ianb3174

I use a similar method but my disc sander is way too big so I use files and the edge of my workbench...like a freestyle artisan

It never entered my head to downsize the rail.

Does anyone know if it would be possible to widen the grooves in a crossing filing jig? I have one for Code 75 rail that would be useful for tracking building in S. Not being of an engineering background I have no idea how the grooves are cut into the block and even if it's possible to widen them. Making a batch for the society is probably not remotely cost effective but adapting an existing one? I have a freehand way of making them at present but a jig would be nice.

Yes. I didn't do myself any favours with the design. It was a pig to get right but despite looking rough it works as well as anything else I've built. Is only a fiddle yard after all (yes, I practice trackbuilding on the unseen bits too). As you might know from other threads of mine this whole thing may be rebuilt in S scale at a later stage. Waits for years to build stuff with jigs and then chooses to move to a scale where they don't exist yet.

This was my most recent attempt at one, in EM-SF. Started by fabricating all the crossing V's and assembling into common crossing assemblies using a society jig. Once they were in location relative to each other I added the stock rails etc.

Perhaps I should point out the order did arrive a few days after my post. The post was only meant as a question, not a criticism. It's good that specialist suppliers and societies exist to feed our habits, else we'd all be buying Peco 00 from box shifters and bemoaning the lack of realism in trackwork.

The overall look of a layout improves immeasurably when you take the time to model the track as well. This is my current project, a cameo layout that consists of a crossover on gentle curve. I could probably achieve similar with flexi and some Peco points but it still wouldn't look right. I am a stickler for accurate track though. In my biased opinion it may lead you into the dark side of finescale, as it did me. Making your own custom track and pointwork is a great therapeutic activity the same as making a kit, but you get a few chances to put mistakes right should you make one. Following the excellent advice on this forum and Templot Club will see you right.

I only used the Templot plan, a file and some pliers. A jig would be lovely but not necessary. To solder the V I use blutack to hold it while I align it and apply solder. A slightly (very) maverick approach but still 100% better than ready made track. On my other thread Drakelow (currently EM-SF) I used jigs for the turnouts and was happy with the consistency.

Looking a lot like a real crossover now.

I've used some of this on the crossings. I've also added my set bend to the stock rail now. Looks a lot better and I'm a lot happier.

I might actually take it up and put the bend in. Seeing as the Templot plan is clearly screaming at me to do it, and telling me exactly where.

Been busy with a myriad of other tasks recently so not much got done. Then the Gazette dropped through the door and I found a bit of momentum. I was watching a fancy setup with a milling tool to cut/shape turnout blades and realised it would take me years to acquire such a machine and get to use it proficiently so I broke out the trusty file and started shaping my own. Then I realised I hadn't put a set bend in the stock rail. I didn't want to remove the whole stock rail after just glueing it down so I've tried to craftily reprofile the blade. No one will notice (I hope) and fewer will be appalled by its omission (I'm sure). The next task is to design/make a robust link between said blade and the TOU pin. I have some ideas, one being a flat section of brass with a hole that sits over the pin then bends upwards 90 degrees and then 90 degrees flat so it sits under the rail. It would extend under the stock rail to prevent it from lifting. There is enough play in the plastic tie bar to alleviate any stresses in use (he hopes) and could be easily maintained without removing the turnout (he's confident). Enough gin soaked ramblings, compare and contrast with your own efforts and offer some critique. Tomorrow I shall be looking at my tax refund and asking why they send a cheque on a Saturday knowing full well that I can't get it in the bank until Monday now. I think another stores order is in 'order'.

The permanent way department. led by Arthur Bodgett and his assistant Josiah Scarper have been making the most of the good weather and beer bonus to crack on with the crossover. The inspector was pleased with their efforts. It's quite therapeutic this S Scale. I was musing about the need to make the majority of this from scratch and wasn't phased by it at all*. Loco's may cause me a bit of grief, not having done anything more technical than put a kit body on a RTR chassis. I've got the basic understanding of how to make a coach and buildings are the same in any scale. With 3D printing and laser cutting the tasks should be that much easier, or is that cheating? One question, would my crossover have lengthened wing rails to form the check rails? Or considering this isn't meant to be anything but a rural backwater siding would my version be the common practice? *ok, maybe a bit

Who needs all those fancy chairs anyway. The check rail chairs are cut down standards, alternating between the stock rail and the check rail. the check rail is held in place by 3 chairs over its 5 sleeper length whilst the stock has 2. Then half chairs complete the job. They seem to bond together well with the solvent. A similar process was used on the crossing though it was a bit fiddly to make in situ without jigs. Does this class as ‘experienced’?

