Argos

The web site works for me, but if you are struggling PM me and I'll send you their email.

"Unmade Kit Appears Complete Please See Pictures As To What Is Included Missing instructions though " I think the buyer might have the same problem.

Railtech do custom lettering to order. You would need to order 20 lines but that would cover a few wagons:- https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=3641 I've done this specific wording for some wagons, as I work in 2mm it saves my sanity!

Hi SR71, There are various techniques: Use a very fine razor saw (e.g JLC https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=jlc+razor+saw&_sacat=2594&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15) Roll the tube against a sharp hobby knife. Use a cutting disc in a drill. Hope that helps.

Whatever John You seem to persist in thinking you have the right to tell people what to think. Getting the topic back on track, I can whole heartedly recommend Railtec products and service. Railtec produce the best transfers I've used and the service is excellent, most items land the day after ordering and this includes custom orders.

John, I stand by my comments, advertising your product on anther traders topic page is, in my opinion, plain rude especially in response to an enquiry about an existing product. And please don't tell me what to assume, I'm not a 5 year old. Thanks Angus Higgins

That's more than a bit cheeky, advertising your product in a competitor's topic! Just for the record I've used both your product and Railtec's. The Railtec transfers are a country mile ahead in terms of quality, ease of use and finish look.

Hi Jazz, There was a box section beam under the cab floor that ran underneath the back of the tanks, this contained a square section balance pipe between the tanks. One filler feels wrong, but the drawings I have are split section so only show the detail for one side. Because they sit down behind the side sheet they are not visible in photos.

Absolutely Nigel! Great idea.

I've been lurking on this thread since it started, I have been coming to the conclusion over recent months that I need to learn how to design my own etches. There are a couple of things putting me off though. I spend my working life on a computer (albeit driving spreadsheets) and enjoy the "hands on" aspect of the hobby as a welcome relief. I don't want to spend my hobby time back on the computer (the irony that I am doing just that at as I type this is not lost on me. ) I have used CAD packages, I did an AutoCAD course at work over a decade ago now and taught myself TurboCAD to create the drawings to get planning permission on our last house (also over a decade ago). The problem, as with most things, is that everyone has their own software recommendation, methods and preference so for a newbie, threads like this become very confusing with lots of conflicting advice (all well meaning). The worry is investing time and effort learning what turns out to be sub-optimal or short lived software and techniques. Picking up @Nick Mitchell point a series of tutorials would be very useful, it would create a cohort of new users who could support one another through the learning process and ultimately benefit the scale as more etches would become available for other modellers. I would be happy to support such an initiative financially if required, maybe Missenden Abbey style course would be appropriate?

I've just rechecked the reference photos I've used and the loop is adjacent to the brake cylinder. Phew!

Hi Graham, To be honest I'm not entirely certain I've got it correct. I built it based on photos just looking at the position of the loop in relation to the side with the double Vee hangers (one side only). This loop is on the left hand side when looking the that side, however, it would seem that some of the vans have the vac cylinder mounted on the left rather than the right (or the double Vee hanger on the opposite side). I had a couple of goes fitting the push rod as I kept convincing myself it should be the other way round. I am no expert on LNER vans and definitely out of my comfort zone here! Thanks Angus

Hi Graham, We'll have to agree to disagree on that one I'm afraid. These loops are very visible and included on R-T-R moulded chassis and most etched chassis I've come across albeit impressionistic in the main. I've no doubt these are slightly overscale, but to miss them off would leave the wagon underframe looking strangely bare. I'm glad the layout brings back memories of driving through Glen Ogle, the connection with place is one of the great things about modelling an actual location. Thanks Angus

Hi Jim, I've probably described it wrongly. I can't find any clear photos on the web. I've used photos from "The 4mm wagon - Part 2" which has some nice photos of the vans as reference for build. the part I am referring to is the vertical protector on the brake linkage seen extending form the middle of the solebar by the vac cylinder in this drawing. https://railsofsheffield.com/products/23456/parkside-dundas-pc56-oo-gauge-lner-12-wheelbase-fish-van-kit and highlighted on this close up of my model. In all the photos I've seen the protector is actually more to the left, more in line with the middle of the left hand door. It literally took seconds to make up from one of the spare brake levers so not a problem.

