this curve problem of mine. I am restricted in width 6ft, not length 16ft. Also this curve has to be laid on the Lifting Flap. The layout is OO. Up & Down Mains. Running pacifics A dummy lay down looked as though it might fit except it did not look right where the curve meets the track on and off the flap. Tonymays comment on transitional curves gave me an idea. I lifted the track on the approach, replaced with a new length and created the transition. ( left Side) Connected another length of track, wired it and ran a loco over it seemed to work, and it looked nice and smooth through the transition. The other side may be more difficult. I will be back.

That looks an idea I could use. My layout has its access down the centre, so there is only fresh air to pin anything to. So, ignoring the spiders (BIG) i will visit the shed for a piece of suitable wood.