A stern beating and thinly veiled threats have seen the track gang crack on tonight. Crossing half completed and lovely fine clearances.

This is what I plan to do in this turnout

My biggest youngster has a few 3D printers but I'd have to make the files for him to print, and know very little about making a suitable drawing. I have tried. Presume you are using S Scale Society chairs? Yes they are society chairs.

The track gang have a Sunday evening occupation and all they can manage is part of a common crossing. This one is machined to within the nearest couple of inches using the MK1 eyeball method. Prior to S scale I'd become accustomed to my Code 75 crossing filing jig, so this was back to my old ways, hacking chairs in half and a bit of bodge, then bury it in weeds and ballast before the rivets can be counted. It 'is' in line with the template, the angle makes the nose look a mile out. Thoughts and feedback welcomed

The foamboard I use is unbranded and was purchased from an online art supply store. It's nominally 5mm thick and coated both sides with a thin paper which has a satin finish. I glue my templot printouts to it using glue sticks. I use a shop brand glue stick that is harder that Pritt and covers more evenly. If left with a plan glued to one side the foamboard will slightly warp over time (weeks) but this is not significant (10-15mm over 1m) and can be rectified by gluing down to the baseboard. For track that I build which doesn't have an immediate home I glue paper to the reverse side and this cures the warping issue. In terms of ballasting I use (have used) diluted PVA. There is no appreciable ingress of the glue into the foam layer as far as I can tell. PVA glue dries on the surface over time and forms a very secure bond. I've built temporary structures for sizing etc and they are very robust

Progress has been slow due to inundation of work post lockdown. I have managed to lay some turnout timbers and have a play with version 15b of my TOU idea. Basically it's 3mm square rod inside 5mm square tube (forgive the metric), two slots in the top surface and brass wire inserted vertically which will be trimmed and form the basis of the cosmetic tiebar. That's the plan. Obviously they'll be trimmed for height and alignment once the rails are in place. The reason I've used thicker wire at this stage is because a previous version (in EM) suffered because the wire was too flimsy and didn't hold the switchblades tightly enough without bending out of shape. It's also installed at this point in the proceedings as it's nigh on impossible to add it to a turnout built in situ, like I always end up doing. I should know better but I often don't. Tomorrow may have the trackgang down for some more work...or they may just drink tea in the hut all day and sign off early. It is a Friday after all.

Today's efforts. Knocked together a CCT sized test chassis. 40 thou plastic sheet for floor, headstocks and solebars. Most likely not prototypically accurate but only took 15 mins to make. Scaled from the basic drawing I used the solebars came out at 12" deep. Yes, they are too far apart, I think they should be just wider than the buffer spacing (no info on the drawing). Usual techniques as outlined by others on this page. Scribed centrelines and W iron positions first (I haven't always worked that methodically) and quick blast with the solvent using Mk1 eyeball. 20ft wheelbase, Society W irons and wheels and salvaged 4mm bearings (must get some more). I might have a practice making a body for it when I have more time. I'm liking the overall size of S. Bigger, but small enough to be large but not huge One question; I have never soldered up my W irons in any scale, is it something that is recommended? Also the trackgang are being spoken to about the step in the rail at the joint. A fishplate will sort it

I'm sure I'll need help along the way. I'm impressed by the quality of the parts btw.

My first section of track is down, all 7" of it. Might have a go at making a test chassis tomorrow if I get time. In other scales I've usually knocked something together with the wheelbase of a CCT or similar, the rationale being that if a long wheelbase wagon can negotiate it then it's likely ok for everything else. Similarly I've also been wrong before.

I haven't given much thought to operation as yet. I tend to over complicate my plans with all sorts of loops and crossovers to aid shunting, then realise I've run out of space. Due to constraints I have little permanent space to host a layout. I can only design compact designs that could be stored vertically. One day I'll be able to spread out, I have the ideas ready.

I wasn't aware of that layout until just. Any similarity is purely unintentional. Initially I was trying to invoke a little bit of LLanymynech S&M in a later WD time.