I've not posted in a while, basically because I haven't been doing much modelling through the summer. As the season turns to autumn I've built a couple of van kits, to get my eye in so to speak. By the early 60s most of the photos of freight trains show a high percentage of van traffic. The beauty is in the variety of pre and post nationalisation vans used. The LMS variety are particularly diverse. I've built up two of the association's LMS van kits, one is missing its roof as I was too enthusiastic in thinning the plastic so will have to make a new one. The first van is an rebuilt ex-LNER fish van, the body is available from N Brass, the chassis from Caley Jim's Buchanan Kits range (as advertised in the current edition of the association's magazine). As would be expected from Jim the chassis builds up nicely. The only missing seems to be the brake connector protector which is easily made up from one of the spare brake levers on the etch. The fish vans appear in photos of the line. I've another one on the bench which will be built up as the earlier version a few of which were still around in the 60s.

They're very nice Ian. How did you do the C shaped handrail? Are these etched? I ask as I am currently building some Irish carriages that need a similar shape handrail and have been puzzling about how to get them consistent. Even using a Jig I think I might struggle. Thanks Angus

Thanks Ken, I shall look forward to that build. I'll be sure not blink in case I miss it!

Which kit are you building Ken, there are several out there now? I have one on my to do list but haven't as yet decided which kit (and I've got a long to do list!). Thanks

Hi Geordie Exile, You also need to keep the end of the iron tinned. Sometimes if the temperature is too high you loose the tinning and it will not pick up solder as you have described. The tip will look dull. I also found soldering against wooden surfaces quickly dirtied the tip so now use a mineral fibre soldering board which helps no end. When tinned and working effectively the tip will look shiny. My method (probably a thousand other better ways of doing it!) is to keep a small piece of brass (about the size of a penny) beside the workbench, Clean the iron as best you can, put a good dollop of solder and flux on the brass and hold the iron onto it the brass. Eventually the solder should melt and tin the end of the iron in the process. Every time the iron loses its sheen, just apply the tip to the solder covering brass until the solder melts and the tip will re-tin. You may have to add more solder to the piece of brass every so often (every couple of months or so depending on usage). Hope that helps Angus

Hi Neil, Thanks, I'm glad you've got some enjoyment from the thread. I am currently focused on my 2mm scale modelling and this is likely to continue for the next couple of years as I have couple of layouts underway. Following the soaking that the boards got I've now scrapped all of them, even the original Three Shires Head board had to go as this was sagging between the framing leading to derailments. I still have the framework and most of the trackwork was salvageable so would be a quick job to relay. I may just rebuild this section, or might build another idea that I've kicking around for a while, time will tell. Angus

I'm really intrigued to see what this turns into Julia, I think you're keeping us in suspense on purpose!

To be honest Bill, if people are prepared to order the existing etch why go to the bother of updating? Having access to the etches makes more models available to those who are prepared to expend a bit of effort producing something so are a welcome resource. We usually have a backlog of kits and projects so happy to wait for etches to be produced or enough orders to be received to fill an etched sheet to make it economic for the etches to be produced. Whether that's worth your while is a different question. I seem to recall I was interested in some items that were on your lists, I just presumed the opportunity to purchase any had gone now.

Thanks for the recommendation Jim, To be honest, if I buy from a UK seller (to avoid the one and half month's wait for delivery from China and avoid the risk of VAT and import duty) then I would be paying about £6. The ones on the Amazon link are also available from UK Ebay sellers at less than £9 and have an LED light. Although I have two workbench lights I find myself occasionally using a head torch for additional illumination so the light will come in useful.

Hi Mike, thanks, my original question was around the magnification used as otherwise the debate falls into personal preference. Hi David, like you I've been wearing glasses since I was a kid (I was actually sent to Barnard Castle for my first eye test..........) initially for distance, but as my eyes have got older I need near vision correction. Also like you I do seem to spend a lot of time at my modelling table with my glasses shoved on top of my head as the varifocals focus is too close or too far. I do finish up in slight stoop at the work table though. If I'm reading the comments above right (thanks those that have taken the trouble to respond) a lower magnification is preferable (x1.5 or x2) so no need for a wide range of lenses or powerful loupes. I'm currently thinking a pair of these would fit the bill, they will fit over glasses and can flip up out the way whilst being reasonably priced. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B086K495T2/?coliid=I1LNGM028RZ5OU&colid=3R2ZSDJNPBRF1&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Up until now all my modelling has been done with the naked eye (well, via varifocal glasses, but you know what I mean.....). I am considering taking the plunge and investing in some magnification to assist in my modelling. There seems to be a wide range of solutions available from very expensive loupes to simple clip on magnifiers. I guess that choice just comes down to personal preference and/or depth of pocket. My question is what magnification do people use? Is it constant or do you switch between magnifications depending on the task? I notice some magnifiers come with a range of lenses, others can be bought with only one. I would guess that one quality lens would trump several cheaper ones for the same overall price if interchangeability was not any real benefit . Thanks Angus